Polymerman Boatbuilding is a wooden boat building channel from the Minnesota in the United States of America. Bob Kody details the construction of the 24 foot mahogany runabout, Temptress, which is kitted by Dan Lee Boat Building in the UK. Rather that using a CNC machine, the boat bulkheads, gussets and frames are cut using the Shaper Origin tool.
Playlists: Wooden Boat Build: A series of videos documenting the modern cold molded wood boat building process. The boat is a wooden mahogany runabout "Temptress" kitted by Dan Lee Boat Building. The Shaper Origin CNC router is used to cut out the boat frames. @DanLeeBoatbuilding.
Cook's Animated is meant to be a fun cooking cartoon, made by kids. We hope that both kids and 'kids at heart' enjoy our recipes and taste tests.
Boat Builders Travels: A comical and entertaining documentation of one mans travel and visions of boat building in each location.
Hi, I see you are twisting the Japanese pulling saw, a little painful to watch ... lol. I should tell you not to force the saw, let the saw do the work, you shouldn't need to force it or even put weight into the sawing. Try with a 24TPI Tennon Saw, as that's saw's back-bone will force you to keep that saw straight, teaching you the proper technique for sawing. Doing that should help you learn to saw easily. Nice work BTW
I follow your project with great admiration, but I think that cutting the stringers is not a correct process. Anyway, I'm very excited about your work😊
Dan Lee is building his own full sized one now, he’ll catch up to you fairly soon as he’s using advanced techniques, might be worth pausing until he’s at the same place, posting vids of each stage you can pick up tips n tricks from a master boat builder.
@nickbrennan3925 In full disclosure, Dan has learned all he knows from me. Just joking. Dan and I message regularly. He is helping me at every stage. Dan also answers my and others’ questions on the Dan Lee Boatbuilding Forum. I do not have the equipment, skills or patience that Dan Lee has. I hope that my videos help other novices gain the courage to build Temptress. I do appreciate you watching.
Yes. I am too impatient and need to slow down…. Especially now that the details will impact the final look and finish of the boat. And the video is often playing at 4x real time speed.
@raynyhus2026 Thanks for the tips. I would like to learn more. I was planning to fill the gap with epoxy thickened with high density filler, which I believe is calcium carbonate. Is fiberglass a better filler? I haven’t used it researched it. Thanks, Bob
Tracksaw.. never thought of it. Genius. God , it would make life so much easier 😀 But please buy a low angle planer for final touches. You are seriously dancing with the devil with that electric planer.
@serdarbas8016 Serdar - I got the idea from your last video, where you did the same thing with a router. So thank you! I agree with you that the electric planer is too aggressive, and I need to learn to sharpen and use my hand plane.
Perhaps. My bigger mistake is taking off too much material. I did this in several places. And I don’t own an electric chain saw or many other tools for that matter.
You can buy the Shaper Dominos tape for ~$20/roll. One roll will cover 2-3 sheets of plywood. To save $, In Temptress Build 7, I placed a guide board with shaper tape, on which I never cut the dominoes. I just kept butting new board to the bottom of the taped board. I would guess that I spent <$200 on Shaper Tape to cut all of the frames and bulkheads.
If you use epoxi and let it cure, and don't clean off rhe amine blush (minimum) or sand, and then glue another layer or anything to it, it's gonna come off very easy. You only mentioned sanding after one layer epoxi once, and your pieces looked very shiny often. I hope you haven't skipped cleaning off rhe amine blich or sanding, especially that stringer you glued up in two steps, and you didn't show any sanding, which would be absolutely necessary on a piece like a stringer.
Very good point. For the coating process, I used West System Epoxy 207 Special Clear Hardener. It is formulated to not leave an amine blush, so it does not need washing or sanding. I agree that it is very shiny; not my favorite look. Anywhere that I have to add a second layer of export, when I used the 206 Hardener, I first sand the cured layer of epoxy.
@@Polymerman Pretty sure that's NOT how it's meant to be used. It's meant to require less sanding for finish work or layer under paint etc. You're using it as a base for glueing etc, which is not the same at all.
Thanks for sharing this with us; very neat project! I couldn't help but notice that you used a Shaper Origin rather than a table-style CNC. I'm not a fan of it, as the Shaper Origin has two critical disadvantages compared to traditional CNCs: you have to guide it along manually, and it is only capable of doing 2 dimensional routing.
Fair point. I looked into purchasing a table-style CNC, it it was too expensive, and I did not have the space for it. When I watch Dan Lee Boatbuilding, it is clear that the table-style CNC is more accurate and way faster. I do like the Shaper Original. So no turning back now…
I cannot argue with you, as it looks huge to me. I am following the plans from Dan Lee Boatbuilding. And it was designed by an expert. That said, I have a lot to trim off of the stringers and keel. So it will be less bulky.
Nice! But I have to make one input. Please never use gloves while using any power machine. Flesh will rip, some stiches and you are good. But gloves will tangle for example to your bandsaw blades pulling your hand down. You can't pull your hand off. You may lose fingers or even your hand. It happens a lot. You are a businessmen, your hands are valuable :D
SANTA!!!!! I know him!! I love the 1 year in review. It is amazing to see how far you have gotten this done. But i know there is a long way to go. Keep up the great work!!
Thanks for watching. It makes me happy to hear you and others plan to build Temptress. I hope you all can avoid the mistakes that learn from along the way.
congratulations on making some youtube monies and having all the frames permanently fixed on the boat - probably some sort of nautical tradition for that
building a boat on frames ..is a left over from the old days when you skinned a hull with thousands of little bits of wood .. we now have sheet wood . so stitch and glue the frame later is hundreds of times faster and stronger ..AND hard chines dont roll as much . but if you want a boat that looks fantastic when its not doing what its spozzed to do .. that is . out of the water go frames go round bilge ..
What a shame that the polythene wasn't in the scrap part! Good save though. The cut off part does seem wasteful, I think I'll try and come up with a revised lamination guide so you don't need to lay up full thickness layers all the way along.
Dan - That is a really good idea. I believe that would also reduce the spring back of the stem for a tighter fit to the jig. Thanks again for all of your support. There is no way I could have built Temptress without your guidance and the 3D CAD model. Bob (a.k.a. Polymerman)
It has been interesting watching the lamination process and as with everything, there are a hundred ways to achieve the same results. For the stem, would a thinner lamination with a tighter bend and a knee added in front of the first frame achieve the same result with the benefit of having the grain direction of the knee supporting the bend work? Also, would the stringers benefit from being done as thinner full length lamination's and more precisely cut blocking added between frames as they are attached work? The large lamination's look difficult to bend and glue by a home builder and once glued, hard to handle. Just thinking out loud - no criticism intended. Doing is hard but worthwhile and I am just watching what the two of you are actually doing.
@@Polymerman yes I think your right, with less veneers stressed around the full curve, spring back should be reduced. Also I’m happy to be of help, that’s a challenging first time boat build you are taking on there!
@@hamishkirkness6933 thinner laminations in both cases would definitely reduce spring back. The stringers are a difficult one, there were several ways I thought of approaching making them. Originally they were going to be the primary build jig instead of the strongback and they would have sat on the jigs within the structure throughout the build. The full bulkheads made this not feasible though. Both this element and the transom jig got drawn up several times by myself in CAD and then abandoned for the current method.
@@hamishkirkness6933 Hamish - Thank you for watching. No criticism taken. For me this is a really interesting process, filled with painful learnings. And I do think you are correct that thinner lamination boards would have reduced spring back. But onward I march.
probably too late and hindsight is 20/20... but if you're trying not to ruin too many clothes with epoxy then a pair of coveralls might be worth it. Congrats on the milestone!
