Welcome to the GT Woodshop. GT stands for Graham and Tina my Very understanding wife.
I've been addicted to making 'Stuff' out of wood (and tools) since I was a teenager. I love to see the grain reveal itself and take on a new life in the piece I'm working on, its magical. I hope to be able to share some of that magic with you on this channel.
I'll cover tools reviews, product reviews, 'how to' and how not to amongst other things. This could be quite the little journey, I hope you'll join me and have fun and maybe even learn a little something along the way.
Not sure where you got your info from but these diesel heaters will run by gravity feed without the pump being actually connected using a inline medical type drip feed to the fuel line and a dummy load to the pump such as a 12 volt light , the pump pressure is very low and there is no injector the fuel just hits (?) the mesh and vaporises through the mesh after it's been heated so there is no injector like a diesel car has. The pump ticking is audible through a glass sliding door and is outside. It can be quietened down a bit by wrapping it with an ironing board insulation matt the felt and synthetic fibre type as I did but it still has a tick on start up (pain) For your worry about those protruding screws , use small short stainless steel nut and bolts. I had an initial learning curve with mine running it on low for too long, around 15-20 hours, caused gobs of soot and carbon build up in the burn and expansion chambers. Just so I don't damage my gasket again I used a copper coat both sides which saves the wait time for a new set. After viewing many a review about these diesel heaters my only question would be , Why don't they have a better burn off when they go through the shut down sequence to get rid off the excess in the burn and expansion chambers? Now I am looking at better sources of diesel as the place I got my diesel from sells dirty fuel or low grade at best. Cheers good information is useful Mate thanks.
Hey bought one to for my little man cave. I followed everything from your idea . Everything works great. Thank you very much. Sir. Hey RU-vid we need more people like him or her. Take my friend from Ontario Canada 🇨🇦.
Thanks. Mine vibrates a lot. Not sure why. Lots of vibration right at the guides. I'm thinking of calling Felder. I think I may have gotten one with something wonky with it.
I love your bread box. As a matter of fact I purchased your plans for it to make them as gifts and such. HOWEVER, I have a question. In the video you mentioned that you used "Utility" timber for the dark sides and Ash for the contrast. I would normally use something like Walnut for the dark, but I really love the look of that lumber in the video. Can you please tell me what "Utility timber is - or at least the name of the wood that you used in your video. Thank you
Hi Wil, thank you. Utile (used in the video ) is very similar to Meranti or Sapele, either one would look lovely in my opinion, as would Walnut, of course. 👍👍
I am a learning beginner woodworker, so I don’t know much. I get my hardwood from Surrey Timbers which are about an hour’s drive away. They do have a good selection of exotic woods. I have no clue about how good the prices are as I don’t know anywhere else similar!
Brilliant video, I have an old bosch delta sander with finger sanding accessories, it is very good. The festool looks better in delta sanding mode because the orbital action uses the whole pad not just the outside.
I'd say radial arm saw because they can also rip lumber. Had I known all they were capable of doing before just recently I would have never bought the contractor saw I have now as it takes up more of my garage space than what the RAS would, especially considering I already have a ready built space for it between work benches where my old miter chop saw now resides. I'd simply have to adjust the height of the stand of the chop saw to fit the RAS.
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Great video - I’ve been loving my RO90. It’s fab for things like doors, windows and furniture. Well worth purchasing the dedicated slat pad - 496803 - it’s just that bit more flexible and great for getting in between the slats. I find the foam pads are great for curved areas as well :)
His no engineer mate his an Aussie battler who's owned many a victor lawnmower!😂 His information is correct and anyone who owns a deisel heater should take note... There a simple flawless design when used correctly..👌
Great job the cutting board looks amazing. Can’t wait hoping to get my first 3D printer soon and as someone with absolutely zero experience with this machine I’m excited to try it out. And one of the things I definitely want to make is your circle cutting plans and to print the peace for it it looks amazing. Thanks for sharing.
joli mais trop complexe et difficile à régler , je préfère le Veritas qui semble plus facile et dispose de l'angle supplémentaire de 2 degrés pour le morphile .
Frankly I we can easily flatten even worse but if I has a shop doing morticing work and time was expensive I would choose another tool, nowdays though most proffessional woodworkers use a mortice drill and just cleanup with chisels. For hobby woodworkers this is just sweet for the price and made in Europe too. I just ordered a Narex mortice chisel 12mm for my new project.
Here in Portugal second hand RAS's are easy to find and relatively cheap. I recently bought an Omga 600. This is an industrial quality machine. Eight bearings, bronze bushings, and ultra sturdy construction. New 8000 Euros, second hand in the low hundreds. There are fashions in woodworking machines, presently the RAS is as out of fashion as a mullet cut.
Mate, you have helped me fix an issue with my TS-LS Positioner since I bought the darn thing 4+ years ago. It kept binding towards the front. No matter what I did and who I spoke to (including Incra Support), I could not get it to stop binding. I was tightening the middle arm when it was fully extended. I had to rely on the tighening clamp to square up my fence, which was not always 100% great. Thanks so much and I have no idea why it took RU-vid so long to suggest this video when I searched for this type of videos every 6-9 months looking for suggestions. Thanks a million!
Used this as my very first print on my S1. Strangely, my .100mm and .120mm fit nicely, but the .110mm seemed tighter than the .120mm. For the 3mm basswood I used, I think anything between .100mm and .120mm would probably work well enough to make me happy. Thanks for sharing this video!
have the guide not the kit. The kits not worth it since i have quick release clamps .For the price festool should have giving it to you instead of those shit clamps in comes with
If you have grown up using a radial arm saw, then you know how good it is for ripping. It is also extremely safe when used in ripping mode. See video entitled "Push Board for Ripping on Radial Arm Saw". So, I suggest putting both the mitre saw and that that humungous cabinet saw in the background in storage. Think of the room that would create in your shop.
Nice, but you can't use the bread board right in front of the bin or the sawing motion of the bread knife will forever be hitting the breadbox. Still a nice way to store it though.
I appreciate this type of “not speaking” format, but I much prefer your spoken explanation and banter throughout the videos. It feels more personal, like we are there having a good conversation.
