Welcome to the KCDC Designs channel! Our goal is to showcase the incredible epoxy artistry created by Keith McGinnis, owner of KCDC Designs LLC, and provide tutorials for epoxy artisans worldwide.
From Keith: When you purchase your Stone Coat products using my affiliate link; www.stonecoatcountertops.com/?oid=4&affid=228 I may be compensated based upon your purchase, which shows your support for my channel, as well as helping offset the cost of my products used and the countless hours spent on putting these videos and tutorials together, in hopes of helping others. Thank you for your support, it means a GREAT deal to me!
Also please know that if I can ever be of help, please feel free to email me any time at Keith@KCDCDesigns.com
I would suggest watching some of Stone Coat Countertop's RU-vid videos for doing this on an interior floor, as I have not. The principal of putting down the design would be similar to my video. Thanks for your question, sorry I couldn't be of more help.
I have a studio for pouring epoxy, so that alone limits the dust. But I also apply Stone Coat's Ultimate Top Coat (UTC) to all customer countertops. Since I sand the epoxy surface with 220 grit sandpaper, that smooths out any dust particles, and since UTC is no longer tack after 2-4 hours, less dust gets in it. Thanks for your question, and I hope that helps. Keith
Hey Keith 👋🏼 I like the light fogging you did with a slight melding of the bondo spreader. Very natural looking. Thanks for another inspirational video. 👍🏼
Hi Kristi! The light fogging offers some really cool marbling, even with other colors as accents (next time I'll include that 🤦♂). Although, not so much with Speed Cure Pro because the veining doesn't have a chance to soften and meld, due to Speed Cure setting up quicker. You're welcome for the video and thanks for watching and supporting my channel!!!
Hi Keith, I remember hearing something about the white rustoleum paint having an effect on premature ambering. From personal experience I have seen this in shower panels that I poured 3 years ago, the areas with the white spray paint are significantly more amber than the areas with the white mica. Do you find that any of the other spray paints do this as well? Thank you for this awesome tutorial on veins. I definitely garnered some ideas.
Hey there, and thanks for your comment & question! We're thinking that after RustOleum's supply depleted after Covid, that they changed the propellant in their cans, as that's when we discovered the premature ambering. That's also when it was recommended to no longer use spray paints to tint the epoxy. For accent veins it's still fine, but not for tinting. It was mainly discovered in the white, but as for other light colors I'm not aware of any issues. Again, as long as the spray paint is not used for tinting, and only for accents/accent veins. Thanks again for watching and supporting my channel!!! Keith
Thank you! The torch is a Bernzomatic TS4000. It's important to be sure the torch has the holes at the bottom of the nozzle so it doesn't go out when it's inverted.
Can you do this edge on an existing counter? We are looking to do our first ever pour on our own kitchen we are Remodeling and I love this rock edge look! We have just a laminated counter currently but are going with the epoxy and just wondering how creative I can get. Thank you!
@@Ronda477 I haven't, but I would remove the laminate from the drop edge, then grind some and add enough bondo to add some character to create a subtle rock edge.
@@Ronda477 You're very welcome and thanks for your question. I would love to know how your project turns out, please keep me posted! Keith@kcdcdesigns.com
I have some Maple (I think they are maple) logs that I am going to get turned into slabs. This would be a fun project for them!! Love the color shift!!
Maple would be very cool!!! (the color shift is so crazy cool!!!) I would love to see what you create, and hear about your experience. Please keep me posted, and thanks for your comment!
Hey there, and sorry for the late reply! Absolutely! We do it all the time. Just be cautious when transporting as you won't be able to have a support piece on the back, so always try to keep it vertical when transporting and/or moving it around.
Thank you so much, Les!!! I just poured the Speed Cure on 2 different projects, trying different techniques and it's interesting how the design holds form and the metallics don't settle. Video coming soon. Thanks again for watching and your support!!
It's crazy how much difference that can make! So many colors we use are more transparent than we think, so fogging the surface can add a lot. Thanks for your comment!
Hi, and thanks for your question! Yes, they are! Alcohol "inks" are not, and can fade very quickly which is why the "alcohol dye" technique was developed. It's the same dyes (Alumilite Dye) and mica powders that we use in creating epoxy countertops.
Hey there, I used Pearl Gold (Stardust Micas), Stardust Pearl (Stardust Micas) Interference Oyster Satin (Bling It), clear with Diamond and Gold Dust (with a tinge of white dye). Accents using Blue Earth (PolyColor Mica) and Alumilite Black dye.
Heyo Keith! Nice video thanks for posting, it really is easy to take your undercolors for granted you definitely showed that. I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to put an ogee edge on a 1.5” mdf countertop, curious how you’d approach it. Before you say buy a router bit that’s one huge router bit and finding a suitable ogee profile for a countertop is its own challenge. I’ve found these diamond coated ogee bits used for profiling concrete and stone and may go that route but curious if you’ve ever tried an ogee edge on mdf countertops. ❤
Hey there! You're welcome and thanks! Regarding the ogee edge, we only offer our customers the rock edge and smooth edge, so I'm not going to be of much help. Although, my first thought was the router bit, lol. Also keep in mind the top of the ogee profile still needs to be rounded just enough for the epoxy to want to flow over. Thanks for commenting!
Hi Keith , the aluminium and white metallics in this project are they mica powders or paste from just resin ? In the process of building my new worktops , have been doing small projects for 2 years .maybe going to do this as a job full time , want to get into doing floors also. I will use stonecoat for my new worktops , not used it before . but looking forward to it . thank you in advance for any information
Hey Keith, The Aluminum (I mistakenly said titanium in the video) is Just Resin paste and the White Metallic is a mica powder from PolyColor (i.e., Stone Coat). Be careful of the Aluminum because it can really take over quickly! I think you'll really like Stone Coat for it's workability and open time. It's all I've used exclusively for the past 4 years (I started with a different brand). If you do order from Stone Coat, below is a link and coupon code for at least 10% off your order. I'm now a Stone Coat affiliate so that little bit of commission helps offset my cost of doing videos. Thanks for your comment and support and please feel free to reach out if I can ever be of help! Affiliate link: www.stonecoatcountertops.com/?oid=4&affid=228 Coupon Code is: KCDC
Yes, especially if you're using Amazing Quick Coat since it provides UV protection. And someo of the faux painting is to match up veins or other colors in the top. When using regular Quick Coat for on-site seams, I like to faux paint over the epoxy to hide the yellowing which would likely occur. So, it's Amazing Quick coat for the win, when doing onsite seams (dyed and/or colored to match the colors on the countertop.
Wow I’ve struggled through orange peel on the matte, but my friend ended up loving it . Revisited a lot of videos on the ultimate topcoat but I do believe the straining may be the key to future attempts!!
Hey there, and I'm glad your friend loved it! There's a fine line between too much product applied (orange peel) and not enough which can result in the roller marks showing after it dries. Personally I'd rather have a bit of orange peel, which actually increases the scratch resistance. I've noticed with the newest batches of the matte, that it's much thicker and not as easy to apply it orange peel free. The previous formula was thinner and really laid out flat. Do I add more water to make this new batch thinner? I hesitate. Regarding the straining, that's what catches those little white nuggets that remain on the surface. They dry clear, but still leave a bump in the finish. Thanks for your comment, and feel free to reach out if I can be of any help.
Help!!! I’ve watched all your videos and today I did it! But disaster!!! My UTC Matt started getting hard/stickey ??? In just the first 10 feet of a 60 s/f job. I might have mixed too long???? Any advice, todays Saturday and I can’t call Stone Coat 😢
Oh dang, sorry to hear that! There could be a lot going on here to unpack. Drop me an email at keith@kcdcdesigns.com with your phone number and I'd be happy to visit with you and we'll see if we can decipher what happened.
HI Cheryl, and that's a great question! I'm only guessing here, but it's likely Alumilite Ocean Blue or Alumilite Translucent Blue (and either 1, 2 or 3 drops per 1 oz of 91% isopropyl alcohol).. Before getting Clara's Alcohol Dye Mixing Guide I was just creating my own colors using Alumilite Dyes and some Resin Arte mica powders and really didn't take notes. Sorry I couldn't be more specific.
FYI. You likely know that the book referenced by Clara and website is no longer available. I went there to purchase, but couldn’t. How do we find out how to make the alcohol dyes?
Thank you for pointing that out, and I have since changed the link. Clara's E-Book is now available on the RK3 Designs website. You can find it here: rk3designs.com/clara-lawrence-art/
@@kcdcdesigns Wow that was a prompt reply, took me by surprise due to the time difference between our country's, so thank you so much, I've been cramming video's the last couple of days trying to understand the issues we are having with the UTC and have to say that you are by far the best with your detail description and communication, so keep up the great work--from New Zealand thank you👍
