I appreciate that, thank you! Have you already been working with epoxy, and what types of projects do you like working on? Thanks again for your comment!
Hi Jessica and the injury has certainly slowed things down, especially trying to edit with one hand, lol. The should is healing, it's just a VERY slow process, and thank you!
Merry Christmas, Keith!! I love the basic marble without the black and gold (that's really pretty with it, also) but the plain marbled look is what I am trying for with a small project for my SIL....
Thank you! And yes, just the marbling could easily been a finish on its own! I just finished another one that I marbled instead of striated, and it too looks really pretty! Thanks again for your comments!
Thanks, Chris! In the past I've used them all as just accents, this is just the first time I've used that much, as well as manipulating it. But because they remain on the surface, they also scratch easily, with scratches that will still appear through a flood coat. Have you discovered the same? My solution to this is, is that if there's too much to sand around, I will apply the flood coat during the "open window", so the surface doesn't have to be sanded first. Thanks for you comment!
Thank you, and great question! When using the Bright Metallic or Fast Dry spray paints, or other colorants that remain on the surface, I will apply the clear/flood coat during the "open window" when the epoxy is at the stage of "blue tape tacky". And for me, in a controlled environment of 72° - 74°, it's somewhere between 9-11 hours. That's a great question and thanks for asking! Because you are correct that you will scratch the colorants which will end up showing through the clear coat (or remove them as you mentioned). And in this case, with that much gold, it's really important to remember that. If there's only a few accents with those colors, I will sand around them.
Thank you! The gold spray paint I sprayed into a paper cup so I could pour it onto the surface, instead of spraying it. Did that answer your question? Thanks again!
Thank you! None of my white/whiteish countertops have "yellowed" over the past 3 /12 years. Yes, they've likely ambered some, but I've not had a customer call-back from "yellowing". It's crucial during the prep, to be sure you're allowing any white paint to off-gas at least 24 hours (4 hours with Stone Coat Undercoat Paint) and using only white dyes, and pigments that are specifically designed to be used with epoxy. Also, being careful not to overheat the surface, especially when torching or heating, to not overheat/burn the white dyes and/or other pigments. I still have white sample boards from 2020 that have not yellowed. If I put them beside a freshly poured (and similar) white finish, there may be a slight color change from ambering, but not "yellow" as some have shown pics of. Also, being sure you're using a brand of epoxy known for it's UV resistance, such as Stone Coat's Art Coat epoxy.
Hello keith, unrelated question to this video. When using stone coat UTC gloss should it have a "orange peal" look to it or should it be smooth like an epoxy finish? Thanks for the video on UTC it helped alot!
Hi Elizabeth! Yes, the UTC Gloss does have an unavoidable orange peel/texture that you can typically see, but not feel. We've not been able to find a gloss topcoat with the smooth shiny finish like a flood coat will have.
I would suggest watching some of Stone Coat Countertop's RU-vid videos for doing this on an interior floor, as I have not. The principal of putting down the design would be similar to my video. Thanks for your question, sorry I couldn't be of more help.
@@chuckfreed282 You're welcome! Here's the colors I used, and all but the spray paint can be purchased through RK3 Designs and Artist Till Death: White Pearl - Just Resin paste Titanium White - Just Resin paste Black Passion - Colour Passion paste White Metallic mica powder - PolyColor The gold is RustOleum metallic gold spray paint