My 2019 Ioniq EV baffled me when this happened too. There is a manual release, but one can simply push the key fob lock/unlock and it releases the charger cable. I'm not sure if there is any special order, but it works.
My 2021 Kia Soul has a 'Aux. Battery Saver' which controls when the 12V battery is topped up. This mode will probably be similar in many Kias. By default it is on but can be turned off, so it is probably worth checking. Additionally the manual says: "If the Aux. Battery Saver+ function activates more than 10 times consecutively when in the automatic mode, the function will stop activating".
About 4 months ago I bought a Jag I-Pace which is nearly 4 years old now. Did a bit of local driving recently, then parked up to eat lunch, with the audio system on, climate off, but not in 'Ready to Drive' mode. My drive battery was at about 80%. Ate my lunch in 20 mins, and when I tried to start the car everything went dead...no screens on, couldn't lock the car, open the trunk or frunk...NOTHING! Called the RAC, and after messing around with booster cables with no luck (other than briefly getting the dash screen to power up) we changed the 12v batttery and problem solved. Now, before this car I drove an E-class Merc and only had to replace the original battery when it was 12 years old, and that was really because some time before I'd had an alternator failure, and another breakdown, and on both occasions had fully depleted the battery and probably damaged it. What the hell is going on with EVs and these 12v battery probs????? Batteries needing replacement after a few years?? All the billions they have spent on the main battery and drive system, the control electronics and software, and now we have all makes of EVs apparently leaving their owners stranded because of the 12v monitoring and charging methodology. Oh, the frustration of being stuck for hours with a flat 12v battery, with NO WARNING, yet having about 80Kwhrs of charge sat there in the floor of the car doing nothing!!!! I'm an experienced electronics/automotive/automation/software engineer, and even I struggle to understand how this EV of mine works and thinks. I had grave reservations about buying an EV, but the Jag in HSE spec is a great car and so cheap used that it was a no-brainer in the end. BUT, not sure if I'd buy another EV....too complicated, not thought out well enough. It's like the engineers have spent so much time on the new elec systems that the 'old fashioned' 12v side has been scrimped on. After reading these comments, it's worrying.....I wonder what's going on if you are driving the car with less than 20% in the drive battery. Even with 20% , in London you could drive for hours in heavy traffic and only do 20 miles and the main battery charge not go down much, but would the 12v just be depleting lower and lower, and maybe the car would just pack up in the middle of the road, or the car not start up if you turned it off briefly??
Hi James, been watching your videos since the leaf days. Now watching the Ioniq ones. As son picking up an N this week. Hope you are ok, as haven't seen any more content for a long while now.
In late September, wet conditions, heating and demist on most of the time, getting 4.4 miles / kWh. Switch Eco off when cruising. Don't bother with B mode. Keep epedal off too. Set pro pilot to 60mph and draft behind a truck. 😂
2 things if you connect something to a battery it’s always positive before negative. If you look on the 12v monitor app and click the date where you see jan to jan it will give you a monthly calendar and all good days for battery will be blue and all bad days will have a red dot.
We have an EV6 and this happens all the time. That's a bit of an odd one. If your car is at 18%, when you start charging once it hits 21% it should start charging the 12v, no? What we found is that the 12v starts to drain while the car is plugged in. Assume you set to charge at 11pm. If you come home at 6pm you plug the car in but charging isn't starting for 5 hours. During those 5 hours the12v runs down. The same after, ie the car stops charging at 6am but you don't unplug the cables until 11am. For 5 hours, the 12v is running down. The rick seems to be relatively short bursts of charging followed by short drives. Or buy a Tesla
Hey all, I just today had my first encounter with the Ioniq 5 12V battery issue. >>>TRACTION BATTERY WAS AT 72% WHEN THIS HAPPENED.<<< 2022 Ioniq 5, 15590 miles, at Hyundai about a month ago for service recall and I did the infotainment SW update also a month ago rather than wait more days for them to get to it. After consulting RU-vid to find out WTF was going on (shades of Prius which I also own one of) I checked the 12V and sure enough it is dead and won't hold a charge. I called Hyundai to see if it was covered under warranty. Sure, just get the car towed to Hyundai and wait what, 2-3 days or so for them to swap the battery and say "yep it's dead". Today is a Thursday so I might have it back in 5 days. Or go to the auto shop, buy a new battery for $200, and back on the road in 3 hours including lunch break. I use Bluelink now and then to check SOC and turn on the AC, not much else. And yes Bluelink is a terrible app, constantly telling me the car is unlocked when it is sitting in the garage FFS. I will be ordering one of the nifty battery monitor gadgets since now I don't trust Hyundai to get this right.
If you owned a company called Onis Ltd. This Hyundai would be the perfect car for you with it's registration plate. But good to see a Brit doing more detailed car stuff.
I have two Bolts, but recognize the weakness of our 12 Volt batteries. Both of my bolts have a small "plug in" battery volt monitor, which I always keep an eye on. I'll replace the 12 volts at the drop of a hat when their capacities start showing degradation. I've already replaced each once.
You saved me today brother. And you saved a meal I was bringing to a nursing mother in need and her 4 other children. Words cannot express my thanks adequately
Great review of the HUD system, can’t wait until I get my Ionic 5 sometime this December. Until then I’ll keep watching your channel for anymore nuggets of information about this amazing vehicle
That's exactly what I'm doing right now but was curious if there was any other easier way..idk using the tiny black little hair bands though, it's still easier and faster than filling 100 of these individually
It would be logical to drop the change threshold to 12.3V when the HV battery is below 20% and only stop charging the 12V when it's below 5%. I think if they allowed the 12V too charge permanently it could damage the high voltage battery which is about 300x more expensive to replace.
Mine died dyed today. My battery was at 23% when I parked it yesterday evening, and today it was all dead. Truly feels as the limit for when it stops charging the 12v should be a fair amount lower as it has very little effect on the main battery. In such a modern car I think you should be able to set that limit yourself even.
Interesting that at "100%" you had 38.4 kWh capacity. That's more than I expected (36kWh). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fOdTTZ3MTBM.htmlsi=eyUnyTvdWLFL4BKa&t=168
Hi James - just an update on things - over the past three months I've had one of the automatic air vents on the front of the IONIQ 5 replaced because it became intermittent and recently the Integrated Charge Control Unit which is a large liquid cooled box of electronics under the back seat replaced as the car stopped charging on AC. My car is a March 22 RWD so probably made late 2021. The dealer said they had done a few ICCUs. How has yours been?
I'd read that there was a problem with the bluelink app accessing the car way too many times, the car would wake up then go back to sleep repeatedly causing the 12v battery drain
Waste of money! I bought three of these BM2 Battery Voltage Monitors so that I can check on my batteries of my stored/parked vehicles as well as my daily driver in my garage and driveway and I wanted to be able to check them while sitting in my home. The range is about 12 feet as I have to be at my front door to get a signal. This is typical of Bluetooth devices where they state 10 meters or 33 feet but in unobstructed view, but not under a hood shrouded in metal. If I need to be that close to a vehicle, I might as well pop the hood and take a DMM meter to the battery.
Was this video made before the brake light fix? The reason I ask, is a couple days ago on the hightway I saw another Ioniq 5 (probably an SEL) had two levels of brake light brightness, one low and other full on. I was wondering if the low brake light level was activated by regen and then the full brake light either by manual braking or the sensors sensing the car's deceleration? Thoughts?
hmm its works but its still jitterung movin around whitout my head moving and it has some jump flassh all the time fells like a bit of jitter and it jumps to the center evrytime for a split second Edit 1: i got the flashing away now its really woobly but i think its not the comfig its the cam resolution only 720 P HD 2MP i think i need one whit more pixels that its more accurate Edit 2: on movin my cam from top on monitor to under it so the cam dosnt need to look down oj me anymore it look from bootum up to my faceit works really finne it just woobbles 1 cm around
Thanks for taking the trouble to video your experiment. Very worthwhile! I'd expect that, if in Auto Mode there's a slow vehicle close ahead which requires your car to slow down, the lights would illuminate automatically. Mine is a 2024 Ioniq 5, which I really like.
