#NanoLongRange 

@tripleheart first of all thank you for your comment, it made my day :) Frying the board was definitely frustrating however, it is part of the learning process. Now, I check at least three times before popping in the battery. I'm going to add an extra mosfet to prevent that mistake in the future. I checked out your channel and subscribed - very cool work you're doing with mini whoops!

Hey poor lady

@@nuxnik do you think i could buuild the same nano but with out fpv gear

@@AndrewMurphy8383 sure, you could fly it line of sight and not use a camera. However, it might be a lot to handle if you're an inexperienced pilot. Good luck and let us know if you build it :)

@@nuxnik i just wonder not my first drone plus would i need the lc filter then

Thank you very much. I glad you found my video helpful :D

Thank you for the kind words!

Thank you. I'm glad you enjoyed it :D

Thanks 👍

Thank you very much for your comment. I'm glad I could help :D

Thank you fro your comment :) It actually happened when I was showing someone the finished product. I was feeling rather proud of myself, put the battery in and was explaining how I built it, when I noticed the smoke... Epic fail :D

Thanks I appreciate it :)

Haha, thanks. Exactly, right? It was a strange situation. The funny thing is, his wife came a minute later, smiled at me and reluctantly sat down... I think pops embarrassed her XD

Hey Kyle, I from what I've seen on your channel, I don't think you'd have a problem building your own. ;) Looking forward to seeing the finished result (subbed).

@@nuxnik Thank you! I have a fun video coming up in a couple weeks on a project I've been working on for a few months, should be my highest quality video, you'll like it! I think I decided for a first outdoor quad, I'll stick with a kit so I can get a feel for flying, but if I am still with the hobby later on, I will come back to this!

@@kylefisher9250 Cool, I'll keep an eye out for your new video. One of my favorite things is do is watch people building things. Good luck! :D

@@nuxnik Thanks! I put up a teaser, it's a novelty 3D printer mod, you might like it!

Thanks, glad you liked it :) I will be uploading some more flight footage in soon.

Thank you for the comment, I'm glad I could help.

Thank you, glad it could help :)

Awesome! Good luck with your build!

Same here. Nice vid and attention to details. Love the terminal art.

@@user-xl1qb5yn1z Thanks for the comment! Let us know how your build turns out.

Thanks a ton :)

Hi Rolo, that's a good idea thanks for the tip. :)

Dankeschön :D

Thanks for the condolences, it was a pain to re-wire a new board. But made it all the more fun when it finally was in the air :D

Thanks for your comment. 1. I ended up putting a red label marker on the positive side of the battery tray, so it is easier to check the polarity of the battery. 2. Maybe. I have already made a few updates - antenna mast, smaller GPS module, a buzzer, frame redesign. 3. I'll weigh it when I get home and let you know. Thanks again :D

Danke für den Kommentar! Let us know how the HGLRC version flies :)

@@nuxnik Die Drohne ist endlich angekommen! Overall it looks very nice, it was packaged securely with foam around the arms. for a beginner it was not easy to set up but everything was documented. the build quality seems okay. the printed parts weren't that good, I already broke them in indoor testing lol. but that gave me a reason to reprint them. I haven't flew it with the new parts yet bcs I'm doing it right now. the flight performance seems not bad how it came out of the box but no real "long range" test yet.

@@squnxfisher9831 sehr schön :) Too bad the frame broke, but that is the advantage of a 3d printed drone - you can always print a new one. I have a few frames printed for my nanolongrange just in case I break one. Ich wünsche dir viel Erfolg bei den weiteren Tests!

Thanks for subscribing. Yes, that is something I have been thinking about. I will probably make a video about that and some other modifications I have made since releasing the build video. Thanks again :)

Thanks for the feedback! You're right, the JHEMUC FC can be powered without the help of the step-up converter, this is also the case with my build. However, the buck boost converter and the LC filter is meant for proper operation of the VTX. Most VTXs can't operate under 5V and the LC filter acts as a low pass filter, by cleaning up the noise from the battery in the video signal. Love your name, by the way XD

I have run my crazybeex down to 2.5v with an external vtx/dvr. The vtx didn't start cutting out until I dipped into 2.4v. I was only running 25mw, but my thoughts are that if I am running that low on battery I better be close to home. So 25mw should be enough and I can set up switches to raise/lower vtx power from my transmitter.

@@Tokyo_Dom Cool! Did you do that without the step up converter?

@@nuxnik no step up! I was super surprised myself. Eachine TriangleD vtx/dvr unit (set to 25mw, and recording the footage), off the 5v pad for the cam/vtx (disabled the onboard vtx since it wasn't working)

Thanks for your comment :) This small board is starting to become a favorite of mine. I have already used it in two other projects (the build videos are in progress).

@@nuxnik Its a great board, used to be cheaper on bgood. the new price has me looking at the betafpv 1s 12a board now. as this one seems to break when trying to turtle my toothpick.

Cool. I think I need to try some better 18650s to get some longer flight time. On average I can only fly ca. 12-15 mins.

Thank you. My main transmitter is an FrSky Qx7. Good luck with your build and let us know when you are finished!

Thanks for the comment! :D For the videos the warning voltage level was set too high (2.9V). I have since changed it to 2.7 and have less noise in my OSD. Haha, that's true, I haven't had a run-in like that in long time. Some people are just clueless when it comes to manners. :D

You can probably find the same receiver on aliexpress or banggood. There are many different types of receivers out there. I chose the TBS nano RX because I wanted to test the long range aspect of the drone. Express LRS is also a great alternative to TBS crossfire. Good luck with your build!

I would suggest Express LRS. Its the best of all worlds. Lowest price for receivers, longest range, and lowest latency. Still pretty new compared to the other options but it seems to be the future of TX/RX

Thank you! For a flysky remote, you will need a flysky receiver (the antennas are usually included). As far as a VTX goes, as long as it is small and compact, it should be fine. The Eachine Nano VTX I used in the video worked well for me. Good luck with your build!

@@nuxnik Thanks so much!

It's never too late to build your own ;) However, that's a good question. As you already said, it sounds like a power issue. Check the voltage with a multimeter on the pad that you are using to power the module. Although unlikely, it might have soldered it to a 3V pad. While you're at it probe around the FC with your multimeter your FC might be faulty. Good luck!

Danke für deinen Kommentar! ;) Hm, this is strange... But it could be many things. Maybe check the voltage with a multi-meter directly from the board to make sure enough power is getting through. Check the current draw in the OSD and make sure it is not abnormally high. Is your Buck-boost/LC filter outputting more than 5V? You might need to adjust it... You could also check that the ESC protocol is set to DSHOT600. Check to see if you have not throttled your motor KV in the PIDs section - check that the value is 100%. The board could also be defective. Good luck and let us know if you found a solution!

Glad you enjoyed it :)

Moin moin, und danke für deinen Kommentar! :) I'll try to answer all your questions in succession, in order to keep it organized: 1. Would you consider this a good and cheap beginners project? - One would think that a project like this is cheaper than a prebuilt drone or a drone kit. Unfortunately it isn't very cheap. The cost of the components are the most expensive part of any drone, and the 3D printed frame only makes up a fraction of the total cost. I broke down the costs in an article I wrote for this build. You can check it out here: nuxnik.com/nanolongrange-build-guide/ 2. I'm not mistaken we can fly drones up to 250 gr in the category OPEN - Yes, that is true. In Germany this drone will classify in the A1 OPEN category. I even think this drone might qualify as a toy: www.easa.europa.eu/domains/civil-drones-rpas/open-category-civil-drones 3. I would like to fly a racing copter which I can use to make proper high quality videos - This drone can probably carry an Insta360 Go camera at the most. Due the the limited punch supplied by the 18650, the weight it can carry is very limited. Speaking of Insta360 Go, I will probably do a short video in the future to see if it can carry it. 4. Should I build sth like the nano drone to practice flying and get some experience in this hobby or should I rather build a drone in the 200 - 250 gr weight class, which comes closer to a proper racing copter and wouldn't even cost that much more? - This is a complex question. I wouldn't recommend this project to anyone getting started in the RC hobby unless you have previous electronics experience and tools and all the extra FPV gear (goggles, transmitter, batteries, chargers, antennas etc.). This hobby is very immersive and can get rather expensive. If you are just starting, you should first get a transmitter, a flight simulator (Velocidrone or Liftoff) and a mini whoop for flying around the house. Happymodel Mobula6 or Moblite6 are good starter drones. Building a quadcopter is kind of like building a PC or a car. You select the components that best suit what you want to do. In RC there are many many categories, racing, freestyle, long range, LOS, FPV, copters, fix-wing etc. Each category has it's own way of doing things. It seems to me you are the type of person who likes to build stuff. In diesem Sinne, wünsche ich dir viel Erfolg. Ich habe deinen Kanal abonniert und ich freue mich auf dein erstes FPV-Video.

That is an excellent question. My interest in electronics started when I got my ham radio license as a teenager in the 90s. Studying for my ham radio license was a good introduction for me about basic electronics and radio theory. Nowadays, I am software developer but have always kept my roots in the hardware/electronics world. I would never call myself a guru in the subject. Becoming proficient in the field of electronics requires a learning mindset - you'll learn new things every day even after many years. In my humble opinion, learning basic electronics as a hobbyist should be more hands on than theoretical. In other words, get a good kit about basic electronics and learn some of the theory behind what is happening. At the same time you are learning the theory, build something from the kit. This will get you much farther than just reading about theory and not putting it into practice. Some of the Arduino starter kits are good places to start: www.amazon.com/EL-KIT-008-Project-Complete-Ultimate-TUTORIAL/dp/B01EWNUUUA They come complete with sensors, passive components and a manual. A kit like this will help you understand basic electronics and programming and how the two disciplines intertwine. The internet is a virtual treasure vault of information on how to get started - especially RU-vid. As far as soldering goes, get a soldering iron and practice - it is a learned skill that only gets better the more you do it. Getting into electronics and programming can be an absolute game changer. Technologically, we are at a very important turning point in human history. Having knowledge about how things work and why, will make you see the world in a different light. We live in exciting times. Stick with it! I wish you the best of luck!

Thank you for your comment, and good question. I have been using the hand drill in the video for years. It's a very handy little tool to have: www.amazon.com/XT-AUTO-Micro-Spiral-Manual/dp/B07GB6T7VB/

I haven't noticed any core temperature problems with the JEHMUC board. In fact, until now, I'm more than pleased with the overall performance of the FC.

It sounds like your FC/ESC is browning out because it is not getting enough current. You might want to try an 18650 with a better C rating. The capacitor is not necessary, however it is there to smooth and filter the current flow from the battery. This filters the noise that is transmitted through your video signal. I would recommend adding one, it will make the video in your goggles look much better. Good luck and keep us updated! :)

Thank you for your comment. Essentially, yes you should be able to follow my tutorial and get it to work. However, here are some differences in your case since your are using XM+: 1. XM+ uses SBUS which means you need to solder it to the pad labeled "S". The good news is, you won't need softserial because you will have an extra TX pad open (T1). This can be wired directly to your Eachine Nano VTX. 2. In my video for configuration I selected the SmartAudio protocol in the ports section. This is wrong, you should select "Tramp" 3. When configuring your receiver select SBUS / Frsky_X in the configuration tab I wish you success in your build! Check back with us when you're finished!

@@nuxnik thanks I'll try it after the motors comes...

Thanks! Yeah, some people are clueless. He probably thought - "these young kids with their flying machines and MTV have no respect". Haha. Good luck with your build, this is a fun one :D

Hello, I used a rubber band to mount it over the 18650. I have also designed a holder for it. If you have a 3d printer, you can download the files here and print it: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871771 The time for a GPS signal sync depends. Somewhere between 2-5 minutes.

Thank you! Sorry to hear it isn't working. This could be many things. Here is a list of things I would probably do to debug the problem: 1. Make sure the battery is fully charged 4.2V 2. Re-check all the wiring 3. In betaflight: check the motor direction 4. In betaflight check that the motors are correctly assigned 5. Make sure the propellers are mounted in the correct direction. 6. Make sure a screw isn't touching the motor coils. 7. In betaflight check that turtle mode isn't active by default. If all else fails, try re-flashing your board that way you can start with a fresh configuration and reconfigure the drone from zero. If that doesn't work, you might have a faulty board. Let us know if you fix the problem and I wish you luck!

@@nuxnik Thank you so much for your early reply and for your great tips. Some of them I didn't even think of. However it turned out to be the dumbest thing. I was powering the flight controller through the buck converter, and not directly from the battery. I got confused because the first diagram you showed with the buck and LC filter did not show the flight controller. But as you very well mention in 5:30, the battery "will be wired directly into the flight controller". My fault for not listening. And sure enough, I checked the board specifications and it definitely can take 1S 3.2V power. And the buck converter can only output a maximum of 1.3A. I haven't tried out the fix yet but I'm pretty confident it will work. Thank you so much!

@@soret Awesome! I'm glad you got it running.

Hi Roman, thanks for the comment. Sorry for the long wait, I didn't see your comment for some reason. I weighed my frame and it weighs exactly 15g. This weight can vary from build to build depending on the material and infill. I used PLA and 20% infill with the print. I hope that helps :)

Thanks for the comment. The farthest I have gotten is approximately 2 kilometers.

Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean a boost in flight performance without the weight of the camera and VTX? You could install iNav on it and send it out to fly missions autonomously without a camera I suppose.

Thanks and good question! The reason is that the FC doesn't always output 5v. That is what the boost converter is for. Also when the voltage drops the voltage booster keeps the vtx signal alive.

Thanks for the explanation. Regarding the burnt of the fc, did you put a diode to prevent it happens again? Because I would like to have some protection here but I fear that the drop of the voltage of the diode can be to high for the fc…

@@giuliomelacarne5439 a diode is not the correct component because of the voltage drop. You should use a mosfet instead. See this article: www.rs20.net/w/2013/02/using-mosfets-as-blocking-diodes-reverse-polarity-protection/ I'm glad you asked - I will make a video about all the nanolongrange updates I have made over the last 10 months. I have made quite a few of them :)

Nice, this is something that I didn't know... Can you also suggest a chip that do this job?

At home I have this P-Mosfet, IRF9540N. Reading the datasheet I think it should work… I’m right? :)

It not the first and won't be the last, unfortunately. Build, crash, repair, repeat :D

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it :)

Good question. The signal is good old analog. Usually you can tell a digital signal by the higher image quality. A digital VTX would probably be possible with the new digital VTXs on the market. However it might eat up too much current from the single battery and cause a brown out. It's worth a test though :)

Thanks for the comment and good question. Yes you can, and it should work. The only drawback is that you might not get the same longer flight times as the 1202.5 motors. Let us know how it turns out!

Thanks for the question and comment. The booster in this case, takes the nominal voltage of the battery (4.2V) and boosts it to 5V so that the VTX has enough power to run. In other words, the VTX requires at least 5V to function properly.

@@nuxnik interesting, now is this a normal procedure on most builds or just on your particular build in this video? Sorry for the question just never heard of the device before. Still a newbie

@@cold-frontin_penguin7902 no problem :) Using a booster circuit is necessary for this particular build because of the single cell 18650 battery. This build is unique and not a typical FPV drone.

Also, the LC filter in conjunction with the booster is there to smooth spikes in the current from the battery. Without the LC filter, the video signal would be choppy and would degrade the video quality.

@@nuxnik awesome, you're just a bundle of knowledge looking forward to your next videos. Thank you!

Thanks for the comment. I built this drone almost 2 years ago. At that time, the total cost was 143,82€. You can find a parts list in my blog article about this build. Since then, the market has changed including the prices for the components, so I'm really not sure what it would cost today.

Thank you for your comment! As a first drone, it is probably a good idea to build one from a kit. The Eachine tyro79 is a nice kit. You get all the necessary components except for the receiver and the batteries. However, before buying the kit, it is best to look into all the other stuff that is involved in getting into the hobby. A nice place to ask questions is intofpv.com Good luck!

@@nuxnik I've got a garage full of car tools (including for electrical) so i should be good on that end. Thank you for the suggesting and I look forward to the next video!

@@Ramirez4565 sounds like you're good to go! There's nothing more satisfying than flying a drone you built yourself. Good luck! :D

Thanks for the comment. Good question. I did set it, however I forgot to add that configuration part to the build video :D

That depends on a few factors. Weather, line of sight (terrain), antennas and the amount of transmission power for both the VTX and the TX system. I have flown mine 2 km in one direction - 4km round trip. I could have flown farther but didn't want to risk losing it.

Thanks for the comment. It was just part of the learning process :)