I've made battery terminals in the past using nickel alloy flat stock. Thanks for the tips. I am looking to replace the door to the battery compartment due to a leaking DuraCell battery.
Had an issue that required removing the battery door and wasn't sure how to go about disassembling the rubber and front of the body. Thanks to your video it's off and in my hand as we speak! Thanks so much for the tutorial, keep up the great work!! :D
This was very helpful. Mine are a Version II, so I may be able to get them cleaned and collimated by Canon or by a shop with experience with these IS models. Thanks for the tips, especially the secrets of cover removal and the use of CLR to get rid of the remnants of rust and corrosion. I use De-Oxit on corroded connectors, as well as CorrosionX, particularly on automotive connectors which are very sensitive to any increase in resistance and the corresponding drop in voltage(especially in low voltage control circuits), but using a spray may not be advisable with this type of electronics in a prevision optical device, unless first applied to a cotton swab, and then applied as you did with CLR. P.S. The battery holder looked like a standard 2-battery holder, and a replacement unit may be available from Amazon, Ebay, or Ali Baba. But I would take it to an electronics repair shop first, since they work with and repair broken connectors all the time. For those with questions about getting continued IS operation with one button click, and turning it off with a 2nd click, please check your owners manual for how your model is supposed to operate -.download one from Canon or elsewhere if you don't have a printed copy of the manual that was shipped with it when first purchased. My type II 12 x 36 only operate when the button is depressed.
Fantastic review.. however the battery cover metal piece broke/came off .. where can I get a new battery cover…? I fixed the battery cover, removed the rubber casing.. battery wires are in good shape but the IS won’t turn on with fresh batteries..
Ebay sells the battery covers for the Canon Binos. The center lock mechanism on my battery cover just broke and now the IS won't work even if I hold it down tight so must make some elec connection once locked.
Hee Haw is one of my all time favorite shows and this video shows they were real people and it was a family atmosphere. For all the Hee Haw Cast that have passed, may they Rest in Peace. For those still with us, thanks for the years of laughter!
This is constructive criticism That video was so one-sided not even funny did you get a reference from the front yard of the signal range and compare that to betzaida center of your backyard and then up to the meter what was the exact frequency range it was on and how many let's call it Millie W is it out putting also when you say a lot of data no and it doesn't redundantly send the signal from what it gets and sends it back out that would be so much information overload and that's not how they work it will do that when it is basically setting up Amex Network the further out it goes so that way the signal can get back to the grid faster in the city environment now they're not really talking to each other except for a Howdy Doody every so often it only acts as a repeater when another one says I can't reach the grid can you please forward my message and it gets a reply back saying I sent it and they received it it doesn't send it to every terminal it will move to another one if that one has problems too That the power grid and everybody fit explain Smart Meters very well for smart thermostats and I'm not talking about the Android kind I'm talking about the power company supplied ones If you understand how electricity is produced and how it goes down the grid I suggest you watch a RU-vid video on that with that being said if you use a little common sense when the power Generating Station it's not running at 100% capacity all the time and it in fact has to be adjusted from let's say 1% to 100% output on demand when everyone gets home and turns on the air conditioner or a heat pump whatever stove at night that are electric it has to ramp up production from before that load request came in from everybody and has to do it very fast because the power line cannot have a voltage sag because that can actually trip off distribution lines and it can't be too much power that too much power on the line Back in the day when it first started we didn't have high power consuming items or a huge increase in load and they could watch the meters and sensors at the station and they would have enough time to ramp up power or slow the generator down as we've evolved in a very short amount of time on the grid we have come to create huge swings in demand and the generator stations are getting that data fast enough even through the New Age Technology computers to ramp up Etc because there's so much on the line that Etc blah blah blah your smart meter transmission says hey I was at a low load now I'm at a high load and that RF frequency gets the station faster even over the line if it has to versus the Generating Station have to wait for a power said to start and then ramp-up generating capacity in that short amount of time can cause a grid failure So a smart meters actually something we want to have and no it's not affecting your received capability that would be on your antenna probably being right next to the power meter i mean mean come on... so in a way think about it this way you and all your neighbors have a garden hose hooked up to a central water pump and that pump has to keep a constant volume of pressure and water without blowing up one of the garden hoses you need to explain that And in fact they've gone further which I'm okay with it as long as they install it properly which my electric company didn't furnaces have crappy Transformers in them and underpowered the line switching and everything when it was on AC there was a Hydra on that little Transformer and it would essentially voltage sag and cause the thermostat to reset which caused short cycling and in the thermostat you could allow the power company when it was under extreme load your smart thermostat when the grid as under extreme load change change your temperature to take a little bit less load off the power grid so that way you don't have like a brownout like in California or elsewhere where there was such a high demand on the power grid that it just shut down that's why they had rolling blackouts say from 68 to 70 if they had the smart thermostat and smart that would never happen again I could go on and on but I almost think I'm talking to a wall people don't think anything through or use any effort to figure something out it's just I don't like it Okay as a ham radio operator and into signal analysis since I was a wee boy and understanding technology in-depth and even the power grid
these smart meters are often a source of QRM for the amateurs on all bands (in my place where i lived, Kyiv Ukraine, works for all post-soviet countries I GUESS)
Wtf the old Motorola next telephone's work on this band When they're in their direct talk mode which doesn't require a cell Carrier It's digital it works on the same band as these things it seems like And also the frequency hop just like you say So I don't know how they can have these 2 things working in the same band
PS...🤢 As I mentioned, I do love CLR myself, but just a warning about a dumb move that I did! { I am 99% sure it was with CLR) I added bleach to it one time and I created this toxic fog☠️ which was brutal! It irritated my throat, eyes etc...it really freaked me out. I had to air out my whole kitchen/dining room. Like I said it was long ago and I am not 100% positive if it was with CLR ... So if anyone can confirm this, I would appreciate it. Bottom Line & Lesson Learned: Always Read The Instructions & Warnings When Dealing With any Chemicals! Thanks again for your video👍😉🇨🇦
CLR is AWESOME!!! My family and I have used it for years and it works wonders, so thanks for the advice on the terminals...I will definitely be doing it this way now. And I never thought much in regards to the copper top issue...until you mentioned it, and YES, you are sooo right about that! Thanks for that tidbit as well.👍😉🇨🇦
Thank you for posting this! I had some CLR in the cabinet, and some old games that I was ready to throw away. This method is amazing - fast, easy, and actually worked!
Thank you very much for the video. Sharing your personal experience make this information more valuable. I am a physician and I love the outdoors and will use your method.
Trying to fix a toy that had the copper top batteries 😡 for almost 10 years. The battery pack is in really bad shape 🥺 Will come back to report after I try the CLR! 🤞🏻
Trying to blanket the entire country...yep and they have. 900-930 Mhz is mostly gone these days. Never heard of one that uses 2.4 Ghz. The mesh is interesting, tons of small packets on narrow bandwidth over about 902 - 927 Mhz and then big bursts over that entire band every minute or so. Appears to be low power.
Thanks for the great video. Good info but, many times the leak has run onto important electronic circuits and has ruined them beyond just cleaning. You will never have to deal with the mess again if you use The Centurion Shield. You can be proactive and STOP your electronics from being ruined. Please check out the website www.thecenturionshield.com. and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I9hi38erpsI.html
Hi, thanks very much for making this video. I had mould growing on the inside of my front (objective) lenses and didn't know how to get inside and clean them until I saw your piece. Fifteen minutes and they're perfect again! Cheers Neil
I recommend using Lithium (non-rechargeable) batteries such as GP Lithium in your valuable kit. The battery compartment in my $1200 Fujinon TechnoStabi binos got ruined using Duracell Alkalines that leaked. The lithium type are more expensive but due to the chemistry they don't have the inevitable leaking problem that all alkalines do once they go flat. You can leave 'em in without worry. Thanks for the video, maybe this will help me find to find a way in to my Fujinons to fix the broken linkage (I dropped them!).
my 15x50 IS binoculars are fine (ok, the rubber coating is going sticky..) but your video reminded me not to trash a $1000 pair of binoculars by leaving old batteries in there so thanks for that! Your effort to post the video is much appreciated.
