Welcome to Moment of Zed, the RU-vid channel dedicated to the most beautiful car in the world, the BMW Z3! Follow me (Mark) and my new to me Z3 "New Blue" for tips, product tests and community built around this amazing car.
I have an issue with my 2000 Z3. When I unlock the trunk, it instantly locks its self again. It's something electrical. The other door locks work fine. Is there a way to disable the electric locks by removing a fuse, or a relay?
Hey Mark, Thanks for the nice video's. There's a thing i noticed. It looks like youre missing the ' covering caps' that connects the sealingframe rubber to the door rubber. Google BMW part 51718401844 Have a nice day! Martijn
@johncagle3362 if you feel less stopping power number one. Then take a look at the pads, less than 3mm thickness, replace. Rotors might remain if they are not deeply worn or uneven/ warped, but for the price,might as well do it.
I'M HOPING SOMEWOME CAN HELP ME! I have a 2001 Z3 with the 3.0L M54 engine and a 5-speed manual. I am replacing both rear CV axles. The replacement axles each have six evenly spaced differential flange mount holes, and all of the videos I can find about replacing the axles have the evenly spaced mount holes also. My car as six mount holes also, but they are NOT evenly spaced! The mounts holes are set up with two widely spaced holes linked by a small U-shaped bracket, then ne next holes is closer. The closer hole is "mated" to a wider spaced next hole that is tied to it by a similar brackets. What gives here? Why are the flange mount holes different on my Z3 versus all of the otter axles I see for the Z3 with evenly spaced flange mount holes?! Thanks in advance for any help in understanding this.
I had my apprentice mechanic (my son) replace my brake pads and rotors on all 4 corners. Since my son has an F10 BMW that will be needing brakes in approx. 20k miles, I said why not let him get the hang of it on my Z3. It's a dirty job but someone has to do it... Torque Specs: Rotor retaining screw 12 ft. lbs. Caliper guide pins 22 ft. lbs. Rear carrier retaining bolts 48 ft. lbs. Front carrier retaining bolts 81 ft. lbs. Note: Double check torque specs per Bentley Manual... Mark: If you need a couple of the new rubber end caps for the caliper guide pins I can send them to you free of charge just let me know. Good video BTW
Great video Mark! Basic tools get the job done. I bought a tool to compress the piston. It was about $5 twenty years ago. I bought a tube of brake lube at the same time for about the same price. Still have plenty. I lube all metal to metal surfaces when reassembling. Including the clips. Maybe overkill, but never have squeaks. An important part of a brake job is bedding the pads after installing. It results in smooth braking and helps prevents brake wobble or pulsing that feels like a bent rotor. Rotors rarely bend.
Mark, Another excellent video! Maybe in the future you can make a very useful video --- how to wash your Z3 in 90 degrees and 90% humidity!!!!!!! Have someone keep another hose spray on you while you perform the washing! I may make a video about washing my Z3 in 105 degrees full sun --- NEVER NEVER NEVER --- best time for Z washing on the West Coast is 4 AM!!!! 😄
Hitting the front, hitting the back, use plenty of penetrating oil. I had to check the video to make sure we were still talking about replacing brakes here!
Good job, I would have cleaned the extended piston with a toothbrush and soapy water before pressing it back in as you are pushing dirt and grit through the seal. Where do I post photos and work done on my zed 3 🏴🇬🇧
Just did my transmission fluid using Valvoline Synchromesh for my Getrag 5 speed manual. Easy process, took my time. Mine was about 38 oz, but then it overflowed a bit, started dripping and had to keep wiping it for a few minutes until it quit. Easy job. I have a special work environment, I used my garage in floor tornado shelter, which doubles as a maintance bay for working under my car- no jacking required! Worked great for diff fluid and transmission! Thanks for the tutorial Mark! @MomentOfZed
I wound up purchasing another manual transfer pump for the transmission fluid, different from the on that I used for differential fluid. They are cheap, didn't have to worry about cleaning it.
Maybe not the coolest, but damn sure one of the most genius things about the Z3, is the ability to air up the spare tire remotely. How friggin cool is that ? 💪😎👍
Thanks for the tutorial! Just changed mine with the 75W-140 Valvoline using the Slippery Pete pump. I took my time, but easy process. Wound up using about 1.4QTs for my 2000 2.3 manual. Used the 45 ft-lbs torque. Suggestions on cleanup for the pump to reuse for transmission fluid later? Just pump soapy water through it?
@johncagle3362 to tell the truth I can't remember what I did. Soapy water seems reasonable, although maybe pumping tranny fluid thru into a receptacle until the diff fluid is out might be easier.
Picked up my original parts today and the difference in quality compared to those from Ali Express is like night and day. Hopefully they’ll last another 30 years.😂
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So i was pushing in the wrong place and finally figured it out. Unfortunately the gasket I purchased on Aliexpress was of such poor quality that it tore in my hands while trying to fit it, so will now look again online.
@@andrewszatmari2941 I'd try wd40 or a similar penetrant , with that said make sure you are trying to move the right part. I didn't have my endoscopia camera then and some folks have told me they were trying to move the wrong part
Excellent video!!! There are space on top (aft) of the sealing frame and the bottom(forward) of the sealing frame. Do you happen to know which side may be causing it? May be both? The bottom (forward) side is easy to caulk with a sealant, because of the open access. But the top (aft)side has very narrow space and it difficult to caulk. Your idea of using the gorilla glue with a tube may be a good idea.
What a stunning improvement! I've been wanting to do this for a while now, and my lights have deteriorated to the point that is "now time." Since I don't have an enclosed garage, and don't have to drive my Z every day, I'll probably remove to entire light assemblies and do much of the work in the air conditioned comfort of my "hobby room." This video has surely inspired me to take the leap! Thx Mark!
Rainy season in Florida. My Z has always been garaged and i don't ever recall driving in the rain (I've had it just 3 years), so yesterday i let it sit in a downpour and.... yup, trunk filled with water😢. Pulled the flexible grommet and sure enough the sealing frame is cracked in about the same place as yours. Will use your fix over the 4th and see how i do. I'll try and report back after the repair and another real-world test!
Hi Mark, always anticipate your videos - informative AND educational! You must be a teacher (I think I remember you saying you use the Z as your daily drive to school!). I saw this video when it first posted and meant to say thanks for featuring my car at 3:09, thank you! Keep up the good work!
does your condensate drip onto something hot so you hear it sizzling when you stop? (those drains look fairly clear of everything else--makes me wonder if mine are clogged)
Hello again , thanks for another well done video. I did the same job two years ago and the result was very good. Used a complete set from a german manufacturer Dupli. The most important hint is to take your time to prevent the surface from overheating.
Looks great Mark, it doesn’t appear you went through any of the painters tape layers. I know when I did mine I did a layer of painters tape, then a layer of 4 mil aluminum duct tape, then another layer of blue tape just to be extra cautious. Cheers!
The X8R is fantastic for those who live in the UK. Not saying about the bushes now but the another common fault which are the mirrors. You can’t get housing from BMW unless you buy the whole mirror. They develop the improved part that won’t fail and you can fit right in and get your wing mirror done👌🏻
Nice job! Not bad for your first time. You learned a lot with mistakes you made with removing the tint. You Headlights look great now. I do headlights for a living as well and I still learn new things since headlights come in so many shapes and sizes. Polish the headlights once a year with a UV plastic polish and the clear coat can last you a few years. I've seen some last 7 years when properly maintained and stored in a garage.
The meguiar's clear coat is very easy to remove since it's designed for headlights. The 2K clear coat Chris Fix recommends is the improper type to use on headlights. It cracks, peels and is extremely difficult to remove.
Another excellent video! Thank you for sharing your fun. Note: Has your audio recording equipment changed? I am hearing some crackling at times, kind of like overload. 🙂
Do NOT replace halogen bulbs with LED bulbs unless you change the housings. The reflector housings are not designed to reflect the scatter pattern of an LED and will be more dangerous. You need to retrofit or replace with headlight units that have projector housings.
@@KadenBarriga I changed mine out to led's like 3 years ago and so far I haven't hit a tree, building or anything else but the road. BTW there was a time when halogen headlights were illegal in the United States, a far contrast to what any new car's sport today...
@@jimmyk6336 didn’t know I needed to be more clear. Not a direct danger necessarily to the driver in the car, but to other drivers on the road who you risk blinding with the reflector housing incorrectly reflecting the light scatter pattern of the LED.
LOLZ I just did it 2 weeks ago. I used Visabella kit for clearing leses but do not apply their protection. Use the wipes from Turtle Wax set instead :)