Do you love miniature wargames? Me too! Join me on my adventures in the many fantastic universes we encounter on the the tabletop. Let's paint lots of minis and make wargaming better in every way we can. While most of my content relates to painting, I also love to cover news for Conquest: The Last Argument of Kings. I am always looking for new ways to expend my content offerings so stay tuned to see what I can come up with.
Ngl I’ve always wanted to get into painting miniatures but my perfectionism won’t let me my first one would look like crap and it would bother me to no end lol….
It is an unfortunate reality that you have to get through the bad paint jobs before you can make things look good. We all have to go through that process.
@@scottcisek2376 tbh if you just thin your paints and use washes you can get really good (albeit simple) paint jobs done and pretty fast at that. My first was still one of my favorites I'd done. Haven't touched a brush in years tho.
I confess, I have not read many warhammer books. This would be a great question to ask over in my community Discord server. I am sure people over there could recommend some good stuff. Here is the invite link: discord.gg/eaBtJGWSF3
You mean it's a method anyone who doesn't play Warhammer and also look at their painting guides would know ? Gee I wonder why he's sharing it because obviously everyone comes out the womb knowing every official game workshop technique.
It is indeed a GW recipe. I first picked this one up painting black templar back when the channel first started. if it works there is no reason not to share it around.
For sure. I hadn't applied the final sealant coat at the time of recording this video. Come to think of it, I don't think I have applied it yet period. lol
I have to disagree, I don’t think I’d use a flesh wash at all, for a red glaze I’d use Tamyia clear red, mixed with a black was for first glaze and replace the flesh was with Tamyia clear red at the end. Gives it more of a deep, crimson look.
@@TheMiniatureManager it’s what most people use to use for blood effects (I still do). I ran out of red was and gave it a try. I still it for blood effects, as it’s really good for doing tried up blood.
My easy Bronze magic trick: -Baltazar gold base code -guilliman flesh contrast ( it reduces the shining of the bronze and makes it kind of frosted, without looking brown. Best to thin down the contrast paint with medium, for more control, simply repeat to increase the effect) - optional agrax earthshade - dry brush baltazar gold, on raised surface
I do love a good wash of guilliman flesh. I have a good handful of recipes I use in different contexts depending on the final look I want. I will have to give yours a try and see how I like it. I usually go for brighter metallic tones so this could be a good change.
For sure. Part of what I did on this mini is I actually applied a layer of matte varnish between each batch of veins. Over time it gives the veins a subtle depth and also makes the marble have a natural shine to it that isn't as strong as putting a gloss varnish over it but still more than you would get from a coat of satin or matte varnish.
It all comes tot eh color tone you wish to achieve. Agrax would turn the armor darker and more brown where the fleshshade gives the gold a more red tone. This recipe comes from the stormcast eternal rulebook from last edition. So it is the same as the one they do on their box art.
I have other tutorials where I apply nihilakh oxide over armor using some of the same paints. Look at my longer videos and find the one where I paint a unit called Buccephaloi. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wCZfarZdlrA.html
Very nice recipe. For those who are not fans of Barak-Nar Burgundy like myself due to the consistency, Sword Hilt Burgundy by Two Thin Coats is the color equivalent with better coverage. Just thought I'd add an alternative for the same result. 👍
Thanks for the recommendation. Out of curiosity, what about the consistency of Barak-Nar Burgundy makes you not like it? It could be possible I have just never had a bad pot of it but I actually really like how well it can be thinned and applied.
@@TheMiniatureManager I just don't like the coverage of it compared to the other base paints and the pigmentation isn't as strong in my opinion. It could have been a one off bottle but I've heard other painters having issues with it as well. If it worked well for you then that's awesome, I just thought I'd give an alternative for those who may not like that paint for the base.
@@nikot.9920 I am pretty eager to try the one from two thin coats now. I would love to see how it compares. Can't say no to a better paint when I here of one.
I will have to give it a try. Admittedly, the burgundy on this project was improvised. I started the project planning to put black there. Then I decided against it.
For sure. When I was first shown that I could use a pencil to make straight lines it revolutionized how hazard stripes and checkers turned out on my minis.
You know, I thought about doing it that way. The main reason I didn't is because the dry brush on the main surface of the armor is a much heavier application and would have covered up the gold trim to the point it would no longer look any different.
@@paintingwithmartin Yeah. I was surprised with how well it turned out on my first attempt as well. It was certainly more of an experiment than a sure way of doing things. Ill be using the same recipe on a few other projects as well moving forward.
Marble is a really soft material you described a good way to make granite tho! For marble start with an off white base coat, wash with black wash lightly, then put big pools of black wash at the top of the surface and let it drip down. This will give natural veins, layer the veins, define the veins with a brush and dark grey paint, then highlight the surfaces without veins.
Lightly in the case of washes usually just means spread it out so it doesn't pool up on a flat surface. but I still generally cover the whole area with it in cases like this.
That is a great way to do it. But I wanted to do a method that doesn't involve an air brush or rattle can. Just because not everyone has the tools for that.
If I may ask an opinion- What do you think of basing in Corax White from the start and then painting the armor pieces individually? I personally dislike the "overpainted" look of the heavy layering of starting from gray and working up to white, and was curious if starting at Corax White spray primer might alleviate some of that.
I personally think corax white primer is one of the worst primers out there. It just doesn't get great coverage so you end up having to use more to get that base color looking right. That said. If you were to base with white you can easily Apply a thinned down wash to the recesses of the white and then do some minor highlighting and it would look ok. I have had success painting my world eaters that way. My general logic with my base color is to use whatever will make the main color easiest to paint. If I didn't use the gold primer I would have used black because it would help the gold look better. Gold is the most abundant color in this paint scheme. So it decides what base color I will prime with.
I have a full tutorial on this miniature. You might find that to be a good answer to your questions. Here is the link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bdQ5EuEpErw.html I am not sure I know what berserker bloodshade is. Could you enlighten me?
These preview boxes definitely give me the vibe of being a lower investment, "testing the waters" sort of quality. I would bet that after the game sells well they will invest in better quality for future launches. This game seems to be launching as more of a board game that could expand into a full wargame rather than jumping directly to full wargame right form the start. Having worked with some of Mantic's other kits I know they can do better.
