Thank you for these! Preparing for my check ride. Like you said in the magneto video, it’s hard to understand how something works if it’s something you don’t really see. Thank you for the visuals!
I failed my PPL check ride because I forgot how the gyroscopic instruments work.. and realizing I could’ve saved 500 dollars by watching a 5 min video is crazy work. 😂
*Question* Hopefully someone see’s this and has an answer. A couple months ago I went to the local airport and rented their PA28. After all my initial checks and as I began the startup checklist, I went to prime, and on the second pull, the nut holding the primer in came unscrewed and the internal primer assembly came fully out of the airplane, along with a decent amount of fuel. I did not feel safe flying that day after that and so I called it a day and told the aircraft mechanics about it. They were not concerned at all and said they would just tighten the nut for me. Since the last annual or systems check by the mechanics, the primer nut had slowly become unscrewed and loose. My question is, if I was mid flight and some normal bumpy air were to have knocked that nut off the last thread that it was hanging onto, if the primer assembly fell out completely mid flight, would the engine have died?
That was one tip the turned my flying arround, I was struggling so much at first. My old CFI got me so traumatized about keeping my altitude in the turns that I started chasing the needle all the time. My new CFI just told me to forget about it, and put a piece of paper in front of the climb indicator and got me to do turns without looking and out of nowhere I kept my altitude bang on and it was a scorching hot day.
I get a little carried away with it. I inspect the pleats, then wash them in a bath of varsol, agitating for several minutes, then I take a neodium magnet from an ID badge on the end of forceps and stir up the varsol, making sure to slide the magnets along all the surfaces, for several minutes. I end up with a light coating of ferrous mud and maybe a few ferrous specks. The dirty Varsol I pour into a black plastic tray, leave it to settle, then drain it carefully and look at what's left in the bottom like panning for gold, which shows up as mostly very fine non-ferrous specks easy to see against the black. Then I breathe another 50 hour sigh of relief.
Hello. How can this Prime device control the correct amount of fuel sent, we do know that a slight excess of fuel in the chambers can easily hinder the starting of an engine?
I have a magneto plane.....it s written at the back in the oval Black bakelit (5,6..10)... cm..NILMOR...It s about 2 Kg.....my GD FATHER..used to say (it s s from the first WAR...1915.. )... you have to turn a manette to obtain a big spark..can you confirme here ON YOU TUBE..thank
I'm not a pilot, but I am a mechanic for cars with 20 years experience, yet have been fascinated with aircraft (but due to my poor eyesight from a distance). Excuse me for saying but that seems to not only be a very small air filter, but most of the air, or what is "heated air" coming into the engine from side tubes isn't filtered at all?? Did I see that correctly? Maybe aircraft engines are far more efficient than car engines? Guess I need to learn more, but that doesn't seem prudent at all. And using carburetors instead of fuel injection?
3 weeks ago while in cruise at 3500 ft in my C150 I started to lose the rpm ever so gradually. Unfortunately, I didn't pick up on it right away so I declared emergency. Nearest airport was 14 nm away. So, I was setting up to land it in a cornfield. After having full throttle in and only getting 2100 rpm I started getting the vibration from the engine. At 2500 ft I finally remembered my ppl ground school stuff. Rough running engine and loss of rpm. It's carb ice you idiot. Turned the carb heat on and within 15 secs all was well. Humidity was 65% and OAT was 2C.
I realize this video was posted a long time ago - but I’ve got to say you looked very smooth! I trust you have your private or commercial today and continue to enjoy GA flying.
very similar, but the only difference is a distributor has to have power form a car battery to create a spark, the magneto creates its own spark by using magnets.
I only worked in aviation a short time, back in 1970. After I got my A & P license, I worked in other parts of aviation, getting little experience. When you graduate from aviation school, They tell you to go out and learn to be a mechanic.I think a lot of people don’t know that there are 2 plugs per cylinder. I’ve learned more from watching these video’s than 2 years of aviation school. We never had a mixture control on the carburetor to kill the engine. I had little magneto training. They need to know that the magneto has a permanent magnet that produces spark in the primary and there is a set of points that shorts out the spark to ground, so the secondary doesn’t fire. I used to prop the 150’s and 172’s all the time until I took the starters to an automotive shop, replaced parts form an automotive starter had the same guts.
Generally speaking, for a C152 or C172 apply carb heat (and leave on) anytime you reduce engine speed to 2,000 RPM or lower OR when your RPM’s drop below the green arc on your tachometer. This is generally speaking. For specific information on this, refer to your Pilot Operating Handbook (POH) for the year, make and model aircraft you are flying. Prevention (of carb ice) is the best cure. Staying “ahead” of your airplane is a best practice. CAVU everyone!
Nice job..question on my 172K the carb heat flaper has alot of wiggle room at the box is that normal? I took off the filter and can see it moving when pulled in cockpit. While doing run up I barely get a drop in rpm but at high power settings in flight I get at least 150 or so so I know its working..
Basic concept and good for pilots. But there's plenty of magic in that component to discover how the charge is built up and discharged. Like you said its done by itself and its quite interesting.
