That was my problem but with both tanks took the bed off install two new pumps, I don’t care I am pushing 75 years old and handicap and took me almost a week to do the job but it works perfect now I can chase that rich widow woman that lives down the street, thanks for the information to do the job
Yeah brother.... I'd been there never got the tee shirt and coke deal.LOL, However my license did & are actively suspended for the next 5 years over that day. Wish I knew all this then. Keep up the good info. Be safe
The problem is the OEM factory pumps are known for those check valves to go bad and so Ford made two inline valves (PN Genuine Ford Connector 1L3Z-9J274-BA) to fix this issue. Some people have them and some people don't just depends at the time of the recall if the vehicle was taken in. I had/have this same issue with my 93 f150 with the 4.9 L. I realized very recently that when I had replaced both sending units that I damaged one of the valves on the rear tank (which is my tank that is overflowing). So if you get that part, put it on the return coupling on the tank you're having issues than that should fix it. Recall # is 01l008000.
So the front tank needs a double check valve. The front tank pump needs a check valve on the inlet to the pump. So that when the front pump is off the ceck valve will stop the backflow through the pump. Same thing on the back tank as well the pump will need to be on the live pressure line like the front one with a valve to block the pressure from the other pump pushing gas back into the tank through the pump. The valve on the pressure side of the pump should open and close to let the return gas back into the appropriate tank if its working correctly on both pumps.
With all due respect this guy changed nearly every possible thing the belt touches and the sound kept coming back after 1-2 months. I'd like to see a follow up to this video 1-2 months later to see if the sound came back again. I have a '94 F-150, 4.9 liter straight 6 and have the same problem. The day before the problem presented itself I was going to replace the upper radiator hose, but decided to do it the next day. So I set the new hose on the engine and closed the hood. The next day I'd forgotten about putting the new hose under the hood, fired up the truck and it started making a terrible sound. Turns out the new house got pulled down a bit and the end of it chewed up near the belt tensioner. So I took the new hose out, threw it away and fired up the engine again. Now it was making a chirping noise. This is when the noise started. I noticed that If I took a little pressure off the tensioner, but not enough for the belt to come loose, the sound would go away. Knowing that the tensioner needed to have all its pressure on the belt I decided to replace the pulley, thinking I messed up the bearings inside. That made the noise worse. So I decided to mess around with pressure on the belt pulling the tensioner forward ever so slightly and noticed the belt position moving on the pulley. My thought is that the hose getting drawn in either bent the stud the pulley bolts to or the tensioner body got bent every so slightly as to affect the position of the belt in the pulley. This is my thinking, that the belt is pulling forward at a specific interval and squeaking. I narrowed it down to this and will try to bend the tensioner frame to correct the belt position in the pulley. The chirping occurs at the same time the belt passes a certain point on one of the pulleys, and I'm pretty sure it's the tensioner that's at fault. My 2 cents...
I watched till 5:00,there @hould be a hole on the left under the turnsignal,you have to put a screw driver in to release the wheel,I'll watch the rest to see what you find
I know the video is old but, it helped me a bit. Im going through the same issue with my 95'. My only question is, do you have to time it or do anything with timing after installing the balancer?
Ok… but I just replaced my front pump and now when I’m using my front tank my rear tank overflows AND when I’m using my rear tank I’m getting fuel pumped in my front tank..?? So how could both sending units check valves go at the exact same time..??? 1995 f150 4.9 l Eddie Bauer
It may be possible that the rear is just getting worn out and the front one you just replaced isn't the correct one. ( This may seem crazy, but. It's kinda easier to remove the truck bed to get to them if you have a friend or two that can help lift it off. It really isn't that heavy, even an 8ft bed. It's just 4 bolts holding it down, disconnect the filler neck hoses and unplug the wiring harness for the taillights. I did one of mine that way with just one friend helping to lift it up and back off. Sit it on some saw horses.) I had to do one of mine 3 times before I figured out what was wrong. You can blow into both tubes on the pump, you shouldn't be able to blow through them on either of the two tubes going into the pump.
I think you kind of got it wrong because my 92 that I have the check valves are on the fuel line they put a check valve on the return line on the rear tank in the front tank and it prevents it from filling up the opposite tank
Thanks a lot Sir!! You are a smart cookie! After fixing my tilt steering that won't stay locked in place, I was wondering why the turn signal lever wouldn't enable the tilt. After a lot of thinking, i saw your video. I bent that rod back and it took a lot of pounding. I am just truly amazed that the rod can be bent out of shape inside the column
Thank you for the video! I had to tear into this while replacing the ignition rod actuator and the retaining clips for the tilt steering went flying everywhere! I followed your work and bent that rod as well and fixed 2 problems at once!
Great video! Question: I just replaced rear gas tank which was working; kept everything the same except for tank and filler neck; now car won’t start when I filled her up. Front tank has been unusable, starts up and dies reads empty but rejects gas when I try to fill so I’m not sure if I’m having the check valve issue. I’ve always just used the rear tank and it runs fine. What else could I try to get the car started, I’m going after the schrader valve tomorrow, couldn’t get the cap off
Good video, thanks! To be clear, you only replaced the front tank pump, correct? My ‘94 has the exact same problem. Mine is leaking gas overflow at the filler hose. Maybe I need a new filler hose, that rubber is 28 years old! I will buy an oem replacement pump if they are reasonable and available.
Thánks for illustrative video! I have a F150 1989 4.9 lts dual thank configuration, AND lately hace the dame issue with the front thank overflow when rear thank Is in use. The gas spills over the feeding gas hose after a while use of rear thank. So It could be work yo install an external check Valve on one of the thank out hoses? Thánks for your help!!
I just replaced both my pumps on my 95 and they are filling each other up and causing my gas to run out fast cause they are going back and forth from tank to tank , can anybody give me some advice
@@ebaht7468 I usually use rockauto.com, but you have to be very careful and mindful about which one to get. You have to know for certain what size and type of tank you have, (plastic or steel). The only way to know what size tank you have is either looking it up by the vin or exact model. Or run it dry and fill it up to see how much it takes to fill it up, but I would not advise that if your other tank doesn't work.
Lol. I did about the same thing for awhile, but the fuel gauge didn't work either on my front tank as well as would overflow if using the rear tank so it was always a guessing game on the front.
Unfortunately there is no real way to. Just try blowing into both tubes when you get it, before you even start disassembling anything. You should not be able to blow air through either one
Here's something else i learned messing with the bad fuel pump issue... if you're getting low fuel pressure codes when you replace your pump follow "ford tech makuloco" 's advice and drain the memory on your PCM by jumping your positive battery terminal connected tour battery to your negative battery terminal disconnected from the battery for @ 10 minutes then hook it back up and star yhe engine with everything else turned and let PCM "learn" how to idle t it warms up, then go for a mellow cruise for 10 miles or so and then get it up to highway speed to let your PCM reset your shift points and your fuel trims... it will get rid of any erratic shifting and bad fuel delivery habits the PCM picked up while your truck was throwing codes... it made my truck run and shift alot smoother after I did that !!
I'm having the same issue but on the opposite pump it's overflowing into my rear tank I bought a check valve So I put it on the smaller line going into the front fuel pump correct which direction
can you tell me which brand to buy that has the correct internal check valves for my 1996 f150 5.0l styleside single cab steel 19G side tank? i bought an skp sending unit/pump assembly for $70 and I can blow right through the return pipe on it.
@@jpvjjohnny ok, I thought so, that's the only place I've seen that brand. So it is honestly hard to say. I had the same issue I got the "wrong" pump from Rock Auto and is the one I had shown in the video, which is why I decided to do this video. I would have thought that selecting a 1996 that I would have gotten the correct one from them, but it didn't work out that way. They have so many different brands, it's difficult to be sure you get the correct one. I can tell you that it is very very important to be certain that you get the correct one for the fuel tank size that you have. A 17 gallon pump may fit, but will not sit correctly inside the tank of a 19 gallon tank, or vice versa. If I remember correctly I think I ended up getting a Delphi pump and it was correct. Hope this helps, and good luck, it can be a bit of gamble with them on this one. I use them pretty much for everything, but this one was difficult to figure out on their site.
I replaced the oem pump in my front tank with the SKP pump because the one that was in there had such low fuel pressure and the quantity circuit aways showed empty even if the tank was full to the brim.. now it pumps good pressure and the gas gauge works good, but when i run on the rear tank it dumps fuel to the front quicker than ever... but at least the front tank pumps good so i have to run the front tank down to under half before i can run the rear pump which goes low real quick then back to the front tank til it gets low again, and then only add new fuel to the system in the rear tank. I thought the delphi pumps on there were just the pump body only.. so how do you get the "retainer" (the metal tubes) off of the old pump without breaking something? I figure the front pump will get run alot more with no return line check vave in the pump body, but at least i can figure out my mpg now if i top off the front tank and run it only for 100 miles and then top it off again. Thanks dk Dain your video showed the secret to the trouble... i just wish if you ordered a pump for a 1996 it would be built to match the oem configuration but it is what is... just a quirk a driver will have to learn to work around
Thanks very much for the info. I just replaced both pumps on my 94 F150 and my front tank is transferring the fuel to to the rear. My truck doesn’t have the tank selector valve from factory so this must be the problem as you decried. I’ll pull the bed back off and check. The truck will run but only off the rear tank. Fuel is transferring from the front tank only so must be the wrong pump.
If your front tank is over flowing then your front tank pump assembly is malfunctioning/ which contains those check valves. You could test it by blowing low pressure air through both of the lines like I described, if they leak by then the whole assembly would have to be replaced. There isn't really any way to replace or repair the check valves alone.
