I appreciate this channel, I have shot and cast for muzzleloaders for a while but your videos helped me take the plunge and try it for some of my old warhorses too
Very nice shooting. I do like running cast boolits through my surplus rifles, inexpensive and so much fun with pretty decent accuracy. Good luck at the match.
The reason for it being meatier is not necessarily because people will use "Stronger" Loads. It is because the pressures generated by 45 ACP are significantly higher than that of a 45 Colt. Starting Pressures on a 45 Colt 7-9 Thousand CUP, for 700-950 FPS. (Hodgdon reloading Data) 45 ACP pressures are in the 11-13 Thousand CUP for the same bullet weight and speed. (Hodgdon Reloading Data). That is why their are only 5 Rounds per cylinder vs 6 for 45 Colt. But For a small pistol that thing got some kick to it.....
Back in the day, (30+) yeas ago when shooting NRA High Power we would have nostalgia shoots once a month, there was a group of people that shot 03's, 03A3's, Crag rifles and P17's. almost all those guys shot cast bullets for 200 yard SF, RF out to the 300 yard stage of HF Prone, the would shoot ether the M-2 Ball round or the 173 Gr special Ball round at 500 yards. There is nothing that a Jacketed bullet will give you in the way of accuracy out to 300 if you did your due diligences and found the right powder combination and size bullet diameter that fit your barrel. anyway, It's nice that people are rediscovering this. Good video, Peace - Dave
I haven't shot one of these across the course with cast bullets, but in our Highpower league we shoot a lot of reduced target matches (100 and 200 yard matches) and the past few years I've been using almost exclusively an 03A3 with cast bullets. It's quite a sense of achievement when you are able to best some of the guys with scoped ARs with an old iron sighted bolt gun and home-made bullets!
@@johnzx6r There is an advantage, reduced recoil and sight recovery. I'm at the age were my eyes have gone fuzzy, with reading glasses I can still see the front sight, however, I get a Halo effect when defining the bull, it's like looking at a circle with nothing in the middle. other wise I would shoot High Power once again. I still can shoot pretty well at the range, however, I can't do rapid fire, there isn't enough time for my eyes to recover between shots. So, pursue shooting service rifle, get good at it, have that 'burning desire' motivating you to discipline yourself, better your own score and don't let negativity get in between your ears when somehow you grouped some outside the black, (Score it and forget it). anyway, I like your series on Old school service rifle match shooting with the .30's, It is really hard to do. keep the great content going dude - Peace - Dave
Sir, thanks for all your videos! Helped a lot! What about ROA with unmentionables? Your channel definitely lacks it. As for stocked c&b - just avoid to save your face 😂
There are a few things I could learn from you. Chiefly to use my words wisely, and stay on point. Today I want off on a rant, that even after some editing is nearly a half hour. Mountain man
I have a Traditions pistol that I built from a kit, and the 'brass' components actually appear to be a phosphor bronze alloy. It still looks the same as brass, but it is a lot harder and quite difficult to bend. I have heard about some people trying to adjust the shape of Pietta brass grip frames and being unable to get them to bend, so I bet Pietta are using a phosphor bronze too. if that's the case, I would have no qualms about using normal loads in one, even in the .44 version.
I would say about the durability of a brass frame is more important pick a .36 caliber or smaller and don’t use to much powder and if you use a felt wad between the powder and the lead you can’t overload the powder as easily. And get a set of feeler gauges from the automotive parts store to check for gap between the cylinder and the forcing cone if you can see the gap between grows. But that depends on is the cylinder backed by the brass frame or the base pin and is the recoil of the cylinder get stopped by the frame. Now if it getting stopped by the base pin then the pin is getting stop by the wedge in the barrel and no deformation should happen in the frame. And one more thing what kind of brass is it? Alpha - beta brass is harder and stronger and is worked hot alpha has higher zinc so it’s lighter in color than beta. Beta is stronger but is worked hot and is more of a casting metal. Now remember more copper the softer the brass is. Now I will say stay away from brass .44 caliber frames because of the powder load.
These pistols work best with Remington or CCI #10 caps. The #11 caps are a wee bit longer and they don’t fit snug on the short #10 nipple. Other folks have squeezed the #11 caps to snug them up but find that they may still fall off or get blown off on either side of the round being fired due to the loose fit. Best fix is changing the #10 nipple to a #11. Some folks seldom have a problem with either but #10 is the best
You are correct, and I have been noticing - especially with these older replicas - that #10 caps seem to fit the best. I have some CCI#10, now, and use them exclusively with these older revolvers.
I received a reply back from pedersoli: Thank you for the inquiry. The recommendation for using steel shot with chrome lined barrels is to put the steel shot into a plastic wad, we recommend it for our side by side ML shotguns. I assume it is also valid for the shorter barrels of the Baker double barrels. I would increase of a little bit the powder load of the lead shot; 1 oz # 7 shot with 25 grs. (increase up to 28 grains)of fffg. and where permitted .614” round ball and .010” patch with 28 grs. of fffg. Best regards, Customer service So, these barrels are chrome lined? And they do recommend FFFG powder (pistol pyrodex) over FFG (rifle pyrodex)?
That is very confusing. The barrels on mine are certainly not chrome-lined. Mine is an older one, though, so maybe the newer ones ARE chrome-lined - I just don't know. The use of a modern shot cup in these will work - I've read of many people doing just that. I've never tried it ,myself, but I suppose using 3F will work. Modern shotgun shells are loaded with faster burning pistol powders, so I don't see why they wouldn't work here as well (especially in the short barreled Baker). Probably will not get as high a velocity using 3F as you would using a heavier charge of 2F.
I haven't been able to find anything that says not to use it, but since these bores aren't chrome lined or anything, I think that using a lot of steel shot through it might scratch the bores after a while.
@@johnzx6r OK, no problem... yeah I couldn't either. Is there anything else beside lead I could shoot for birdshot that is safe for the barrel? Like bismuth or something?
How would you unload this without firing it to reload it with a fresh load? How long can a load remain unfired in the chamber by your bed for homedefense til it must be reloaded with a fresh load.
You could probably keep it loaded for quite some time, especially if you live in a dry climate. I'd say a few months at least shouldn't be a problem. these can be unloaded without firing by pulling out the wads or projectiles with what they call a ball puller. It's basically a screw that attaches to the ramrod that you screw into the ball or wad and yank it out.
In your video you say you're using goex black powder, but in your description, you say pyrodex 2f. Could you confirm which? If you're using goex, what do you recommend as a load for 2f pyrodex?
Thank you for pointing that out - I made a mistake when I wrote that description. I am using Goex 2F powder in this. If you have Pyrodex, you can start with the same load, about 60 grains, and it should work fine.
Good job. You can extend the video a little by briefly keeping the viewer informed about the results of each shot. I understand the goal, but you're already ahead by not yapping and throwing in other distractions.
After seeing your video, I bought one and absolutely love it, EXCEPT I need the SLICKSHOT nipples. I even found some of the Speer Shot Capsules and will experiment with those for snake loads. Thanks
It depends. Sometimes a revolver shoots better one way over the other. You might have to experiment a little to see which way your revolver likes better.
@@thedoomslayer14 I don't know if they could be imported. But they are fairly easy to make yourself with some common tools and materials. The Duelist1954 RU-vid channel has an older video where he demonstrates how he makes his own wads.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YgNVPC2wmWI.htmlsi=3MGX6IrwvLQRArLw
@@johnzx6r I haven't found a store close by my podunk town that stocks any black powder arms. I got ticked off and ordered a colt style, I'm glad the handles are bigger. I like the remington style better, but if it's no fun to shoot, I don't want a paperweight. thanks for the reply
Cool little piece. You have to remember that during the Civil War, even with most cavalry being equipped with some sort of sidearm besides their sabres, cavalry engagements most often took place very up close and personal. This thing would have been hugely effective at the intended ranges. Not to mention very easy to load on horseback. I don't know much about these and their use, but as you said yourself, the barrels could have been slightly longer. But then again, a few more inches would probably not have made a significant difference in the shot pattern, but it may have made it more unwieldly and more difficult to load. In the end, it was probably rare for a cavalryman to be armed with one of these, but those who had it surely appreciated it immensely as a last resort.
Thanks John. Very informative. I hunted Black Bear in Canada with a 50 cal muzzleloader. When I shot a 300 pounder at 20 feet I reloaded a LOT faster than you did. LOL! Oh, and I see you went snow white early like me.
You can use jacketed loads with the kirst converter. I asked. Just use Winchester white box 230 grain. 830 fps average out of 5 inch barrel. You're well under that with such a short barrel .
Looks like a fairly well made revolver.When you get the trigger pull fixed, you should have a nice shooting gun.Great video!!! You might try some .380 round balls.
I think the Front sight was shaved for quick draw reasons. Smaller chance of it getting caught in the holster, so the owner most likely used it for shooting from the hip only. Ngl i think it looks better this way but it does effect the aiming badly. It reminds me of the Colt m1860 front sight, wich is more smooth looking than the big front sight of the SAA.
That's really a good group considering the distance i have a pietta ace as well it would shoot low to until i started filling my front sight down do a little at a time and you will see your groups rise continue filing until satisfied
I went to an estate sale because they had an M1 garand advertised with no price. My budget was $1200 for a decent garand. They had it at $1800, so I passed. They then offered me an m1917 for $600. I knew nothing about it, but a quick google search told me I couldn’t lose money at that price in the condition it was in. Turned out to be an all matching Winchester made in 2/18. It’s in pristine condition, I don’t think it’s been fired in 50 years. One of these days I’ll take it out and put a couple of rounds through it. I heard they’re awesome hunting rifles and still used in some parts of the world.
Im a convicted felon and from what Ive read I can legally possess a black powder firearm in Nevada. Am in the process of deciding which to buy. This one looks simple and effective at ten feet or so range. Perfect distance when out on the bike trail in case someone tries to mug me.
