I got the same car, but 07 mine doesn't have heated seats. Does that mean that the car doesn't have the seat heater installed or do I just need to get the part and change it out?
Did you loosen the cam tensioners at all before doing this? Very strange, but on my 99 996 I can't get TDC to line up with the IMS sprocket without there being relief holes where the set screws are supposed to push...
Hey Joe, great video of the IMS bearing replacement. Im a DIY guy, and im not scared to pull a motor out of anything. I own a 07 911 S with 101k miles, and everything seems to be fine, but everyone is so scared about the IMS problems they had with them. Thanks for the great video.
Best video on this I've seen so far. T-Y. I do have a question though.... I sort of like the idea of those setscrews going between the gear teeth to keep things aligned vs. pressings against teeth and relying on friction. Shouldn't be a problem as by measuring you could tell how far to screw them in without them falling in. Would all three center OK, or are the gear valleys too far apart to have all three screws line up? Can it actually be done? Anyone? Edit: I should have watched the whole video before I made this comment. He explains more near the end of the video about how the setscrews interact with gear.
Thank you. It’s actually not between the teeth like I suggested, but there are holes in the gear itself and that’s what you are trying to avoid. I don’t think there is a way to do that because there is too much room for the gear to move.
WOW.... at 4:35 you explained how more than anyone on YT or tech articles have.... I have for years wondered how the IMS bearing operates and I finally assumed it must be inside of a gear or pulley as there isnt a thru shaft like a crank even cam... BUT!!!... You confirmed by saying that it will be mobil as there is tension from several areas... I thank yo for settling this issue in my head for 5 years lol.... I have not had to do one in my shop but I always like to know what a customer is speaking of and have an answer with knowledge and not how are you paying..... THANK YOU!
Thanks for taking the time to leave a nice comment. I got a lot of crap about my shade tree efforts. But I really enjoyed making this and was hopeful it would help some guy. Again, thank for your comment! Glad it made sense!
@@onepiscestwofish5533 I can only Imagine the negative people...LOL, I remember I used to have a boat and people would comment about, one example the outdrive, How come you have this or that on it, you should have this... Id say, what do you have on your outdrive, UHHH, I dont have a boat.... EXACTLY, now please excuse me im busy!
So,,,,,!! u are not going to explain nothing about setting the TDC before removing anything ? I had watched so many videos and you are one of the worse one. If u are going to demonstrate something do it right because your stupid actions can will cost people like me lots of money due to engine damage.
Nice video! Do you need to remove the new bearing shields before installation for better oiling of the bearing? Not sure if it’s recommended or not. Thanks!
So you are putting back the same IMS bearing that can still cause a problem. Why not ceramic bearing with the direct oil feed and you are done with for good?
I found this video riveting and informative . It also enabled me to get a proper look at the connector bracket for the CPS and it’s position in relation to the CPS . 👍👍👍👍
Did anyone else notice the boob hanging out in the beginning of the video left of the screen? I’m curious what is going on back there. Haha but great info, gearing up to do mine shortly.
Hi! I just want to change my dead engine M96.20/65X to same M96.20/65w. The big proplem in this operation its camshaft sensor. I have two sensor in both camshafts, but in new same engine only one camshaft sensor in passenger side (Left hand drive). What you can recomend? Will it be the new engine without second camshaft sensor working well or not? Do you know decision exists?
Im a little confused with the placement of the o-ring? wouldn't it go on the inside of the spacer and mate with flange? I don't see what seals the flange to spacer mating surface?
Set screws hold ims shaft somehow. So you dont remove chain tensioners. I dont quite understand set screws. I'm going to try to pull out bearing using the tool . Not sure about thst. Also I have duel bearing so not sure how to put spacers
Fantastic guy to take the time and put in the considerable effort ( and bucks ) to produce a pragmatic video for DIY Joe IMS bearing replacement backyard mechanics such as I...Unbelievably all done free of charge !!! Absolutely a gift to Joe public DIY.... AND..not just the procedure / steps but also showing how to save BIG bucks on needed tools instead of having to pay $1,700.00 for IMS bearing repair kits that include tools ???..no reason for such extreme $1,700.00 kit prices...The PVC tee looks to be less than a schedule 40 wall but it does the job nicely.. Thank you Tony ever so much..
34:00 Using a socket and carefully avoiding applying impact to anything but the outer race... But I gotta wonder what's on the other end of that intermediate shaft that's taking both the side pressure of the setscrews and the side impact of the hammer blows?? Another ball bearing like the one you're being careful with? You do make use of those orange hammers. :-)
what i done on 1 of mine is replaced it witha roller bearing removed the rubber seals made a long dril t reach the other end of the shaft is the oil pump and made center spacer to keep central and drilled a 1mm hole in the back of the pump which then feeds the bearing from the back it also get lubricated from the chains spining around the origional runs dry and they colaps and are a bitch to get out ive had to have a couple burnt out becaust they were that badly chewed up they wouldnt pull out still going ok the roller bearing is 10 times stronger than the origional ball tace bearing .....while you was at it you should of took that shit german oil seal out the back and jumped on it and got it matched up with a proper oil seal with a spring around the back
Very Good and informative Video. Well done Tony! This video answered the one very important question I had to ask which is, once the bearing is removed what stops the shaft from moving? I thought surly one should remove the chain tensioners. You cleared up this question and gave a realistic view on how it is done. Thank you. From Sydney Australia.
Love your PVC IMS bearing removal tool. Next time put some moly grease on the forcing screw (which you call a "bolt"). Another tool that might work, but is some bucks, is a Kukko counterstay 22/2 and internal bearing puller 21/5 or 21/6. This is totally DIY-doable. Time to put some magnifying glasses on the workbench.
Hi Tony, thank you for the great video though I made a mistake and was wondering if you would be kind enough to either text me or email me. thank you so much
should really lock the cams on bank 1 at TDC to be on the safe side and take the chain tensioners out, makes it easier to put the cover plate back on. That's what I did anyway
The ticking sound was the thing I could hear as my water pump failed. Upon inspection it had also begun to leak. Spinning the pump didn’t give me any indication that it was failing though. It was the original pump and had lasted 60000 miles so I can’t complain.
