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Hi. I feel an obligation to write to share with you a tremendous gratitude for this excellent tutorial. Great clarity and detail. Camera work is also excellent. My Alfa caught fire last week and the primary damage was to this specific area of the car. Your video has given me the confidence to begin work. Thanks.
Hi there , that is so nice of course I’m a bit biased as we own a teal blue on that my father built and sprayed 20 years ago and it’s still looking good. ATB with the build up. 👍
what supplier did you use for the throttle body coupling? The one I bought from classic alfa is a little too large, just like the one you mentioned. Would like to find the exact replica if I could
I am finding your work really useful thank you. I brought a Travller as a "work in progress" and so I never got to pull it apart so putting together is a nightmare as the books just say "put it back together the same way you pulled it apart...." and "be careful pulling it apart".... I will be coming back many times after swearing at the car as the wood on my car is not drilled because the wood was commissioned out of macrocarpa and so the person who made the frame ddi not make any of the needed releif cuts. As I know your next question is what is Macrocapa, it has a deap rich golden colour and is near bomb proof in strength and rot resistance. But it is loved by the wood lice if damp....Think of a dark Oaken colour with golden and red highlights when varneshed, that's macrocarpa without varnish.
I find a grinder through torsion bar cut heads off bolts then Chap out pin punch getting the transmission cover off is hell spent 2 hours grinding brass heads off
You covered many good points. I think that if you wanted this to last, and to not immediately burn the brushes/commutator, the commutator should have been turned flat to eliminate the ridges and rough surface (about 8:15). At 9:30 they are still visible. The brushes should also be "bedded in" before asking them to carry full current. See the "Lucas Manual A6" for great instructions. Did you check the front bearing for play and/or roughness? The original bearing has no seals, but a replacement is a VERY standard 6202-2RS (15x35x11mm thick) double-sealed - widely available and inexpensive. My C40 is on my 1957 Alfa Romeo Spider - like you, still having fun at our ages!
A lot of people call a bolt / nut 'Whitworth' when in fact they are BSF. Most spanners (wrenches) and sockets post 1960 are marked with both Whitworth and BSF sizes on each tool. Basically the threads are different and the 'size' refers to the shank size but the heads are the same. The tools will be marked for example 'W' and 'BS'. For instance, a spanner marked 5/16”BS (for BSF) will generally be marked 1/4”W (for Whitworth) as well No Whitworth sizes were used on Minors they were all BSF or BA. The exception being the engines post the first side valvers which were all UNF / UNC which are familiar in the USA.
I just found your excellent channel albeit a year late. Forgive me! I recently started a restoration or a 1965 Minor 1000 2 door saloon so your efforts are really saving me some time. Thank you. Just as an aside: That registration number (which in the UK stays with the car throughout its life even if a personalised number is used) is made up of 3 parts - the last letter identifies the year it was first registered and 'J' is 1970 so near the end of production, the second two letters are an area identifier and 'LF' was North West London which leaves 'G 429' as the actual car identifier. We Brits do like a bit of complication but it works!
Very interesting and thanks a lot for the video. I'm looking forward to buying a minor in the next few months and this information is valuable. Colin UK 🇬🇧
Thanks, that was very helpful. The Haynes manual simply states that you have to remove the whole thing with the drive cable, which seemed the wrong approach to me. Your method is better by far.
Thanks for uploading this video. I am restoring my 1958 Morris Minor and struggling a bit with the doors but your video helped. That bracket type thing you removed from inside the door that has the piece of rubber at one end must be what the manual refers to as an anti-drum bracket. The bonnet has it too but with felt instead of rubber to minimize 'drumming' rattle. Greetings from South Africa :->
Well done. Hoping you can tell me the purpose of the small cutout at the base of the bigger panel (both sides) - where it is slightly rolled outwards please, like is it essential?
Would love to see how this has progressed - did a total restore of a 1955 MM 1000 van in the late 70's-early 80's in Melbourne Australia - unfortunately here there is always going to be rust in the Morries. Spent weeks cutting it out and welding in new sections. My brother was living in the UK at the time, so he was still able to source genuine parts for the visible bits that needed replacing, but the sub-frame chassis and body needed lots of surgery. They were actually manufactured here in Australia I think also until around the early 70's. This one is going to be a cracker - good luck and keep at it.
Very Interesting video.I have a 67 4 door but the engine no doesn't tally with the Log book ( in uk).Log book is 10MA-U-273837 .Engine in car 10MA-U-311795.not original engine.
engine compartment about as clean and simple as an "A" can get, IMO. nice job! and as time goes by, i'm liking the steelies and hubsopas more and more on these cars. seems to suit the '50's cars for some reason.
