This may be the answer I've been looking for. First...yes I am a musical. A drummer, guitar player, bassist, I play mandolin, lap steel, and sax. But those days are done. My talents are focused mostly towards painting these days. I recently bought a a set of bamboo handmade brushes (don't ask what I paid for them)...they are beautiful though. So I got to thinking. "I can make these with hard woods, burn art into them, finish them nicely and sell them. Only I have no idea where to start or how I'd make the handles. Brush factories use these pre cut handles and all kinds of specialty tools (which isn't special at all) So my question is... How small can that thing shape the wood down?
dude , so cool i'm always suffering recording myself, specially drums which i tend to fail more and it's way more mikes to track, comp, edit and mix, you're far from your desk, it solves a lot of things for everybody
true that if they don't cancel, they're not the same. The question is... are there better or worse Daws in this, or is not enough to make a difference?
Thanks man, one more great help. Reaper users always evaluate it at the pedestal. I will try to experiment it someday (specially after seeing your time correction script). I like most Cubase functions, this video is 5yr old now, Cubase 13 i guess improved, with Time warping allowing edit drum with phase coherence, its easier to use, and has infinite functions, the pitch correction for vocals is almost as good as Melodyne, but i find myself stuck in cubase just because i'm alread used to it, and i fear i will be stuck tryng to find everything in another daw lol
Man great videos! All of them! You manage to put a ton of great knownledge in few minutes, practical and also great theory behind. Blew my mind since the drum dial video, worth a billion likes and inscriptions! Have you heard about using de buffer of a guitar pedal to do the "reamp job"? I Saw a video, which this guy says mostly boss pedals have a buffer, which in bypass mode would do the job of matching impedance and balancing of the signal with the unbalanced pedal circuitry. Is it true? (I'm using a pair of FET Walrus Deep Six pedals as my stereo 1176's, besides Dimension C Stereo Analog Chorus, a Klon clone on the kick, I even use a Dyna comp as a crush mono parallel). There's infinite things worthing experimenting - so much fun mixing with pedals / using them while tracking balanced sources such as drum mikes or vocals, the issue is dealing with this mismatch, DI boxes and reamping lol Cheers from Brazil!
this is just proof of why standard protocols should always be built to be easily expandable instead of having to slowly and awkwardly migrate to a new standard when limitations become apparent decades later
You're such an immensely valuable source! I mean the amount of work that goes into these comparisons and dealing with constant staggered updates is crazy, which is why you're basically the only one to do it
I have used a Drum Dial for many years, but I must tell you I just got a Tune Bot and I love it. Basically does the same thing as a Drum Dial but also gives you the pitch and frequency which is more accurate than the Drum Dial. The only issue I have discovered is it doesn't do a very good job if your bearing edges are messed up, and if your bearing edges are bad you have a crap drum set that's never gonna sound good.
pro mark used to make a pair of sticks out of japanese white oak, the 777s. they still make a few kinds out of that wood but not the same profile i like. i work at a sawmill so i have pretty much an endless supply of wood and you don’t need much to make a pair so i’ve been setting aside oak butch and maple to make some when i finally get a lathe. i’m excited to mess around with different profiles. i’ve thought it would be cool to make a pair that’s just the two butt ends up the stick because a lot of the time i play with my sticks backwards anyway. i need to find some japanese white oak too to make some. one of the reasons i liked those pro marks so much was because of how heavy they are. playing hickory or whatever kind i’ve been using just isn’t the same. and i blow through a pit in like three songs. great video you mentioned some things i hadn’t thought of, the sanding with the grain is a good point all the other videos i’ve seen they just sanded it on the lathe
And when you get done making A Set of Sticks you can have a bbq chicken Drum Stick because after all that work you're going to be really hungry great Video
I make mine on a lathe 18" long out of Oak or maple and then brush on water based verathane diamond hard finish 3 coats light sanding in between coats,best sticks I've ever used and you couldn't tell the difference between mine and store bought except the length which is Ideal because it's the exact distance from the tip of my middle finger to my elbow,great for leverage and bounce,try it!
Loved the video. Accidentally came here for drum dial advice, left with a new tuning method. That stuff about tension bands made me try a more bumpy road up to a tension using a single key, then reset, tried your method with two keys and 1/8 turns. Played A and B to a friend. One 8 lug maple snare, one 10 lug brass snare. My friend said the B version (your tuning), at the SAME tension, sounded way better. Overtones more pleasing, pitch stronger, and the drums are happier at more tensions now too. Thanks for this explanation, I also read your article which has more in depth info plus is pretty funny at times.
I have played drums for over 40 years. I have seen hundreds of vids on tuning drums. This is the most informative and original view on tuning. There are so many unoriginal and lame channels on drums this was great we need to get you more exposure.
