Thank you for the video. Just had this replaced. Mechanic took it out beforehand. Serpent Belt came off, knocked hose off, lost all coolant, damaged raditior blew head gasket, and a tow was needed back to their shop. I got to pay for repair. Good video.
With all due respect this guy changed nearly every possible thing the belt touches and the sound kept coming back after 1-2 months. I'd like to see a follow up to this video 1-2 months later to see if the sound came back again. I have a '94 F-150, 4.9 liter straight 6 and have the same problem. The day before the problem presented itself I was going to replace the upper radiator hose, but decided to do it the next day. So I set the new hose on the engine and closed the hood. The next day I'd forgotten about putting the new hose under the hood, fired up the truck and it started making a terrible sound. Turns out the new house got pulled down a bit and the end of it chewed up near the belt tensioner. So I took the new hose out, threw it away and fired up the engine again. Now it was making a chirping noise. This is when the noise started. I noticed that If I took a little pressure off the tensioner, but not enough for the belt to come loose, the sound would go away. Knowing that the tensioner needed to have all its pressure on the belt I decided to replace the pulley, thinking I messed up the bearings inside. That made the noise worse. So I decided to mess around with pressure on the belt pulling the tensioner forward ever so slightly and noticed the belt position moving on the pulley. My thought is that the hose getting drawn in either bent the stud the pulley bolts to or the tensioner body got bent every so slightly as to affect the position of the belt in the pulley. This is my thinking, that the belt is pulling forward at a specific interval and squeaking. I narrowed it down to this and will try to bend the tensioner frame to correct the belt position in the pulley. The chirping occurs at the same time the belt passes a certain point on one of the pulleys, and I'm pretty sure it's the tensioner that's at fault. My 2 cents...
A trick an ol man told me heat the part @150 in the oven, this expansion allows for smooth install, this , due to extremely tight fit. Also place ice on the shaft as well reduces even more friction.
Yep done that before myself many times on other things I've worked on. However, I wouldn't recommend doing that to this due to the rubber these are made with. Heating it could damage the rubber.
Great video I noticed the same noise two days ago and I pinned in down to the harmonic balancer too but I noticed mine was slightly moving forward and backwards did you notice any movement in yours? And also did it seem to help anything else other than the noise?
I know the video is old but, it helped me a bit. Im going through the same issue with my 95'. My only question is, do you have to time it or do anything with timing after installing the balancer?
Also the balancer was a little bit difficult to get off. But my truck is a manual transmission so I chalk the wheels set the parking brake and left it in gear. If you have an automatic you would most likely have to put a strap wrench of some sort on hold it in place
I rebuilt my engine on my 96, I bought a aftermarket harmonic balancer but the timing marks are to out, the part number is dorman 594-391, where did you bought yours
Quick question what size security screw was that I'd you remember? Would is be your generrtic or something you would have to buy a set to have it? I haven't yet did it to my own. I had the same issue but mine usually tends to be when I restart it from being started before. It was ear peircing this summer though not as bad in the winter.
@@dkdain9002 just didn't wanna take it all apart then have to put it all back together again bc I don't have the bit to take those off. Thanks for the reply back
@@dkdain9002 I figure it would be something like that. Have you had any problem with any of your grounds on the truck. I have two that I know are broken in half the one that suppose to go on the PS on the radiator support then another one on the PS around by the radius arm.
Antonio Alvarez Its been a minute since I've done that , if you're talking about the harmonic balancer crankshaft bolt it was a big pain. I remember the whole truck moving because the crankshaft was turning while I was trying to do it, even with the parking brake engaged. if I remember correctly due to mine being a manual I left it in gear chalked the back tires and use a big breaker bar until came loose.
Dk Dain mine is a automatic and its sure is a pain , I tried it with a beaker bar while holding the balancer in place still didn't manage to come loose. Thank you for the information just wanted to see if I could use the technique you used to get the bolt out
Antonio Alvarez try using a strap wrench on the outside of the balancer, or use a large pipe wrench turned sideways to grip on the iner and outer part of the balancer. if you mare it up...it doesn't matter if you are replacing it.
Dk Dain I will try that next hopefully that will get the bolt loose and I'll be able to fix my truck, Thank you very much for the tips to try, I will comment back if I get it done thank you sir .
Jason Vasquez No, it didn't have anything on it when I took it out, its torqued down to 150 ftlb, so there was no need. Just the sealant on the back of the washer to seal it from oil leaks.
The balancer was a little bit difficult to get off and torqued back on. But my truck is a manual transmission so I chalk the wheels set the parking brake and left it in gear. If you have an automatic you would most likely have to put a strap wrench of some sort on hold it in place. I didn't install new washers. I only use those washers temporarily due to the factory washer being thicker. Since it was thicker I was not able to get the thread started on the Big Bolt, so I used thinner washers to get the thread started and draw the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft farther. Once I was able to get the harmonic balancer on far enough I went back to the original thick washer only with sealant and finish drawing it up and then torque it to spec
Dangit..Gotta 1994 F-150 with the 4.9Ltr...Mine does this noise crap..Replaced tensioner wheel, no luck...replaced tensioner assy. When its cold, it makes that annoying squeaking noise.....When temp outside is warmer, you can still hear it, but not as loud.....AC is inop....Have not replaced any other parts like you did, but, might replace the Harmonic balancer soon.....WOW !!!!...That squeak is annoying.....Also, anyone knows where the engine bay blend door actuator vacuum tube terminates to????...Mines is broke off at the actuator.....I get some heat, but, not smoking hot like its supposed to be....Right now, i have it totally closed with coat hanger wire, but, the heat just gets warm , not hot... Any help will be appreciated...
ToyManFlyer1100 , mine was the same way, more noticeable at colder temperatures. All the heat and air blend doors are vacuum controlled and the lines are in a bundle on the passenger side of the firewall.
Well, Thank you for your reply, Sir.....I will be looking into that bundle....I'm in Texas, but, it don't seem like it, more like Idaho or up north...hahaha!!!! This year it decided to have a winter down here...Temps all over the place ..mostly cold as heck......Cant work on "Betsy Lou" like I want since most of it is outside, no garage to block the cold or north wind.....Next repair is front rotors/bearing replacement and some cooling system work.....Thanks again for the help...Much oblige...😊😊😊!!!!
@@rustedratchetgarage6788... Thanks for your reply....Fancy me finding this thread again...I gotta 1993 Ford f150 5.0 now...This one developed that annoying Squeak a few weeks ago...Uggghh...the "Ford Squeak " is real....😢😢😢
@@rustedratchetgarage6788....Dude....!!!!... I owe you a freeking Beer or two....Just chkd the distro with my Mechanics Stethoscope...Sho' nuff, that sucka squeaking like a flock of birds.. Thanks a bunch, dude....Thanks a bunch....😊😊😊😂😂
Tengo un motor como ese nomas que falla mucho ya le cambie el sensor de oxigeno la válvula yak la bomba de gasolina los inyectores los relevadores bujías cables lavamos el cuerpo de aceleración etc y sigue igual le tengo irle bombeando al acelerador para que acelere y luego se calienta ya no se que sea
Well I guess I didn't realize it would be soooo important to cover and educate bolt and tread sizing. For me it's just to simple look at them and I can tell what size they are, but I've been around machinery and tools my entire life so I can tell within seconds of looking at it what size it is. Doesn't matter though, video helped a lot of people and there is always a hater in the audience, congratulations, your it.
