My truck is a 2001 2500HD, LB7, 5 speed Allison. Replaced tranny, and rebuilt the rear axle ay about 275,000. Now has over 350,000. Heads and turbo have NEVER been off. First year, the only ones with EGR were California. Love it. My goal is half a million. About 17 mpg around town, a little under 21 highway. It is due for injectors. Maybe this winter in my off- season.
I've recently bought my first diesel a few months ago. 2019 GMC 6.6 Duramax. Dream truck. 200k miles when I got it, 1 previous owner. I don't blame on running it hard. So far this truck has been amazing. It's not deleted yet, sadly.
Awesome video man makes me worry about my 2023 but is what it is now. Can’t buy a good long lasting truck anymore they all have major issues even the Cummins isn’t solid anymore with the newer block castings. I’m a firm believer in good and lots of fuel additives for more lubricants in the fuel. Diesel these days is far too dry for these fuel pumps period. Cheers 🤟🏻
Have a 4 year old 2020 GMC 3500 with 40k miles (half of that towing a 12k lb 5th wheel) and have not had a single problem and has never been in the shop. Had a 2015 Chevy 2500 with over 100k miles before my 2020 and didn’t have a problem with that either. The two most reliable vehicles I’ve ever had. Leave them stock and perform routine maintenance, let the trans do its thing, and they should treat you well and last a long time.
@partTimePro : i just worked on the rear axle of my 2023 and took a look at the right wheel speed sensor, i think i found the source of the issue! I will have to make a video about it , the factory wireloom on the sensor is about 2 inches too short and they tried to cover it up with fabric. When i freed it up, and moved the wire water poored out of the wire loom. I let it drain, added loom and electric tape and put it all back together to see if it will be better in the rain.
Great information and much appreciated. Thank you. A word of advice...your transmission will live a much healthier life with regular service. Just drop the pan, replace the filter, clean the magnets and put 14 qts back in.
Funny that they go out just about the same time as the warranty, fuel pump control module on my 2018 first then a week later most of the def components failed at 60k miles. Dealer mechanics are just part swappers at the customers expense, they guess and replace, guess again and replace. if my 24 fails as fast as the 18 I'm going back to Dodge, I drove Dodges for 20 years and the only thing I ever had to do was replace front brake pads at 40k ...like clockwork.
I got same truck 220k doing hotshot heavy hauling up to 39k pounds and i haven’t had any issues just the sensor of the ac which is $20! But everything else is been great but i do my maintenance super regularly and transmission fluid change every 50k miles because i tow heavy and the transmission fluid that they come with it lose his additives with time of heavy use so i do it more regularly than a normal truck that they require it every 100k transmission fluid change
They all have their pros/cons. But eventually it seems like every truck becomes “the good ol’ trucks” but yes I still have my 2006 3/4ton Chevy lbz and to me it’s the best most reliable diesel gm ever put out. But I don’t necessarily hate the new ones either.
I have a 24 3500 it spent a while at dealer for def problem they replaced it all lol.. turned out it was a bad connection one of the pins was messed up. So far so good after the fix.4,500 miles now lol.. I'm also new to the diesel world so look forward to your videos
I have a 23' GMC Dually with the 6.6 gas. I've put 60k on it in a year with no issues to date. I tow 6 days a week, 12k trailer with 4k water payload in the bed. Anxious to see how this 6.6 holds up. I'll keep following your channel to help decide gas or diesel for my next work truck.
Our ram 4500 Cummins is at 120k runs loaded all day and has never been to the shop. Probably just jinxed myself, but still on original brakes thanks to the exhaust brake on the Cummins
Medium duty is a different game for sure. Also depending on the year you may have one of the lucky ones that RAM “turned the emissions off” that they just got busted for. And if you have one with that grid heater bolt, I’d upgrade that soon before it falls off at trashes a motor. I know a ton of guys who’ve had that issue. But hopefully your truck stays good to you and keeps up the good work!
I have a 2019 3500hd with the six speed Allison and it’s at the dealer now for power steering pump failure causing the hydro boost and lines to need replaced as well and the torque convertor went out. It has 46k miles on it.
Owned a 2022 from new, can confirm exhaust leak issues, I’ve also had metal in the fuel filter housing from day 1 but it has not produced any issues. I’m at 125K
Just found your channel outstanding video. Looking forward to watching more of them. Thanks for making the content because there’s definitely not a lot out there. I have a 22 L5P dually w 115k miles but not doing hotshot yet, looking for a small company to join and learn more about it
I’ve definitely been meaning to do a video about hotshot work itself, there is a lot that doesn’t get talked about online by some of the bigger channels.
I have a 22 2500 ltz. Its had every major component either replaced or repaired. Currently in the shop for transmission issues. Head replaced, infotainment module replaced, complete dpf system replaced, the same AC issue as you, 4 sets of batteries. Just hit 140k miles. Issue started at 12k miles and been down every 15k-20k. This truck has been in the shop half the time I’ve owned it. I completely regret ever switching from ford. I was in a time crunch for a truck and ford was 10-12 weeks out. Chevy dealer called and said they would be able to have one in 3 weeks. When time is money 3 weeks over 12 makes sense. Especially when its a brand new truck. Nope, didn’t make it 3 months before it was in for repairs. Down for 2.5 months due to parts shortage. Been like that pretty much every time. Definitely not my next choice in truck brand. Not to bring not the absolute horrible customer service experience with Chevy claims department. They are behind on their customer support compared with ford and dodge. All around bad experience with this Chevy.
That’s very surprising to hear. My experience as far as warranty work and down time is completely different. I’ve never had a truck in for more than two weeks. And with getting the parts I know that was an issue all makes were having. But seems like that has been mostly resolved. I did have to get the parts for my dealer a couple of times, because other dealers were holding parts hostage and refusing to sell to other dealers. It really does sound like you got a bum truck, or the shops working on your truck are completely incompetent. I will say I am very lucky to have a good dealer near me as well as a handful of knowledgeable friends. Sorry to hear about the sh*t show you’ve had to deal with. If you are near Colorado I would be glad to recommend some good shops in the state.
Great information, and like everyone else said we really appreciate the feedback. I would be curious to know your maintenance schedule. How often are you servicing the engine, what type of fluids and filters, etc. After replacing the injection pump, will you upgrade the fuel filtration on the truck, perhaps switching to VSE’s filter head?
Oil/filter changes every 5k-8k basically same for the fuel filters. Comes out to about once a month-once every 3 weeks. Filters are always just off the shelf brands, or ac-Delco. For oil I was using Delo but switched to Lucas, and always use Lucas oil stabilizer. As far as transmission services, none. At least the first time around. After replacement I let the dealer do trans,transfer case, etc every 30k. So there may be an argument to say that the tranny life could have been prolonged with better service, but in the manner they failed I don’t think it would have made much difference but time will tell with the new trans. As far as upgrades to the fuel system there isn’t much you can do with the lowside system without tuning. The VSE system does look good and doesn’t require tuning. I’ve considered it. I’m also very interested in their CCV upgrade as well. Especially since now I need to replace the turbo.
2021 GMC 2500 with 81K miles. Just had the AC pressure sensor and compressor replaced. Only other issue is the intermediate steering shaft is making the annoying clacking sound. Will be replacing it myself next week.
My 2024 is getting trans replacement at 9k miles. Started leaking at 3k. So. Oil change every 5k fuel filter and transmission change at 10k. Woooohoooooo. Go Chevy. 2 months in shop so far. Hasn't made me a penny yet
WHAAAT the rumble strip thing!1 we have a 2023 Drw 3500 & we get that too.. and its the right rear axle sensor.. Tried to get a dealer to look at it.. cost us a couple days & a diagnostic charge but no resolution.. I think theres a weak or loose ground... but that someone else has it, its noce to know we arnt crazy.
Just did a look see on my truck, and the wheel speed sensor is in an unfortunate space . You have to basically take the axle off the springs to get to the wheel speed sensor to do any testing or diagnostic. Absolute engineering drunken madness.
Just traded my 17 2500 in l5p drove in the shop never drove out!! Low oil pressure at @160k miles never had any issues until now my suggestion trade them in at 99k miles
I’ve never had that issue. But unfortunately in my industry I hit 100k miles in 10 months or less. The turn around on trading them in just doesn’t make financial sense.
My 2023 (2500HD) valve body went out at 25K replaced under warranty. Since then I have this faint clunk i can feel at slow speed or coming to a stop off and on. No idea if its tranny and of course dealer cant replicate. AC seems to do odd things when trying to cool down in the Phoenix heat but nothing can compare to the early 2000 GM trucks really for AC performance. I find the 10 speed shifts fine myself but im not towing near as often/heavy. Got it used and put 15K on it in 10 months, like you Bowtie or bust.
@anthonytaylor828 we’ll agree to disagree. I know full well how it works. I can tell you, you can start descending i70 at Eisenhower tunnel, loaded at 30mph- 3000rpm Exhaustbrake on. And in a matter of a minute or so you’ll be gaining with no slowing ability to slow except to smoke brakes (if needed) rpm maxed on the cluster and it won’t shift. This is not isolated to one truck. Both my 21’s do it. max braking RPM is only around 4800rpm. Exceed that and sure that’s where the engine over speed CEL and etc come on. No need to keep this going. My statements on the Exhaust brake weren’t a dig. They were an observation. One I’ve seen on 2 of the same trucks, and with 2 different drivers, towing heavy loads constantly in the mountains. Put it manual mode- keep the rpm’s in check descending it’s an ok system. Leave it if “D” and let it do its thing- could lead to some troubles. Maybe I’ll drop a commentary video on this specifically, since it’s a hot point and one I know a lot of people in my industry have noticed as well. It’s also not the best to try and explain fine details in the comment section. 👍🏻
My 2020 2500hd diesel has had 48 codes since new. I have a spreadsheet that I track. Left us stranded in several states. It now has 59k miles on it. Yup, just 59k miles and I am getting rid of it. You just never know when and where it is going to let you down. I have fought with Chevrolet over getting it fixed and have taken it to several dealerships. Either they can't fix it, or replaces a fuse with a bigger one, to just disconnecting the batteries and waiting a bit and connecting them back and saying, "Good luck". The list is long and wide of the problems. I even had to replace the trailer brake module myself at 27k miles because Chevrolet refused stating that, "that can't be the problem" or my favorite, "Even with a TSB, they told us not to change them out anymore". Dealerships techs can't seem to know how to grease the 9 fittings in the front. Some didn't know there were 9. I have paid out several 195 bucks for diagnostics only for them to state, "Well, we are just not sure what is wrong but we cleared the code, continue on your journey". I have concluded that Chevrolet truly wants to keep kicking this truck down the road till it is fully out of warranty. For those that keep losing your dash and console screens turning black while driving, the on-star support suggestion seems to be the trick. Just pull over, turn it off, open your driver's door, wait 20+ seconds, close it, start it and 9 out of 10 times your console will come back to life. I just ordered a new F350 with the 7.3L. I am done with Diesels and done with Chevrolet. I got about 35 more years on this earth, and I am truly done with Chevrolet. Those that are deleting your trucks, good luck - the mobile smog vans and trucks are getting deployed. That $50k price tag is going to sting for those that get caught.
@@christopherrosalesjr3964 Man, I just don't know on that one. Just know that there have been canceled registrations on vehicles even with modified exhausts. Just saying... I wish you the best on this stuff.
I worked the piss out of my 2022 2500 Duramax high country... They didn't lune the grease fittings... Started pinging in front end. Lubed them and had issues obviously... The fuel mileage stunk. I live in WV... Thats expected. Was happy with everything else. 45k miles of towing heavy and hard. Traded for a Cummins... DEF issue off the lot..
I have a 24 2500 LTZ and 10k miles about 6 months. Only real issue is a DRL LED strip for 1 headlight has a dead spot...like 3 dead LEDs. Figured it would a simple bulb replacement, but dealer says they must replace the whole headlight to fix. Apparently all these new LED headlights don't have any bulbs to replace and are just 1 unit. Replacing headlight involves removing a lot of the front end trim...like 5 hours labor and 2-3k part. I haven't gotten around to getting it fixed because I'm concerned they'll cause more problems touching it. I wish I (like originally planned) got an LT instead with normal halogen headlights...has got me thinking I don't want to keep this truck past warranty just as these headlights are a huge repair bill just waiting to happen. Can't pass state inspection with a broken headlight... I think some of the stuff you had problems with is revised in 24 (such as fuel system and efficiently). Not towing or hauling, I'll can get 24 MPG on a longer highway cruise. Brand new it was about 18.5 and improved after about 5k miles or 2 oil changes. It's not very inconsistent... sometimes I find the same trip is only 14MPG that was 20MPG a day prior. I think it's due to regen, however truck doesn't state when that happens. I've always been disappointed with towing MPG... pulling about 14k equipment trailer, I'm getting 7-10 MPG going 45-50 MPH on back country roads. Everything combined (mostly not-towing miles, including idling for warmup etc), I'm at 16 MPG. Not impressed because a gasser would be about 13 MPG, which is actually better considering regular fuel cost 30% less than diesel and all the other crap that goes with it. The truck has been very comfortable and solid cruising . The seat was too firm when it was new, but now it's fine. Quiet interior with no rattles and a nice sound system that works great with apple carplay. Huge amount of space inside with wide opening rear doors. The side mirrors are perfect and it's downgrade when in a regular car having to turn to look at blind spots. The brakes and gas isn't overall sensitive. Long wheelbase so the truck tracks really straight down the highway. Raised off the ground so they feel like you're flying instead of dragging your butt through weeds. ~600-700 empty cruising mile range when fuel topped off. So easy to soak up the miles on long highway trips (towing or not) and I think this is where the truck shines.
That is great info. I could be wrong but I believe the 24’ is still using the hp4 injection pump. I know they did some turbo and exhaust upgrades on the 24’ and up. I hear there is a lot less lag power wise now. And yep that fuel mileage is basically the same. Great empty horrible towing lol I was hoping with the exhaust upgrade the newer one would be getting better fuel mileage when towing. The interior is also a lot nicer! Hopefully the headlight is the worst of the issues you’ll have to deal with. I know quite a few people who don’t beat on their newer GM trucks quite as hard as I do and they are very happy with em’
I got a 21 model 2500HD with 18k, i only drive it to work and i live 8 miles from work. When diesel went from 2.30 a gallon to 4ish i stopped driving it as much. I'll break it in.....in about 8 years. Lol
If your only driving the truck 30 miles a day and that’s being generous that dpf system will destroy that engine crystallizing the def fluid inside the engines passage ways it’s not gonna regen enough atleast take it out on the highway once a week and drive the 🐕💩 out of it so you can try and flush all that junk out from not being able to warm up properly.
good video. @100k I've done DEF tank and AC high pressure switch and connector. Front and now rear brakes, plenty of pad left, but heavy grooves on pad/rotors. No pitman or idler arm issues? I see that as a common complaint, but mines still solid.
My 2020 DRW with the 8 foot bed has had the rumble strip issue. What's annoying is it de-rates the truck until you clear the codes for excessive wheel speed variation. At 60,000 miles the charge coupler from the turbo to the intercooler split, and fuel mileage went into the toilet and it set some SCR codes. No code for boost pressure deviation which I thought was odd. At 60k I also had the left rear u-bolts come loose and the spring pack come apart. The overload started rubbing the frame.
I would like links to the other hot shot guys who have Dodge and Ford trucks, I hope they keep good records like you and can tell us what they see. I am thinking of buying a 3500 Dodge HO with air bags for pulling equipment to job sites.
I’ve got no links to provide. I’m sure a search will turn up plenty. I just personally talk to people in my industry regularly, and keep my eye on the trends I see online in the hotshot groups.
I noticed a quart low once on my 2017 but has never happened again, very strange. The 10 speed was too small for the tq and hp, too much going on to keep everything cool, common sense there. 19 and above had a 3.42 gear ratio, not sure of all of them but that was their selling spew, 17 and 18 were 3.73, less load on the tranny, but not by much. I know this for sure, the local dealer is begging for my 17 and offering a straight across trade for a brand new duramax dually, mine is a midnight edition and sorry but I am keeping it, i dont want 10 speeds as i build transmissions and know what that does, more shift = more heat. I am surprised the MAP sensor wasnt mentioned or I didnt get to the end of the video, such an easy thing and not a bug deal, i actually put a wing bolt on it mine and got sensor cleaner for the oil change interval. Power, yes the L5p will smoke ford and dodge if you wish and by a long shot. Pulling it does the same so screw those videos showing otherwise. Longevity is the only thing I was concerned with but I can rebuild if necessary both trans and engine. The truck itself is decent, typical GM lightening shit up and the same old IFS front suspension but for my use its fine. One last thing to add, the new trucks are ugly, why go from simple to complex........
@JB-ej8zy , 17 thru 19 were 6 speeds with 3.73 and the 20 year went 10 speed with 3.42. I can say that I am happy I got the last of the 6 speeds, stronger and better mileage from what I have seen, 10 speed owners are claiming it gear hunts too often creating heat. I had to edit, was half asleep and got years mistaken, 2020 was the first 10L1000 Allison and 3 42 gearing.
That’s unfortunate. Hope you like the built one. I can’t justify that kind of expense. As far as not finding them, that’s weird. Haven’t had issues in my part of the country getting them.
Mine is the first design omef transmission, and I couldn't find any info about using the second design omkf transmission with it, I found 5 in the US and they were all spoken for
@@radabaughondub interesting. I feel like they’d be interchangeable with a software update at most. But who knows with how the manufacturers are these days. The don’t do us many favors.
So the shavings in the fuel filter is ok. The dealer told me it’s the lift pump in the fuel tank and it’s ok, there is a service bulletin out on it. And with the transmission, I use Amsoil on that with no problems.
I am a die hard chevy guy and that won’t change. And I’d absolutely still recommend Chevy over any others. Im not here to argue with you but I truly think your dealer is giving you bad information. I would pursue another opinion especially if you are still under warranty.
Do you use any fuel treatment what brand.Love your review I drive a Dodge Cummins had a 23 shop. The truck wouldn't shut off. You have to keep slamming into the park before shutoff. It burns a lot of DEF. But you're right, you have less problem with your Chevy then most people have with the Dodge and Ford finally have 3000 mi
I’ve always used power service (gray bottle) and occasionally hotshots secret EDT, or lucas cetane booster when I find on sale. I prefer the Lucas or power service. I also run Lucas injector cleaner maybe once a month. But I also average 10k miles a month.
There’s not a huge difference mechanically. But I’d be willing to bet the 6spd tranny would hold up slightly better,, but I’d imagine there would be the same fuel delivery issues. The other thing is what GM started rating the GCVWR on the newer trucks. The ‘21 is rated to 40,000lbs has some features that the older ones don’t. If I had my way I’d want a 06-07 Chevy 3500hd. Clean low miles. I have no doubt that that generation would outlast the new one, longevity wise.
I think your right on the 6 speed. I still have my 2001 duramax with original trans with 170,000 miles and Still towes 2 sxs to Colorado or a toy hauler. I bought a new cummins in 2022 for work and trans was replaced at 11k miles and is ticking again with 30k on it. Egr Cooler went out at 15k. I should have waited 6 months for the duramax in 2022.
@@sedgar11 my 06 Duramax has 350k original trans and engine has never been opened up. Only major things I’ve done was injectors, cp3 (didn’t need it), water pump, deleted, and will gladly tow anything I hook it up to. They don’t make them like they used to.
@@PartTime_Prolbz Duramax are just the ones bro. Only ones I'll own. I did enjoy my 19 l5p for 20k miles though. Ended up selling it for more than I paid during COVID. Still have lbz with 289k and it runs like a fuckin top.
Great video, I’m a rig welder and I’m looking for a truck upgrade it’s between a 2021 Chevy or a 2020 ford m dually I wouldn’t tow anything other than my welder and some tools,I’ve been seeing videos and from people saying chevys ain’t worth it but like you said I’m also a duramax only driver.Would you recommend it in my situation.just want something reliable
@@davi.d7832 I would recommend it. I spent plenty of time as a heavy equipment operator in the oilfield and on pipelines. Spent plenty of time around welders and a lot of guys had newer GMC’s. Weren’t much complaints. Just watch that idle time, any new truck with todays emissions equipment hates idling for extended periods
I’m contemplating getting a 2011 duramax with 100k miles, 1 owner. I don’t do any towing regularly but I always have at least 1000lbs of payload on my work truck at all times (lumber rack, tools, construction materials). Would it just be a money pit or a reliable rig?
@@CBeverything low miles and decently maintained I find it hard to believe it’d end up being a money pit if you leave it stock and take care of it. A simple delete wouldn’t hurt. Just don’t add power without supporting upgrades
Thanks for the video man a lot of great information. I recently purchased a 2024 duramax and I’m being blessed with the diesel knock. Did you experience any of these on your trucks ? If so how did you resolve ?
No can’t say I had much of an issue with fuel knocks, aside from when the injector pig tails failed and the injection pump made a clicking/knocking sound when it started to fail.
@@PartTime_Pro I will definitely call them tomorrow at least to start getting this stuff recorded. Hopefully they won’t have to keep the truck too long and it’s something simple. I appreciate your timely response man ! Looking forward to the next video !
My dad has a 2021 L5P with 223k. He's having issues with his transmission. When he puts it into drive, the transmission will make a horrible clunk. Do you happen to remember what kind of codes you were getting when you started having transmission issues? He can't decide if he should do the valve body or just put in a new transmission.
@@TylerJH13 just tranny solenoid codes. My advice, do the trans. When my valve body was replaced the tranny still went out about 60k later. But also mine has made clunks on occasion both before and after replacement. Make sure he’s using Ebrake when he parks and make sure tranny isn’t under pressure when shifting into drive.
Honestly one of the trucks never had a tranny service. That made it to almost 200k before failing. The other one was serviced before the tranny failure at maybe 70k and then again 70k after the replacement. The 10spd, you can’t even check the fluid- no dipstick anymore. Gotta either have the dealer check or pull plugs and check level yourself.
2017 L5p 155,000 km SRW. My emissions system failed twice, once under warranty and then the second time after warranty expired, the dealership deleted it the second time. Spent $15,000 last year in maintenance.
@@JauntJunkies I’ve always done my best to use good quality DEF fluid. 🤷🏼♂️. They may be referring to the emissions system as whole. I know the more you work them the better off the dpf/emissions system seem to be since they are constantly being cleaned out. Mine work everyday but also idle more than I’d like them to. But who knows. Maybe I’m the lucky one haha. Doubt it.
@@PartTime_Pro I tow a lot with mine too and use to have a 2015 powerstroke and neither gave me Def problems. Running them hot seems to be the ticket to staying away from Def issues, regardless of brand. Run my Deere hot and hard too and no issues with that one either.
If its purely personal, I'd buy an LBZ if you're not concerned about the "luxury" of a new truck. If i could do it over, i would have bought up all the stock, clean LBZ's i could find. Im not disappointed when comparing new to new, but hard to beat the simplicity and reliability of the older ones. @@so-cal3987
You mentioned something about losing half a gallon of oil between oil changes. Is there a common issue with oil loss between oil changes? The reason I asked I just got one of these 2019 with 28,000 miles and I noticed I lost oil between oil changes, and was curious if this is a known issue
It falls within GM “acceptable” range of oil consumption. In fact I think GM says like 2.5qts for every 100 gallons of diesel and per 1000 miles towing. Which I’m sure most would agree is excessive. Sometimes I appear to be using about 2-3qts between changes. Roughly 7k miles. So I’m far within GM “spec” but I believe the CCV system is responsible for a majority of it. I plan on doing some changes on that system here soon. I also upped the amount of stabilizer I use on my last oil change to see if that makes any difference
@@PartTime_Pro yeah I’m afraid they’re gonna say that falls in with specs but on this next oil change I’ll keep track of how much is actually used. What do you mean by CCV system?
@@Hawk-iy2iz the crank case ventilation system. Some call it a pcv. It’s a black plastic box on the driver side below the intercooler pipe. It’s driven off boost pressure. It has a non serviceable filter/element inside. The fumes are then pushed back into the intake. I think it pushes an excessive amount of oil through as well.
Never mind, crack case vent. Or might be better known as PCV. I don’t have a catch can on this truck, but if that much is lost in that system, one could say “Houston we have a problem”
334k and it does not even loose a pint in 8000 miles. I have a 2014 cp3 swapped deleted 2500hd. It towed a 36k trailer with ease. It has 11500 pound airbags and upgraded one ton springs.@PartTime_Pro
That’s unfortunate to hear. But these days doesn’t seem like it matters. I know guys who say the same thing about ford and dodge. Since probably 2008-2010 is no clear winner anymore, it’s all just about preference.
@@PartTime_Pro someone told me a saying what ever fits your ass better when i asked about a truck and it cant be more true now days they all there problems
@@z.rogers8979 that’s sound advice. I always tell people what ever your tools work best on or you’ve already invested in for, cuz your probably gonna need em’ now if we start talking about pre-def trucks. I’m a Chevy guy through and through. So why change now haha
I feel your pain on my 2020, mine is a lemon and Chevrolet won't stand behind their product. I am at 59,570 right now and 48 codes that I have experienced.
Oil about every 7k to 10k miles. I use Lucas oil stabilizer. Yes I always use fuel additives. (Lucas products and/or power service) Def usage varies and I don’t track it that much, but maybe 1 tank of def every 2-3 tanks of fuel towing
@@purtnearperkins manuals say a lot of things that don’t mean much in reality. Mostly to meet bare minimum requirements and that’s where they stop testing. There is a ton of legit research and a ton of personal experiences to the benefits of good fuel additives. But set that aside and use some simple logic. They state that these fuel systems are designed for today’s fuel minimum standards. How can you be sure everyone supplying fuel is at the same quality level. Besides that many fuel suppliers add their own concoction of additives to fuel. Some places purchase the cheapest lowest quality fuel they can find. Simply put sure it can perform on supplied fuel standards on paper, but the real world is much different.
Copy that. Real life experience sure helps. I’ll try some out. I only fill up at reputable fuel stations unless I’m forced to fill somewhere else. I just purchased a new 2024 3500 LTZ. 15k so far and still in honeymoon stage. Love the truck. Traded a new F350 for it because I like the Chevy so much better. Always had been a Ford guy. No longer.
I wouldn’t ever buy 2 new trucks for hotshot again. But that’s a different conversation. If I had my way I would build a truck specifically an 06-08 Chevy. If I wanted new, I would still buy a Chevy and put it through a diet plan day 1.
@@PartTime_Pro I'm of the same mindset. I don't think I'll ever buy new again. Everything is junk now. My F250 had transmissions issues off the lot. Also a 10speed. I also previously had a LBZ that was so freaking RELIABLE it was not even funny. I miss it. :(
@@OverlandandOutdoorPursuits my lbz has 350k and had a rough life. I started hot shotting with it at about 200K lol. It has some issues I should attend to soon, but it will still tow anything I hook up to. They’ll probably bury me in that truck lol It’s not going anywhere.
lol i don't know why... haven't had any issues. both are stock suspension, i run bilstein shocks. and i added airbags to one of the trucks at 200k miles. no complaints from me.
I ordered a brand new Ford F350 and took delivery earlier this year. Then drove a rented Chevy on a vacation and liked it much better. When I got home I traded the Ford for a new 2024 Chevy 3500. I feel way more confident towing with the Chevy than the Ford. The Chevy feels more stable and solid. After adding air bags it feels invincible. 12k miles so far and still in love.
Yes always. I prefer power service gray bottle or Lucas cetane booster. And Lucas cleaner once a month or so . But have also used hotshot secret quite a bit. It’s probably my least favorite
I just dont feel like i seen anything from it. but i do see and hear a small difference with the other 2. i have no real proof, just doesnt seem like it does anything to me@@kyleerickson3382
How heavy were you towing? I live in a 5th wheel. Travel alll the time. Weight is roughly 18-19k. I have Cummins deleted..but transmission is blown out. Due to the extra power. Looking at getting a chevy 3500 l5p
My empty truck&trailer weight is roughly 18k empty. And I am usually loading 8,000-15,000 onto it on any given day. I’ve had 18k on the trailer. But generally hooked up to 16k - 26k worth of trailer/cargo.
@@Jumper0209 the new ones 24+ are supposed to have a better turbo, and some other odds and ends that were upgraded. But yes overall I’d recommend it, especially a dually when towing a camper of that size.
Honestly one of the trucks never had a tranny service. That made it to almost 200k before failing. The other one was serviced before the tranny failure at maybe 70k and then again 70k after the replacement. The 10spd, you can’t even check the fluid- no dipstick anymore. Gotta either have the dealer check or pull plugs and check level yourself. But fair point, a more religious tranny service may help.
@@Lee-oq8nq yea that’s basically what GM recommends. But it’s pricy. And I’m not convinced it will make a huge difference. But ya never know. Can’t hurt to do it
Every duramax from the beginning to 2020 had a drain plug and a spin on filter making it cheap and easy to service. Now they want $600 to do it. Planned obsolescence.
@@PartTime_Prowe’ve had three l5p trucks fuel systems take a shit. All stemming from filter media coming apart and letting trash get to the pump. Filters were changed accordingly b4 the media failure
@@dommeister4004 Are you kidding?!? I just had to replace a CP3 pump in a 2007 LMM Duramax with just 141k miles on it.... about 300 miles after having the fuel filter changed. No sign of problem before that. Is this a real issue with the filters?
@@PartTime_Pro if you replace tank pump sometimes can get away with back flushing from engine lined, if you get the overfueling during deceleration fault, do all reset procedures all of them, drive it 3 times 10 miles if fault cones back will need set of injectors. Hp pump should be good. Keep in mind that all lines pins and bolts for injectors are one time use and will need to program the trim codes so take pictures of the ones you install.
@@wayneparker4922 thanks for advice. But not my first rodeo. I’ve already replaced the entire fuel system (see my other videos). As far as it not being the injection pump, still hard disagree. The issue wasn’t over fueling, it was failing to maintain rail pressure and proper high side fuel pressure under load. The injection pump also had a loud audible knock and ticking sound. All is good now. I’ve also spoke with the lead GM tech that worked at one of the best truck centers on my side of the state, he’s already replaced dozens of these hp4 pumps under warranty- not to mention all the other people who have spoke about it online.
@@Back_door_bandit_98 lol this is also true. Just under 58k for the first one and 67k for the cab/chassis if I recall correctly. And I bought during the truck shortage with not much negotiation power
Medium duty yes but in the 3500hd they are not all derated if any. The derated ones have L5D engine code. My cab & chassis has L5P engine code. Same as my standard 3500hd both my trucks both have the same hp and tq spec according to build sheets.
Sure and that bulletin just says to flush the system before replacing the fuel system. And if you continue to get debris then…. Continue diag. The pump continued to put metal debris through the system and had audible ticking, knocking, and could not maintain required rail pressure.
