It is made by an Italian company GT line. Purchase there for less. But not all fancy colors are available. The small boxes inside (GT Line) are very poor quality. Rest is fine.
Just wanted to say thank you very much for this and also the rear pad and rotor video. Both are well-shot, extremely helpful, step-by-step walk throughs. I watched each a few times and then replaced the front and rear pads and rotors on my 2014 Cayenne Diesel this weekend. All four corners took me about 6 hours, but I did spend a bit of time cleaning.
Just wanted to say thank you very much for this and also the front pad and rotor video. Both are well-shot, extremely helpful, step-by-step walk throughs. I watched each a few times and then replaced the front and rear pads and rotors on my 2014 Cayenne Diesel this weekend. All four corners took me about 6 hours, but I did spend a bit of time cleaning.
Awesome video, as others say, gives me confidence...I can do my jeep fine, but was afraid of this one...just want to make sure for the obd procedure...on my launch creader, I have 53 Brake Button, the basic setting 04, then I have Start Lining Change Mode...is that the option i have to 'Adjust' (my menu option) ? to 'open' the brakes, then adjust again to 'close' them ?
A superb demonstration, instructor, bar none. listen, it takes a person with your sense of understanding to even own an Audi... it is some kind of a computerized vehicle..for sure... thanks ... peace
Hello mister , thank you for this nice video . Just one question please : do you know the size of the Torx you used to remote the brake caliper ? Is it T100 ? Or more ? Many thanks for your support Nice to see other video
Thank you very much for such a well detailed video. On my 2012 cayenne diesel, i noticed that when the engine is off, key is out and as soon as i open the door, the electronic handbrake light automatically comes on. If the electronic handbrake is meant to be off during the work, how do i prevent this from happening? Also, im only looking to change my pads so whether the handbrake is on or off, does it make a difference?
Hi, really good tutorial this thankyou! Can i just ask at 11:00 on the shoe adjustment screw. if it was adjusted when the old disc was removed, would i need to wind it fully in for the new disc or adjust so that the shoes just brush against the new disc when rotated by hand? Also some articles online suggest an 'air gap' hope you can clear some of my confusion on this! Many thanks!
Thank you for your video, you do a great job. Is there anything special to do to remove the brake pad wear sensors? I cannot get those to detach regardless of what I do.
Any idea if there is a consumer friendly scan tool or way to do the brake reset like you did at the end if we don't have an Autel tool? Could it be done with VCDS or a less expensive diagnostic tool?
Thank you your post! I have one this job today, some findings to share as an addition. 1. The metal element holding the break line have to be removed in order to save the metal breakline to be stressed and breaked during the pad replacement. Good care should be taken to position the caliper in a way to help the breakline not to be bended or loaded. The caliper should rest its own body supporting by a bucket or something else, not hanging on the breakline. To access the screw of the breakline holding plate the wheel should be turned to the leftmost position on the right wheel, rightmost position on the left wheel. Even in this position the screw access is not easy, the metal breakline is blocking the screw head access. Congrats for the engineer who did this "precise" job. I was able to release the screw by an L shape ingus spanner. 2. The break wear sensor connector. If you do the job first time it could take 10 minute to figure out how to disconnect the connector. The male and female connector body held by the same break line holding metal plate. I was not able to remove the break wear sensor connector just pulling down in one hand and pushing the release tab with a screwdriver. What worked for me is one screwdriver is used to elevate the release tab and a second screwdriver used to push the EDGE of the break wear sensor connector body DOWN. These tiny things can be a nightmare I swear. 3. Break dust. I used a white FFP3 mask during this job. When the caliper's guide pins were cleaned and the pad tension cross element mating surfaces were cleaned a lot of dust were generated. During the job I did not realized it but when I removed the mask at the end I was really surprised: the mask was grey from white. When I checked my face in the mirror a black "makeup" line were at the edge of the mask. Guys, please wear mask doing this job, you wiil breath a lot of dust in if not. It is not good for the health for sure. 4. After a testdrive check the metal breakline connections for possible leakage and check again the wheel screws toque. 5. This is one of the job it is worth doing financially. Evenf If you buying quality discs and pads like Brembo or Zimmermann still spent a fraction of the cost comparing to the Porsche dealer price of thi job. Have a safe drive for you all.
You don't earn much, but if you had an affiliate link in your description for parts, materials, and tools, I would've used your links to buy them. It's a way to help pay you back for a great video. It's also nice to have one place to find everything needed for the job. One small point, it would be a nice reminder to point out that level control has to be turned off before lifting the wheel off the ground.
Thank you for posting this video and walking me through the whole process. I went back and watched this at least 3-4 times as I am working on the job. Hope to see more 958 maintenance videos from you.
I was told those carbon ceramic discs lasts practically the life of the car and to simply replace the Ceramic pads. Replacing the discs are a bank breaking affair at $4400 per disc (over $16000 total).
I normally REMOVE the FLEECE BLANKET around these filters (4h0129620m). It doesn't seem to do much except introduce extra flow resistance and cause the filter to clog sooner. Anything that can get through the fleece can also get through the paper pleats and vice versa. Like the STUPID oil strainer buried under the charge and IC pipes it seems like an unnecessary bit of German engineering doing more harm than good.
Yep, I changed my front and rear brake pads only. Bled brake lines and flushed old brake fluid out. And my brakes would work only had to push them twice to get brake pedal. I thought why aren’t my calibers closer than they are when I apply brake pedal.so I have to activate my abs to get them to close
Is there anything we should do or know about the electric parking brake? Does it need adjusted or can anything be damaged by replacing the pads and rotors? I had this happen on my 2017 Kia Sorento SXL which had an be electronic parking brake. It needed to be 'set' after installing the rotors.
Great video... Could you tell me please ? I need to replace the rear discs and pads on a Touareg 2016 R line. They are all the same bits and I was surprised that you haven't had to code the pad sensors in... Do you not need to do that ? If you do how do I ? Again, great video
I could really do with the part number for your bumper cover (the one you removed over the top of the bumper to gain access to the front bolts of the braces) and the brackets that the body clips fastened into 👍
