Thank you. My cousin is a licensed locksmith. I sent him this video. Your the real deal. I have an old Halls safe we use. It's a classic looking safe. Classic safes are very interesting... Thank you again 🙏
Congratulations. There's no doubt your the real deal. My cousin will be impressed with your excellent videos. He's not a safe technician, at this time. God bless 🙏👌
Thanks for my request and question that you answered. One more question maybe you know about the Halls safe. There are two bolts on each caster. Before I take them off, do you know if the nut is secured? That is if I remove the bolt will I be able to reattach the caster without getting inside to line up the nut? I'm hoping they welded it in place so when I'm ready to put the bolt back on it will be an easy task. Thanks!
First to verify you have a straight tailpiece like mine turn handle and turn dial to see if the dials freezes up. That's a three wheel lock plus the drive wheel. So dial 4xL 3xR 2xL and 1x Right. Only the drive wheel has false gates not the other wheels.
@@johnwickpick8621 okay thanks I'm going to see it monday. The customer said the combo works but the handle just turns and stop but can't get door open. she said she turns the handle ccw. Said the handle turns a little more then normal before it stops she thinks
@mikefinley4713 If the handle turns after combo is dialed it's possible something is stuck in the door frame. Either give the door a hard pull or even hit the door near the open edge then pull on it. May need a heavy hand sledge to hit door with
@@johnwickpick8621 It feels like the bolt assembaly is moveing but it sounds like something might be loose. And the dial doesn't bind when I put and hold pressure on handle. can you give me the DP'S for the bolts so I can bunch them back to open. Please
I know there not easy, remember a long pointer helps with readings. You could start by parking all wheels then move only the drive wheel or last wheel around in other direction. If nothing park all wheels in different spot and try again.
Just getting into manipulation. Got a safe given to me because they forgot the combination. How do you choose the place to put your indicator stickers? How do you find the contact?
You place one sticker on dial ring at 12 o'clock the other sticker right on a contact point. You feel for the contacts that are light usually around 95 and 5, somewhere around there. There will be two contacts you wanna use the right contact.
Ok.. This is the last time I'll bother you. I got it open. :) You were right on with your drill hole coordinates.. I just didn't realize that I only needed to bend the cam a little bit.. I bent it so much that it popped the top pin's arm off of the cam (or maybe that arm was already popped off-- and that's why the safe was free); so the top pin was still locked and that's what was still holding it for me; ironically if it was standing upright, that top pin would have likely just fallen out and the door would have opened. :).. because there was nothing holding it in place. I cut a large hole in the bottom, there were a couple thin sheet shelves in the way/ I popped the rivets fairly easily and laid them down. I had my 9yr old son crawl inside and he pulled all the screws on both inside panels, with a drill.. I could only halfway crawl into the hole.. but it was enough to reach the mechanisms and unlatch everything. We learned a little/ my son had a blast and he'll probably remember this in the future. It's all fixable from here.. good times. :) thanks again
One last update- I guess that "pop" in the handle did slip it past the lock, because when I would yank on the door, it was loose and seemingly wanting to open.. So I stood over it and pulled up hard and the doors opened a good 1/2" or more.. I could get pry bars under the edge of the door.. but there was still something snagging and holding it.. I forgot to mention that the second door's handle had already been removed or broken.. So I'm thinking that second door was hanging it up. So we were wrenching on the 'good handle" (on the right door-- by the lock).. and unfortunately now that handle also twisted off. I didn't realize that it was brass and made to brake away or I would have been a little easier.. Honestly I think the previous owner had already half way twisted it off because it was facing in a weird direction and not the same as what I see in pictures.. So I think I'm going to go ahead and cut a big crawl hole in it.. It will be fun, if nothing else. Thanks again.. Cheers
(thanks again for the help) -- Your plan didn't work out for me (so far).. I drilled the hole and I can see the lever moving the cam.. If I press up on the handle I can just see the end of the cam start to pass the hole.. and I can tell that there's another layer behind it, stopping it from bending; So I think it must be reinforced to stop this kind of intrusion. Instead of bending, the edge of the cam chipped a piece off about the size of the end of my punch-- so it basically cut it like a die. It might be a hardened cam-- seems how it chipped/ cut and didn't bend. But like I said, I can see another piece of metal right behind the cam-- quite close to it, like it's there to reinforce it from bending. Maybe it's just the inside cover plate, but IDK.. It doesn't want to bend at all. Are you sure I should pull "UP" on the handle and not down? If I pull up, I'm right at the end of the cam.. I can even wedge a smaller punch past it-- that's how far the cam passes the hole. I built houses and metal buildings for over a decade, so I know how to use a tape and drill a hole, etc.. I'm fairly certain I landed the hole in the right place. If you have any other tips for me, I'd really be grateful. Do you think it could be a little extra security safe maybe? Should I just beat on it more? lol. Like I said, it wants to break or chip before it bends. ?? I started with a 1/4 hole, but everything I had kept bending, so I went to a 3/8 and then 1/2 hole.. I really only punched through the hardened plate with the 3/8.. but it's 1/2 from the top and through the concrete; So I can see pretty well with the flashlight, even when there's a smaller punch in the hole. A couple larger punches we have are tapered and they wedge into the hole.. but the handle can't move at all when I wedge them in there-- so they are obviously deep enough. I'm not sure what to do yet. I'm probably going to walk away from it for another week or so and try again next week end. I'll try any tips you give or I think I'll just cut a hole in the bottom like my original plan, and crawl inside and peak at the dials. (if I have to). Any more help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
@@johnwickpick8621 One last update- I guess that "pop" in the handle did slip it past the lock, because when I would yank on the door, it was loose and seemingly wanting to open.. So I stood over it and pulled up hard and the doors opened a good 1/2" or more.. I could get pry bars under the edge of the door.. but there was still something snagging and holding it.. I forgot to mention that the second door's handle had already been removed or broken.. So I'm thinking that second door was hanging it up. So we were wrenching on the 'good handle" (on the right door-- by the lock) a little too hard.. and unfortunately now that handle also twisted off. I didn't realize that it was brass and made to brake away or I would have been a little easier.. Honestly I think the previous owner had already half way twisted it off because it was facing in a weird direction and not the same as what I see in pictures.. So I think I'm going to go ahead and cut a big crawl hole in it.. It will be fun, if nothing else. Thanks again.. Cheers
So what do you do when you can't find a contact point? I might have a group 1 lock I guess.. It doesn't even have the 2nd line (for when you change the code). It only has the one center mark and nothing else. I don't know how to use any of these techniques without finding a contact point.
On some locks they do, but I would say for cost effective. Anything extra like building a mold with false gates probably costs more. And manipulation is difficult people trying to break in surly won't take the time to practice manipulation.
@@johnwickpick8621 Thank you very much for your reply. but due to translation difficulties, I was not quite able to understand it... did some manufacturers make false gates on the discs? but is it on expensive versions? and no one has tried to find a code for them? and just drilled?
I found where you can get that magnetic dial ring, the ring cost is $80.00 and the pointer is $20.00 Here is the email address: rcvanwinkle@hotmail.com. his name is Rich Van Winkle
thanks for the info. I tried to send him an email at the address you said but it keeps saying it;s no good. do you have another address ?@@johnwickpick8621
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WhT9YWEa-BQ.html&ab_channel=JasonBrant Just watched this and I am dying to see this movie. Is there a streaming Blu-ray version for Australia? Is Bluray region free? If this is you Mr Swetland? How did you not make other movies? What I saw in the JasonBrant video. Which they loved your movie, If this is really you? I must say it looked amazing and your skill showed on camera.
Nice technique, but sort of an incomplete explanation. You checked wheels 2 and 3 with left rotation and found a gate centered on 80, but did not explain how you figured out if 80 is on wheel 2 or 3. You either did some kind of high-low test or just took a guess that it was on wheel 3 (which is often correct I suppose). From there you figured out wheel 2 but didn't explain how. You must have set wheel 3 to 80 and then checked wheel 2 for another gate. When you found it, you brute force opened the safe.
No I didn't guess 80 was on wheel three. I park wheels 1 and 2 and just run 3 near 80 to see a change. If there is no change I'll park wheel 1 and 3 and just run wheel 2 near 80 and look for change to narrow it down. Not sure what you mean by brute force safe open, once you find two numbers of a three number combination you just run the last wheel until it opens You don't manipulate the last number.
Thanks for the reply. Wish you would make more videos! I suppose parking 1 and 2 and checking 80 on 3 is correct. I would have done the same thing or done a high test, by setting wheel 1 outside the checkpoint area, setting wheel 2 on 90 then wheel 3 on 80 and check the checkpoint. Then do the same thing but with wheel 2 on 80 and wheel 3 on 90. That will tell you which wheel has the gate at 80. Running the last wheel is the same as brute force.@@johnwickpick8621
I have parked the wheels on a safe like this in all ten positions and ran the drive wheel for each parked position with no luck. Are there any other suggestions ? I have possibly fond one gate but don't know which wheel its on.
@@johnwickpick8621I have an old Halls jewelry safe I am trying to open but I have the 5 digits. Could you tell me what the turning sequence would be? Thank you,
@hoosierbengal163 That should being a jewelers have four wheels and a driver which makes five. So the sequence would be 5 times Right to first number Then Left 4 times to next number. (every time you line that number up it counts as a turn) Them 3 times Right to next number. Then 2 times Left to number Then Right until the Dial comes to a Stop to Open.
@@johnwickpick8621 yes it is a jewelers safe. The front door is only 4 digits but inside is 5. The front door i just stop on the final number and it opens. So you are saying the inside lock will not be the same way. I have the final number as 53. Should I stop on 53 and be able to open? I greatly appreciate your help. I have been on this for hours
@@johnwickpick8621 correct it does bind up with handle pressure just as the front door does. So i would just stop on the final number and it should open. I still cant get it open. I know i have the correct combo so I must be doing something wrong in the turn sequence. It seems pretty straight forward so not sure what I could be missing?
I have this old Herring Hall Marvin safe with a HHM 100 # dial. The dial will lock up when pressure is applied to handle on all gates. Have watched your vid over and over,, have same set up as you in vid, but cannot find a gate that is lower. Have tried running all wheels left and also right. Do you have any suggestions on what I can try? Also do you think it will be a 4 number combination,,,4L,3R,2L,1R ?.
I have a safe from what a lockSmith told me is from the late 20s or early 30s. This locksmith wanted $550.00 to drill and open 6 years ago, still sitting in garage unopened. I've since seen your videos and I will try manipulation to open. This is a unique safe it is a HHM safe with a square door on bottom with s&g 90# dial, it has a Gary round jewel door with a 90# Gary dial top left which is a tl-15 from what I can find and a filing cabinet drawer top right. Have you ever come across something like this and is manipulative.
No that would be similar to a regular lock like on my gun safe video. Usually Diebold lock does not have a lever spring and that makes it even harder to do.
Once a number is found its easier to determine which one it is. Running all three wheels takes longer to find the right wheel once a number is found. Once I find a number on 2 or 3 I will only run that wheel alone a few numbers high and low of the number and see which wheel indicates better. If you park the wrong wheel you will be wasting anymore attempts. So that's why I run only 2 and 3 its a 50 50 chance of getting it right
