Great video ! Question I have a 5.3 ticking 2002 suburban for the past 2 years inherited from my father in law. He says it’s been ticking since new! Anyways oil pressure at idle sits around 30-40 but will occasionally drop to zero and then come back up . These fluctuations don’t correspond to ticking ; the ticking is mainly on highway being driven hard . My question is could it be the oil pressure sensor? Does the sensor feedback to engine to modulate pressure or does it merely feed into dashboard instrument cluster ? Any thoughts on this ? Thanks
Strictly feeds into the dashboard. I suspect a bad oil pressure sensor but I have seen several cases where you replace the sensor and the gauge still acts squirrelly. As far as the ticking (worse after a hard freeway run) try dumping a pint of Rislone into the oil and see if anything changes and report back when you can
Now that i have stumbled in to your video , i just rebuild my np231 and rememberd that the front output bearing was easy to install (ballbearing not the needle one ) I have Vibrations from front at 70mph and up i a wave like Frequency. New driveshaft and Angle not too bad. Without driveshaft no vibration . Well have to follow your steps and look for another front T case . Thank you.
These things are a SOB when it comes to front driveshafts especially if you have any sort of lift. That double cardio joint at the transfer case tries to solve it but I've seen situations where it simply can't. The true fix is a multi-ball CV style connection at the transfer case like the Liberty uses, but it's custom stuff. Nothing a driveshaft shop couldn't handle. I staked the last bearing housing and hit it with some red loc-tite.
I was thinking the same and couldn't fined any cv for xj . You might be the first, however if the u joint out front is within the 3deg there shuld be no problems But that comes on the price off giving away that good all caster. I cut my dana30 and turn the C's 5deg to gain the caster .(most welders didn't want to weld it for me and i understud why). Hope the new front np231 will.fix this long lasting problem. (By the way a driveshaft disconnect on front would be nice , another time ).
Oh OK , well nice to see you know about the best carburetors I think on the G M automobile, and John knew alot about them also lost of knowledge like yourself.
First off that’s a great video . Mr. Osborne are you located in California? I live in small town in Riverside, but I wouldn’t know how close you are from Riverside or are you even in California? how easy it is to do that type of work on my truck.? I am not a mechanic.
i have a 2007 ford 4.0 6 cylinder code P0745 [PRESSURE CONTROL SELIOND A] 145,000 miles vechicle is stuck on limp mode first gear doesnt go pass 25 mph .revs up fine runs and drives, when u shift the shifter going through the PRND321 all work fine except no reverse,u can feel the vechicle going through gears; will a refurbished solenoidpack resolve this issue.
Thanks for the videos. I'm setting up 2 solar systems at my house and one looks like I'll be charging with a MakeSkyBlue and using my old Volt Batteries. I was hoping they would stay in balance without a BMS . I'm still deciding on a split phase inverter to use with that setup. The other system will have a eg4 6000xp inverter and 8 lifepo4 100ah Batteries. Thanks again 👍
I need to revisit the headlight issue on my 86 Trans Am. I don't even have these relays you are showing. The only relays at the front right of mine are the primary coolant fan and the auxiliary fan relays, and on the left front fender is the fog light relay. Mine has a headlight door module on the firewall that, according to the factory service manual, is what controls the headlight doors. I'm wondering if someone had already put in these relays to bypass the factory module on the car you worked on? Either way, I need to take a deeper dive into my issue again soon and see if I can find any traces of what you show.
Hey, I got a turbocharged Ford 7810 and turned the fueling to max, it's got around 140 pto hp. Do these have anything else limiting rack travel, or is it automatically maxed if I unscrew the fuel screw out as far as it goes, like does the rack go as far as possible with stock throttle position or, do I have to remove the throttle stop screw for that? How much more fueling would you say to have gotten from grinding of the pump?
Just bought a 04 Yukon xl off eBay. Showed up with low oil pressure. 4psi up to temp idle. Dropped pan to replace oil pick up o-ring and pan gasket hoping the orings were bad but to my surprise somebody already changed them along with oil pump . Also decent size pieces of metal in pan . So the way I see it engine is junk or needs overhaul. Has anyone seen a new oil pump out of the box? I haven’t so don’t think it’s even worth trying to change the pump
i have a simms 3 cyl pump i rebuilt engine and cant get the pump to pump up i replaced the supply pump but didnt help im getting fule to the injector pump but it wont pump up any advice?
Appreciate it. My extractor bolt broke off on me today trying to get a broken bleeder bolt out. I was going nice and easy with the tap, but still managed to break off. I'm glad I cooled off for a few hours and found your video. Now I have hope without having to weld something crazy or replace totally...
I had been looking for a detailed source on this subject for a long time, and unfortunately, I couldn’t understand the technical drawings of the diagrams I found on the internet until I came across your video. I am very pleased that you explained it with such clarity that even someone with no knowledge of electricity can understand it. I have an issue with the electrical system of my 1985 Trans Am, and for some reason, the headlight switch button heats up and the brass metals inside melt and stick together. As a result, the headlights no longer go up; only the light pulps inside are on. Now I understand that a short circuit in the electrical system may have damaged both the relay and the fuses. What steps would you recommend I take to diagnose this?
The wires come out of the firewall right under the brake booster, follow them closely all the way to the headlights themselves making sure they are not rubbed through and shorted either to ground or one another. If they look good, unplug the headlights and see if the switch still gets warm. If it does, the only thing left is a problem under the dash
I take a piece of sheet metal or aluminum (depending on what I have laying around), cut it a little larger than the hole I cut in the floor, then pop-rivet it to the existing floor. Also, I put some silicone sealer around the hole before installing the sheet metal cover so no water can splash up and leak in
@@angelatbluehairedsudios8106 Please please be careful not to cut too deep or you can cut the fuel lines and/or wires. You want to just barely cut through the metal
Having problems with a Melling original timing chain install on a 4.7 Dodge Ram. The markings aren't as noticeable. Where can I find info on an original time chain install?
Remove the intake. The PCV passage is not ported large enough on the mating surface of manifold. Like a pinhole when it should be at least 1/8 inch in diameter. These get froze/plugged over time due to this. Drill it to 1/8. THIS is the most common reason for the rear main seals to blow out. Done many. Hope this helps.
I put a slim screwdriver under the cap, snapped the bits of plastic under the triangle shaped clip things on the box thet keep it in place. You can then remove the old cap without damaging the box. You can then replace the valve, backing and spring and then pop the new cap down to replace the broken cap. You technically could do it without removing the box at all.
What about warpage? Is there a tolerance I can use, I tried to unwarp using heat and trying to finesse the body by assembling it no gaskets and such. Worked abit but my secondary flap in the airhorn is getting hung up now in the process of "bending" things but I still have a high spot in the middle section ( housing I suppose) should I try individually bolting stuff to a bench with heat and apply force on the centres?
Usually you must file the opening where they secondary air doors are catching. I place the entire top section upside-down in a vice and take a large file and make passes until I'm just tickling it in the middle. They worst part will be where the 2 front bolts go through.
@@mark_osborne the flaps are only hanging up due to what I did they were smooth as silk otherwise it's the rod itself is binding and moving in its groove but I think flattening it will help. I will try bokting down to a very solid piece of timber w heat and try again and if not I'll try that method
@@kainestefaniak2751 Yeah you may have this thing torqued out of shape. They typically only warp in the front 1/3rd due to the 2 large front bolts- which is usually correctable with a large file. Sorry you're having so much grief
@@mark_osborne as expected with older items, no problem I will slowly get it, I really appreciate the feedback and will be watching again when i get it sorted. Carby is supaa clean just waiting on some parts. Wanted to help the old man getting his hq Ute running. Seen a few different methods but seen you were fairly active in the comment section so multiple opinions is always thought of and appreciated
I ran them without a BMS all the way to the fall of 2023 when I switched over to LifePO4 cells from Docan Power. The Volt and Leaf cells remained in near perfect balance the entire 7 years they were in service and amazingly tested to 90-92% capacity when I tested each individual 48 V pack. The Leaf cells went to a friend in Texas, I got almost what I paid for them. I still have the Volt cells. I need to get them up for sale. Thanks for watching
I bought 64 cells, they came from a warehouse in Texas but were made in China, so at some point they took the slow boat to the US. The cells cost more when you buy them from the Texas warehouse because the cost to get them to the US is baked into the price. I don't remember the exact cost of shipping from Texas to Michigan, I think $500 ? It wasn't horrible. It was a fraction of what it would have cost me in gas and motel rooms to drive to Texas and back. They came on 1 pallet. I drove to Romulus, Michigan and picked them up at the shipper using my pickup truck. I bought them from Docan Power. Contact Amy. Great outfit. Super happy with the cells. They've been in play for over a year now.
@@mark_osborne You definitely got a better shipping price than me to shipped 64 batteries. All I want was Docan to ship to me 16 batteries from there US warehouse to me and would cost me little over $800. I said no thank you. This price was giving in late may 2024. They did offer another batter at $90 a piece from US warehouse and free shipping I said no to that too. I am thinking of ordering the 280Ah Docan Power batteries at $39.90 from overseas, but I am afraid shipping cost wouldn't be much better either. Also there name on the battery Docan Power is not the company full name it is Docan Technology. Anyway, thank you for all the info.
My quad . When revving in neutral , the secondaries open slightly . Are the doors too tight ?I have a pretty good bog when I stab it from a stand still but runs fine otherwise
Completely normal for the secondaires to barely open while revving in neutral. A bog usually indicates the secondary air door is opening too soon or too easy. The choke-brake (diaphragm) located at the passenger side front of the carb should have a rod that leads back to the secondary air door. The choke-brake should hold that door closed ( tight) while idling (high intake vacuum) and bleed-off slowly when you smash the throttle. Some carbs even have a secondary choke-brake located at the passenger rear of the carb with rods leading to the secondary air door. They effectively do the same thing as pertaining to the air door, that is, slow it's ability to open causing fuel to flow out of the secondary nozzles -thus covering up the "bog" you are feeling. Have a good look at all of this and make sure it's all operating as designed. It's possible someone put an aftermarket choke-brake on that's bleeding off too quick. It should take a good 2-3 seconds for that choke-brake (diaphragm) to bleed off if you simply remove the vacuum hose at an idle. If it flys open, that's likely the problem. The opening rate is controlled by the tiny hole where the vacuum hose connects.
I have a 2010 Escalade esv that dropped a valve seat and bent pushrod, blew piston and wrist pin into the cylinder through watch jacket.. ended up just putting a 5.3 in. Heard nothing but garbage about the 6.2s
Hey Mark, I have a 2005 Explorer Sport Trac 4WD. Same exact symptoms you described, except my code was incorrect 3rd gear ratio. Fluid looks good. Every shop I call doesn’t wanna touch it or wants to rebuild. I’m thinking a valve body? I’m stumped. Been driving with this issue for about 17,000 clicks now, hasn’t gotten worse at all. It’s extremely annoying.
My marine quadrajet won't idle at all. Took it apart and rebuilt it cleaned everything reassembled but zero idle. Will run with anything above idle or if choke is fully closed. Btw this is why I rebuilt it in the first place. Ideas? I tried the two air mixture screws and made no difference
Sounds like a blockage in the idle fuel feed circuit. It's not likely in the throttle plate as you can literally see the circuit, rather, almost certainly in the body of carb. I'd take it back apart and using a rubber blow-gun nozzle, blow air down through the holes that are next to the primary venturi (s)- both sides. This is the idle fuel well. Take a small wire and see if you can dig around as well. Also, make sure the top section of the carb is not warped. If it's warped, fuel won't flow properly through the idle circuit as it takes a trip up- then back down through the top plate right next to where the 2 small bolts secure the top plate at the venturi (both sides)
Thanks I will try that. I forced carb cleaner through all passages and it seems to flow thru but did not use high pressure. Carb did have water in it and sat a couple years, was a dunked up mess when i took it apart. Good news is everything past idle works great now, don't believe the secondaries worked at all before, always bogged down and had to pump the throttle to get it on plane. Greatly appreciate your insight, great viedo!
@@timmthirty7928 water is the worst, almost certain there is corrosion in the idle wells. You could try some CLR, squirt some down the the holes into the idle wells and let it sit, blow it out, repeat, you might clear the blockage
I've been chasing a "bog" at full throttle in a 305 with a 700r4 I put in a s10 I went as far as buying a new qudrajet just to have the same issue my air/fuel guage says my motor is going way too rich at full throttle I'll definitely try this ... I'm stumped at this point
