That's good to know. Seems like they may be able to improve the kit somehow. Another person commented and said I should get the kit with the T-handle reamer. I have not tried that one yet. Hopefully my future does not have many manual tire repairs in it. 😄
@@richardb.1414 Not sure. Every source I checked is consistent- even for the 450H. 76 ft-lbs. Over torqueing is bad for a few reasons. re: "The torque for the wheel lug nuts on a 2011 Lexus GS450h is 76 ft-lbs. The torque for wheel nuts can vary depending on the car model, rim size, design, and number of bolts. The torque values for new rims can be found in the rim certificate."
😂 Η Παναγία δεν με άφησε εκεί. ήταν στο αμάξι και με περίμενε να τελειώσω την επισκευή του ελαστικού. Τώρα ξέρει ότι μπορώ να κάνω την επισκευή σχετικά γρήγορα. 😁
Probably more likely at a gas station, since you’ll need to put air in the tire. The spare tires that come with your car are typically scary to drive on, and tire shops aren’t always open. This one was especially difficult due to where the nail went in.
That's a good effort but you worked way too hard. 1. That isn't a patch that's a plug. There is a difference. 2. Lose that plug kit it is terrible. Get one that is like a "T" handle, it will make your job much easier. 3. You don't need that plug bond. You can just use the plug without it. 4. You can't ream it too much.
Hi Luke, It seems you can use some instructions on this and future project on plugging tires. I'm here to "help you" not to criticize you, so please take it not offensive, but rather friendly. You made several mistakes from the beginning, making it very difficult and tough on you. 1) When you start to pull out nail or screw from tire. you shouldn't just yank it out ! You should pull it little by little, stop in between steps and determine original angle (direction) nail went in to a tire. VERY important ! Once nail is out your "Reamer" or auger should be pushed in at same angle in same direction nail vent in.... Not strait in as you are trying to do. If nail route is one way, and you create whole different hole with reamer, you will have hard time, because you are creating whole another hole, and most likely you will have leak after completing job because you are plugging hole you created but not original hole that nail did. I hope this make sense and helps you and others who watch your Chanel. Good luck.
Should cut plug rope flush with tire. Those ends, sometimes will dry out by fiction on road and cause leaks.... Just saying. You got lucky this time for not having a leak after repair. Good job.
Thank you. Most of my videos are first attempts, so I know there are probably better ways to do things. But, I usually learn from the things I do wrong as I attempt to follow the directions on the package. In this video, I believe I did pull the nail out slowly and intended to ream the whole in the same direction. However, the information you added is helpful, and I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thank you.
I agree. That was directly through a steel belt, which made it a real pain. I repaired another tire a couple weeks later (on the same vehicle) and it was much easier since the hole was not through a steel belt. But I definitely would have saved myself from hammering if I had spent more time with the reamer.
you dont need to disconnect the hoses that were on the T plug in the back of the intake all you had to do was just get a flat head and pryed between the intake and the T plug and the clip would come off it slightly bends the clip but it goes back in no problem same with the clips holding the harness.
There's a service mode for Toyota/Lexus. It can release the rotors by certain procedures. Hope this'd help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--Y1U8Iw88iA.html
I would use a brake cleaner. Below is a link to the product I use, on Amazon. I got mine from my local auto parts store, and I'm not sure if you have the same exact type in Canada. Depending on which area you are trying to clean, and how clean you are trying to make it, you may want to use the brake cleaner with a brush of some kind to remove the buildup, then wipe with a cloth. www.amazon.com/CRC-Brakleen-Brake-Cleaner-Formula/dp/B003OUG0SO?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AS35M2JG5M1DD
@@chandyskariah8284 I'm always on a budget, so I use aftermarket. I try to get good aftermarket but have had a problem with that. A year or two ago, I needed to replace the brake pads. I got some higher-end but reasonably priced pads from my auto part store. About a month after replacing the pads, I noticed shaking when I applied the brakes. So, I figured I needed to have the rotors turned. I had previously decided that turning rotors cost too much for the benefit. Seems to be better to get new rotors. But, I decided to have them turned anyway. The tire place told me that the back rotors were about done and said this was the last time they could be turned. The shaking was worse. Since they told me the rear rotors were bad, I purchased a brake and rotor kit from Amazon. They are not high-end, but I have used that brand on a couple different vehicles, and they seem to work great. That did not fix the shaking, so I figured it was the front brakes. This time, I got new rotors from my auto parts store. After about a month, the shaking came back. So, I figured it was the aftermarket rear rotors and pads from Amazon. I contacted that company, told them their rotors are garbage and had them send me a new set of rotors and pads. The problem persisted. So, I took My front rotors back to the auto parts store for a replacement. That fixed the problem for a while, but it eventually came back. I went back to the tire store and had them check my rotors. They said my back rotors were brand new, but I had actually been driving on them for several months. I went back to the auto parts store and had them replace my rotors again. The problem was gone for a while but came back again after about a month. I was starting to wonder if my calipers may be sticking and causing the rotors to warp, but the tire store said that the calipers were working correctly. Since they had told me that my rear rotors were new when they had been used for months, I wondered if the rear calipers were working at all or if they were just so good that they weren't showing wear. I decided to replace the front brakes and rotors with the same kit I got from Amazon. That fixed the problem, and after about 20,000 miles, the problem is still gone. So, Long story short, I believe the problem that caused all the extra work, time, and money was the initial set of after-market brake pads I got from the auto parts store. The thing I don't like about the brakes and rotors that work well is that when I back down my driveway with the brakes applied, it sounds like there's grinding, metal to metal. The pads, rotors, and all other components are fine and it's apparently just the sound of those pads on those rotors. The ones I get from Amazon are Power Stop ceramic disk pads and rotors.
With al the brake jobs I have ever done, I have always had to retract the piston. As the brakes wear down, the calipers adjust to keep the pads close to the rotor. When you put the new pads on, they are thicker than the old, worn pads and will not fit without retracting the piston.
Thank you. Man it is really challenging, even regular mechanic will have difficulty doing it, I am thinking of going to the dealership and pay the $700
Yeah, that’s your choice. Too much money for me, but lots of people go that route. With the dealership, at least you can feel confident that the job was done right. And it won’t have to be done again for quite a while.
@@LukeStensland Last week I used sea foam 3 times (1/2 can in the oil intake and 1.5 can in the gas tank, the error message is gone for a week now, I went to change order prematurely to clean what I did, he said no need to change the oil because I just changed it with him and I asked for the price of replacing at least the 3 coils (on the back - the hard ones) and spark plugs and the price is $1350, this is a regular mechanic and not the dealership, I guess the dealership will be cheaper. there is no error message currently, so I will hold for now.
Wow! That is expensive. If you’re replacing coils, I’m not sure how much those cost. I have heard that different variations of the RX350 may be more difficult to work on. But I only have experience with this exact model. For mine, though it seems like a lot of work, it was actually not that difficult. Just time consuming.
its honestly not that hard if a mechanic cant do this job then i wouldnt trust them to work on my car but if it was a hybrid version of this car i would understand because it way harder to do even if they know how to do it they probably wont want to do it.
No. You have to get the electric motor to retract the piston. It has been suggested to me that I am doing it wrong, because I did not put my vehicle in service mode. Service mode is where you do a procedure that makes the car retract the piston, without having to run electrical wires. I could not find a procedure that worked to get my car into service mode, so I had to use the wires. But, I'm sure there is a working procedure for this. That would be the best way, if you can find the one that works for your car.
@@kietbui31407 Thank you. If you do happen to find the correct procedure to put this vehicle in service mode, feel free to post the instructions or a link to the information. I would like to know how to do that.
I'd like to know how to put it in service mode. I haven't found a method that actually works for my car. If you can put it in service mode, that's obviously best. But, if you can't, then you can do it this way.
It works for me perfectly. One thing I would like to recommend is the wrench used for 17’ caliber bolt. It needs a thin wall wrench or thin nose locked pliers to keep the bolt from running.
If you can't fit a breaker bar in there, the other technique I use is to slide a closed end wrench over the handle of the socket wrench. This puts the wrench at an angle and can help in a tight spot.
Excellent! Don't have the 2017 RX350 but good to know how to deal with electric parking brake (more of a nuisance than help) when changing the rear brakes! Btw, your car's brake areas are really clean!
I would imagine it does. I have a 2012 Toyota Venza and it is very similar to my 2017 Lexus RX350. However, my Venza does not have the automatic parking brake, so I can't say for sure.
There is an easier way to do this there is an actual sequence you hit and it puts them in service mode no wires needed ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jf5VzdXcwRs.html
This is great, thanks for this! Did you have any dashboard warnings related to the electronic parking brake at all after the installation was complete?
Nicely done Video Luke. Audio could be enhanced a bit. But found it very helpful. This is the closest video I could find for my 2018 RX450hl. For those that may have the same vehicle. There are some significant differences. The wipers and deck need to come out. For the back 3 cylinders there is a bracket with several hard piped lines, i.e. aluminum tubing obstructing access to 2 of the back 3 spark plugs. One of the bolts that needs to be removed to loosen this bracket, needs to be accessed from under the vehicle. If your dealer offers to do your plugs for $500 or so to change plugs on a Hybrid. It is a good deal. Thanks a lot Luke.
Thanks for the input. The only experience I have is with the RX350. I was asked how much a shop would charge to replace spark plugs in an RX350, so in order to give accurate information, I called the Lexus shop for a quote. The quote was actually $784. For my car, that is way overpriced. For your car, that may be a little more reasonable. But for me, paying close to $1,000 for a spark plug change is ridiculous. As far as the quality of my videos, I'm doing the best I can with what I have. But you're right, they definitely have room for improvement. Thank you, I appreciate your input.
My 2013 RX450h was a real bear. The back heating pipes were tight against the firewall and hadn’t been touched in 10 years so they were on hard. Frankly I wouldn’t do it again. My wife has a 2017 RX350 so that will go much easier thanks to your video.
@@user-nn6sq8ow5g no, sorry I did not. There are videos on the throttle body but when I got back to the firewall and found those heater tubes I was upset because they looked like a pain. Very little room and hard to get any wrench in to loosen ten year old bolts.
@@honestscentz9300 I thought it was around $500, but I just called the Lexus dealer nearest to me, just to make sure I was giving accurate information, and they want $784, just to replace the spark plugs. That's way too much for me for something this easy.
@@Vi3tKy0 I hope it works out for you. I have heard that depending on the exact year and model, it may be more difficult than what I experienced. But, for this vehicle, I'd say the time spent is well worth the savings. Good luck.
@@davemorrill2490 The directions are there. Connect the positive and negative wires to the motor. One way pushes the caliper piston out. Reversing the wires pulls the piston back in.
@@LukeStensland hey at least you're replying, I actually appreciate that quite a bit. Thank you for the video and thank you for that instruction. God bless man.
just my luck. the one portion i needed to know, there's a glitch in the video. from 2:10 to about 2:40 the video is still. then when it starts again, you already have the electronic brake motor off.
The video is still, but I am talking. I believe at about 11:36 you will get a better view of the electric brake motor. It is attached to the caliper and it is removed, still attached to the caliper, when I take the caliper off. Let me know if this doesn't clear things up for you.
@@psycholarge Those are the ones. I took one to the hardware store and screwed it into their thread size bolts, and that is the size. So, I believe it is a 5/16 inch width, with 18 threads per inch. Then, just about any length will do. 1" should be fine, but longer will also work.
Hi Luke, great tutorial. I know you mentioned you don’t know, but is there any chance you can find out what thread size you placed for the rotor removal? Also, is the rear rotor removal the same or does it differ?
I'll try to remember to take one of the bolts to the hardware store tomorrow and get a size for you. The rear rotors are a little different. They tend to come off easier, but this vehicle has the automatic e-brake. So, before you start, it's easiest to turn off the e-brake. The other part that makes the rear a little tricky is that, since it has an electric motor for the e-brake, you can't simply compress the caliper. You have to run two wires from a battery, positive and negative, to the terminals on the brake motor to get them to back off, so the new rotor can fit. I am waiting for the rotors to arrive. Looks like next Monday. But, I'll let you know when it's done.
@@LukeStensland Thank you for the quick response. You don’t have to go out of your way and get it sized, I can do that myself. But I would love to see your rear rotor change!
