Just another channel. Trying to make vidya’s on the stuff I want to see. DIY, How-To’s, Product Reviews, Personal views, Business views, and whatever else I think other like minded people might care to see.
My truck is a 2001 2500HD, LB7, 5 speed Allison. Replaced tranny, and rebuilt the rear axle ay about 275,000. Now has over 350,000. Heads and turbo have NEVER been off. First year, the only ones with EGR were California. Love it. My goal is half a million. About 17 mpg around town, a little under 21 highway. It is due for injectors. Maybe this winter in my off- season.
Funny that they go out just about the same time as the warranty, fuel pump control module on my 2018 first then a week later most of the def components failed at 60k miles. Dealer mechanics are just part swappers at the customers expense, they guess and replace, guess again and replace. if my 24 fails as fast as the 18 I'm going back to Dodge, I drove Dodges for 20 years and the only thing I ever had to do was replace front brake pads at 40k ...like clockwork.
@partTimePro : i just worked on the rear axle of my 2023 and took a look at the right wheel speed sensor, i think i found the source of the issue! I will have to make a video about it , the factory wireloom on the sensor is about 2 inches too short and they tried to cover it up with fabric. When i freed it up, and moved the wire water poored out of the wire loom. I let it drain, added loom and electric tape and put it all back together to see if it will be better in the rain.
@@Juan-tj1bf if you have metal in the system, it’s going to be in every part of the system, so you can always do what you wish but chances are there’s going to be more failures with a contaminated system
@@bretshook6263 no, the studs are backing out of the head. And I don’t think loctite would make much of a difference with the temps the manifold see. I also don’t want to end up with a stuck stud
My 2017 seems to be doing something this. More of a vibration/chattering noise than a squeal. Thought it was in the hydroboost and replaced it, but not it. Could you feel it in the accelerator and brake pedals or firewall when it happens? Mine is on acceleration at around 2k RPM and on the engine brake. Guess I will tear into this next.
@@PartTime_Pro thank you. I hate to tear into it without being sure, but I"m at a loss as to what else mine could be. I've already replaced the PS pump and hydroboost because it seems to be in that area. I also pulled the ABS fuses thinking it could be in that system. It is a very strange noise, and I can feel it in the pedals. Does it on the engine brake and acceleration at around 2K RPM. Pulling my hair out here...
@@bretshook6263 yeah that’s a hard one could be a ton of different different things that would cause a vibration in the floor. to be honest, I’m a pretty capable mechanic, but even sometimes I get out of my depth and take my truck to somebody who knows more than me for at least the diagnosis
@@codymullican1988 generally can go quite a while before it blows out exhaust gasket completely. If you’re only hearing it when coasting with exhaust brake and it’s pretty faint, I personally wouldn’t stress about driving it a few thousand miles, just don’t use the exhaust brake more than you have to. I’ve done much more with mine. But, if you hearing it and it’s very loud when accelerating that may be a more immediate problem.
good video. @100k I've done DEF tank and AC high pressure switch and connector. Front and now rear brakes, plenty of pad left, but heavy grooves on pad/rotors. No pitman or idler arm issues? I see that as a common complaint, but mines still solid.
If you have a lift, this is quicker with a cab lift. All those things you have to get clear to have space for removal aren't touched if cab is up. If the V band clamp is rusted like crazy and stuck, it will give you a half hour or more problem. Broken bolts can wreck your progress. And there is your back.... If no lift or truck is ambulance or has substantial over the cab equipment then this is the only way. Ford 6.7 have less to move but the V band clamp and the 90 degree exhaust outlet "Cobra Head" pipe is several minutes. The compressor gets wired to side to go up with cab as the condenser goes up and compressor going up means no evac and recharge for a/c. Cab lift looks bad but that is how it's built on assembly line.
Great video, I’m a rig welder and I’m looking for a truck upgrade it’s between a 2021 Chevy or a 2020 ford m dually I wouldn’t tow anything other than my welder and some tools,I’ve been seeing videos and from people saying chevys ain’t worth it but like you said I’m also a duramax only driver.Would you recommend it in my situation.just want something reliable
@@davi.d7832 I would recommend it. I spent plenty of time as a heavy equipment operator in the oilfield and on pipelines. Spent plenty of time around welders and a lot of guys had newer GMC’s. Weren’t much complaints. Just watch that idle time, any new truck with todays emissions equipment hates idling for extended periods
I’m contemplating getting a 2011 duramax with 100k miles, 1 owner. I don’t do any towing regularly but I always have at least 1000lbs of payload on my work truck at all times (lumber rack, tools, construction materials). Would it just be a money pit or a reliable rig?
@@CBeverything low miles and decently maintained I find it hard to believe it’d end up being a money pit if you leave it stock and take care of it. A simple delete wouldn’t hurt. Just don’t add power without supporting upgrades
Owned a 2022 from new, can confirm exhaust leak issues, I’ve also had metal in the fuel filter housing from day 1 but it has not produced any issues. I’m at 125K
I got same truck 220k doing hotshot heavy hauling up to 39k pounds and i haven’t had any issues just the sensor of the ac which is $20! But everything else is been great but i do my maintenance super regularly and transmission fluid change every 50k miles because i tow heavy and the transmission fluid that they come with it lose his additives with time of heavy use so i do it more regularly than a normal truck that they require it every 100k transmission fluid change
I just ordered my turbocharger and fuel rail I never did it before myself just get started it just brought it and your video is the only thing I’m learning on
My 2020 2500hd diesel has had 48 codes since new. I have a spreadsheet that I track. Left us stranded in several states. It now has 59k miles on it. Yup, just 59k miles and I am getting rid of it. You just never know when and where it is going to let you down. I have fought with Chevrolet over getting it fixed and have taken it to several dealerships. Either they can't fix it, or replaces a fuse with a bigger one, to just disconnecting the batteries and waiting a bit and connecting them back and saying, "Good luck". The list is long and wide of the problems. I even had to replace the trailer brake module myself at 27k miles because Chevrolet refused stating that, "that can't be the problem" or my favorite, "Even with a TSB, they told us not to change them out anymore". Dealerships techs can't seem to know how to grease the 9 fittings in the front. Some didn't know there were 9. I have paid out several 195 bucks for diagnostics only for them to state, "Well, we are just not sure what is wrong but we cleared the code, continue on your journey". I have concluded that Chevrolet truly wants to keep kicking this truck down the road till it is fully out of warranty. For those that keep losing your dash and console screens turning black while driving, the on-star support suggestion seems to be the trick. Just pull over, turn it off, open your driver's door, wait 20+ seconds, close it, start it and 9 out of 10 times your console will come back to life. I just ordered a new F350 with the 7.3L. I am done with Diesels and done with Chevrolet. I got about 35 more years on this earth, and I am truly done with Chevrolet. Those that are deleting your trucks, good luck - the mobile smog vans and trucks are getting deployed. That $50k price tag is going to sting for those that get caught.
@@christopherrosalesjr3964 Man, I just don't know on that one. Just know that there have been canceled registrations on vehicles even with modified exhausts. Just saying... I wish you the best on this stuff.
My 2023 (2500HD) valve body went out at 25K replaced under warranty. Since then I have this faint clunk i can feel at slow speed or coming to a stop off and on. No idea if its tranny and of course dealer cant replicate. AC seems to do odd things when trying to cool down in the Phoenix heat but nothing can compare to the early 2000 GM trucks really for AC performance. I find the 10 speed shifts fine myself but im not towing near as often/heavy. Got it used and put 15K on it in 10 months, like you Bowtie or bust.
My dad has a 2021 L5P with 223k. He's having issues with his transmission. When he puts it into drive, the transmission will make a horrible clunk. Do you happen to remember what kind of codes you were getting when you started having transmission issues? He can't decide if he should do the valve body or just put in a new transmission.
@@TylerJH13 just tranny solenoid codes. My advice, do the trans. When my valve body was replaced the tranny still went out about 60k later. But also mine has made clunks on occasion both before and after replacement. Make sure he’s using Ebrake when he parks and make sure tranny isn’t under pressure when shifting into drive.
@@PartTime_Pro Yes like turning on a water hose Every time I see this on other diesel engines, it's bad injectors. This truck also had a full tank of water in the fuel system.
@@jeremybrown7475 yea, that definitely seems excessive. You’ll have to look it up but there is a test you can do where you measure the amount fuel return and see if it’s within tolerance or not. There is a spec for the complete system and a test where you measure each injector individually.
@@PartTime_Pro I have looked into the test and its a vary small amout that is measured it showed 40 ml in 15 sec of cranking im Pretty sure. I have more than that
Not cheaper at any dealer. You must be cool and have an account with your dealer, bc everywhere ive called wants like 2.5x the amount online. (200)(1500 for the set)
I’m not sure where you’re located, but I have seen it firsthand and heard a bunch about dealers being all over the place on pricing. I’ve called two dealers for a serpentine belt that were 60 miles apart from each other and one was almost double the price of the other. But either way about half the time I find the dealer to be the same or slightly less for certain parts like brake pads filters, turbos, etc.. but if you’re looking into aftermarket injectors, I can tell you on my other truck that’s the same year and model as the one in this video, I replaced the entire fuel system and and I bought everything from XDP and it came with a alliant injectors and they seem to be performing pretty well. Just be cautious with aftermarket ones. There’s a lot of sketchy shops rebuilding them so just make sure you go with someone reputable.
@PartTime_Pro appreciate it. I just got new denso (8) injectors and hp4 pump($2200), bout to redo them all since i have 2 injector codes +injection timing code. Figure do them all and not worry bout it for awhile. (250k in the originals) my point is, i was quoted $2400 at a dealer in indiana to just do 1 injector. Obviously i laughed and said no. Ive not done this on the l5p but ive got all the tools and confidence ill get it done. I can do all 8 and the pump at that price they said for one injector if i just do it myself. Dealers are ridiculous. Most mechanics are ridiculous too. Hard to find good work. So i just do most of it myself. Got a good scan tool to program the injectors, so ill be fine
@@cham5275 yea that’s outrageous. I have a couple of videos up on doing that job. I replaced the whole fuel system on the other truck (also a 21’ l5p). Injectors, injection pump, rails, lines, fuel cooler, lift pump, gaskets, etc. bought the kit with everything from XDP. Came with the wrong fuel cooler but they reimbursed me for the proper when I bought from dealer ($100), and let me keep the wrong one. Also did a turbo shortly afterwards.
I've recently bought my first diesel a few months ago. 2019 GMC 6.6 Duramax. Dream truck. 200k miles when I got it, 1 previous owner. I don't blame on running it hard. So far this truck has been amazing. It's not deleted yet, sadly.
Well said. I buy Milwaukee and Ryobi cordless tools since im invested in the batteries but other than that its all far game and most of the time im going to harbor freight first
Thanks for the vid, my 06 Chevy LBZ going on 550,000 miles, just noticed my truck won’t go above 1,900 rpm’s (75mph) been driving me nuts your video helps a lot
We weren’t in a hurry by any means and had to pull away from it a few times. But doing everything we did the way we did it I’m sure if you where taking it seriously and trying to get it done fast it could be done in a day.
My 21 did this at about 20k miles. Dealer said they found 2 broken manifold bolts. Pulled manifolds extracted bolts, new gaskets. Back at 34k but worse. It does not affect driveability. My best description is it sounds like a hyper cricket. Finally going in Monday at 37k for 2nd round. This is covered for 100k under emissions warranty.
I have a 23' GMC Dually with the 6.6 gas. I've put 60k on it in a year with no issues to date. I tow 6 days a week, 12k trailer with 4k water payload in the bed. Anxious to see how this 6.6 holds up. I'll keep following your channel to help decide gas or diesel for my next work truck.
Awesome video man makes me worry about my 2023 but is what it is now. Can’t buy a good long lasting truck anymore they all have major issues even the Cummins isn’t solid anymore with the newer block castings. I’m a firm believer in good and lots of fuel additives for more lubricants in the fuel. Diesel these days is far too dry for these fuel pumps period. Cheers 🤟🏻
