The quick 6 is trash with the 6r80. Hate to say it but I’d bet you’ll burn up the aftermarket clutches too. My buddy swapped back to the T56 after all the quick6 bs.
I bought a 1995 explorer 4.0 xlt 4wh dr . Bought it 7 yrs ago from car lot runs great rides smooth few electrical issues interrior mechanical y , tuff truck strong 4.0 added K & N air filter
Sounds like maybe a couple silica packets are in order. Hell, they put those things in everything. I wonder how much they would help because those ccrm boxes aren't exactly a "sealed" unit.
It's a Circle-D converter part number - 11K-10H-34-1XS-4K-MD2 (+.080") . I updated it since this video and had a mechanical diode installed and it was tightened up a few hundred rpm.
@@98saleenit's not, mines rebuilt with raybestos gpz cluthes and I'm making maybe 300 wheel, and it does random crap, ( 98 cobra, cams, 3800 stall, 373s) running holley terminator x, I've bought the tps filter from usshift and wired it in, still does random drivability things, wot it works
I use to watch the Horsepower TV and similar shows and see how ultra clean the cars were. I would always think, “that’s fake, real life cars are never that clean”. Then I see your videos… lol
Did you put the Red Leds in your dash cluster ?? My 2007 has factory Green back lite in the cluster. I'm going with a dual Catback setup using Flowmaster .
really hard to get the tires on an AAM1150 to squeak with a 11.16 first gear over all ratio and a hypoid locker under a 2700 pound rear end... the one tire will slip on gravel from a stop just using the gas for about 4 feet then it locks and only gets a short 10km/hr wheel slip slamming into second gear from the 550lbft J-mod valve body on the 4R70E. good 300lbft... trying to force a S475 to do some work with it, but all its doing is preheating the intake air... mid mount turbo in front of the axle, thing gets 1100*f exhaust into the T6 frame, 600*f out the 4 inch straight pipe. guess their is another 600*f on the gas so if 1100 is 300lbft at 0psi that should put another 38% over that 300lbft, like 5psi and 400lbft... the drive line deceleration torque from 85km/hr to 45km/hr of stall torque was measured at 516lbft, so that would go up to 712lbft. 70 of the 700... but with 2700lb on the rear and the winter tires that grab everything it puts another 1500lb on the back end and that makes the tire slip noise screech very loud. like all those burnouts are nice used to have a 4 banger that would roll tire smoke up to 80km/hr with 110hp open diff crummy tires and a 2400lb total vehicle weight "1400lb front wheel drive with only 700lb on the slipping tire".
Nice clean swap Ryan. What year vehicle did that driveshaft come from? I’m doing a Coyote & 6R80 in a 91 Fox and bet it would work too? Was your swap for track purposes or just tired of manual shift? Will you hook up the paddle shift feature of the Quick 6?
The driveshaft is Dorman 946-374 is has about 3.5" of movement in the front u-joint to tube. It is an aftermarket shaft designed to fit 2011-2014 Mustang GT and replace the factory 2 piece with mid-bearing design. My swap is basically for track purposes. The paddle shifters can be used if you want in the factory cruise control butttons. For now I didn't hook them up. My past experience was the 6R shifts really quickly and you don't necessarily need to shift it manually. Good luck with your swap!
Great video, I see you had fun mounting the shifter as well. The Mach 1 is looking really nice and should be a good runner once the gearing is figured out. Maybe a 3.27
Awesome video man, and beautiful ford collection ya got goin there! Pretty sure I have the same problem. Was just wondering if it would be easier to access the door with the blower out? Not sure if it’s open enough to get your hand in from below… Also, did u find the filter restricting air flow at all? Was wondering if the blend door can fully open with the filter in place.
Never took the blower out, but you can try and see if it helps you. No restriction from the filter and yes the door fully opens and closes with the filter in place.
Thanks for the video! I have a question if you don't mind. I'm in the middle of doing this job. Have removed all the bolts from the oil pan but it won't budge. I'm nervous about levering it off because I don't want to bend the edge of the oil pan. I notice in your video you said "pop it loose", but I didn't see what you did to get it off. How did you get it to release?
@@98saleen it did, thanks. As soon as the seal was broken it came off real easy. Unfortunately my worst fears were realised when I found parts of a timing chain cassette in the oil pan 😒
great video and appreciated information. currently working on a customer car that came in with these same issues with a hotwire kit. being the first nag1 swap I've dealt with I decided to call hotwire with a couple questions about the workings of this system and to my surprise within the first minute or two on the phone I was being spoken down to in about the rudest and most arrogant manner I had ever heard anywhere in this industry's customer service. customer has given thousands to this company, but apparently not a dollar of that goes towards 3 minutes on the phone should you ever need some assistance.
Agreed. Chris @ Hotwire makes a really nice wiring kit that controls the engine just fine. But the tone ring won't fit in the tight confines of most vehicles and therefore causing problems. I recommend getting the Russell Drake kit as it works wonderfully and has better clearance. Good luck!
Thanks much for the video. I wonder does the door have to hang down the whole time? Because when i turn on the ac and change the dial from max to normal it doesn't move.
Woooooo man that Mach 1 is bad to the bone man. That burn out helped the grip on that pass. What a wild street car. Thought about taking it to a salt flat and seeing what she’s got? If I remember you’ve got a t56. 140 in 4th with two more gears, man that’s gotta be getting close to 200.
I’m newer to your channel I would recommend putting so Adjustable strange or Viking shocks and struts on that thing so you can get it to leave harder. Also was curious what are you running for a tire set up? Congrats on the PB by the way
@@98saleen I’m assuming you run 16s because of the stock rear brakes? To my knowledge when you run a larger rear wheel you loose side wall on the tire and your side wall is stiffer. I’ve always ran Mickey Thompson 28x10.5s on 15’s on my Mack one and I slip the clutch at like 4,600rpm and the tire always took the hit. I used the maximum Motorsport rear brake line kit they make to clearance the caliper to get a 15 on it . Just sharing info that works for me
@@savage_mach1 As a new subscriber, you haven't seen my other cars over the years including my 2003 Cobra I had when I purchased those wheel, needing the 16" to clear the brakes. I am well aware of the MM brake line kit. I've been drag racing for 35 years and have used many tire compounds from regular slicks to stiff sidewall to radials.
Dude, you are the Heat!!! I currently have the same issue with my 2008 on the driver side. Gives me the confidence to replace it myself!!! Many thanks for posting this vid!!! Rey
Great run!!! I think that you are leaving quite a bit of ET back on the starting line. I estimate that your car should easily pull high 1.4's to low 1.5's on the 60'. Your ET is a bit slow for the mph you are running. More practice on the launch should net you some serious ET reduction. I think the car is easily capable of mid nines. Looking forward to more vids.
I have a 98 eddie bauer edition and no idea where my drain plug is. I also want to find the cabin air filter but i don't know if they ever put one in this year.
@@98saleen I just followed u on IG. I was going to send u some current pics of my Explorer. I was going to order that same grill u have today. I'm currently waiting on my fog lights/molding, indash and pillars. I ordered early Monday morning but they still haven't shipped I'll never order from them again!
I've had good luck with Maximum Motorsports and Steeda arms. Either are great for daily driver to street/strip. For mostly race, I like Team-Z suspension parts like on my TTSaleen.
Im surprised those shocks work so good at the strip. I tried a bunch on my Mach 1 and I ended up with some Strange 10 ways. Looking forward to the next trip though
I've had cars in the past with wore out stock shocks actually 60-foot better than high dollar Viking shocks! LOL! So I run the soft stock Tokico shocks but have the air bag as a helper.
@@98saleen We definitely need to meet up. On Friday heading out to Ford Takeover. Finally at the point that things are almost squared away with the shop.
