I am a self taught, self employed software developer by day. By night, I have been known to iterate open pads with a jtagulator, probe a DUT with an oscilloscope or logic analyzer, compile and flash a flight controller or ESC, push code to an open source software project, make furniture in my workshop, model and 3D print various thingamajigs/widgets, and make the occasional QSO via CW or SSB.
I recently held a talk at the Chaos Communication Congress. Check it out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GxzYT3iL8kQ.html
Good question. I try to add some of my favorite music to each video. The intro is an analog synth rendition of Bach's Präludium in C Moll BWV 847: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YAI02i6imd0.html The rest is taken from Beethoven's 7th Symphony: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZTTVZv2hqmI.html
@@nuxnik Ohh it felt very familiar and I thought it's Toccata & Fugue by Bach, so I had close feeling :D The second one I am sure it was in some movie I watched but I am not sure in which one. Anyways thank you, good music! :D EDIT: Ohh, the second one was in movie "The Knowing". And many others of course, but that's where I know it from
@@PinkeySuavo You probably heard the Beethoven analog synth stuff in the movie "Clockwork Orange". The version I used is not from the movie, but it sounds similar. Great movie and a great sound track. 😀
@@nuxnik Hmm I saw this movie a long time ago so maybe :D But with this track I think about kind of end of world and it's what happened in The Knowing so I associate it more with that movie I think. Anyways good music!
I am working on building a 75mm version next. All the parts are on my bench, but I have been strapped for time the last few months. You could try it, but you'd probably need to make a few changes. The same carbon fiber frame is also available for 75mm. If you do build it, let us know how it turned out. If not, I'll eventually get around to making the video :D
Wow, now that was a great tip on removing motor plugs. I am only a year in and had not heard that little life hack yet and it's game changing... Thank you
I have recently been using my cheap grinder pen to smooth the ducts. Kind of like a mini Dremel tool - also good for removing solder mask on PCBs. It only take a few seconds to trim off the excess.
What a great take on a build! The most entertaining and well narrated vid I've seen. And a great soundtrack! Well done mate. Also liked and sub'd. Awesome.
I did somethibg alike but with the nanohawk. I got rid of the canopy and prop guards and just added new and stronger whoop guards and the newbeedrone canopy that Mr. Shutterbug suggested and some purple triblade props. Crashed and crashed no problem until my vtx went out. I couldnt stop staring at it bc of how cute it looked.
That depends on a few factors. Weather, line of sight (terrain), antennas and the amount of transmission power for both the VTX and the TX system. I have flown mine 2 km in one direction - 4km round trip. I could have flown farther but didn't want to risk losing it.
This is an excellent video! Thank you for all the detail and great explanation. I feel like I learned so much over the half hour spent watching. That's a sweet little build.
A few years ago, I bought three of the following screw sets (different head types and colors). They work great for tiny whoops: aliexpress.com/item/1005002927407705.html
Thanks for the comment and good question. This drone can go much farther than 1km. I only went 1km in my test video because my RX was acting up. With crossfire or ELRS, distance is not much of an issue, the real limiting factor is the VTX. An improvement could be using a better antenna.
Thanks for pointing that out. That is a mistake on my part. The props I used are Gemfan 1219 3 blade props. I am building another 75mm whoop in this style and I got them mixed up while I was editing. I'll update the video description and blog post. Thanks again! :D
Thanks for the comment. I built this drone almost 2 years ago. At that time, the total cost was 143,82€. You can find a parts list in my blog article about this build. Since then, the market has changed including the prices for the components, so I'm really not sure what it would cost today.
Thanks for the question and comment. The booster in this case, takes the nominal voltage of the battery (4.2V) and boosts it to 5V so that the VTX has enough power to run. In other words, the VTX requires at least 5V to function properly.
@@nuxnik interesting, now is this a normal procedure on most builds or just on your particular build in this video? Sorry for the question just never heard of the device before. Still a newbie
@@cold-frontin_penguin7902 no problem :) Using a booster circuit is necessary for this particular build because of the single cell 18650 battery. This build is unique and not a typical FPV drone.
Also, the LC filter in conjunction with the booster is there to smooth spikes in the current from the battery. Without the LC filter, the video signal would be choppy and would degrade the video quality.
@@jessedaniel1246 nice! It can definitely take a beating. I have been using it a lot to practice tricks that usually end in a hard nose dive. So far, it keeps on ticking.
Nice work. I really like the top mounted battery. Essentially that sandwiches the flight controller between the frame and the battery for even more protection.
Thanks for the comment. That's exactly what I was going for. I also think the quad flies a bit different due to the center of weight being more in the middle.
Thanks for the comment and good question. I removed the motor plugs to cut down on weight. Less weight improves performance and provides longer flight times.
Great Video!!! When I grow up I hope to be like you!!! lol For real tho man, that build looks sick!!! The video was entertaining and loved the old bangers. Bravo!!!
wow just in time I'm also working on a CF whoop. I like the choice of parts and the quality of this video is really great. Looking forward to see any updates and changes you make!! especially with weight reduction
I remember checking out your ChopSticks frame design a few yeas ago - nice! Thanks for the comment. I am already testing some new improvements to the prototype. Weight reduction is my main focus right now. As I mentioned in the video, I'm replacing the screws (two peek one steel for each motor), swapping out the flight controller (f4 diamond) and making do with a simple wire VTX antenna. This should shave off some weight. I am also designing new 3d printable whoops and will (attempt to) print them in PP. We'll see where this rabbit hole leads :)
Ahh awesome video and track as always and I'm guessing this is too late now but the switchback isn't correct. Really nice video and one take too! You still get a balloon 🎈
Thanks, haha yeah... I figured out the "switchback" later on that day but I couldn't submit a new video because I finished this one with 8 minutes left on the clock :D IGOW has made me a better pilot for sure. And thanks for the ballon 😎
Thanks for your comment. Good question, I never tried using the usb power option with the Mijia 4K. Instead I just used the battery. Which added some weight but worked fine. Unfortunately, I had a bad crash and destroyed my Mijia last year :(
@@bruno.eo. I only used it to record HD video onto the SDcard. For flying, I used a regular analog video FPV signal. However, I did mess around with the firmware of the camera little bit and found the following project, which offers some nice hacks and scripts for bluetooth and wifi and telnet: github.com/Theliel/Xiaomi-Mijia-4K
Great how-to! I was thinking of building this as a fun project, but realized I didn't know which remote and goggles would be compatible. Can you recommend some, of give guidance on how to tell what's compatible?
Sorry for the late reply. That is a difficult question. The world of goggles and transmitters is vast and there are many different options. If I were starting out, I would use an ELRS receiver/transmitter system. For goggles, it is a question of your budget. Good luck and let me know if you finish this project :D
hello nuxnik :) I am looking for exactly this. I would love to have a nano long range build that can also carry the insta 360 go, how are the things as for now ? Would u recommend this build to go for longer flight with a insta 360 go ? Do you see any alternatives to this ? Perhaps a ready to fly build like Rekon FPV Rekon3 Nano LR ? I would be really thankfull for any help
Thanks for the comment. The NLR is good for crusing. What constitutes "long range" is a topic of debate. For example, you could probably fly 3 - 5 kilometers from your starting point (with an insta360 go). This would be possible under the following conditions: 1. Using a TBS Crossfire or Express LRS system 2. Using a high quality 18650 battery. 3. Using a decent VTX and antenna (400 mW) or more 4. Activate RTH functionality 5. You were flying on a day where there was minimal/no wind. 5. Keep the drone line of sight with no obstacles in between. I have never flown the rekon 3, so unfortunately I don't have any advice concerning it. You might want to check out Unboxingexperience7's NLR modifications: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sCllwn2Z2VE.html Hope I could help :)
