This channel is devoted to enjoying the sailing life! We are life-long sailors who presently cruise the waters of the New England region of the USA. Tom is a licensed captain and ASA-certified sailing instructor. Our channel will provide a mix of how-to videos for both the learning and knowledgeable sailor, stories of our boating experiences and of places to visit...
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I prefer to tie the dinghy very close behind - 1m or so. This lifts its bows on the go and it planes on its rear reducing jerking, doesn’t swing much even if not V tied.
The boom needs to have the turning blocks in the endcaps, one in the aft end, two in the forward end, for each reefing line. I assume that boats provided with such booms intend to support single-line reefing. If your boom doe snot have the endcap blocks, you need to order new endcaps or a new boom.
See 1:12 i the video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-PYQbnzQxuyM.htmlsi=V58yQK-BdKi-jwc- I mark my anchor rodes with small plastic tabs marked in feet.
The lazy jacks have the nice utility of keeping the dropped sail off the the deck, but I don't think flaking the sail off of the deck makes much of a difference in the flaking.
Please note, one short blast - leaving you to my port may also be explained as altering course to starboard. Similarly, two short blasts - leaving you to my starboard may also be described as altering course to port. See IMO COLREGs Part D Rules 32-37.
@alir83 Although that wording may sorta work sometimes, that wording is not what I see in my copy of COLREGS, and is no substitute for the correct rule.. Part 83.34 of Rule 34 "Maneuvering and Warning Signals" has the text used in this video and no reference to 'altering course'. Here the actual rule is verbatim: "83.34 (a) When power-driven vessels are in sight of one another and meeting or crossing at a distance within half a mile of each other, each vessel underway, when maneuvering as authorized or required by these Rules: (i) Shall indicate that maneuver by the following signals on her whistle: (1) One short blast to mean “I intend to leave you on my port side”; (2) Two short blasts to mean “I intend to leave you on my starboard side”; and (3) Three short blasts to mean “I am operating astern propulsion”. (ii) Upon hearing the one or two blast signal of the other shall, if in agreement, sound the same whistle signal and take the steps necessary to effect a safe passing. If, however, from any cause, the vessel doubts the safety of the proposed maneuver, she shall sound the danger signal specified in paragraph (d) of this Rule and each vessel shall take appropriate precautionary action until a safe passing agreement is made."
@@SailFanatics I wonder if it has something to do with the source of information. The best PDF of the IMO COLREGs I can find online is here cil.nus.edu.sg/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/1972-Convention-on-Regulations-for-Preventing-Collisions-at-Sea.pdf. See rule 34 on p21. Other sources, including RYA publications, confirm the wording and the directions. I think, however, we are saying the same thing, just explaining it differently. If you were to leave someone on your port side, you would inevitably be altering your course to starboard and vice versa.
@@SailFanatics I suppose the wording depends on your source. The best PDF version of the IMO COLREGs I could find online is here cil.nus.edu.sg/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/1972-Convention-on-Regulations-for-Preventing-Collisions-at-Sea.pdf. See rule 34 on page 21. The same wording is used in a number of sources including RYA literature. Both copies, however, are saying the same thing, just differently, because if you were leaving on your port side, you would inevitably be altering your course to starboard and vice versa. I have altered my original comment to avoid confusion. Thanks for the discussion and the clarity.
What I like to do when the jib does not want to fly, is to trim the mainsail a bit, so that it creates a little forward airflow into the jib. But to be honest I am not sure if this actually increases the speed, because the mainsail may work a bit less optimal. And of course it increases the chance of an accidential gibe a bit. Thanks for the great videos!
I wish I knew which shackles to use on the top and bottom of the head roller. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Also, why don’t you just put a couple of turns of the halyard around the drum, and then go forward with the bitter end and you can raise and Feed at the same time?
I find you need to use the winch to hoist the sail into the luff extrusion, which is much easier to do via the winch handle than by hand. When properly positioned, the pre-feeder works like a charm, and you avoid the hassle of ducking the sail when its part way up and luffing about.
This is a well explained tutorial of upwind sailing! Thanks for taking the time in preparing all the material and producing the video. Much appreciated.
OMG this is a great video. We your procedure and the only thing the stumped us was our halyard had a bunch of twists in it. When we raised the halyard it would wrap it self around the furler shaft. We un did the bowline knot from the top of the furler, took the twists out of the halyard rope and retied the halyard to the top of the furler mechanism and bingo, the halyard raised the sail with the expected effort and did not twist around the upper furler shaft (tube?). Thanks so much for this video.
Great suggestions! My husband and I have just started sailing and the first time out w wind and engine sound we couldn't hear each other. Needless to say, the sign language we were using... wasnt very nice. Appreciate your videos.
Do you route your jib sheets aft outside the shrouds then back through the life lines at the car or do you leave them routed inside the shrouds and life lines directly from the clew to the car? Thank you
Depends on size of jib/height of clew and location of shrouds. Closehauled, you want the sail to trim as inboard as practicable, so inboard of lifelines would be desirable. For a large jib/low clew sail, your sheet would go outboard of shrouds. For a smaller jib/higher clew, you can often run the sheet inboard of the uppers/outboard of the lowers. If the shrouds are located outboard (to the toerail/topsides), then you want to try to run the sheet for any jib size inside one or more shrouds. When reaching, you want to move the sheet forward and outboard, when racing I add temp tie a short sheet through a block on the toerail, outside the lifelines.
You should get rid of the music altogether. It’s a sailing video, not a boring work safety video you’re being forced to watch…and that’s definitely the kind of music they use for those work safety videos. Either way, the music makes it hard to hear what you’re saying.
Interesting COB manoeuvre, which is ok if you have very little wind or waves. But this is possibly a big problem if wind and waves are strong, you furl the jib, and can’t get the motor started or don’t have one, then you don’t have the jib to help with steerage and control, and you could end up hitting the COB or are not able to get close enough, wasting valuable time.
All recovery procedures have their risks and shortcomings. None are the ultimate answer. That said, this is the one COB procedure I think most people can execute, most successfully, most of the time.
sailing is easy, put canvas up and the boat moves... the skill in sailing comes from knowing all the secrets of trimming that cloth for best efficiency. Thanks for these videos, now i have something else to adjust on my boat next time im out. Cheers!
I adjust my blocks another way. I put my boat on course and trim the jib then look at my telltails if the top are lifting but middle and bottom are streaming then block goes forward if bottom are hanging and middle and top are streaming I move it aft. I don’t have to luff up to see what adjustment I need . I feel it is a easy way to set the jib block and have been doing that way for 50 years. I do have to luff the jib to release sheet tension move block forward
Excellent video. One small note about the line making all parts of the sail equally twisted. While it helps to say it that way to simplify explaining the principles, in practice, the top half has to be more twisted than the bottom, simply because there's typically more wind at the top. This is typically how the sails are cut. More twist at the top than at the bottom, by default. You can verify this by looking towards from the bottom of the forestay.
