From The Frame Up specializes in hard to find MG TABC parts. Additionally, FTFU offers high quality restorations… from the frame up. The information presented here offer insights to our products and services. And more importantly, shared technical tips and information to help you….. keep your MG on the road.
I'm sure that the number of rotations you've made to prime the pump is at least equal to those it takes the engine to normally build pressure. So a lot of effort for no gain. Yes, I do have an xpag engine, and agree that it takes a looong time to build pressure.
Thanks for the video. I was able to order a rebuikd kit locally in Australlia from a Brake suplier that deals in parts for many old cars. The spreader washer often talked about was not required because the new rubber cup had one moulded into it. One difference though was the little valve body suplied in the kit does not fit into the opening of the spring so I have retained the original. Also it came with 2 types of secondary seals depending on what type was originaly fitted. I guess the master cylinder was common to other British makes and not just MG. My Master cylinder has already been resleeved and the container is made from solid metal with a cap the same as on top of a gearbox or diff. A 29mm box spanner that comes with most house tap repairs fits neatly over the large nut to remove from the chassis. I did not disturb the extension tupe for fear of not being able to get a new copper washer but had internals honed. My reason for dismantling was a rear cylinder was sticking so thought may as well check all . Great video Doug.
Die allerbeste Adresse, wenn es um Teile für den TC geht. Der Online Katalog ist atemberaubend. Es gibt nichts Vergleichbares weltweit. Herzliche Grüße aus Deutschland!
Always nice to see you Mr.Pelton you are indeed great help to me restoreing my MGTCs Sir giving correct info as well as to precure hard to find MG parts which no body else does being your customer from far off India I know keep up the good work Sir thank you!!
Nice film. Im about to put mine back together. I have a rubber ring in my repair kit that seemed like a spare part. I can see it's the first part to go in. Previous owner must've missed it out. I do have a thin metal ring in mine that you don't show. How important is that bit?
Hi Doug, Just to be sure, the thread on the bearing retaining nut is left on the left side, so the opposite of the knock-off? Also any suggestions on haw to remove the original nut? Thanks.
I ground the cutting end of the chisel flat at a slight angle (to fit between nut the castellation flat) before doing that and it worked a treat. It seemed unusually risky to use a sharp cold chisel. I notice you do not mention the rear hub gaskets, as originally fitted, in the video. Is this because they serve no purpose and also to ensure the min 4/1000 gap is maintained? Cheers.
That was the original method of install. It would allow you to use tach nails. If you are using the modern foam and contact cement, you don't need the fiber board.
Thanks for the info on the slow running mechanism. I took it apart 15 years ago and have misplaced bits due to moving to various properties. Watching any footage of TC’s makes my heart feel 18 ( when I purchased my TC 9291) again. I’m now 74 and for the first time in my life, it’s ‘My Time’. Keep it up. Love your work. Best regards from Australia.
happened twice on my TD too. on two hot days (100+) and long distances >100 miles with lots of cornering, i've had two rear axle oil leaks into the rear brake shoes. the first time, i thought the seals were bad. i replaced them and the metal cones too. it happened again and i figured that the air pressure relief hole in the axle housing was plugged, so i double checked that it was clear. but now i'm wondering if this is just a chronic problem with these cars and its just a matter of time before it happens again.
If the axles are overfilled with oil, they will leak even with new seals. For the TC do not fill to the top of the filler plug. This is a common error resulting in continuous leak. The TC "fill level plug is at the 9'oclock position, on the driver's side, on the axle housing.
@@fromtheframeup772 thanks... i recently had the rear axle removed and the crown ring and pinion replaced with taller gear ratio, so i'm assuming (and you know what THAT means :)) that the mech installed the right amount of fluid. but i plan on removing some anyway. i'm not too fearful of starving the diff and associated parts of oil. i think i'll use the most accurate method of measurement, i.e. sticking my little finger in the filler hole as far as i can until the tip just touches the oil. :), then cross my fingers and pray.
Hello, Doug. Thanks for the great video. One question. I noticed you left the original reverse scroll in the axle when you installed the new kit. Would it not be more prudent to remove it so that, in case it is working as was originally designed, you don't have the risk of the new lip seal running dry? Thanks, Alvan Judson
We usually leave it in unless it interferes with a new tapered half shaft. Then we will tap in the scroll an 1/8" to make clearance. Careful not to go too far as it will drop down into the differential. Thanks, Doug ** Using Derek's Computer**
Thanks for your videos Doug. Was there originally a gasket between the hub and the carrier, I take it that's no longer required. Not even any sealants?
Very informative and very much appreciative on the video of how to rebuild the Master cylinder for the TC! Now to take it out and order the much needed parts to rebuild it! Thank you, Doug! Looking forward to seeing you on our next visit to Meza! Bruce
What a brilliant and informative set of video's. These will really help me when I come to the trimming of my MGTF replica project. Kind regards from Paul at 48 Spokes (UK)
Outstanding detail and great camera work. This will definitely make the process on my TD (while a bit different) go much faster. The details on how to cut/fold the vinyl were really helpful. Can't wait to watch the rest of your videos. Thanks again for taking the time to document and share your process and results.
Just asking.. wouldn't it be easier to slide the steering excluder over the column first and then bolt it to the bulkhead when the column is installed. Seems like it would be a little tricky to manhandle the column and steering gear into the excluder after its mounted to the panel.
Nope. We have done the install in conjunction with the install of column. Not fun to work under dash inside of tub and try to align holes and bolts with outside. Do it as shown in the video. All you do is lube the column with soapy water and slide into the hole. Done.
So clean and new! I'm considering replacing the wiring harness, but would appreciate a video describing that process...... Thanks for the view of what my '49 EXU should look like.
My master cylinder has additional pieces not seen in this video. There is a small tapered spring and a round metal device with a pointed end that sits below the valve and butts up against the valve rubber. I don't see these pieces in your video or in the Moss catalog. My TC is from 1946, #1022. Can you clarify for me? Many thanks.
