If it runs, mod it; if it ticks, overclock it! I'm passionate about Jesus, giant scale RC planes, FPV, engines, electric motors, RF, PCs, modding, & my wife & kids
Have KYB Gas-A-Just all around on my ‘14 Silverado. Unfortunately a trip from FL panhandle to east Tennessee made the RR start to leak, but I-59 from Fort Payne, AL to the Georgia line is really rough in the right lane. Lucky it’s a rear instead of one of the front strut assemblies
Then u need a bigger internal piston from a monotube shocks. Switch to bilstein B6/4600. With 46mm digressive piston. They will ride better and u will have better control.
The Ford 3.5L EcoBoost engine has evolved significantly over the years. The earlier models, specifically from 2011-2012, featured a 3-holed intercooler and were designed without a mechanical vacuum pump. Instead, the vacuum pump was positioned behind the driver-side headlight. These models also had blow-off valves on the side of each turbo. By 2013, Ford had revamped this setup, introducing a 4-holed intercooler coupled with an electric blow-off valve directly attached to it. These updates were part of broader efforts to enhance performance and address challenges like carbon buildup-a common issue in engines with direct fuel injection systems. This buildup could lead to misfiring and rough idling, among other problems. To manage this, solutions such as using a catch can or opting for professional cleaning methods like walnut blasting are often recommended, though they do come at a cost. These changes not only boosted performance but also altered how maintenance and repairs are approached, due to the new structural and functional components in the engine. This evolution reflects Ford’s commitment to improving their vehicle’s efficiency and reliability, adapting new technologies to enhance the driving experience. (Supposedly) 😂😂
I should have followed-up earlier. I dropped ~6.5C after doing this under 100% core load, but also gained more clock speed and long holding of clocks, so the difference is actually much more than that. Currently my 24x7 setup after weeks of overclocking and stress testing is: 6.2x3/6.0x2/5.9x3 on P-cores + 4.6 E-cores + 5.0 ring and I’m not thermal throttling anymore, even at these insane speeds and voltages. 💪 I pull back to 5.8ghz on all p cores at the end of a 10 minute r23 session.
Put a Noco Genius 5 on car battery that was showing about 8 volts. I did not charge it but instead put it into repair mode. Came back a couple days later the battery read .025 on a voltmeter. I thought the multimeter was wrong. It was not. Question is what the Noco not-so-genius do to kill this battery deader than dead.
You’re supposed to charge it fully first, then use the repair mode on it to pulse current through it, as per the instructions. This knocks off the sulfates. The reason it was dead is because repair mode only lasts 4 hours or so, then turns off. Not sure why it would have drained other than maybe the battery was powering the tiny led light on the charger at that point. Do a full charge, then top up a second time, then do a repair on it.
Just got one of these lathes and am having issues with getting it to cut nicely on steel. How much of a difference did the U-channel upgrade make? Thinking of doing the same thing. Thanks!
It added a lot of rigidity when I’m taking deep cuts in steel, and harder steels. But to be honest by far the biggest difference was to tear down all the cross slide assembly, clean it, oil it and reassemble it then spend a couple hours properly adjusting the gibs on each slide. That took out 70% of the original flexing I had. The heavy u-channel base helped about another 20% and the final 10% was tearing down the whole machine, lubjng and perfectly adjusting everything. Even the spindle bearings’ side load, lead screw, all gearing, etc. I also made some electronics tweaks, but that’s beyond the scope of this portion. Hope that helps!
I can easily take .040” deep cuts in grade 8 steel now now problem. It’s crazy how much difference it makes to take care of all the little things, because added together, it makes a massive difference. I’m also using 3/8” tooling and carbide when I’m taking those deep cuts in hard steels.
It does revive batteries. I have the genius 5 and anytime I’m working on my vehicle for a few hours I’ll pull the battery cables off and plug in the NOCO on repair mode to keep the battery desulfated. I bought a used truck with a weak battery and the noco revived the battery so well I drove it for another 2 years before i finally felt like the battery was done. It extends the life of your battery.
@@shannonsiskwithout actually SHOWING that it can start a car, we can't actually KNOW that it's repaired the battery. You don't show it in your video :(
Has anyone experienced a “Low Oil Pressure” dash warning that this issue solved it? I have these issues plus the dash warning. Low oil pressure light is only at idle and a slight rev boosts pressure back to normal. Have been dreading timing chain, cam doodads, and possibly oil pump itself… 166k miles on a 2013. Regretting the pass up of a 5.0 😢
Hi I had the same oil preasure light on 2014, after a week it has gone away, they say the oil preasure sensor is the issue, about a 25 dollar part, I bought it but have not installed yet.
Very interesting, I was curious as to how repair mode works on the Noco Genius 5 and 10 chargers, it must use voltage spikes pulses. I was also looking at a Pulse Tech Charger that uses a patented frequency to desulfate batteries, but I am not sure if it will charge a dead battery like the Noco Genius chargers can in force mode. How is the battery you charged holding up, have you done a cold cracking amp load test on it?
100%! If I had a scope I’d have thrown it on there to check out the waveform. The battery I repaired here with this method is still going strong! I have upped my game since this video and have proper load testers now to check IR, CCA, as well as testing cell electrolyte health with a battery hydrometer. I’ve restored several “dead” batteries over the past couple years since posting this and they’re all in service working great. I do several other things with them however, not just this battery restore/repair of this Noco. 👍
Btw, I’m currently scratching my head trying to find a softer aluminum oxide grinding wheel for sharpening HSS tooling than these grey ones. I’ve tried 3 different brands and all of them are too hard. They overheat the HSS in a matter of seconds, and I’m dunking every 5-7 seconds even. I constantly and diamond trueing them but they stop producing sparks and start just scuffing the HSS after about 20 seconds of use which I think is because they’re too hard. Trying to source a softer white wheel that will work for HSS is no easy feat here in Canada! The last HSS bit took me 2.5 hours to fully grind all angles on with 36 grit grey… :( Works amazing though!
Try Busy Bee or Lee Valley for white aluminum oxide wheels. Also you could look for industrial supply companies in your area. What type of grinder are you using? I've been using standard grey wheels for decades to sharpen HHS and tool steel without issue.
Thanks for the suggestions! Lee Valley is a good idea. I’ll check with Greggs and a few other places like Acklands Grainger too. I’m using a brand new 6” Dewalt bench grinder I just picked up, typical 3450rpm or whatever they are. Thanks again!
Thanks for the kind words! The new handle I was turning here works great! Tapered it on the first 1/3rd and threaded the tip, chamfered the 90’s and buffed it up pretty. :) Ya I’m totally loving it so far. Bought it used off a guy for cheap with a bunch of tooling he threw in. I tore down the entire machine (twice) and greased/lubed/ tightened/straightened and optimized every single point. Added some Mail-spec bearing oil into the sealed spindle bearings, greased and set all headstock gear lash and gear change side as well. By far the biggest rigidity differences were made by diamond honing all the slide surfaces (especially the bottom rails) & trueing-up all gib spacers, and then precisely adjusting all gibs rod nut angles to remove backlash. Then mounted it all to a 25” x 1/4” steel channel. Immediately noticed a huge upgrade in rigidity and surface finish. I also trued up the 3 jaw chuck via dial indicator and got it to less than 0.0015” of runout which is pretty good. Next I’m going to replace the 3” chuck with a 5” or possibly 4” and adapter backplate. I’m sure I could learn a lot from you and all your valuable experience on the larger lathes! Thanks for the comments and I hope you enjoy your new mini to mess with inside. That’s a good idea to be honest! 👍
Well your new mini lathe looks quite good, and works well. I bought my first lathe for use at home in 1990, and have had much larger lathes at home since 1992. But just lately I decided to downsize some of my machines so I bought one of these mini lathes for use in the house where it sits in the living room so I can fiddle with something mechanical when I'm stuck indoors and cannot escape to the workshop, I've had it for less than a week. I remember when they first appeared here in the UK, over 25 years ago I think. Chester Machine Tools were the first to offer them here, and they were more expensive back then than they are now, even though prices have risen in the last 4 years. Thankfully China are still making them. Anyway, I hope your new lathe gives you many years of good service, or at least until you decide to get yourself a larger one.
Excellent tutorial, thank you! Just tracked down some smoke to that area, from under the truck saw some drips off that component that you just taught me is the vacuum pump and now need to decide if I have it in me to squeeze my arms down the back of this thing and not hate myself half way through for not paying someone with more time and experience lol. Thanks again!
Once you’ve done it you’ll realize it wasn’t as bad of a job as it sounds, though it is a very tight squeeze. I’ve actually had mine off twice (second time unrelated but when replacing my exhaust manifolds, I had to remove it to install new turbo feed lines from behind it). That time I had the wheel well off already (as well as turbo & exhaust manifold off) and it was actually just as awkward to remove the vacuum pump from this angle. Definitely go from above the the engine as I show in this video and save yourself the time. 👍
I had the same problem and Ford dealership had problems stopping the leak. This problem is an engineered problem. The vacuum pump is literally 2 inches away from the turbo and exhaust manifold which causes massive amount of heat cycles put onto the rubber gasket the seals the vacuum pump to the head of the engine. This should be a recall.
100%. I’m surprised they had trouble, but knowing what the issue is, I’m sure the service bulletin procedure doesn’t detail adding gasket maker on the two metal “steps” near the o-ring seat. They’re the two places that start leaking first once the o-ring has hardened and stopped sealing.
Jesus Christ tell me another story. The repair was to buy a new one. Actually what the problem is… what the problem is.. what the problem is.. 1 hour later. I need a new one.
Thank you for the test. I was curious about that, but don't have any dead batteries, and I hope wouldn't in the nearest future. You got me laughing measuring the tester line. Made my day
I had a model older than this one that I love. My sister has difficulty with tools that are too heavy and she actually loved mine and found it easy to use ru-vid.comUgkx_rBCFuDW1zD6blTGhLkvAkxU657uR_lG . This is a newer model but was even lighter which she really appreciates. She enjoys it and I no longer have to go to her house to trim as she can handle it fine. Haven't used it enough to comment on the battery life but lithium batteries last longer than the old style. Being cordless makes it easy to trim the far edges of the property. The entire yard can be trimmed with one charged battery.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ru-vid.comUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
The most lousy lawnmower our family has ever purchased. Got a Toro Recycler in 2010 and have had nothing but problems. IT NEVER WORKED GOOD FROM THE TIME WE BOUGHT IT NEW AND CAREFULLY TOOK IT OUT OF THE BOX, even after checking the filter, checking and replacing the oil, changing the blade. All it did was bog down and stall and leave clumps of grass. It guzzled gas like no tomorrow and blew the exhaust in the face of the person using the mower. Lousy engineering. Poor quality. It would not cut through tall wet grass without stalling and both of our craftsman mowers could do that no problem whatsoever.😂
I work on mowers daily, these Briggs and Stratton flat heads are hands down the best engine toro ever put on these. I still got my 2010 personal pace toro recyler 20332. Fairly flawless setup, one flaw with the early models is they had plastic pinion gear on steel drive gears for the self propelled.. To be fair the mower had probably 800 hours on it. I'm still amazed on still on original piston rings and crank.... Well over 1000 hours. It's just know starting to knock ever so slightly but with the cost of mowers now... And how expensive they got.....KEEP THIS MOWER AS LONG AS YOU CAN! Keep up on oil changes, clean air filter and these flat heads just keep running along.
We have the 20332 for at least 10 years always taken care of it new gas every year, always checked oil, (ran out of oil once while using acouple years ago), always changed air filter when dirty. It has ran great for all these years! Last year we failed to replace air filter on time. This year we had trouble it would stall out, especially in higher grass. Things i noticed that i never noticed before all the years we had it and it was running good was; the idle sounded higher than usual, and i heard a vibrating sound coming from the top of the mower. The color of the oil was very dark so we tipped it and drained out oil and gas but must have tipped it wrong cause a little of the new oil came threw the air filter holes. I let it sit a week and put in new oil and gas and sprayed the holes with started fluid a few times. It ran good for about a day or two then would stall out. Took it to a local guy in the neighborhood that fixes mowers. He cleaned the carborator, replaced the blade, replaced the spark plug and checked fuel line. We got it back it ran for about 20 minutes then as soon as it hit higher grass stalled out and wont start now. I also still hear the vibrating sound from the top of the mower. And also the pull rope i sticking and now stuck and wont pull at all, and we never had a problem with the pull cord before. We paid $90 for the repairs and paid $30 for the new blade. Really dont want to put any more money into it, its a shame they still dont sell this model it ran great for 10 years. Do you know what might be wrong with it? I do remember running over some strips of clear tape from cardboard that we are using as mulch in our landscaping. Could that have gotten stuck underneath inside the mower where we cant see and be slowing down the blade or motor? And if not, is there another newer Toro for sale that compares to the 20332? The review i been reading for all the Toros have alot of bad reviews.
@@skero7359 trying to pin point something over the internet is tough. My first thought would be flat worn out internal parts of the engine if your starting to hear a "knock" and increased vibration, loss of power and stalling. Sounds to me it's in need of new engine parts. Worn piston rings or even worse seized or partially seized are likey the culprit. Take the spark plug out and it should be super easy to pull, if it's still ANY difficult to attempt to pull, engine is worn and your looking at 2-300 to repair. OR it very well could be your pull start also! Again not seeing it in front of me it's hard to tell ya. All this can be done yourself with basic tools. Most rachet sets will have a specific spark plug socket that had a piece of rubber in it. If not you should have enough room to get a wrench on it to loosen it. Another thing to check is if something got wedged up underneath to see if something physically is causing resistance on the output shaft. I would honestly go with another toro that has this same engine. I belive they stopped making it 2016. If your wanting brand new..... Your going to be a bit disappointed. Honda would be my first go to choice. However they are now as of 9/2023 no longer making push mowers so parts availability long term will be an issue. I would go find a lightly used toro like the one you had. They are all over the place and better quality compared the newer ones that are close to $500 after tax!! It's a crap time to buy one. Everyone phasing out qaullty machines, making them cheaper but more expensive
Very helpful! I've used HP Elitebooks for years, and always like the ease of opening the older models. When I got an Elitebook 840 G3, I was a bit hesitant to open it up, without first checking out some videos. Yours was the best, and clearest. I would've missed that tricky screw that hides under the SD Card slot. Thank You! 💯
You make a Great Teacher! Well Explained and Demonstrated. I could not get the back off my Elitebook. I did not see the screw on the side by the Dust cover!! Now i do!! Many thanks I can replace my Battery now. Very Grateful. Andy in the UK.
Yyc, combine that with a city fresh water back flow valve and heating hot water from 6 degrees to 60 in your hot water tank…. Most homes will have over pressure issues. I was blowing part the toilet tank valve and humidifier each year until I installed a pressure reservoir. A city water pressure regulator wasn’t enough due to the pressure build when the water heater would kick on after pouring a bath and not using the water taps.
where did you order your part, my one i just open same problem as yours the hole is broken so water is keep flowing. would you tell me here in reply where to find that part and ?
My water pressure isn't as high as yours, but thanks for the tutorial. I had no water running, with your help I cleaned it out and things work fine. Thanks., also you can get a replacement unit from Amazon for around $30
