I've created this channel as a space to show you hands-on auto electrical problems and solutions with How-to Auto Electrics, Auto Electrical Bench Tests, 12V Product Reviews, and 12V tips⚡ My channel is my opportunity to help people who want to know a bit more about Auto Electrics; whilst doing something a bit different in my regular day as a Mobile Auto Sparky🧑🏼🔧 The goal is give you guys the confidence to try auto electrics for yourselves rather than paying someone like me!
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Awesome thank you! I have a 250Amp smart alternator in my V6 Ranger, my question is I have two DC-DC controllers (40Amp & 50Amp)in my Caravan, 40 charges my existing Caravan System the 50 will charge my Big Lithium for the inverter. Can I run two appropriate size cables to feed both? any suggestions or advise? Also can I just run the two + red cables and use - to the chassis earths as you appear to have done ? Many thanks love your work!
Thanks for watching, glad you liked the video. Yes you can run two separate supplies if the caravan has two separate Anderson plugs for the dc chargers. I would use a minimum of 6b&s cable, preferably 4b&s if you have it. Earth to the chassis is fine, you could use one of the towbar bolts for the larger cables needed.
Thanks for the video. I had seen several other similar videos but I could not reach the holding clips , so I decided to cut the old thermister out with a utility knife. I still could not insert the thermister probe until I took the bottom off as you showed so I could move the compressor control box. I saw a couple questions about the error message. My cooler gave me an error message but it was the Dometic app on my phone that told me that the thermostat was defective. I found a thermostat on eBay but it is not Dometic. The cord is about 6 feet long but it is working. It was only about $7. It was hard to find, so I bought 2.
@@vesautoelectrics yea I did it yesterday arvo and it went so smoothly, thanks again coz it wasn’t something I thought I could do. You’re a champion! Cheers mate 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hi there, is that white wire from original earth pin 86 tap on switch earth ? and how about highbeam postivive and negative? just tap in original Kings harness high beam plug +to + ,-to-? Thanks
Have a Dometic CFX35. This was very helpful! I had to go to Harbor Freight and buy a screwdriver extender in order to get the screws out that held the p-clamps. Then I had a hard time figuring out whether the plate with the single screw goes in front of the to or behind the part we had to move out of the way to access the p-clamps.😤 Accidentally put one of the 14 little screws into a wrong home in the underside of the fridge and couldn’t get it out, co one hole was left without its original screw.🙄. And I was left with a small flat washer left over..(?). But it runs, and it turned itself off when it reached the set temperature.Yay for that! Thanks for including taking the cover off the control board, so we could see where the plug-in was supposed to go!!
Hi Rob, I’m trying to remember where i put it. Pretty sure i double sided taped and cable tied it to a module other on the drivers side. Directy above the pedals.
They can be a pain, try a flat head screwdriver or trim tool to pry it off. Sometimes they get stuck on the threads, and prying eachside of the plastic just a little bit usually frees it away.
Hi Matt, Just wondering how you got the SOC Bar Graph to show actual battery left, I have wired one of these as per the instructions but the bar graph doesn't move, even though my battery is 62% it shows 100% on the graph. I don't suppose you could put up some instructions on what you did. Much appreciated, keep up the great work.
Hi Grant, apologies for delayed response. I had the same issue at the beginning, but can’t remember what i did to rectify the issue. I will have a play over the weekend to hopefully jog my memory and let you know.
Change that start balance voltage to 3.45 anything lower unbalances your battery because its playing the voltage game and does not correlate to amp hours in the battery due to the flat charge curve
The JK BMS app shows each balance lead resistance value so its a great way to show people that YES trimming the balance leads does in fact affect the resistance of wire....now the thing is with passive balancing (usually around 100mA on the 50A or 100A BMS's) you have so little current going through the wire that even with 22AWG it shouldn't change the voltage TOO much...but it will slightly affect your attempts to balance if you have one or two full length balance leads and one or two very short ones. The long ones are going to show more voltage drop when the balancer is activated so they will charge higher than the short wires.
The cost difference between EVE LF100/LF105's vs LF280K/LF304 is just so small that it doesn't make sense to buy the smaller cells. Not sure what the price is on the newest MB30 and MB31 (actual capacity for EV Grade A cells is like 320Ah and 330Ah respectively but nominal capacity is 306Ah and 314Ah IIRC). Grade A EV cells should yield a few percent over the nominal rating during a 0.2C discharge so the 280K's are yielding 300'ish all day and the 304's are yielding 320'ish all day. Last I checked the 100/105's were $55 and 280's were $75-$80 with the 304's coming in at a few dollars more. Triple the capacity for about 50% more? Just a no brainer unless space is absolutely the biggest hurdle....in which case why settle for such....mediocre prismatic cells? Get some higher discharge cells...quite a few options that will do 3C continuous and 5C burst. If you step it down to 20Ah cylindrical cells (or even a few prismatic and a bunch of pouch) you can get 10C cells. Currently the hottest thing in the BatteryHookup/Jehu Garcia world (or any used cells really) is the LEV60F cells. Dirt cheap from BH at $30 each. 74Ah and capable of 5C continuous....Jehu was pushing them at 8C and they were holding 12V with a 600A load. I guess BMW used to use them and they are new old stock, not used. The 4 I've purchased got capacity tested at 50A (so like...0.66C figured I'd give them a hard discharge since they are power cells) and I pulled 72Ah from each one. Internal resistance is about 0.40mR per cell on the RC3563....I know the YR meters tend to give a lower number but their manual does flat out say that it can't be relied upon for measurements below 0.3mR and under 0.5mR or 1mR you need to have the ZR function on. So you could build a 148Ah battery capable of pushing out 1000A technically for $240+shipping on the cells...lets call it $300 USD. Then $50 for a BMS and another $100 for various other parts depending on how you want to build it. Jehu does sell aluminum plates that are meant to keep these cells compressed which is essential for high discharge applications.
Hi Matt, Love your videos and connected a meter like the one you have to my battery box to keep track of useage on my 120AH LiFePo4 battery. I'm a little perplexed as my SOC bar meter doesn't go down like your one didn't. Could you please share what you did to rectify this so it worked in Part 2 Freezer test. Cheers, thanks and keep up the good work.
Hi, thanks for watching! Glad you like the video’s. If I remember rightly, I hadn’t set the maximum and minimum voltage’s. Do this to your batteries spec and see if that resolves it. Keep me posted.
Just lightly cover the whole thermistor with paste. And i always measure how much of the old original cable goes down the hole and do the same with the new one 👍
I think you forgot to mention that if the screen is placed in dormant mode….. by pressing the button to switch off the screen, at that point the shunt and display stops measuring input and output and then your capacity totals become incorrect, that is so annoying and pointless…
8 months on and I’ve installed following the exact instructions and all seems well except the smart alternator on the car seems to not allow for the Anderson plug to work. Welcome any thoughts on this other than turning it off.
Apologies for delayed response, do you know how the dc charger is wired in the caravan? They usually have an ignition trigger wire to make the smart alternator put out sufficient continuous charge ?
Regrettably I dont know how this was done. I do know that this issue has only arisen since I changed vehicles. I will find an auto electrician to help me figure it out as I feel bad that you are doing all the work and not getting paid for it :-)@@vesautoelectrics
Great video, I did a very similar install for my PX2 Wildtrak. I now have a 2024 V6 Wildtrak with the Premium Package that includes 6x auxiliary switches. Are you familiar with these switch's? Was thinking of using them somehow for grey/red, caravan reverse camera and ignition source for bcdc charger in van. Would have to remember to turn on and off when using van, but I don't have an issue with that. Thought it may make install a little easier as all prewired, relayed and protected.
Thanks for watching. These switches are normally used for additional lighting, and powering low amperage accessories. I wouldn’t use them for heavy current items like anderson plugs etc.
Thanks for the information. I have a CFX3 35 Dometic fridge that is 2 years old and I just found it freezing everything. Ive been trying to find service parts for it but having a difficult time of it. Do you have a part# and vendor to get it from?
Thanks for watching, here’s a link to the website I purchase thermistors from. Hopefully it helps. www.allvolts.com.au/DOMETIC-WAECO-THERMISTOR-CFF35-CFF45-CFX28-CFX35-CFX40-CFX50-CFX65-CFX65DZ-CFX95DZ2-CFX35W-CFX40W-CFX50W-CFX65W-CFX75DZW-CFX95DZW-CFX100W-22-3B-103F100D-6557.html
Here’s the link. www.allvolts.com.au/DOMETIC-WAECO-THERMISTOR-CFF35-CFF45-CFX28-CFX35-CFX40-CFX50-CFX65-CFX65DZ-CFX95DZ2-CFX35W-CFX40W-CFX50W-CFX65W-CFX75DZW-CFX95DZW-CFX100W-22-3B-103F100D-6557.html
Did I miss the point where you charged it to 14.6V before doing the discharge? If the cells were out of balance you would need to wait days for the tiny balance resistorss to do their thing. A resting voltage of 11 indicates it is not yet fully discharged. If the fridge load made the voltage sag for the BMS to trip the display would be dead. It appears your Fridge can't go low enough. 110ah in bit of concern if the meter is calibrated. Picked up one yesterday for $250AUD yesterday. Will see how it goes.
Gave it a day and a half at 14.6V to make sure it was balanced, capacity tested down to 11.65V with 1282Wh on the dial with a 20amp load. Battery is 13Kg. The Current generation 100Ah cells are around 2Kg. The weight supports the teardown video showing it has 8 X 60AH cells that are probably aged. Still for intermitent use (camping as advertised) I expect it should last many years. Had no bolts for the terminals!
