Thank you your post! I have one this job today, some findings to share as an addition. 1. The metal element holding the break line have to be removed in order to save the metal breakline to be stressed and breaked during the pad replacement. Good care should be taken to position the caliper in a way to help the breakline not to be bended or loaded. The caliper should rest its own body supporting by a bucket or something else, not hanging on the breakline. To access the screw of the breakline holding plate the wheel should be turned to the leftmost position on the right wheel, rightmost position on the left wheel. Even in this position the screw access is not easy, the metal breakline is blocking the screw head access. Congrats for the engineer who did this "precise" job. I was able to release the screw by an L shape ingus spanner. 2. The break wear sensor connector. If you do the job first time it could take 10 minute to figure out how to disconnect the connector. The male and female connector body held by the same break line holding metal plate. I was not able to remove the break wear sensor connector just pulling down in one hand and pushing the release tab with a screwdriver. What worked for me is one screwdriver is used to elevate the release tab and a second screwdriver used to push the EDGE of the break wear sensor connector body DOWN. These tiny things can be a nightmare I swear. 3. Break dust. I used a white FFP3 mask during this job. When the caliper's guide pins were cleaned and the pad tension cross element mating surfaces were cleaned a lot of dust were generated. During the job I did not realized it but when I removed the mask at the end I was really surprised: the mask was grey from white. When I checked my face in the mirror a black "makeup" line were at the edge of the mask. Guys, please wear mask doing this job, you wiil breath a lot of dust in if not. It is not good for the health for sure. 4. After a testdrive check the metal breakline connections for possible leakage and check again the wheel screws toque. 5. This is one of the job it is worth doing financially. Evenf If you buying quality discs and pads like Brembo or Zimmermann still spent a fraction of the cost comparing to the Porsche dealer price of thi job. Have a safe drive for you all.
Just wanted to say thank you very much for this and also the rear pad and rotor video. Both are well-shot, extremely helpful, step-by-step walk throughs. I watched each a few times and then replaced the front and rear pads and rotors on my 2014 Cayenne Diesel this weekend. All four corners took me about 6 hours, but I did spend a bit of time cleaning.
Thanks, my man. This was a huge help for my first Porsche brake job. Your video was very helpful. I’ve done my share of brake jobs but there are definitely some nuances on this car that would have taken me some time to figure out. I loved the 5 gallon bucket idea, worked perfectly. And knowing what brackets to unbolt saved me a bunch of times. Cheers!
Far and away the best step by step instructions I've seen anywhere. And it's the little things like loosening the brake line and how to support the caliper, etc. I am on the hunt for your video on the rear brakes as soon as I hit send on this. Awesome and thank you.
Like the rear brake pad & rotor replacement, your video is awesome again! I already replaced front pads twice but watching this video is still very helpful to refresh memories and procedures. Thank you very much!!!
The front caliper bolts at T60 stretch bolts. You're going to have to torque them to 104 ft/lbs so get the 1/2" driven T60. The stretch bolts are $8.00 each from Pelican: WHT-004-572-OEM. The rear caliper bolts are M14 triple square. About $3 each from Sunset Porsche: WHT-004-57. If you don't have access to a bucket on which to set the caliper you can use these caliper pins: VW tool T10439. Not sure I'd scrape the caliper and spray it with brake cleaner--would be more concerned about damaging the paint and allowing rust to form.
Please please next time you do this job USE axel stands, you are working under a 2ton vehicle without anything safety if the jack fails. I lost a really good friend because he did the same as you. It’s totally irresponsible to show people how to do this job like this, people assume because it’s on RU-vid it’s the correct way to do it. But thanks for a very informative video. Also it’s worth pointing out that if you have air suspension you need to put it in jacking mode, otherwise you can damage the height sensors.
Agree with both above posts. I'm a bit late to the party but I would not put the new rotor on until the caliper was cleaned and ready. Avoid getting new rotor dirty and also it's not in your way to complete the pad installation. He could have mentioned the caliper bolts are 14mm XZN head.
Looking to buy new rotors for my 2014. Black calipers as is yours. Are your new rotors Porsche original or aftermarket? If they are aftermarket what brand rotors did you buy and where? Great and informative video for us weekend warriors. Greatings from the Dominican Republic!
Hello mister , thank you for this nice video . Just one question please : do you know the size of the Torx you used to remote the brake caliper ? Is it T100 ? Or more ? Many thanks for your support Nice to see other video
Thanks for the informative video. I'm looking to perform the same job next week for my 958.2. Towards the end of the video when you were tightening the caliper bolts, did you say the torque was set at 180 Nm on your torque wrench? Are you sure that's the correct force? For this model, the torque should be set to 140 Nm according to the shop manual.
Great video! Just wear the mask! Brake dust is dangerous. It's a irritant which does not leave the lung tissue. I love working on cars for a long lifetime. So, wear the mask!
Hi thank you for video & Explain,,, but I have 1 notice on you the safety is Very important,, u used wire brush why u don't wear safety glass while u wear working,,, only this my point to u,,, best regard to you,,, mazin saudia Arabia,,
2.3 tonnes actually 😉 Seriously though, as said a few times before, I'm happy doing it myself for a brake job, but if you're not then definitely use a stand. Obviously I wouldn't lie under it!
@@dhansens Thank you your post! It seems you have enough awareness on the risks of this job. But please consider that you have some responsibility to share this content. Always assume the worst: a weekend beginner mehanic on the first job ever will copy you without knowing the risks. It is worth to tell and write on the video about the risks and how to eliminate them. In this case I suggest to mention the necessity of the second jackstand as a safety support in case of the jack seal is giving up. Break dust is not a joke, this job requires a good mask if you do a serious cleaning.
It was a new car to me at the time and I was planning to take it to the alps so decided to just replace the lot - and of course wanted to share how to do it! 🙂
