You know there's four parts to this project. More than just this 1. check them out they might have more information. tell your friends. I no longer have the truck but miss it. enjoy
Was done correctly and never had an issue. Done this repair on multiple vehicles and was never any danger. Some people have same now how as mechanics. Just so happens I'm a mechanic too. Worked at GM for 10 years and been in automotive repair field for 30.
The do come with standard nuts from original & replacement parts come with Castle nuts. Generally the castle nuts are not as strong & the split pin will be a bit small. Its worth upgrading the split pin in many cases.
You definitely don't know the Midwest. Just because a bolt is rusty and completely seized, "you need a new car". The under body of your truck is immaculate compared to the one i will be tearing apart. Which i already know I'll be needing my torch. Anyways thanks for the info.
I probably meant how some people don't try and keep it clean. Northern states usually have more car wash places because of yearly salt buildup. You gotta clean it off or it will eat it. I owned a Fast Lube in Florida and the northern cars were scary with the amount of salt corrosion. How cars stay together up there is amazing. Good luck. Keep on trucking and oh yeah "Truck Gang"
Howdy, you're right,, there's nothing on the L.C.A on the Nissan's ! Just about to tackle the same job on a Nissan Navara D22 4x4 and I am looking for any "cheats" on the L.C.A Inner Rear Bush Removal. Did you replace that Bush in this ute?
The bushings came already installed in the LCA. One of the reasons I bought already complete. Only bushings I replaced are the sway bar link bushings. Have Fun
Why they stopped producing greasable ones! MULTIPLE REASONS lol you're talking auto industry! Costs, supply and demand and the other one not many know about- pollution and safety.. yup, monkeys over filling them and the excess dropping out- usually at points where the car stops in traffic! And over the early years of thousands of cars dropping globs of grease at the same spots,,, you get what at stop signs and intersections! Yup! Rainy days where fun! And then there was "and still is" the poluted water run off and epa damage! So it was a win win win win and no more grease nipples on joints.. except aftermarket etc... saved the car industries millions and earns the auto accessories industries millions! Thats why ;)
Part # RK620556 and RK620557. It wouldn't let me share it probably because it's from 2017. The 557 wouldn't open and there is only one left of the 556. I just put my vehicle specs into Amazon and looked for cheapest with best reviews. That was 4 vehicles ago for me. Good luck.
How do you remove the splined bolt that connects to the torsion bar? I already removed the torsion bar just need to remove the bolt so I can swap control arms
I have 3 videos for that Install. Hope it helped for something. I couldn't find videos for the install on 2wd anywhere at the time. Bought a Haynes manual which helped. Miss that truck. Good luck!
Hey, I’ve just done the same job, you didn’t need to remove the torsion bar and tensioner, simply adjust out all the torsion in the bar, then remove the 3 nuts at the wishbone end of the torsion bar end plate, this will then pry away from the wishbone giving access to the lower wishbone bush bolts, easy….except for one of my bush bolts was rusted in🤬
It seemed easier for me. I did unload torsion bar and it didn't seem to give me enough. Plus I wanted to reset tension for the new Shocks. I've since traded back to full size GMC and a Toyota Tacoma that doesn't have torsion bars. Good luck and keep Trucking.
They will definitely fail on you I've had one snap on me before. You get a small tear in that boot and road salt gets in it and you don't realize it's torn even though you wash your car really well that salt stays in there and it'll rust all the way through.
the torsion bolt at 1.52 how did you get it out? Im heated the area up, ive hit it witha hammer. Im lost at how i can remove it without cutting it at this point. Thank you
I'll be honest can't remember. If you're replacing the bottom control arm like I did then no. Just undo the bolts to arm and once free dis engage the CV axle from the hub then.
This is a 2x4, not a 4x4 with front drive! But you're right, the C.V's come out to do this job on the 4x4's. Just about to do a Nissan Navara D22 4x4 ;)
Como lo quito el perno de brazo de control inferior el de las estrías? Ya saque la barra de torsión y no sale no se desliza ya le di unos golpes y mi haci sale? Como le puedo hacer?
Hi dayneblue: How did you get the rear bolt out? the one holding the lower control arm that have the torsion splines? did you just hit it with a hammer from the front (with the nut on), towards the back? does it go out that way? that is the only bolt now that is left, then I can remove the entire lower control arm and continue with my replacement. Thanks,
@@miguelbeleno8567 got mine out a few days ago. Just remember to be careful with the threads (leave the nut to cover where you're hitting) and with the lower control arm only connected to those two bolts, not the hub carrier, lift up on the ball joint end and push down on the bolt end using jacks or stands or a helper. I had to use heat and a big sledgehammer to get it out and putting it back on I realized the weight of the lower control arm is holding the bolt that much more. When I do the passenger one I'll make a video but wanted to let you know that might make it easier to get it out.
Just spent 6hr fighting the lower control arm and the torsion bar trying to get it off. You are right there is nowhere that tells you to release the other end... Well you!! of course but I didn't find your video when I did a search.... Thanks, Yours is in pristine shape, Mine is rusted and I am afraid that the torsion arm lever and bolt won't loosen. I was looking at it and the head of the bolt looks like it is rusted completely away... But at least now I know what I am doing wrong... Thanks for taking the time..
Yeah it was in good shape. I miss it. Got rid of it for a GMC Sierra. Hope you have luck finding a new bolt. Try the dealership. Believe it or not sometimes they have the right stuff at reasonable prices.
dayneblue in loosening it today, it’s a 19 mm bolt, but the head was so rusted, then after a bunch of turns it stripped out and I had to take a file to it to shape it down to an 18 1/2 mm bolt, which I found in the 18 mm socket on to in order to get it loosened. A two week project is probably now going to be at least a four week one 😣
I'm not sure I understand the question. The videos are of the replacement of lower control arms. The bushings came already installed. Except the one on the rear of near the Torsion Bar.
you have to scribe the shaft location before you remove the parts , my lower control arm just broke next to the ball joint (9-30-2019 ) not a good thing very weak area .
Fiirst remove the torsion barthe Remove the ball joint stud and then You remove the two bolts. You'll have to remove the shock and sway bar links too. There's four video you'll find what you need in one of them.
@@shannondawg9924 back at the tensioner? Or the bolt on the swing arm? You have to remove the tensioner bar and the bolt is inside. Once you have the bar out the way put the nut on the bolt loose and tap it out. It is keyed/splined just like the bar
They're not connected. Take out the tensioner bar and you'll see the bolt head. Its splined just like the bar. But it will come out. Put the nut on it and just tap it out
Marvin Tabora he talking about “there’s no video on how to remove them” but this how you you remove them. Cuts and comes back so I got them removed. 😂😂😂😂 ok but how?
Thanks for the set of videos, helped me get through a lot of the issues you brought up. I have a northern truck so I ran into a lot more corrosion than you unfortunately. That rear bushing gave me a hard time, I'll have to replace it. Good work. Keep em coming in this truck!
Timothy Buda Thats the way they came off. There's no clearance issues that I see. I did the other side and corrected everything including the Torsion bars! Smooth ride and no wiggle squeaks like before.
So if you are seeing this after I’ve found this video I found a 8 inch 6ton bottle jack and placed in between to press the splined bolt keep in mind you might bend things! Pb blaster and a plumbers torch with mapp gas to help ease it up! Had to cut the lower control arm because rust made it impossible to remove the splined bolt from the lower control
You Can do just the Ball Joint. I'm actually doing the other side In the morning and going to fix the Pass side Torsion bars angle. I think it's just faster to replace the whole thing and it looks better. I'll post another Video of the other side Tomorrow. I got both the Arms complete on Amazon for 200$. Just Ball Joints are around 50$.
The lower control arm the left side where the torion bar attaches to. That bolt goes through the arm and the car frame. Is it all metal or is that a bushing it goes through.
Thanks for these videos, I ran into the same issue with no videos illustrating how to remove. I personally have a 00' 2WD frontier that appear to have the same lowers.
