Vehicle repairs, Desktop Laptop Cell Phone Repairs, Cisco CCNA, IT, Unboxing, Engines, Transmissions... let's say that this channel almost about everything little by little. Click like, and subscribe, Enjoy.
Very helpful. Especially breaking the timing cover. Made me realize they both must come out together. Removed two bottom timing cover screws and worked fine.
Hey. I just removed the engine splash plastic shield and took out the fan, then removed 2 top plastic clips that hold the rediator and condenser together. That's it. I then pull out the condenser from the bottom without interrupting the radiator. Took time but was successful. Thank you!
Thank you for the video, very helpful and informative. Stupid Manufacture, all this work to put a $1.00 hose, took me about an hour to fine the leak, I knew it wasnt the water pump because I replaced it with the timmimng belt 30 to 40,000 miles ago. Thanks for the video... Dziękuję
Might be a dumb question to ask, but any idea what that pipe is called mine seems to be rusted out. I looked up coolant pipe heater bypass and I’m not getting anything besides plastic ones. Mine seems to be metal.
Not a single person has tested a FTP cable with this tester to see if G light actually works (it doesn't on mine). It's so annoying! Nobody can do a proper complete review / test.
@@gavrilovas1 Can be any category. CAT6, CAT7, ... mine for example is CAT5e and I also found one old CAT5 FTP cable in my cable box the other day. The point is, it has to have that metal wire inside, along with the 8 regular wires, and of course it needs to be terminated with shielded (metal) RJ45 connectors at the ends. It turns out my NS-468 tester was fake. I opened it up and realized that it doesn't even have the G LED soldered onto the PCB. So even though it does have metal shields on the RJ45 ports, they don't do anything on my unit. Junk. Should be easy to test though. While testing a regular UTP cable, just use a short cable with alligator clips on both ends and clip or touch one onto one of the metal shield around a port on the main/master unit, and the other end onto the slave unit. Then G should light up after 8, if the tester actually supports this.
Your videos are the most PRECISE by far! Nothing is left out thank you. I have the same car and my radiator cracked in the same spot. Question: which brand of radiator did you use and do you still recomend it? Is full aluminum better than plastic? Thanks.
Can you help me on my is250 all lights work but only when you step on the brake. When the headlights are on the taillights are not on unless you press the brake everything is off the license plate lights also I check the tail lights fuse in passenger under the driver panel and it’s good what else should I check?
