I let the thin set glue wick into the joints. The glue stains the seams, but they disappear when I paint the model. Recently, I used some MRP lacquer based paint and the glue seams are visible. Is this because its lacquer based, or do some paints let the glue joints show through?...thanks-
bonjour..pourquoi privilégier un vernis satin pour l usage des fondus à l l'huile ?...serait ce pour que ça glisse juste comme il faut? la mat accrochant trop le brillant pas assez ? d avance merci pour votre réponse
Unexpectedly came across this video. Super. As for the tank, the highlighting is clear. It is white. And with what color did you work on the shadow on the sand?
3 года назад
Thanks. For shadows you can use Van Dijk brown or brown umber or sepia.
The tank looks like it stood abandoned in the field for 50 years!))) The Soviet army never had such rusty tanks, because the tank is regularly serviced, repaired and painted! By the way, I was in the service in the Soviet army, I know what I am saying! Greetings from Russia!)))
Screw you. All you did was show how you painted the F-4 to obtain the look you wanted and how you mix your paint. This video was a waste of my time that I will never get back. Take your channel and go home.
I know its been ages since this video was uploaded, however i would very much like to try this color modulation on an Abrams too! My question would be though, at which stage do you apply this oil fading? I can see that washes are already applied, but in my case i would like to achive other results as well by adding streakings and oild dot filter. Would you recommend to apply this after all the other weatherings or before washes, streakings and such?
3 года назад
Thank you for your message. I apply this technique after washes and oil dot filters but before streakings. It remains discreet and can be seen by transparency. But you can try your own style. Previous steps must be very dry and you can apply a protective varnish before the oil color modulation.
Love this video! Question: how are you achieving such small spray lines from the airbrush when mottling? I can’t seem to get my brush to paint smaller lines. I tried different size needles but no effect
4 года назад
I use 0,15 or 0,2 mm needle with very diluated paint. About 60% - 70% of thinner. Low pressure.
Very good video. One suggestion, would be nice if the camera is zoomed in more (even from time to time) so we can really see the techniques, the very minimal movements youre making - again video is very good as it is, but it can be great 😆 keep 'em coming pls.
I hope you are still active in youtube.. your videos are very helpful and great quality. How do you sequence your build for base paint, gloss coat, decals, oil shadow effects amd streaking effects? You said that the surface must be satin, but we usually gloss before decals. Also, if i did streaking or a wash, wouldnt it remove the oil shadowing? Lastly, what if my model is a green and grey camouflage aircraft? What colours do i use?
4 года назад
Hi. Sorry for my late response. Here is a step by step: 1. white or grey primer on model. 2. Base color + modulation and mottling. Paint camouflage. Chipping. 3. Thin layer of gloss varnish. 4. Apply decals. Paint panel lines. 5. Layer of gloss varnish and sand it slightly to remove relief and dust. 6. Layer of satin varnish. 7. Apply some techniques: a.contrasts with oil paint, b. Filters, c. streaking, . Let's dry 48 hrs between each or apply a thin layer of satin varnish to win time. 8. If necessary, apply pigments. the end ! For grey camo, use black, white and grey colors. For green camo, use zinc chromate, yellow or light green (for lighten) and dark green for shadows. You can use many colors it will give more nuances. I recommend this book: F.A.Q. from Daniel Zamarbide (AK interactive) or Encyclopedia of aircraft modelling technique (Mig Jimenez / Diego Quijano)
Why did the paint flake of Japanese planes so much during WW2 compared to American aircraft? I find it strange to think that most of these planes that were no more than 2 years old had close to 20% of their surface devoid of the initial pain job - why was that the case with Japanese planes?
4 года назад
Because paint was applied directly on metal surface of fuselage. No primer paint.
@ Wow, 'the realization that the lifespan of one of their planes was so short' hit me hard when you made that statement. The manufacturers knew that yet they kept turning them out for young men to climb into. What a terrible thought.
Les peintures japonaises étaient de TRES mauvaises qualité et la précipitaion des constructions ne leur permaettaient pas de produire des avions bien fins
