Fantastic guy to take the time and put in the considerable effort ( and bucks ) to produce a pragmatic video for DIY Joe IMS bearing replacement backyard mechanics such as I...Unbelievably all done free of charge !!! Absolutely a gift to Joe public DIY.... AND..not just the procedure / steps but also showing how to save BIG bucks on needed tools instead of having to pay $1,700.00 for IMS bearing repair kits that include tools ???..no reason for such extreme $1,700.00 kit prices...The PVC tee looks to be less than a schedule 40 wall but it does the job nicely.. Thank you Tony ever so much..
Good video. That’s the sort of way most of us do things. Ingenuity, economy, determination! The old fashioned sensible route. Love the way you too keep dropping things!!
Great video , thanks! Btw, for those who doesnt know. You can buy the whole kit with installer and IMS remover + cam lock + everything you need + the IMS improved design. Its like 700$ canadian so around 400-500$ USD. Some websites like LM engineering even has the tools rental service for everything you need to do the job without wasting time. No need to make your own tool , ive never seen this pulley used in the video (i live in canada so , we dont have as much auto parts store as in the states). Good luck to all !
I'm impressed with the bearing puller technique you used, plus the way you locked the gear in place. Saved a lot of time not having to pull cam plugs, then the cam locks, and cam tensioners. Saved this video for future reference, great job.
Thanks a million, Tony. I have 2000 986 S, 45,000 miles. I have had it for a while. I may attempt to replace the IMS but not sure if I have a single row or double. But thank you for your time very helpful.
Excellent tutorial. The IMS Bearing is an Extremely Common and debated topic among Boxster Owners. Your Tutorial is excellent in guiding owners to replace it themselves. It's obviously not a hard job to do. Probably good Preventative Maintenance when the Trans is removed for what ever reason. thank you
I found this video riveting and informative . It also enabled me to get a proper look at the connector bracket for the CPS and it’s position in relation to the CPS . 👍👍👍👍
Hey Joe, great video of the IMS bearing replacement. Im a DIY guy, and im not scared to pull a motor out of anything. I own a 07 911 S with 101k miles, and everything seems to be fine, but everyone is so scared about the IMS problems they had with them. Thanks for the great video.
Just bought myself a 99 boxster base 2.5L with 47,000 miles and as far as I know nothing has been done to the IMS bearing.....So after you say this bearing with 77,000 miles looks really good still makes me feel a lot better about mine since I don't plan to do the bearing as long as I own it.......This was a very nice detailed video showing how to do this.....Good job Tony.
Riley, the whole point of the IMS floofer is that there is no way to predict if you got a good or bad situation.... that is why it is called PREVENTATIVE maintenance eh???
WOW.... at 4:35 you explained how more than anyone on YT or tech articles have.... I have for years wondered how the IMS bearing operates and I finally assumed it must be inside of a gear or pulley as there isnt a thru shaft like a crank even cam... BUT!!!... You confirmed by saying that it will be mobil as there is tension from several areas... I thank yo for settling this issue in my head for 5 years lol.... I have not had to do one in my shop but I always like to know what a customer is speaking of and have an answer with knowledge and not how are you paying..... THANK YOU!
Thanks for taking the time to leave a nice comment. I got a lot of crap about my shade tree efforts. But I really enjoyed making this and was hopeful it would help some guy. Again, thank for your comment! Glad it made sense!
@@onepiscestwofish5533 I can only Imagine the negative people...LOL, I remember I used to have a boat and people would comment about, one example the outdrive, How come you have this or that on it, you should have this... Id say, what do you have on your outdrive, UHHH, I dont have a boat.... EXACTLY, now please excuse me im busy!
Very Good and informative Video. Well done Tony! This video answered the one very important question I had to ask which is, once the bearing is removed what stops the shaft from moving? I thought surly one should remove the chain tensioners. You cleared up this question and gave a realistic view on how it is done. Thank you. From Sydney Australia.
I am planning on buying a Porsche but for my price range the tales of the IMS issues has just about scared me toward something else. After watching your video I have Porsche back at the top of my list. If I can make one small suggestion, if you plan on making videos (I certainly hope that you do), I suggest that you get a Go-Pro camera with a head strap that allows it to attach to your forehead. The Go-Pro’s are expensive & you should be able to find a Chinese knock-off fo under $100. It will make your job easier because you’re not worrying about the camera & it’s placement, and will make your videos appear much more professional. Whatever you decide to do, Thank-you!!!
Thanks for a super awesome, informative video - great communication on everything that we need to know here. Just one little thing that I did notice - when you used the thicker spacer from the Dual Row IMS bag, when the securing nut is in place over the center thread, it looks like there is some exposed thread on the nut - perhaps its not a case of incorrect parts being put in bags, but a case of the single row IMS bearing spacer just being too thin?
Love your PVC IMS bearing removal tool. Next time put some moly grease on the forcing screw (which you call a "bolt"). Another tool that might work, but is some bucks, is a Kukko counterstay 22/2 and internal bearing puller 21/5 or 21/6. This is totally DIY-doable. Time to put some magnifying glasses on the workbench.
So how is the bearing that you are installing any better than the one that you are removing? I thought the idea was to UPGRADE to something better? Just trying to learn all the options.
It's not. It's no better than the one he took out. In fact, since the one he took out was in there for, I think he said over 70k miles with no trouble, I would bet the original was better. Still an excellent video!
25:54 lol. Me to buddy. I'm 54 and will be doing this on my 1999 911 dual row this year. 103,000 miles and I'm almost certain it still has the original.
Better off replacing the timing chains, the dual row stretches them over time, that’s the mechanical reason Porsche changed to the also quieter single row. Also the reason for not returning to the dual row when the IMS failures came to light. Snapped timing chain isn’t an upgradable fix where as there are many IMS replacement solutions. The results of a failed IMS and a snapped timing chain are quite similar leading to people believing a snapped timing chain failure was actually an IMS failure. Dual row timing chains should be replaced by around 80,000 miles so you are well past borrowed time. Do yourself a big favour and get them done, your IMS is almost certainly fine.
bandit 911 the dual row exerts more torque on the chain eventually the torque stretches the chain, the single row exerts less torque on the chain but more on the bearing
@Edd Herring this seems strange. in my the ramps would wear and the tensioners would collapse but the oil fed cured that.... why would the chain stretch rather than the tensioner fail?? one is designed to have GIVE in it... sorta puzzling to me... any thoughts??
Really enjoyed your video 👍 I have a 2004 C4S 66,000 miles and I want to replace my IMS very soon and wanted to do it myself, this video gives me more confidence to DIY. A mechanic friend will let me use his car lift so am looking forward to it now. I will use a flat roller bearing with an oil gully in the new cover which allows oil to be washed over the bearing constantly, kit supplied by Design 911 here in the UK for £580.00 and advertised as forever replacement. The flat roller bearings are 5 times load capacity than roller ball bearings so with this and oil gully in the cover, hopefully a one time fix as they say. Again, thanks for the “what you see is what you get” video, brilliant 👍🇬🇧
Best IMS bearing replacement video I have seen! But I have one question: The Dempsey book discusses loosening the chain tensioner bolts slightly. I don't recall seeing that step in your video. Did you do that before installing the 6mm set screws? Thanks.
Did you loosen the cam tensioners at all before doing this? Very strange, but on my 99 996 I can't get TDC to line up with the IMS sprocket without there being relief holes where the set screws are supposed to push...
Nice video! Do you need to remove the new bearing shields before installation for better oiling of the bearing? Not sure if it’s recommended or not. Thanks!
Thanks. Helpful video. More close up pics would be helpful. But glad to see it. What was the engine failure on your boxster. And how much to buy the used engine ?
Great Video. Have Q, not because I think I know everything....only a Q on this crazy Porsche design that to my knowledge was to save money on having heads that work on both banks (chain direct on left bank front, IMS shaft to drive right bank rear). Would it be easier to removed the right bank chain tensioner to relieve stress on IMS shaft? Please advise, Mr. P
Good question. I’m going to go with “maybe” - the idea of the set screws is they will hold the IMS (shaft) in place even with the tensioners in place. So there is no real need to loosen them. Loosening them when you do it this way doesn’t really buy you anything or make it any easier as you are not fighting them in any fashion once the set screws are in place. Additionally, if you loosen the tensioners you do run the albeit small risk of having a chain move on you and wrecking the timing. There are reasons to loosen the chain tensioners, but if you are just doing an IMS replacement like this it’s not necessary, in my opinion.
Using set screws is a great solution. Not having to lock cams and remove chain tensioners could save lots of work. Wondering why this isn't the standard approach when removing the IMS bearing!?
Hi! I just want to change my dead engine M96.20/65X to same M96.20/65w. The big proplem in this operation its camshaft sensor. I have two sensor in both camshafts, but in new same engine only one camshaft sensor in passenger side (Left hand drive). What you can recomend? Will it be the new engine without second camshaft sensor working well or not? Do you know decision exists?
NIce video! On the center M8 retainer/spacer/O ring, wouldn't the O ring go first, then the spacer? That way the oil is sealed off sooner. I've had a '00 Boxster and looking at buying an '01 S that's on the original IMS bearing.
This is super informative. Thanks for this video. What prevents the bearing from free spinning inside the ims hollow shaft? Is the pressure of being pressed into the shaft the only thing that prevents the bearing from "spinning out" messing up the timing? If so I can see how the failure of the bearing would be a bad occurrence. Replacement every 40,000 miles seems quite often :|
The IMS bearing is just that: a bearing that has no gearing or other timing components. If it spins within the intermediate shaft (IMS) itself, that's fine, so long as it keeps the shaft centered. However, the shaft is geared and timed, and thus you don't want it spinning during this process. Luckily, if you have a pin holding the camshaft top dead center (it's "home" position), all gears and timing chains will be held in place, including the IMS. That means the timing of the entire engine stays correct. Locking that cam is the most important step in this process, but it is also wise to avoid exerting any rotational force on the IMS itself, which is why those locking allen nuts he puts in at the beginning of the video are also useful. Those nuts are a second failsafe, holding the chaft (really just a cylinder of metal) in place by putting pressure on its edges.
Why are there orange blobs (caulk) on so many of the bolts on your engine? I have a 2000 and have not seen that on mine. I would assume it is to mark them to see if they have vibrated loose.
Oh, good question. This was an eBay /junk yard engine. It showed up that way when I bought it. That would have been something the junk yard did as a way to confirm everything was checked/there before shipping it to me. That is not something the factory does.
Right, this is a Pelican Parts replacement bearing. It's pretty much the same bearing from what I can tell. Just new. They recommend replacing it frequently, I think with the clutch every 40k miles or somewhere around there. It seems excessive to me, but knowing how touchy these engines are its probably smart to do.
Im a little confused with the placement of the o-ring? wouldn't it go on the inside of the spacer and mate with flange? I don't see what seals the flange to spacer mating surface?
Best video on this I've seen so far. T-Y. I do have a question though.... I sort of like the idea of those setscrews going between the gear teeth to keep things aligned vs. pressings against teeth and relying on friction. Shouldn't be a problem as by measuring you could tell how far to screw them in without them falling in. Would all three center OK, or are the gear valleys too far apart to have all three screws line up? Can it actually be done? Anyone? Edit: I should have watched the whole video before I made this comment. He explains more near the end of the video about how the setscrews interact with gear.
Thank you. It’s actually not between the teeth like I suggested, but there are holes in the gear itself and that’s what you are trying to avoid. I don’t think there is a way to do that because there is too much room for the gear to move.
So you are putting back the same IMS bearing that can still cause a problem. Why not ceramic bearing with the direct oil feed and you are done with for good?
Hi Tony Porsche parts catalog indicates single row bearings were fitted after engine number 11238 .... out of interest what was the engine number? apparently there are still some 2001 models out there with the double row bearings
should really lock the cams on bank 1 at TDC to be on the safe side and take the chain tensioners out, makes it easier to put the cover plate back on. That's what I did anyway
Tony, you didn't need to lock the camshafts and release the tensioners? I saw you had the tool kit sitting on the floor, but looks like you didn't use it...And I notice you answered this at the end of your video...NICE.
@@onepiscestwofish5533 First time I have seen the set screw thing done and it was cool....HOWEVER, I think I would at least have used the longer end of the Allen to put some more pressure on those...banging on that bearing made me a little skittish as you were banging the IMS away from the Allen bolt tension.... could have been a BAD DAY in the making....
@29:00 --- seems like Pelican still hasn't fixed the mispackaged spacers. mine came incorrect also -- they should of provided better instructions with the package. thanks for pointing it out
Thanks! From what I understand it can be done in the car. The transmission comes out pretty easily - like in an hour (I've done it a few times) the engine on the other hand takes the good part of a day to remove. If you just wanted to do the IMS I'd for sure try it with the engine in the car.
@@onepiscestwofish5533 With A/C taking the engine out is a real pain in the ass... if you can get any kind of a two foot lift going on...like that gig Sarah n Tune uses...it makes taking the trans and doing the job easier... the old days of having a bit of a PIT in the garage are MISSED, eh??
Set screws hold ims shaft somehow. So you dont remove chain tensioners. I dont quite understand set screws. I'm going to try to pull out bearing using the tool . Not sure about thst. Also I have duel bearing so not sure how to put spacers
Looks like the O-ring and that bushing would have to be turned upside down that the O-ring should touch the yolk assembly that is held on with three bolts whatever that may be called and that the seal to keep oil from leaking would have to be at that point? But I’m sure that the bearing comes with some instructions and or the information is out there on this type of replacement, I have a 2000 Cabriolet 911Just went over 140,000 miles not sure as I’ve only had it for three years so hope someone upgraded it at some point meanwhile I’ll go easy on it
What are the chances of cracking the aluminum case while hitting on the IMS shaft sitting in the middle between the 2 case halves !? Or even damaging the plain IMS bearing or mating surfaces on the case ? What about damaging the gears inside the oil pump or the shaft between the IMS shaft and pump that rotates the oil pump !? I am just not comfortable with all that hammering on the shaft, there has to be a safer way to press that bearing in !!
34:00 Using a socket and carefully avoiding applying impact to anything but the outer race... But I gotta wonder what's on the other end of that intermediate shaft that's taking both the side pressure of the setscrews and the side impact of the hammer blows?? Another ball bearing like the one you're being careful with? You do make use of those orange hammers. :-)
CGT Vivo yes, yes it would! I’ve seen 200k engines that have never had them replaced. But I’ve also seen 80k mile engines that were worn significantly. I’ve done a few M96 engines with cracked heads and I always replace them.
Spoke to a dealer mechanic and he said he's had quite a few cars come in with the newly added oil like to the bearing damaged or ripped off causing engine failure. He said he had seen that often enough that he felt the repair was more dangerous than just installing the factory replacement. IDK... I have a 2003 with 84000 miles and mine has not been replaced. I hate just HOPING it doesn't fail...
I do. One that is in bad shape, I'm not quite sure the extent of the failure but it was ran with no oil pressure for a while. The second one is out of a similar mileage identical car that was wrecked.
Both of those were mentioned - it is from a 2001 Boxster S, so the 3.2L engine. The original bearing was a single row and it was fine. It was replaced with a very similar single row. I even give the old/new bearing part numbers in the video. Enjoy!
question my friend.. and sorry about that i guess i missed that one. but i do have a 2000 boxster 2.7 the MFD date says 99 is it safe to assume i might have the dual row bearing car runs great i do plan on changing the clutch and ims in may of 2021
what i done on 1 of mine is replaced it witha roller bearing removed the rubber seals made a long dril t reach the other end of the shaft is the oil pump and made center spacer to keep central and drilled a 1mm hole in the back of the pump which then feeds the bearing from the back it also get lubricated from the chains spining around the origional runs dry and they colaps and are a bitch to get out ive had to have a couple burnt out becaust they were that badly chewed up they wouldnt pull out still going ok the roller bearing is 10 times stronger than the origional ball tace bearing .....while you was at it you should of took that shit german oil seal out the back and jumped on it and got it matched up with a proper oil seal with a spring around the back
Hi Tony, thank you for the great video though I made a mistake and was wondering if you would be kind enough to either text me or email me. thank you so much
Obviously, the permanent solution is to replace the Porsche engine with a Chevy LS engine... no more IMS, Plastic water pumps, plastic coolant pipes...
@@akaClancy Who is Hooptie? What sort of nightmare? The LS is more powerful, lighter, is utterly reliable, and has much lower operating costs... (I looked but don't see Tyler RU-vid channel)
To be fair you do have to pull the transmission to get to the point where I started the video. I can get a transmission out in under an hour. 4 hours seems about right. I’m actually surprised Porsche is that low.
