Hey everyone: dont weld the supports together or you will competely destroy your table. Ask me how I know. I figured it would help lick it together but it actually just warps it completely. I cannot be the first person to do this so it sure would have been nice to have a warning... there goes $350 down the drain. A folding table would be flatter
There is no way that table is flat with this method. If they could build slats (unassembled) that strong and precise, they would be working for NASA...
I bought a 3x4 fab block and no matter what I try the table always has a twist to it after I get it all clamped together. My floor isn’t level and I’m out of ideas, any suggestions?
I found the problem.. there isn’t a single “precision cut” on my table top at all.. the slots are cut all squiggly, and every single hole (round and slotted) has a small line left from the beginning and end of the cut, not only that but the ones at the end of the slots are curved inward as well. I haven’t really had time to mess with it because of the holidays and everything so it looks like I’m stuck with it now. I had faith in you guys because so many people talk good about your tables too.. lesson learned I guess
Great video for the fab block welding table. What do you suggest for replacing the all thread on the mini block table… since you can’t there is only 2 holes in the sides versus 3 holes?
I just received my certiflat 2x4 top. The support slats are visibly bowed, I don't see how this can turn out to be flat. And reaching out to the manufacturer has been no help so far. No response. I'm pretty disappointed. I also had to file a large burr off one of the tabs just to get it to seat. Repackaging will be a pain but I'm probably going to send it back and go another route.
CHECK YOUR TABLE FOR DAMAGE BEFORE YOU ASSEMBLE. I’d bet money the long beams were bowed upwards in the middle. I had the same issue. Twice. It’s because they pack them loose assembles with two 2x4’s - one underneath each short side as far out as possible. So when they are stacked on on top of the other and lifted with a forklift, the one on the bottom is unsupported on the long side and bows upward bending as it tries to resist bending under the weight of the tables stacked above it. There would be no problem at all if they packed them with 2x4s around the entire perimeter of the bottom of the table so the bottom one wouldn’t have to bow upward. I contacted the manufacturer and let them know. They treated me like I didn’t know what I was talking about. I challenged them to s stack 10 tables up and lift them with a forklift so they could watch the damage occur. No response. I thought they’d want to know. They didn’t. Two extra 2x4s is apparently too much to spend to make sure ALL of their customers get a table that’s capable of being flat without work. On the second table (last one available at a good price) I put the beams on a straight edge and spent a couple of hours with a straight- edge and feeler gauges and bent them straight. Long story short BUYER BEWARE.
@Mofm-tl8ov they offered to SELL me new parts to replace the bent slats. The table is a overpriced work bench. I'll never do business with them again, they don't stand behind their product.
Just welded my table up this past weekend, thanks to your video & advise. So glad I watched this video 1st as it surely saved me some headache & concern. I was really happy with the way my table turned out and its level in every way. Having to pick up a fresh argon tank today as I ran out about the time I finished the table up. Hope to weld up the leg kit together tonight. Thanks again for your video & very informative way of teaching.
The blocks look really cool, but it's not my style. I do have two tables from the cerfiflat company where the posts slid over a cross-section of the flat bars. It's very sturdy with just a few 1 inch tacks.
HA. I see now that you guys cheated out on the bolts per design. I bought my fab block and leg kit a few years ago and just now got to assembling it and you only include 2 bolts per plate not 3 which would anchor 3 holes as the “4th” hole is the leg. Cheap cheap cheap but not really. Now either I weld it or go buy my own “missing” bolts that should go in the corner. I mean your intent was to bolt the plate to the block so why cheap me out on 4 bolts, nuts and washers. Pisses me off. Not sure if I’ll buy any more of your accessories for this expensive investment. Good thing I’m only a hobbyist. Also good thing your caster bolt quantity is correct.
I found when I was welding mine today that you need to clean off the pipe to weld it strong. It is covered in oil and scale, so if you're going to tig it I recommend polishing it with a flap disk and using acetone prior to tig welding. Mig is fine too, almost all of the other videos the tables are mig welded. I did mine with Flux Core, to say the least it burns through rust but it had a hard time with the pipe even when I cleaned the crap out of it.
I ordered the 3x4 Pro table and the lack of instructions and support to fix errors has been driving me crazy. Already have about 20+ hours trying to fix the table, you need to have WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS for setup, clamping, and welding.
If a manufacturer refuses to provide even simple instructions with some drawings, then at the least, the need to provide their OWN videos, on their site, as to how these should be assembled as well as problems and how to rectify them, is required. I’m amazed at how most table manufacturers don’t provide any help, and rely on third parties, such are we see here. I problem is that having watched a number of videos, I’m noticed that they don’t all agree, or are even correct from an engineering perspective. For example, with this table, the ribs have deep slots which weaken them considerably. They may not draw the table down as the top is considerably stronger than each rib. You draw it down, and the rib could bent rather than the top being moved. Then you think it’s flat, but it’s not. It’s complex. But you might not be able to tell as certain twists are very difficult to measure.
@@ozonepat Hey mate. I had the table mounted atop a number of substantial I-beams that I had rigged up level and secured. I then followed the manufacturer video instructions (and reviewed all other videos I could find) using the U-bolts, etc. The warp is a centre upward crown - the centre raised as a dome and the four corners dropped down. It happened during the weld process but I only became aware of it once I unclamped it from my I-beam jig and flipped it over. I tried to relieve some of the welds and even added a few extra in an attempt to draw down the crown but to no avail. I did this whilst communicating with the company. If I was doing it over I would go for a table with a much thicker top. The 5mm plate is just too thin in my opinion. I would also avoid this company. They promised me a replacement on two occasions and then reneged. I am happy for all the other guys out there that have had success but for me, this company and their products are scum.
@@michaelking7495 Hmm. OK thanks, sorry that happened to you! I have two 24x36 Pro's and have not seen that issue with either (so far) Fingers crossed it stays that way
Just when i thought I had my mind made up... I appreciate your comment. The next step up seems to double the price. My problem is that as a novice/student welder, will the cost be worth it.
I’ve found that few people can assemble these tables and meet the already somewhat middle of the road flatness specs. A lot of people may not even realize it’s not flat until they use it. One guy didn’t even use a builder’s level, he used a one inch square piece of cold rolled tubing, which I guarantee is NOT straight. So the side he had down would determine the flatness as it will change with the side. They do have thicker tables, 1/4”, 1/2” and without looking at their site, possibly 5/8”. They’re more expensive. All can be flatter in the longer term, but really, by the time you spend that money, just buy a better table such as a Sigmund. The extra money is well worth it if you’re welding seriously.
Everything will warp, if you use enough heat, even a 1in surface. These tables are not meant for heavy duty construction or extremely hot processes, it should be obvious. For the right application, I think they are great value.
Ordered my table and legs yesterday. I did the math, and having the top holes laser/water jet cut and buying all the steel, I can't build it for what it cost me from Tab and Slot. But one comment, simply put a bolt through the nut and caster tab to locate as you weld. Much better than using a C-clamp and eyeballing it. Fantastic product. Can't wait until it shows up.
After welding the tabs on the top of the table, I am guessing you have to carefully grind down all of the spots where the weld bead is sticking out above the flattened table?
@Steve Anderson In another video, the demonstrator recommended using a flat file run across the surface to minimize any chance of creating low spots from using a grinder. Tedious but it should work.
Typically you will use 1 amp for every 0.001" thickness up to about 1/8th inch thick and then taper it off from there as it gets thicker or you switch to making multiple passes.
I am in the process of welding one of these tables together. I noticed that in this video you are using one of these tables WITHOUT the tabs being welded to the top surface. Was it filet welded underneath with the ribs or some other assembly technique? Please advise thank you.
Good morning friend, how are you? I live in Brazil and am trying to make a table like this in laser cutting, but after welding it was not completely flat. If so, would you have a copy of the assembly manual in .pdf or something? Thank you!
Good morning friend, how are you? I live in Brazil and am trying to make a table like this in laser cutting, but after welding it was not completely flat. If so, would you have a copy of the assembly manual in .pdf or something? Thank you!
