Tilton produces a wide range of driveline and brake components, in-cockpit controls and starter motors. Driveline components include clutches, flywheels, bellhousings and hydraulic release bearings. Brake components and in-cockpit controls include pedal assemblies, master cylinders, balance bars, proportioning valves and related accessories. Super Starters by Tilton were introduced in 1981 as the first high torque mini-starter for racing applications. Tilton products are primarily designed for racing use and can be found worldwide in nearly every form of racing. Tilton continues to expand its offerings to includes products for the high-performance street market.
I dont quite understand why hes lengthening the front mastercylimder pushrod. Is he doing that because he wants more front brake, or does it give it less front brake when lengthening it?
@@tabcobra The front MC is smaller than the rear MC, so the rod needs to move more to displace the same fluid as the rear. This is a good way to apply more braking to the front so you don't lock up the rears.
Hey if you’re using the 0.25in bar to measure the distance again at 1:45 you have to add it back to the final measurement number, or just never subtract it in the first place right?
I just got the ST-246 twin disc clutch installed on my FBO C6 Z06 but the shop is still working on the trans and getting MGW shifter also….hopefully done in a week or so. It will be weird driving it home through stop and go traffic. The car is aggressively cammed so there is surging plus this racing clutch will make it a challenge on the first day😅
The bearing was 1/16 from the teeth at first. I added another 16 to make it a total of 1/8 from the teeth upon installation. I checked the barring to make sure it was spinning free before bleeding the line. After several attempts with soft pressure, I finally applied firm pressure and the clutch finally disengaged. But now, the barring is sitting on the teeth with no pressure applied. I’ve just went and Removed transmission yesterday.
Hello I have a question when measuring air gap spacing on a t56 slave what do I do if both measurements are equal ?? as in (no air gap) adjusting slave out will make it tighter applying more pressure on throwout bearing..
Interesting about front brake lock up should occur before rear lock up. My impression is that when a wheel locks up, and the tire contact patch starts to slide on the pavement, that the resistance of the sliding wheel is less than than of a tire that is close to, but not over, the traction limit. So, if the front wheels lock up, and the rear wheels are close to locking up, the rears will provide more braking effort.
You're right. If the fronts lock up first, the car will remain fairly straight and is much easier to control. If you set it up the opposite way, it can cause the car to be tail happy under braking, but steering inputs still work. Some racers/sports/vehicles benefit from being able to rotate the car via braking, but I think it's mostly a personal taste/driving style thing.
@@Northern_ Both of these comments are the most idiotic things I've read in a long time. You would never, EVER set it up the opposite way - and you have the literal manufacturer of the system warning you not to for good reason. For the dummies. We're not talking about compression locking to chirp the wheels of a locked diff and rotate the car. We're talking about threshold brake locking the entire rear wheels before the front wheels. It isn't easier or harder to control. It is OUT OF control. You have ZERO control if the rear wheels are locked under braking. You are more than welcome to try and set a car up that way. Your eyes will widen as you realise why it isn't a good idea, as the car swings out from under you like a pendulum and might as well be like driving on ice.
Front locking up is safer than the rear. If the rear locks up it'll be more prone to spin under steering input or lateral g's. The fronts locking up just give you no steering or understeering which is safer. Unless you're trying to get lap times.
The bearings they use on these are absolute garbage. A large flat-faced bearing that you cannot source ANYWHERE except through Tilton, at $50 each. I wish I had never bought my Tilton 6000 series hydraulic release bearing. It's a beautiful piece of machining, but even a standard Ford Ranger oem replacement slave cylinder/throw-out bearing out-performs and outlasts this Tilton garbage.
I'm surprised with the amount of play you are leaving in. The brake balance bar can move left/right as you are cornering and setle in a diferent position for the next braking... any coments?
Its an inefficient design, hence why the price is low. Using a trunnion balance bar is the proper way. An ap racing trunnion assembly alone costs more than the whole tilton pedal box.
It's probably just put together losely for demonstration purposes... Turning one clevis while keeping the other (and the bar) fixed will solve the problem... Think there should be plastic washers bte the clevis' and the pedal aswell....
I love driving a manual transmission vehicle ! My 2003 Honda Element was systematically vandalized to the point where I could no longer fix it. Still waiting for financial restitution ! I problems with the vehicle started in 2010- and ended when I had to junk the car for parts in 2015 at Pandolfi's in Berlin, CT. I have been without a vehicle for almost six years, and what sickens me I'd the fact that I worked three low paying jobs to pay off the car, and while the vandalism was occuring I called the police and filed multiple reports with multiple agencies. No one did anything except watch me suffer ! I have to rent vehicles ?!? I have to pay for this , in addition, to fixing the damage done by others ? That is the State of Connecticut aka ..."Corrupticut" !!
Could this clutch be placed in a new Ford Bronco ? Tesla SUV ? Mercedes SUV ? I love driving a manual vehicle for multiple reasons ! (Driving in the snow, and overall handling of the vehicle )
