@@annewatkis5824 honestly, I'm still not totally comfortable being on camera and I get a little nervous. So I probably use more filler words than usual! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Why were you using curved trimming tool instead of a straight edge clay scraper tool to check the base of the bowl during the foot trimming process? Wouldn't a straight edge tool vs a curved tool to measure the base/foot clearance let you curve the inner base to perfectly match the outer bowl shape?
@@joehamilton4568 Hi Joe! I don't think I have a satisfactory answer to your question. It sounds like what you're describing with the straight edge tool would work well! I just like the simple loop tool. Thanks for watching!
You can also purchase a matching underglaze to fill in any gaps that you might end up with. I use Speedball underglazes and they tend to match up pretty well
@@lauradavenport1645 thank you so much! This is so helpful, I will try all of this. I'm glad to know there is a workaround with the areas that do peel a bit. I've never used speedball glazes but I use their inks for projects in my classroom (I'm an art teacher) and have always liked the product. Excited to try it! Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
To get a good release it helps if the piece is still a little wet. If it’s bone dry already spritz it with water before applying the transfer. Peel them off a little bit at a time and I even peel one side making sure it’s completely transfered and then lay it back down and work from the opposite end so if it doesn’t transfer completely you can keep it lined up until you get it completely off. I also will leave all of the ones on my piece until I’m ready to start peeling to keep from messing them up and I work my way around the piece until I get to the other side. Hope that helps. I love using transfers to make my pieces special 🙂
@@DunoonVanRijn-dx1hr thanks for watching and commenting. This is an interesting comment! I have observed the silicon or rubber ribs being utilized more commonly. But I spend a lot of time around beginning/youth students so that might explain it! Are you a fellow metal rib lover??
Always god to go back to basics, there are so many little things that need to happen and when you do them all together it works a treat and leads to less oops moments later on, I've been doing a class once a week, since forever and every now and then things don't go to plan, last Thursday was my day to hit every bump in the road to project cylinder. So for the last couple of days I've watched videos like this to remind myself of all the parts that are important in their own way but pulling together, no pun intended, when they come together it works in your favour and the start follows through to the end a d a new cylinder shape is born. So your video, beautifully broken down and put back together on the journey upwards was a must watch for me, your show and tell format worked for me. Cant wait to get back to class to try again. Thankyou 🎉😊
Wow Denise, thank you for sharing! What a beautiful description of the process of throwing! I'm so glad the channel can be a part of your journey. Keep us updated on your progress. I would love to hear how your next class goes. Thanks for watching and for the kind words ❤️
As a beginner, I appreciate this video, because I’m so new I don’t know what I don’t know to ask about. I kept hearing the word “bisque” so came to Google to find it more, which led me to you, so thank you for looking out for us newbies!
Hi there! I made a video showing how the pieces turned out, but I changed the design on the mug so it looks very different from the original red cloud design. Here is the link! Thanks for watching! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R4rmVLDU1o0.htmlsi=Iz1yhclPUXGj-bwB
I love the realness of this tutorial… you are no afraid to let us know that you're struggling a little bit and yet still sharing your wonderful techniques. Also really appreciate that you let us know how long you've been throwing. As a new potter, it can be very intimidating to watch people just make perfect pots seemingly with ease and forget that they've been throwing for 10 15 20 years! You are a great teacher, and I appreciate your sharing your knowledge and beautiful craftmanship with us!
Hey Tanya! Thank you so much for the kind comment! Those "perfect" throwing tutorials have always bugged me and I don't think they're very helpful for anyone. I've been throwing since I was 20. I turn 40 this year so I have many years under my belt. And I still struggle sometimes! I struggle with hard clay, air bubbles, bumping things off center, etc. and all potters do, even with lots of experience. The trick I've learned is to work with the imperfections. Thanks again for being so supportive of the content. It's much appreciated. ❤️
Hello Hedie! Great question. I keep my pointer and middle finger tips at the same height as I move my hands up the walls. For the most part, the hands should be at even heights to pinch the clay in between the fingers and move the clay up and through the walls. Does this help? Keep potting!! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much, this was concise and to the point. And I really like the spray bottle tip because I use way too much water and that adjustment will really help me!
Hi! I have never tried using iron wash over underglaze but it would be interesting to experiment with that. Would you wipe the surface like I show here or just paint it on? What is your desired effect? I'm so interested to know what you're working on! Thanks for watching and for the kind comment!
@potteryplus Thanks for your kind response!I actually applied a few layers of underglaze on top of iron oxide. I'm working on small tiles and they are waiting to be bisque fired.Its an experiment for sure!
It’s good that the coloured glazes were stable, non-runny and the dots in full strength fared ok. I use watered down underglazes for colouring greenware or bisqued items for a non hazy look. I quite like the 2nd pot. These are my kind of colours!
Hi! I will experiment with underglazes when I do this process again. I think it might be quicker and require less coats than I used here. I'm so glad you like the colors! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Yes! You could use almost any glaze over an iron wash. It has different effects under different glazes but it is a very safe, stable material. It shouldn't cause any problems. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-R4rmVLDU1o0.htmlsi=owByqQLXzuAfnRLB You can see our results on ☝️this video. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching and Happy New Year!
Hello! You do not have to worry about printing your text in reverse. The way it looks when printed is exactly the same as it will look when applied to your piece! Thanks for watching!
Awesome can't wait to try this. I have the printer and waterslip decal paper for my printer, I just need to glaze some pieces and print my decals. Thanks for the video!
With all due respect… your explanation is riddled with big mistakes. Cones measure HEAT-WORK (heat over time). They do not measure or reflect temperature. They are absolutely needed even in modern kilns. Where as the controller panel will tell you top temperature, only a cone can reflect heat work. Ceramics need to be held at particular temperatures for a long enough period of time to allow the necessary chemical changes to occur. I hope you will do more research, learn this topic well, AND THEN do a new and accurate explanation.
Hey Therese! I understand your feedback. It sounds like you are quite a seasoned potter! My intention with this video is that it is an easy to understand introduction to cones for total beginners. I know it is not the most technical, but I thought about my first week in the pottery studio and what I could have realistically understood about cones at that time. This is what came to mind! Sorry you didn't like the video, win some lose some! But thanks for watching!
Hello from France!! thank you so much for this helpful video! I'm beginning throwing and I will be aware of the speed of my wheel and my hands as well 😌
Hi Elizabeth! Good question! Usually when applying glaze you want a generous amount for each layer, so painting with short strokes helps me not to pull the glaze across the surface into a thin layer. Also, the surface of the piece at this point is super absorbent, which means the glaze begins to dry as soon as it touches the surface. If I tried to pull the glaze around in long strokes with my brush it would get too dry. Does this help? Thanks for watching!
