I had to stop working on Corvettes, as a natural tinkerer I got out a 1949 Hudson Engine I bought in 1977 that never ran. I fixed it and bought more old A.C. Gilbert S Gauge American Flyer trains. Then I had requests for videos to the processes to repair the old trains. Then I found TMCC boards from ERR and converted an engine. Then I found MTH DCS and O Gauge PS 2 upgrade kits. Then I bought a tiny 3D Printer, then I invented a 3D Printable Smoke Assembly for non smoke Flyer Steam engines. Then I bought a larger 3D printer and a CAD application and produced Fireboxes, Trucks, and other Flyer upgrades. Wow what a transformation to these great old trains. this channel is an ongoing collection of my work on the old Flyer Trains. I have help from 2 imaginary friends, Frank N. Stein (Mechanical) and Ein Stein (Digital), the Stein Brothers, and I have an adopted younger brother in South Africa. All we want to do to help American Flyer users enjoy their beautiful trains more. Do you have ?
It was the lowest cost 1/2 drill chuck and cast iron frame. All I need to do is rough out some holes, so the DIY CNC Mini Mill can cut out the final shape. I hope to complete all my RIB Chassis this fall and refine the sound boards. Now that we have a AWPU Scheme that works, DC Field Replacement, Smart Smoke and Puff & Chuff plus a few Body parts like Firebox Bulkhead, Ash Pan, Tender Chassis, Tender Bodies. Plus a new Diesel engine assembly with DC Fields. Hopefully New Metal Chassis and even better engine models, 2x2x2x2 and 3x3x3x3, and my Dream Build, Snow Piercer!
I'm a fan of electric train 🚃 sets. I own a Bachmann, which I bought circa 2013. Not like train sets from the good old days, but I like it anyway. Always periodically oil 🛢 your motor bearings. DO NOT, however, clean your tracks and train wheels with steel wool. The particles will become attracted to the magnets 🧲 in the motor and ruin it. ALWAYS use a rubber eraser that the hobby shop sells (a rubber pencil ✏️ eraser will also work), but always remember to vacuum, or blow all the rubber particles away, to avoid possible damage to your locomotives 🚂. Just subbed 😉!! Your friend, Jeff!!
I have been admiring your roller test stand. Do you sell the plans for it somewhere? Also, do you sell the pc boards you are using to make these videos? Thanks,
@@DennisJanssen-d9m yes well we have the rollers on Cults. Both S and O. The PCBs we designed and tested. I have a friend that assembles for me and he can prove you price and availability. I will pass on your email is like. D
My phone that I use for the camera had runout of memory space, sorry about the abrupt cut off. I do feel very good about all the lessons learned here. Some where learned and forgotten, but I have a paper record and log and i am summarizing all the results every night so I can share it when the time comes. I am ready to modify all the smokes LIDs Vintage and 3D Printed with these key setups: Input Voltage 8VDC, Set Thermistor Sensor rearward toward the Fan Air inlet to the smoke box. (instant Temp control), target R2 Value 180-220 Ohms with this 20K Thermistor. Pack rock wool in the base of the Smoke box with Angel Hair curled up on top. (Not wound around the heater, but with tail routing down under the rock wool to help wicking process. Center the Heater in the Smoke box cavity, Use PETG to print the smoke housing and anneal the housing at 120C for 20 minutes to get maximum heat resistance. It is working really good with these mods and changed in assembly and setup. More later, Smoke em if you got 'em. D
You can add a small ceramic cap across the motor to reduce HF noise, and try using another mosfet (N/P pair or driver) to short the motor terminals to bring it to a quick stop. A relay may be easier to wire to try it out. Also, if the motor only has to spin in one direction, consider using a flyback diode. Edit: For a motor this size, you should be able to get away with three parts. An N and P channel fet, and a 10k pulldown resistor. Wire one lead of the motor to the positive supply and the P-channel source. The other motor terminal goes to both the P-drain and N-drain. The N channel source goes to ground, and the gates of both fets are wired together to your switch (which is then connected to power). The resistor goes across the N channel fet from gate to source (ground) to prevent it from turning on accidentally. In a nutshell, the P-fet needs a positive voltage on the gate to turn off, while the N-fet needs one to turn on. While the switch is off, the P-fet is on, and it connects both sides of the motor to the positive rail, effectively shorting them out. Press the switch, and the P-fet turns off to remove the short, and the N-fet connects the other side of the motor to ground at the same time. The pulldown resistor simultaneously pulls both gates low, ensuring they are not triggered by noise. Adding a flyback diode across the motor will help protect the P-fet, but it has an internal diode so it may not be strictly necessary. Just like a relay coil, turning off the motor will cause an inductive voltage spike that can damage other components, so a diode in reverse polarity across the terminals gives a safe path for the current to flow.
Thank You so much for your feedback I will study it thoroughly and try to test some of the suggestions. Please keep watching and commnet at will, great to get input from users. D
I have an axle and bearing that seem to be able to be fitted. I want to try one engine. Its a distraction frankly, but this chassis was worn out. I either set it aside and mill a slot in another chassis or take a shot at getting the ball bearing worked out. Meanwhile I have lots of 3D parts to print which I can do at the same time. So as I am building the kits boxes up, I could try one axle and wheel set. Thinking the drive Axle will be the hardest because the drive gear needs a strong press fit to work. Unless I can figure out a hub and lock nut approach. So its a test lets say that. A few days to verify it can work or not. If not then I need to get new bushing pressed. I have Ball Bearings in the armature assembly, and it lowers the amp draw! So promising! Later, D
I have delivered a 5 engine set of parts for a Customer. With that funding I found a Mini highly accurate Drill Press that is perfect for rough cutting the gear slot in the RIB chassis and Prepping the Chassis for Ball Bearings. I also have found a weakness in my Mini Mill that will require the main housing holding the Dremel to be redesigned with an improved clamping arrangement. I have the concept I need to reduce to CAD mods to the existing adaptor. Plus my X axis Fixed Nut has more backlash than is acceptable. So it need to fix up a new Drive nut which means a complete tear down and reassembly. So all this lost time puts me way back without a backup. That way the Mini Drill Press in on my list of required tools. I will be assembling subassemblies like the smoke, the Puff & Chuff the Ash Pad and Firebox and the tender chassis, trucks and Body which are all required at some point for all 4 of the new kits, so I can shuffle work around to set up time for the mill Rebuild. I just don;t want to see multiple months go by. A week or so I can deal with, And once the Mill is fixed the chassis work will go fast. Not worried, Dennis
I ordered the new drill press. 2 weeks to get it. To be used on the rough cut of the slot, drilling axle holes out for ball bearing, and drilling out blocks of aluminum for new engine chassis. The mini CNC Mill will be used for final cuts and finishing cuts. This will speed up chassis prep and provide a better end product with a future.
I can't believe that the new chassis is going to have ball bearings and and all the latest and the greatest. I have to go pee over this new revolations oly Cow Batman, or I should say Dr. Franentrain
Stay calm and tell me what are doing with that K5??? Which Tender do you want on your Royal Blue. I have one request for a 3D Royal Blue Tender with extended range to fit the fan and speaker as on my custom 2104 Tender. I think the Hudson Tender or the actual 2014 Tender could be used and a Body Made like the K5 we did last month. What do you think? D
@@jaybrooks1098 Maybe you could but I can not. We are putting the scope on the tracks right. Is there a tiny device that does that? I have no idea. If can share your thoughts I will order parts and try it. Open to any and all better ideas. I don't know much. D
@@alanb287 Not exactly. I am using the RIB chassis which are not popular. I do have a plan for a custom Aluminum chassis with several prototypes and a completely 3D Printed Chassis. Both need more development. I should not have used the Brass Button chassis perhaps. I have several later versions that are not brass button and still no smoke Gear slot. But like my first Fan driven Smoke I was cutting up Flyer Smoke housing. I stopped that right away only made 3. Sold 2 and keep one. Then I went into CAD and 3D Printing. There are new metallic filaments so that maybe my next approach. My goal was make the old chassis into the later models. Not destroy a vintage antique. I knew cutting up smoke housings had to to Stop. Only now did I think the Brass Button Chassis were Antiques too. My goal all along was to make a whole new S model train family. But at 74 that seems unlikely at my pace and budget. One of the early Flyer trains came out as a kit to assemble. That was my objective for the chassis. Then offer bodies or allow buyers to design and build their own by publishing all the specs and mounting points in a CAD ready format. I had made a 3D printed interface template that I would give out the .STL so others could print it build using it as the guide. Then their new body would fit on our chassis. Lots thoughts but very slow to act. D
@@user-mg6ix6sl9g I am printing some the required part's every day. Some batch prints take hours to complete. I need some digital parts too. Placing that order soon. Then it's all in the assembly.
@@user-mg6ix6sl9g it's a journey I truly love American Flyer even the Prewar are growing on me. I saw a few things I wanted make better. Bit by bit I have touched about every element of these wonderful engines. Not to just change them but to add function and feature is a cost effective way. This is a key requirement for most of the Prewar Flyer engine and the early years of the postwar Flyer that AC Gilbert built. But I also made a unique universal Smoke assembly with adaptors for all the different models, even Diesels, rolling stock and building.
@@user-mg6ix6sl9g yes Lionel o Guage track but since it's the original American Flyer the Bodies are S scale and the chassis casting are for the exact same motor and body mounting. The body shells are identical to Flyer stream lined Pacific, Northern, Hudson are all the same. So using their Chassis and wheel spacing I have installed my DC field, NY Royal Blue smoke adaptor and 3D Printed smoke. And all the motor control PCB work. Sound system and volt regulator. I think I can Mill out the same slot and fit this P&C assembly as well. It's crazy.
You should have a rotary valve instead of fan pulses because as per your result you won’t get a pulse. You could do something gating the smoke instead as that would give you better control vs fighting with momentum of the smoke.
I looked up rotary valve but di dnot see anything useful. I did make a system once that included a drum driven by the Motor worm and on the drum was a pie shaped brass plate actually 2 of them, 180 degrees opposed. Then i have reverse fingers mounted that had a a trigger sensor wired to them so that when they had continuity the sensor would appeared closed and the sound or puff would execute. I will try to find that old video maybe that is close to your idea of a rotary valve. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CgGI_kyk9nw.htmlsi=eJHyrvfijpY49IsN
Here is the better video of a Trigger design I had 2 years ago, but abandoned. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eV-UGWCsxkk.htmlsi=Vz5kiTN8ciGSR6ZX
@@DennisMurphey what I mean is a spinning disk that blocks and allows the smoke through should be as simple as possible the speed of the train directly correlates to the speed of the valve. * note I’m talking a spinning plate over the exhaust with a few tuned holes in it that pass and no pass the smoke
That was me throwing mud on the wall. I have asked Robert to put his eyes on it and he is building his own test set up to help. He has Flyer trains too, very nice. D
@@jockellis factory original with body putty to fill them in then painted white. Leon made them for this engine. We are building a tribute to my Corvette a 2014 Stingray with white wheels. That was his idea. The whole engine is his idea. The was my old Royal Blue. D
Now Hudsons! Oh my goodness! That will be Great. Those look really good too! When I get the layout ever started, I want a turntable and all these locomotives. They would look Great around it! Thank You for another Locomotive that would make a very impressive addition to the Royal Blues.
One isue might be that the original steel chassis is probably .025 thick and your s is .100. you might have to eliminate the entire boss on the truck pivot or somehow reverse what is stamped in the Flyer chassis on to yours.
Irs not as bad as it looks, My tender sides frame are thinner and actually look like the tender is higher off the deck is only 1 or 2 mm taller. We will be just fine I can raise my top edge to better match the Vintage stuff, not a big deal. Dennis
Hey, loved the vibe🙌! I'm not really sure if it is the best time to ask but, I was wondering if I could help you create a better distribution by working on post-production like better storytelling through Edits, Keywords, think catchy intros and outros, or even some engaging short clips! Would love to chat if you're interested and keep creating good content:)
I appreciate your input but have to tell you, I am researching and designing trains 110% of the time. My videos are about as good as I can do and still continue the work i have to do. My vision is way out ahead of the progress I can make and I am 74 years olds. I do all this for the hobby. It is not a business. I am a great story teller and could dictate to a video or slides but I am to slow to craft it all. Tell you what I have a Powerpoint Slide concept. I could send to you to see what you can do. If you want. D
Coming along 2nd print due in 15 minutes had to retweak the width 2 mm. Should be a great platform for NGS to these RIB Hudson's which you can find cheap .in ruff shape. They make great NGS upgrades. Smoke Fan Driven, Digitial Sounds, DC Fields, Puff Smoke and All Wheel Pick Ups oh yeah.
I have three folks that have agreed to buy the Royal Blue 350 Next Generation S (NGS) Kit as I have shared with you for the 2014 Royal Blue 350 Conversion and the custom Extended Tender Chassis. I will post a complete Kit parts list in a new Video this week so it is crystal clear what is includes. 1. Leon 350 Royal Blue, Post War Classic Gilbert Flyer S 2. Rodney 350 Royal Blue, Post War Classic Gilbert Flyer S 3. Tim L. PreWar O Gauge Pacific (using Vintage Trucks and 3 rail pickup) One kit each. If you want one and you are not here yet let me know I need to get a list so I order enough parts. Some are asking NGS parts but not a whole engine kit. Fine. We have the Motor Control Board for DC Motors using Flyer reverse logic F-N-R-N. Includes the Power Distribution Board and we can make them both for $40. The 4 wheel All Wheel Pick Up are also available with the wire pickup. The 6 Wheel All Wheel Pick Up is available with the Grass Eyelet wired pickup. we have two types of 6 wheel Side Frames , Hudson/Northern or Coil Spring We can provided Smoke Lids for Vintage Flyer Smoke Housings with temperature controlled Smart Smoke, It requires a Volt Regulator (Buck Board) taking DC from the PDB. As an Option we have a Chuff Sound board that we can add for additional sounds. It is triggered by a Reed Switch We also have a Fan Driven 3D Printed Smoke with adaptor to fit Standard Flyer Steam Engines. This Fan driven smoke requires a Puff Controller. This is a 3D Adaptor designed to bolt on to the top of the DC Field Housing. And uses a Special Smoke Gear fitted onto the factory Smoke Gear Boss. The Puff &N Chuff Process is controlled by a small PC Board that takes DC power off the PDB and includes two Synchronized trigger devices one for Puff Pulse and One for Digital Chuff Sounds. I can answer any questions and will entertain about any project ideas although I have a long list of projects already. A teammate Andy has helped al ot with designs but he has been busy with his work and he is NOT retired. Dan has been very helpful in the PCB assembly and he may take on more PCBs soon. I will share the 3D Print files as you can now get some of the 2014 350 parts on Thingiverse. The Rolling Road is listed on Cults. I am working on complete Bill Of Material lists so you all can order components we use and them print the parts for your own Assembly. I don't have a web site and wanted to try to find a way to use Facebook or some other tool to have a home base we can go to and work together. Take Care out there and Keep Chugging. Dennis
Dennis, some steam engines dd have air hrns instead of whistles. I think that would be a great option if it's possable to create New youk Central Niagras , and Souther Pacific Daylight Northerns had them I am sure that the Union Pacific used air horns on some their steam locomotives,
I think both have their strengths. If someone isn’t to mechanically inclined then they can make their own choices. The new look great but so did the original design. As long as you don’t do everything and just give us the input you have and help we and I included myself can take your opinions and make some awesome trains. Thank You.
Having worked with HO and S gauge for over 50 years, I think your original design with the wrapped spring wire that contacted the axle between the axle spacer and wheels was the best. It's been used for HO on both tenders and locomotives for years.
I think I may have to keep them both around, each has a place. D I too started my Flyer experience some time ago! Repairing a 283 in the late 50s. I ran that old thing for ever.
I can't wait untill reeive them, that will bemy ultimut test Dennis. It trully looks very promibing and I think a caveman can do it. I really mean that honestly.
OK I think I will change the brass plate for some thick wire be easier to presolder then assemble is that solder connection not a think flat plate. Then i can say it all and understood. Clean up the Files and add the detailed instructions. I do appreciate all the feedback. It helps when I know folks are out there. Thank You
Wow, some very cool R&D! I’m always amazed! I need to get my 3D printer up and running again. I messed up the build plate when I went to the Philippines for a month. Left it sitting in Alcohol and it all evaporated . What a dummy. Thanks for sharing! Chris
I would think that the connections at the eyelets should be soldered. Can the wire be soldered to the eyelets and the holes be enlarged so that the eyelets can be glued in place? Also, what size eyelets are being used? Thank you for sharing.
@@flyerjunction agreed! All night worrying about it. Came up with several variations. The Eyelet end should be soldered, neatly. I already added a extra space for the solder joint in the Eyelet hole. A single joint works well. The issue was the middle joint on the 6 wheel sideframe. Now thinking a 4x40 threaded insert or maybe 2x56 insert at the top of the center axle location. Bring all the Eyelet wires up to that point and screw in. With one long flex wire 22Ga going up to the tender. Then I went back to the silver wire method. Solder wire to the Eyelet press Eyelet in place have a notch to press the wire flush and up till it clears the wheel then loop it over to the oriental thin wire mounting hole on the pivot frame. Form a loop and screw it down there. Then add a long flex wire as we have on the silver wire setup. Or link all the eyelets leads to one spot on the side frame then bring that power over the the pivot frame. 3 or 4 key factors in play. 1. Axle power transfer 2. MultiAxle power junction 3. Side frame power out 4. Robust power hook up to tender electronics. As I study each key factor. I favor a hard robust joint. 1. Solder 2 Screw 3 Mechanical Junction Also several guidelines, 4 Amps, 22 GA wire, wheel clearance, strong connections, ease of fabrication, ease of assembly and ease of integration to Engine systems. And performance goals; must work reliably, min power loss, minimum wear and stress. All these this fly around in my head and have been for nearly a week. Most times 3 days is all I need to solve a problem. But this tiny issue nearly insignificant to grand scheme is killing me. I always realize why and how I ended up where I was with the silver wire. Yes tricky to fab and assemble but pretty well tics off all the needs and worries. Once it's fabricated and assembled.. Getting from wheel to tender power distribution must be reliable above all else. If fab is tricky so be it. If assembly is awkward so be it. But always within reason. It's a frickin' toy train, really. My brain just can't let go as I search for that one best way. It's a gift and a curse. D
@@DennisMurphey Hey, you have been in engineering for many years so that is what you do. I think you are on the right track with a mechanical connection at the truck going to the tender as we all know that wires moving around, up and down and back and forth eventually fail. We have all replaced wires between the locomotive and tenders of our trains.
Well I did some doodling at breakfast and went down with a few more options. Then I stared at the CAD file and make a copy and started to cut and draw more stuff on it. I realized the complexity of the part does NOT matter. It is just a form to hang the bits on and get the job done. So I went toward the deep end of detail and added a small piece of PSB to be a hub for the three Eyelet wires. Then I added a controlled outlet for the pickup wire. It just finished printing so I will return the NGS Round House and see what I can gin up. D
It will work need some fine tuning but I think we have it now. Added a little soldering pad in the side frame to simplify the assembly. Build one and the energy flow was perfect. Need to optimize the steps to build it up. Glue halves together well 1st. Then wire it up. Printing two more test pads with first mods. Whew ! Finally something I like on all aspects. D
@@alanb287 this is not the original tender, but I can say from experience and my layout these assemblies are much more robust thru switches, turns and dirty old Vintage classic Flyer track. I am so busy I don't clean my track often nor do I get service the tender wheels regularly. So I really see better operation. Especially when I stuff the tender and engine with 8 PC Boards digital control for reverse, sound. Smoke heat and smoke Puff supported by 2 AC to DC converters and 3 DC Volt regulators. So my engines thrive better with AWPU trucks. All the vintage engines would stop, Flicker, slow down the old reverse unit would drop out all the time especially when going through switches. I did this work to help me keep my own engines running smoother and they are. D
The new truck designee is the way to go, the bus wires do not interfear with the wheels allowing the wheels to roll without any thing causing any binding /friction on the back of the wheels.
No I don't need insulated wore but it just felt right. I better need the 22 ga wire to make sure all the little electrons are getting up to the tender. I thought about stripping 22 GA wire i have and gluing into the groove and soldering it to the Brass Bushing. But I am not done thinking about it.
I want a few kits for my Hudson' and northern models as soon as the kits are available> I wish I had a place for a 3D printer , but my home is not that large. I HAVE TO DEPEND ON YOUR SKILLS for the parts.
I will send one kit real soon, then follow up with whatever you need based on the engine model. I can test fit all but the switchers. Sold all mine in pinch. D
This one of the best ways to coney power to all the axles on the truck so darn cool . it seems though it still a little labor intensive, but far better than anything available now, and your the only manufacturer doing this as of now. I;m just waiting for your final production model to become available.
This could the the inner plate for all the customizers out there, They can fabricate the outer plate to look like whatever and super glue it onto this prefabricated power pick up component. !?!?!?
All you guys help me to get to a better solution., My only frustration is my limited time and how long it takes to get progress. I need to squeeze for hours out of a day. But my Poor Wife really needs me to help her get her work done so it is what it is. Thank You for pushing me to a better outcome. We learn new things every day don't we.
