Its not too bad a machine, its obviously well into the budget bracket. I first bought it as an ex demo and it would not start an arc, I found that the spark gap in the machine was maladjusted, little things like that. I bought an SIP pedal with it and it just fell apart as well as the potentiometer getting a bit intermittent. It transformed the machine having that ssc pedal on there, R tech use them. Just by being able to start a comfortable steady and consistent arc. Its worth bearing in mind this machine does not have variable ac frequency control. The documentation can be a bit misleading, you can only vary the actual pulse freq in DC mode. I think it switches the ac near mains frequency or equal too. It will be fine for most things. Looking back now I would have probably just gone and spent £1700 on an R tech ac/dc 200 plus amp package and not spent all the time messing around trying to find its issues (was ex demo and out of the packaging bear in mind). I have Jasic machines too - very good as a budget machine you can use and abuse every day. I have some R tech stuff, very good also. On the whole its been ok I have built and repaired many things with it earned its money back. I have even used it to repair an Ali body on a truck. I was going to post a short or just a post with the wiring for the pedal mod, will happily do that. Thanks for you comment.
@@Jacob-64 No problem, there is so much choice. Up to you of course....for me it was budget at the time I didn't want to spend more than £1500 as I taught myself with the help of RU-vid! Personally now I often think what I would buy. All I say is tig welders seem to be a particularly dodgey thing to buy second hand on ebay! There will probably be good ones but Id do collection and get them to show it working. I bought a couple and had to send them back. If you can get a working one of these for like £500 ish would probably do. If your budget is over £1k I would probably get an R tech, their packages are quite inclusive of what you need. I have several bits of R tech gear no real trouble always honoured warranty. Bear in mind theres no real support for this sip machine anymore. You can phone R tech up in the day and get help easily. First of all I used my lid that I would use for mig and arc. Get a decent lid if you dont already have one. When you're Ali tig the arc will reflect off of what you are welding all sorts of funny stuff it will drive the filter crazy and become unusable. Decent helmets have delay and sensitivity settings to tune it all out. I personally use a speedglas 9100, esab sentinel are good too. I started out with a speedglas 9002 and with a filter upgrade it worked very well. I just prefer a adflo lid these days when Im welding and cutting inside something nasty 😂. All a minefield of different stuff at different prices😂 Hopefully not preaching anything you don't already know. You are welcome to the advice.
Hi sorry for the late reply I had to translate to realise what your comment meant. The door control unit of each door appears to be fitted in each door on W169 chassis. Oi, desculpe pela resposta tardia, tive que traduzir para perceber o que seu comentário significava. A unidade de controle de porta de cada porta parece estar instalada em cada porta no chassi W169. If you go online you will find various Mercedes WIS manual uploads which will allow you to test the wiring around the module and find the problem. Se você ficar on-line, encontrará vários uploads manuais da Mercedes WIS que permitirão testar a fiação ao redor do módulo e encontrar o problema.
I've got one in my WRX gc8, it would tell you if you would get a knock event, then i pulled timing in the area i got knock and got rid of it. its a good safety device, even when youre getting on it hard after a while how did you like it
Ah good yeah! Yeah its certainly good safety device. Fitted one on my focus cossie as well just for a bit more reassurance when on it especially with the age of the engine management and the tune was quite crude when I first got it. If anything the map is quite reserved and fuel heavy on that though.
I did this as a hobby mechanic and it was quite demanding. Even finding the area and identifying the pulleys takes time (this video is one of the best at showing things, thanks). Before you can even begin you have to remove plastic skid panels from the underside of the car. In my case the old belt was broken and shredded and I spent the best part of an hour removing belt fragments that were jammed under pulleys. After much trial-and-error (lasting an hour in my case) I agree totally with the order of fitting the new belt suggested in the video: use a long hook to get it over the upper water pump pulley first and then around the crank (lower front large pulley). Next, use a long hook to continue from the top of the water pump pulley over the next plastic guide wheel (above the tensioner and to the front of the car) Note that this smooth plastic pulley has the ribbed side of the belt against it (the only one of the three plastic pulleys that don't contact the belt back). To weave the belt over the tensioner and other plastic wheels you need a long hook. Getting the belt around the alternator and onto the cooling pump pulley is difficult, the belt is very tight and the tensioner spring very strong. You need a very long 15mm spanner (in my case I cut one from some steel flat bar but only got one or two goes before having to regrind it as the tension is very strong and wore the mild-steel bar quickly). Some videos show two spanners being hooked together to get the length (a 15mm ring spanner over the tension wheel bolt with a ring spanner looped over its open end and used as a lever). I was able to get that method working but only after trying many spanner combinations as spanners are not flat and there is hardly any room to allow for tools. It would probably be quicker to go and buy a long spanner. I was able, with some physical effort, to get the belt finally seated on the curved rim of the cooling pump pulley before levering it over onto the ribbed seat bit-by-bit, carefully with a blunt screwdriver. In my case this was barely the start of the job as, despite checking the pulleys all rotated freely (except the crank) and that things appeared to be lined up, I hadn't spotted the reason why the belt had failed in the first place. The spindle of my tensioner wheel had ground its seat oval. In my case the result was instant shredding of the new belt when I started the car. I was able, eventually, to replace the tensioner assembly but it took me several days and involved removing two engine mount bolts from inside the wheel arches. Also, unhook the exhaust or it hinders the 2 or 3 inches of space made available by lowering the engine. When the cooling pump is removed, the cast housing it, that also wraps around the alternator, is the part that carries the tensioner and guide pulleys and is what I needed to replace. The replacement assembly is attached to the engine by three (male) torx-head bolts (E12 I think) far towards the front where the water pump is, jammed between the engine and the car floor. Even with the engine lowered you cannot see the bolts but have to feel for them (or rather for the recesses they are sunk in, except for one at the side of the casting which is just visible), armed with knowledge of their position got by inspecting the replacement part. It took at least an hour to remove the three bolts. Space is so limited, there is little arc to turn the socket wrench and the close thread need hundreds (not an exaggeration) of short twists to remove (a friction-less ratchet would have helped as I often had to remove the socket and re-seat it as the ratchet would tighten the amount I had just loosened otherwise). after a while they loosen enough that you can just about turn about 1/10 of a turn with fingertips pressed on the socket with the wrench removed. It is tedious and difficult. Putting the new part back on was slightly easier than removing it, mostly because your hands have learnt where the bolts are. It can be done but expect to take time and patience.
Excellent input thanks! Although you say you are a hobby mechanic - your write up suggests to me you are an engineer of some sort?! Very detailed explanations how the task is to be achieved etc.
@@BurnedOutGarage That's very kind praise, thank you. I have a science background but not engineering. I studied every youTube video I could find before starting, often pausing tiny segments that caught important views (I wish I'd found this one before, it is definitely the clearest). I wanted to share my experience as I'd scanned all the comments of other videos hoping someone had done a similar job and had some information that would help. It might help someone. Thanks again, and keep up the good work!
@@batchrocketproject4720 Jeeeeeeeeeesus man, thanks for the long comment. The video is not of the best quality - it would be much better to film ALONG the work being done - not after it - and the guy literally points at the tensioner bolt while messing up the camera - but I guess this is the level of work that does not allow for filming AND doing at the same time. Will have to do this appararently tedious work now here in Latvia, have about 3-4 hours, will try lifting the car with drive-on ramps out in the yard - it's dark and wet and cold - mid February - but heck, I've replaced belt on the other car in the family - an Audi C6 3,0 diesel - about twenty times, incl. on the road - and this cannot be much more complicated. That would just be impossible. Can it? Well. About to find out. Thanks once again for the input, greetings from Latvia.
@@JurisKankalis main tip is finding a long 15mm spanner for the tensioner, it has to be quite straight too. If you get stuck try using a hammer to bend the spanner ring so that it's parallel to the handle, and hook two together if not long enough. It's definitely doable in an afternoon with patience. I'll be interested to hear how it goes if you get chance to report back. Good luck!
For getting an old belt off or a new belt fully on, as to not damage the belt. This autodoc video showed that one of the pulleys can be manipulated with a wrench to lessen the tension temporarily as you apply torque to it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M-8YSYID4Ag.html
Do you think you could use an arduino rigged to an oem knock sensor to do something similar ? All I want is a red light to say when to back off the throttle 😂🤷♂️ ive currently got an arduino running as a knock-off AFR guage. With the voltage displayed as 1 for rich and 0 for lean. (Not the best solution but cheap as chips lol )
We are currently messing around with a knock shield from bylund automotive. It does require some messing about with as you can set filtering, sensitivity etc. Theres example code out there to get you near. We've only messed about with it on the bench so far. Its a fairly neat solution.
@@BurnedOutGarage ah Ive just looked up their videos, looks like they also sell a wideband AFR kit which is interesting ! I may have a look into this, I think its great they are using Arduino as it gives you a cheap data logging ability too! Cant wait to drive down the road on full boost while only being focused on my laptop 🤷♂️🙂
I do yeah I certainly would if you're flowing anything other than exhaust gas. I use a mini wire wheel on a die grinder I may try a ball type hone as well. Goggles and a mask are a must. When you mix it right you'll see it paste and it will apply easily this seams to yield the best results for protecting the back side of the weld. The remnants do bake on there, some will flake off.
As subaru sills go, those are not very rusty - the inner sill can be in absolute bits too & the ends can be destroyed across to the main chassis - regarding drilling the spot welds on the sill seam, they're unusually weak & can be run off with an air-hammer without drilling usually - saves a good bit of time. :-)
Nice little set up! Is it possible to get a wiring diagram of how you have wired the pedal in to the welder. I’m wanting to do this to the tig welder at work which happens to be the same as this. Cheers
Think I’ve got some photos somewhere. I could do another video? I used an ssc pedal like the ones that come with R tech welders. It has a Lincoln type amphenol plug and a 10k potentiometer inside. You could used a higher resistance potentiometer off of another machine which in theory would give you the same range with greater control (in theory). Don’t use a lower resistance. The standard pot value of this machine is 10k.
@@BurnedOutGarage yes another video would be good!! I’m fed up with just using the button in the torch. The welder it’s self isn’t that bad but I’d like the pedal to improve it further
Just replaced A Classed belt found your video very helpful ..I however did it on my drive .. I did use a "windbag" to jam the belt in place on water pump and top jockey wheel which saved the belt keeping slipping off..thanks H
Nice, I like how calm you are no rush easy to understand, very under rated video mate. I will be using your video to do my busted arse rusty scoob 😆just waiting on a welder.
Thanks mate. Yeah I like plan out what I’m going to do with this sort of stuff. I’ve seam sealed and under sealed the underneath of the repair. The filler and the paint are on now I just need to post another video . Good luck with yours!
@@G4Disco Yep, I’d recommend getting some HT stud bar to adjust it out to a better height. In all honesty I plan to do more fab on the car and may go floor mounted in the future.
@@RealDixonPeter Yeah totally I thought it could have been made a bit easier I know multiribs last quite a while these days. I’ve fitted a lot of b’stard v belts on front wheel drive cars but I couldn’t believe how trapped this one was.
Did you ever end up modifying it to be used as a knock input to the ecu as you discuss in the description? like you said, i just want to be able to see knock, or no knock in the ecu logging!
Hi, yes I soldered a wire onto the output I shown in the video. I then drilled a small hole in the back of the cylindrical body that the pcb fits into then I threaded the wire through the back. This goes to an input on the ecu which I can use for logging. My car had a knock sensor and probably the crudest of control from the factory but the stand alone plug and play ecu doesn’t have any kind of knock control or windowing based upon the standard set up. Technically I could set it up to retard the timing upon a knock event but more of an ultimate safety measure really than something you could run with. Just seeing an event (or not) in the logging is beneficial I think so a load site could be identified. Windowing gives so much more especially as it can dynamically adjust whilst driving to even nail down the cylinder that’s causing it nearly every turbo car made now would have it standard I suspect, probably NA as well. Not easy to integrate retrospectively. I’d probably go for a completely separate ecu solution to get that like a link fury or something. I think using this Knocklink could be handy as it operates away from the ecu so a stand alone monitor if you like.
Hi it’s a good tool for generic knock monitoring we have sampled knock and it works. The only thing is that obviously using this stand alone you won’t have knock monitoring that is inherently added to many factory ecu designs of today. My suggestion for its use? Use it if you don’t have any decent knock monitoring built in. Or use it as a secondary check like a watch keeper. For it’s simplicity and ease of fitment I think it’s good.
