I'm a Toyota certified master technicion trying to help out the DIY person and other automotive technicians. My goal is to help save the DIY person money and hopefully speed up the process for other technicians. If you have any input, fill free to let me know what your thoughts are. If there is something on a Toyota that you would like to learn about, let me know. I will do my best to get content out.
Looks like I’ll be doing this myself because Toyota quoted me $1,200 JUST TO INSTALL IT not including the $500 just for the part. Thank you so much for this walkthrough.
When I reinstall the condenser, should I add in the oil myself before I drive over to get the AC recharged, or should I have the shop add in the condenser oil and charge the system with refrigerant.
I’m installing the factory hitch for a moto rack to haul my motorcycle. I don’t like the little metal tab for mounting the wiring plug. I saw another video where the guy’s cut out on the rear bumper was just around the receiver hitch. It looks a lot nicer. You could still have the wiring plug….just not mounted on the tab. I also noticed in the other video that the cutout of the bumper was a little tighter. Looks a little better. The width of the suggested cut out is 110mm. The outermost bars on the receiver hitch is 80mm. I’m gonna cut my opening 90mm. Great video though. Really helped me.
Ya definitely looks better with the smaller hole. That's how I would do it if I was not going to do wiring on my own vehicle. This was a customers vehicle, and I was not sure if they were going to get wiring eventually.
I just finished my install. Turned out great. I cut the wiring harness tab off. You could just have the plug tied off at the back of the receiver hitch if need be. Is there anything else that would be recommended for a ‘21 RAV4 Prime with regards to any electronic settings or general adjustments due to the heavier piece so far in the back of the vehicle?
@@shoptimewithdrew One last thing…. I ended up making the width about 95-100mm, and the height 35mm higher than than template had it at. Also, aren’t there different bumper covers for the Prime vs others. Mine has a plastic insert in the middle of the bumper about 4 1/2’ wide. After cutting it out per the template (without the cut away for the plug attachment piece) it was too low. If I can figure out how to attach a photo, I will so that others can benefit from my work.
@@shoptimewithdrew .... It was a woman's service adviser and she thought I was trying to start the engine instead of inspect the pistons... I called another dealer and they said yeah you can rotate the crank by hand... woamen again!!!
You just made the most sense of this engine's timing belt - and since it is an interference engine, it's important to KNOW this before going at it. I still love my 5VZFE, but after seeing this, I'm not afraid of the 2UZ.
if im doing head gasket and timing at the same time. Can I just proceed to remove the intake manifold and work from the top once I remove the timing belt? No need to remove lower components anymore except the exhaust manifold/headers, right? FOR THIS MOTOR 2UZ-FE VVT from a 05 sequoia
@@shoptimewithdrew what is the difference betweeb I line mark and the T mark on the timing. I know you mentioned for timing belt change alighne cam sprockets with T and the white dot. Do Want to keep the crank and cams at T mark for timing belt even for a head gasket. The Toyota manual says to go 50 degrees and align the mark on the crank shaft with the timing pulley middle bolt. Is this referring to the white dot mark. Manual does not mention the white dot mark as you did
@@shoptimewithdrew So TDC is the preliminary part to set up taming right before removing the belt. So before removing the belt you go to the T mark then remove the belt and that is a safe position for the engine internals for the head gasket aswell? is that what you mean.
@mikemike4737 Yes, you can do the timing belt at either set of marks. The T mark will prevent harm to the internals. So I always set it to the T mark, like in the video, whether I'm just doing a timing belt job or doing headgaskets. I never use the other marks.
Hi, thank you for this video. I’m sorry for my lack of knowledge but the white grease you used for the water pump o-ring was white lithium grease? Thank you.
I installed this lift on 4runner. FYI rear makes loud noise on big bumps due to the stock bushing being between spring and spacer and not directly Above spring. Gonna remove it. Front is stiff, rough on bumps. Gonna remove also. Recommend getting lift shocks and springs instead of spacer lifts 🤷♂️
Hey drew I have a question about the thermostat bleeder valve I seen manuals say to put them in with the bleeder valve in the 6pm position which is better the up on down position I am about to do a water pump and timing set with the new thermostat as well
You are correct. The manual says to install it in the 6 position. This is the only vehicle I have seen that, so I installed it at the 12 position still. I have heard that either way will not cause an issue.
Hey man, I appreciate the help so much. One more question. I am putting mine back together (a 2022) and the kit came with a plastic cap and media (I think that’s what it is) to put in the dryer on the condenser. I didn’t see this in your video and was confused and searched up the number. The number linked me to exactly what I had but it was on a ford parts website for a Ford. My dryer on the condenser already has a cap in the dryer part. Can you shed any light on this?
I would probably pull the cap and see if there is a desiccant bag in there. You probably have to install it. The cap that is on there now was just for assembly and testing. The desiccant pulls moisture out of the system as soon as the wrap is opened. The bag will start pulling moisture out of the air. I think aftermarket companies don't install them because they don't know how long the part may sit on the shelf. Hope this info helps.
@@nathanmoore7100 same here man. Rock hit it and put pin holes in it and no more ac. I’m a DIY mechanic and was able to get it done with buying all the tools still almost half of what the dealer quoted.
This is BS!!! Why don't you have more subscribers? ....... C'mon people, get your shit together. One of the best and most informative videos I've ever seen on the 3.4 . . Well done!!!!!!
If you are having trouble, you can break the bolt free and then turn it to top dead center. Then the crank won't move when you break the bolt free the second time.
Nice video. I'm not doing a big lift like that. I'm just going to put a 1-in front spacer and replace the torsion bar end links. But I would like to add a 1/2-in spacer to the rear. Do you know who makes just a 1/2-in spacer? I can probably just use a coil compressor manually pull down that coil and put the spacer in without dropping any subframe. Thank you!
Thanks for the response. I know they're out there. I've seen them on other kits. I know Subaru has mild leveling kits. But I already did the front spacer so it's not a radical difference. It is pretty level. I just think that if I ever loaded up I might have a little tail drag. But I'm probably just going to wait until the new Bilstein terra sport shocks and struts come out for this model year. Thank you
Hey man, is this process the same for the 2022 Toyota RAV4 LE FWD NOT hybrid? I am figuring out the condenser is slightly different than the 2019-2021. But is the process the same?
One is top dead center, and one is past top dead center. You want to put the crank at the dot past the zero mark and then rotate the cams to the T marks. This way, the pistons are slightly down.
Come on Toyota! Why do I need to cut something to install a hitch receiver? I hate those shitty work. Is it so hard to add into design the possible installation of the hitch reciver?
You could buy a Chevy that has the hidden hitch cover, but then it would be in the shop all the time for problems. I would rather own a Toyota and have to trim a little plastic that you will never see.
@@shoptimewithdrew It's not about what to buy; I just can't understand why not to put it into design? It obviously has mounting holes for bolts, but still, you need to modify and make some ugly cutouts.
Excellent video Drew!!! I've liked and subscribed to your channel. I have a 2021 RAV4 Prime that dealer said there a pinhole leak in my condenser but my A/C is still cold. Do you think I can use some J-B Weld to stop the leak? Thanks, Michael
My 2010 is making this noise, I had a code p0301 but my mechanic couldn’t figure out what caused it and of course it didn’t happen while with them. I don’t seem to be losing coolant so I’m praying it’s not the head gasket. So I’m reading to check the EGR which I had replaced five years ago, or possibly throttle body cleaning?
