Excellent! Don't have the 2017 RX350 but good to know how to deal with electric parking brake (more of a nuisance than help) when changing the rear brakes! Btw, your car's brake areas are really clean!
With al the brake jobs I have ever done, I have always had to retract the piston. As the brakes wear down, the calipers adjust to keep the pads close to the rotor. When you put the new pads on, they are thicker than the old, worn pads and will not fit without retracting the piston.
I would use a brake cleaner. Below is a link to the product I use, on Amazon. I got mine from my local auto parts store, and I'm not sure if you have the same exact type in Canada. Depending on which area you are trying to clean, and how clean you are trying to make it, you may want to use the brake cleaner with a brush of some kind to remove the buildup, then wipe with a cloth. www.amazon.com/CRC-Brakleen-Brake-Cleaner-Formula/dp/B003OUG0SO?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AS35M2JG5M1DD
@@chandyskariah8284 I'm always on a budget, so I use aftermarket. I try to get good aftermarket but have had a problem with that. A year or two ago, I needed to replace the brake pads. I got some higher-end but reasonably priced pads from my auto part store. About a month after replacing the pads, I noticed shaking when I applied the brakes. So, I figured I needed to have the rotors turned. I had previously decided that turning rotors cost too much for the benefit. Seems to be better to get new rotors. But, I decided to have them turned anyway. The tire place told me that the back rotors were about done and said this was the last time they could be turned. The shaking was worse. Since they told me the rear rotors were bad, I purchased a brake and rotor kit from Amazon. They are not high-end, but I have used that brand on a couple different vehicles, and they seem to work great. That did not fix the shaking, so I figured it was the front brakes. This time, I got new rotors from my auto parts store. After about a month, the shaking came back. So, I figured it was the aftermarket rear rotors and pads from Amazon. I contacted that company, told them their rotors are garbage and had them send me a new set of rotors and pads. The problem persisted. So, I took My front rotors back to the auto parts store for a replacement. That fixed the problem for a while, but it eventually came back. I went back to the tire store and had them check my rotors. They said my back rotors were brand new, but I had actually been driving on them for several months. I went back to the auto parts store and had them replace my rotors again. The problem was gone for a while but came back again after about a month. I was starting to wonder if my calipers may be sticking and causing the rotors to warp, but the tire store said that the calipers were working correctly. Since they had told me that my rear rotors were new when they had been used for months, I wondered if the rear calipers were working at all or if they were just so good that they weren't showing wear. I decided to replace the front brakes and rotors with the same kit I got from Amazon. That fixed the problem, and after about 20,000 miles, the problem is still gone. So, Long story short, I believe the problem that caused all the extra work, time, and money was the initial set of after-market brake pads I got from the auto parts store. The thing I don't like about the brakes and rotors that work well is that when I back down my driveway with the brakes applied, it sounds like there's grinding, metal to metal. The pads, rotors, and all other components are fine and it's apparently just the sound of those pads on those rotors. The ones I get from Amazon are Power Stop ceramic disk pads and rotors.
If you can't fit a breaker bar in there, the other technique I use is to slide a closed end wrench over the handle of the socket wrench. This puts the wrench at an angle and can help in a tight spot.
I would imagine it does. I have a 2012 Toyota Venza and it is very similar to my 2017 Lexus RX350. However, my Venza does not have the automatic parking brake, so I can't say for sure.
This is great, thanks for this! Did you have any dashboard warnings related to the electronic parking brake at all after the installation was complete?
No. You have to get the electric motor to retract the piston. It has been suggested to me that I am doing it wrong, because I did not put my vehicle in service mode. Service mode is where you do a procedure that makes the car retract the piston, without having to run electrical wires. I could not find a procedure that worked to get my car into service mode, so I had to use the wires. But, I'm sure there is a working procedure for this. That would be the best way, if you can find the one that works for your car.
@@kietbui31407 Thank you. If you do happen to find the correct procedure to put this vehicle in service mode, feel free to post the instructions or a link to the information. I would like to know how to do that.
just my luck. the one portion i needed to know, there's a glitch in the video. from 2:10 to about 2:40 the video is still. then when it starts again, you already have the electronic brake motor off.
The video is still, but I am talking. I believe at about 11:36 you will get a better view of the electric brake motor. It is attached to the caliper and it is removed, still attached to the caliper, when I take the caliper off. Let me know if this doesn't clear things up for you.
There is an easier way to do this there is an actual sequence you hit and it puts them in service mode no wires needed ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jf5VzdXcwRs.html
@@davemorrill2490 The directions are there. Connect the positive and negative wires to the motor. One way pushes the caliper piston out. Reversing the wires pulls the piston back in.
@@LukeStensland hey at least you're replying, I actually appreciate that quite a bit. Thank you for the video and thank you for that instruction. God bless man.
I'd like to know how to put it in service mode. I haven't found a method that actually works for my car. If you can put it in service mode, that's obviously best. But, if you can't, then you can do it this way.
It works for me perfectly. One thing I would like to recommend is the wrench used for 17’ caliber bolt. It needs a thin wall wrench or thin nose locked pliers to keep the bolt from running.