3ftDeep™ is a couple of guys from White Rock, BC. We produce good quality, clear, step-by-step Sea-Doo personal water craft maintenance and repair videos, and ocean and river jet ski rides. Our channel is dedicated to those who share our enthusiasm for the greatest water sport in the world!
Nice video but I much prefer the original dials of my 2020 Speed Twin. The more I look at them the more I like them. Also the different size numbers of each clock on the new dials doesn't look right.
I did mine with success. I think what you did wrongly is either put it too thick or apply multiple layer. I pour out as much as I can, turn the tank around for an hour or two, and then leave it for another week before pour gas in. If you put it too thick or didn't let it fully cure between layers, the gas inside need to find a way out and that's probably the reason it start to peeling from beneath.
Could be. We actually put three coats to make sure it was fully covered, but you may have hit the nail on the head. Still, I think next time we’ll leave it to the professionals.
@MarthaGomez-h3o Yes, but when you buy a used bike, you get it as is. Also, much older tanks will naturally start rusting. I believe fuel tanks can be galvanized and it’s probably better than coating it with paint. Not sure how it compares to epoxy, though.
@@3ftDeepChannel no,not an insult,just a genuine question but I do think the whole chemical thing revolves around cleanliness and perfect conditions to apply any liner( I’ve got a bike that’s almost 100 years old and I’m still thinking of using the original tank without liners as I’ve heard so much about failure surrounding liners, 👍🏻
hello,i have to change ball joint at the end of my steering section on my wake pro 215 2016. model, how to keep that metal basket up in order to approach the ball joint and replace it? do i have to remove any fuses for that or something? thanks in advance
Awesome video!! Very technical !! Thanks for helping the fellas out there ! I was looking atound to see if such video would be needed (if i should make one ) but theres no need for it you did an exellent job my man !! Kudos to you 😁😎
Hmm. Have you tried some good penetrating oil (i.e. NOT WD-40)? Apply some and let that sit for at least 24 hours and reapply, if necessary. If that doesn’t work, a little heat and some muscle with a set of good quality wrenches usually works. Good luck.
@@3ftDeepChannel why would it fail?? Fill up the tank up, fuel stabilizer, new plugs and oil change in the spring, even if that?? Especially if it’s in an insulated garage you don’t need all that nonsense.
The enemy is salt water. If you don’t ride in salt water then it’s not such a big deal. If you do, however, it needs intensive care before being put away.
What's the importance of the 2 person step (1 pouring & 1 sealing the drain)- If I do this on my own, can I stop in the middle of pouring to screw in the drain, and then continue topping off the coolant? Or is there a significance to having a continuous flow while screwing in the drain screw?
That would be fine. One person can do the job. You will have a continuous flow when you screw in the drain, as that is the lowest point and it’ll keep flowing until most of the coolant is gone.
Today I saw your very instructive video and tried to find the tools on your page using the link and it doesn't let me see them. Could you tell me where I can buy them? 2011 Sea doo GTI LTD 155. Thanks and regards.
Thanks. We actually showed the entire process. The needle bearings are applied to the grease on the shaft to get them to stick around the shaft (we put them on in sections; there are lots of them). The drive gear them slides over them and will rotate over the bearings surface. Needle bearings provide a wide bearing surface as they are not spherical, but instead are cylindrical.
My 650 Turbo had a little crack of about 1-2 centimeter at the cylinder on the water side, that went up to the top. The head gasket could not covered that crack. So, the crack was just in the aluminum.
@@3ftDeepChannel When I saw it , I used a special glue. Before, I used cooler-tight what helped to get me home from Scotland and Norway. Both tours were a torture. Now, I have a GSX 1100 F. No aluminum, no watercooling , no ECU and no hided alternator. The alternator was the first thing, that broke down after I bought the bike.
Sure. This is from your Owner's Manual: Displaying Fault Codes Press the MODE button repeatedly un- til the FAULT CODE function is visible in the multifunction display. Press the SET or the UP/DOWN but- ton to enter the function and display the first fault code, then press the UP/DOWN button repeatedly to dis- play each subsequent code. NOTE: When the last fault code has been displayed and the button is pressed again, the system loops back to the first fault code displayed, and all fault codes can again be displayed. If there was one active fault code when entering the FAULT CODE mode, and it becomes occurred (no longer active), a NO ACTIVE FAULT CODE message will scroll in the display. To exit the FAULT CODE display func- tion, the MODE or SET button must be pressed once. There is no time out on this function.
Hello you have very informational videos, some people just come to be spoon fed. But you give us what we need thanks! Im having trouble and im wondering if you wouldnt mind a response or two thank you! I have a 06 gti 155. Idk PO.(no history). It needed plugs as they were corroded ski sat for a while, change gas it started fine took it to the lake. About 5 mins on trailer 5 mins 1/4 throttle then limp mode overheating buzzer. Shut down ski started back idled to dock. Took home found oil in coolant, did a blue liquid check stayed blue. Leak down stayed at 10% each cylinder. Has low hours on ski. No bubbles through (cool res). But i do see a few black flakes. Idk what direction to go any help is greatly appreciated and needed thank you!
There are three ways that problem normally arises: 1. Faulty oil cooler. 2. Faulty head gasket. 3. Faulty seal in water pump. Black flakes usually indicates a bad head gasket, but not always. The overheating warning may actually be a separate problem. That one may just be a bad temperature sensor. I'd check that out. As for the corroded spark plugs, that's not normal. That suggests that water vapor (hopefully not standing water) was in the cylinders, which may also suggest that of the three possible causes of oil mixing it is most likely to be your head gasket. The oil coolers don't fail as regularly, so that would be last on my list. That's where I'd start. Good luck!
I thought I already responded to this comment, but can't see it. It makes me wonder how suitable it really is in an engine. Doesn't sound like a good long-term strategy, but the engine internals sure looked good.
Hi, can you please tell if the same original bolts can be reused to fix the rails to the frame or there are longer ones comming together with rails. Asking because I want to remove these rails and not sure if I will need new shorter bolts.
How many hours to do install and did you post or hsve s link for all parts needed. I have an 03 185, assume install is the same, yes I have upgraded the pump already.
It took us a few hours to do the job, but that will vary on the machine you’re working on, and your technical skills. Here’s the list of parts we listed in the description section below the video on RU-vid: Parts List: (for a 2008 RXT-X 255 Sea-Doo) 270 000 706 Intercooler tray 293 850 067 Intercooler straps, need two 293 830 124 Rubber mat 270 000 718 Rear support 273 000 238 Supercharger to intercooler hose Intercooler and the following parts came from: www.siliconeintakes.com/ Type 3 SIL000064 - 3” to 2.5” silicone reducer BRE000954 - 3” to 2.5” 90 deg silicone reducer JOI000112 - 2.5” stainless steel silicone joiners CLA000102 - 2.5” T bolt clamps CLA000104 - 3.0” T bolt clamps
So the parts listed will work on the 185:as in your video ? Also the first part of list part #s are from where, do you sell most of the parts needed ? Thanks
Sorry, we don’t sell any parts. You can find the exact parts you need for your machine by going on Sea-Doo’s website under Parts Catalog and looking at the parts diagram for your machine.
So I have a 2007 RXT 215 and I'm 99% sure the pump bearings are bad/have failed because the impeller spins freely and doesn't "stick" like a normal greased bearing would. I'm debating rebuilding it but being 17 years old I'm probably better off just replacing the whole thing wouldn't you think? I'm in a pickle trying to find a replacement and would like some insight/advise of which route to go and/or any recommendations for a replacement pump. Thanks! Also this video was super helpful and answered a lot of my questions I had about rebuilding my pump!
As long as you have the tools and patience, a 17-year-old can do it. Mechanics is just like cooking: just follow the instructions in perfect detail. If you’re going to tackle these types of jobs, it’s highly recommended to get a Service Manual for your machine. It is much cheaper to rebuild it, and you can learn a lot while you do it. Just make sure you’ve got all the tools (including torque wrenches) to do the job. SBT makes replacement pumps that are reliable and much cheaper than Sea-Doo’s OEM pumps. Buying the tools is a good investment, if you’re going to continue with repairs and maintenance yourself. Good luck!
@@3ftDeepChannel I bought the service manual for it and my brother has a press I can use. I just don't want to mess it up and then I wasted my time and money when I could have just replaced the whole thing.
@@3ftDeepChannel also it looks like the sbt pump doesn't come with the cone. Do I need to fill the cone with grease before reassembling it with my impeller?
You can get the cone from Sea-Doo. They’re not that expensive. Or, you can reuse your old one if it’s still in good condition. In recent Service Manuals, they no longer state to add grease into the nose cone. That’s probably because it never went anywhere, anyways. We just normally make sure it’s completely covered and add some more, but we don’t put any into the cone.
I was given a mosko mount set, that is attached to a pair a Malle panniers from London. As I didn't get the pucks, I adapted them with TV aerial mounts, they did the same job as the pucks. I fitted them To a 23 model Himalayan( fitted perfectly) My mosko rack mounts have a steel twist lock on top, then you fold it back, and can lock the set with a padlock, which I have done. I would say the Mosko pannier mounts I have are an earlier design, but works very similar to these particular ones in this vid. I am very happy with them, as the panniers and the mounts were free, saving me over a $1000.
I can’t recall the details, but I believe it was a “dutch” connector. If you Google that with your old connector in hand, you will locate it like we did from Amazon. Make sure you get the housing, terminals and inner support.
Some gentle taps with a hammer against a block of wood placed strategically against a protrusion on the housing and gradually working your way around it tapping.
Any idea what the top bolt towards the front of the PWC is? I cannot get on it with literally anything it looks square but does not fit an 8mm or 7mm wrench.
To be certain what you’re dealing with, you should check the parts diagram on Sea-Doo’s website. That will let you know exactly what it is supposed to be there on your machine. Good luck.
