Your shop is beautiful. Ours 55x75 ft shop used to look like it. My spouse and I built it (55x75 ft) He was a master carpenter and knew ever tool, every piece of wood and building material and could build furniture or total houses. He has a display of his father's antique tools, but now cannot remember what they are called...for saw he says "cutting object" for hammer he may say, "hitting object", and shovel..."digging object." Anyway, we have tons of planes, saws, etc. Do you think ebay is the best place to put them for sale, or do you know of another place? Many people would just scrap them since they are not electric. They could bring joy to people who value them.
@@deawallace3584 thank you for sharing. This is a complicated concern shared by many. As I get older I also have issues with remembering simple words. Like merchant. It can be frustrating for myself as well as others. As far as liquidating a shop full of tools, that c as n as l as I be a daunting task. Several things must go into a decision. Time being a number one consideration. eBay can be slow and there are fees to consider. It is a good way to make sure you get a true value for your tools and is also a good source for evaluating, using their already sold option to determine going prices. There is a good alternative if you wishing for a more speedy option. On Facebook is a page and group called CIHI (CAN I HAVE IT). Many in this group are knowledgeable and generally fair and honest. They have an auction every weekend starting in Friday and ending at 10 PM on Sundays. There are no fees and you must be able to accept PayPal payments. There are no limits on the amount of pieces you can sell but it is important to have Eva lot of pictures and to be honest about any flaws you may have in a tool. They only allow tools that are non electric and supplies, or books on or about woodworking. They are a helpful group and the admins are honest good people. I am always glad to help give advise and often buy for my collection. There are also people that buy collections for resale and can liquidate tools quickly but will pay under retail to give them a profit margin. I hope this helps you and would be glad to communicate more if I can be of help. Best of luck and be careful as some tools may not look as valuable as they really are.
@@ChetSpier Wish I had known about the books, I have donated many recently. I don't do fakebook, so would have to make an account, and someone told me it was hard to sell there if you have a new account cause buyers think you are a scammer. So, if picturing tools on CIHI, they would bid and send the payment thru paypal, then I would ship to them? Thanks for all that information.
@@deawallace3584 yes, that’s how it works and you can accept payment with the fee that gives the buyer assurances that you will remit carefully the tool. Buyer pays shipping seller pays “ goods and service “ fee.
@@deawallace3584 look up PayPal costs on live. I think it’s around 3% and some sellers give the option to the buyer by adding that cast to the buyer. Look at the auction listings this weekend and you can use them as a guide.
Looks like a great paper weight. I appreciate the makers effort and incorporated ideas. Everyone doesn’t take first place in any project. Thanks for sharing once again Chester.
That is an intrasting plane. Makes a lot of sense to have the chipbreaker attached to the cap as the leading edge of that needs to be in prety much the same place in relation to the sole of the plane no mater the depth of cut. As for the depth adjuster it looks like something that could evolve into a Noris style adjuster. Well as for the tote and knob if that was my plane and I had it as a user not a collector I would kjust make new ones to fit my hands.
It might help with the wobble on single rod if you got another rod that fits hole to use and flatten the top side where the bolts set and keep the original in case you want to sell as original later. On the wooden rail try gluing a board to the runner along the top to stop pivoting, you will want to slope or round the front of this top board.
I love my cool Record. NB: I made a round channel with a round rasp (and wax it to be very slippery ) at the exit of the shaving in order for the shavings to get out easily instead of accumulating and getting stuck.
The 043 is a fantastic little plane. As a tool accumulater, I try to justify tools by grouping them for specific tasks. The 278 and a 043 are my “small box” pair of rebate and plough planes. Truth is, they will accomplish much more than that. But, then I’d have to admit that I have way too much overlap in my tool accumulation.
Now that you have the Record original, you really need the Rapier copy to compare... I think it's just as good. And if you have the Rapier, you really need the Russian copy as well... Were they trying to destabilise the west, one groove at a time or just making good tools to sell for a few pounds of foreign exchange?😊
Thanks for your work explaining these features. I learned a great deal. Looking forward to getting a reference like you used for learning about all of mine.
Excellent review! I recently bought this pair of miniatures from Lee Valley and found some of the same issues. The fence on the shooting board I received also overhung the track. I trimmed it with the plane itself once I got the plane working. It would probably have been easier to do it with a chisel as Mr. Spier did. The little plane doesn't trim plywood very well. But it's OK. The handle is cute but useless. Worse than useless, actually. It just gets in the way. I removed it and wear a glove to reduce the discomfort of using the plane. I have very big hands and I just couldn't get the plane iron and Norris adjuster properly seated, so I use a small rubber band to hold the iron and adjuster together as a single unit and insert it that way. Then I snip the rubber band and tug it out. In order to let the plane iron move smoothly without hanging up, I had to gently file the grooves in the plane body and the edges of the ends of the mouth. Not a big deal if you're careful and have the right miniature files, but not something you'd expect to have to do with a new western plane. After tweaking, the set works well for shaving and trimming many, but not all, small workpieces. As Mr. Spier found, planing teak with this little tool is not going to be any fun. I also realized that I shouldn't expect it to perform well using the rapid back-and-forth motion we typically use with larger planes and shooting boards. It just doesn't have the mass for that. Instead, I've adopted a slower, more focused and more forceful pushing motion. It works much better. This is a charming little set. It's absolutely worth the price as a collector's item or as a gift for a woodworker to display on a shelf or mantel. It can also work well for a fairly narrow range of uses with small workpieces. For that, though, you should probably expect to do some careful preparation of both products.
@@corydriver7634 I tried to keep this simple as it was my first video in a while. I used similar techniques shown in this video on restoring a solid wood plane. Normally I would have shown more detail. I’ll be glad to respond to any questions you may have. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wztsIXYKUoE.htmlsi=yVjRemgILJSv_WHA
Hi Chester. Great video. I happen to have the newer model of the #97, equipped with the buttresses. Only problem it is missing the blade. Do you know where I could source the SW blade I require.
