We are professional woodworkers, sharing the inner workings and experiences that working as a Joiner has to offer. We are a 3 generational business from Australia that was established by Brian in 1974. Come and join Gary, Brian's son, and Joe, his grandson, as we share our workshop with you and what we get up to.
Our channel covers a variety of content, including overviews of work in progress, our own projects, machinery usage and safety, and general shop talk. We aim to upload a video every Wednesday/Thursday evening. We hope you enjoy our content, and if you do, please leave a like and subscribe!
Nice video, thanks for sharing! To live in a country where they have laws against certain tools is wild. I'm sure the average woodworker is far more likely to get into a car accident than a industrial injury, yet there are no restrictions on cars. Also one year without touching a power tool? Any evidence that supports that it is worth it? Seems like the tradesman is being held back in progress
@treystills Our apprentices are more often than not only 15-16 years old when they start. They are introduced to machinery slowly to avoid any accidents, this is how we operate and have done for 50 years. Thanks for your comments.
Well done mate. You’re trying to tell people in one video what you have learned in 60 years 😮 only joking. We are still moving forward. If anyone is starting out go the extra and pay out for a tilting arbour spindle. Lats go back to Whitehill cutters ( scary but got it done )
I haven't used the AV515 yet, it seems to set up quickly how extensively do you use it, as is is a reliability expensive product, I use mostly use AV180 (yellow) except for exterior work.
@alanmooney We use it all the time. It is a very good glue, and you will never get it apart once set. In warmer weather, it dries in about 20 minutes, up to an hour in winter. It's not cheap but well worth the money, I think it is around $20 for a cartridge, though I buy by the box.
My advice is start with the better euro cutter head like the one in the orange box they can be got with spir cutter for rebate work and euro cutter for all the profits he's shown until you become confident with setting up. The euro heads use alinement pins making the fool proof for beginners.
Great video. Just picked up 2 of these machines (we call them shapers) with power feeders and need to get tooled up so they can earn their keep. Would love to see more content! Especially on techniques for running material through the machine
@DTJoinery I got a Delta 5hp 1-1/4 spindle with Maggi powerfeed and a jet 3hp 3/4" spindle with a generic feeder. Both single phase! A good bit of tooling with each machine, sort of a mishmash. I've used these machines for years but not often. Retired old boss sold them to me
@jar944 I made a video of collecting it, at the start and end of the video, I gave a closer look of it. I bought it for the fence setup, the machine itself needs a lot of work to get it up to working condition.
Interesting hearing the pricing differences. 40mm heads and profile knives are relatively cheap here. Under $20 per pair is average. Heads are a bit over $100. Cant say ive seen a wobble saw available anywhere. I would likely skip the glue joint cutter and suggest a 180/200mm 15-30mm adjustable groover. (In addition to a 4-15mm groover in place of the wobble saw) the 15-30 will allow someone to cut moderately sized square shoulder tenons as well as grooves.
@jar944 The adjustable groovers here are just over the top expensive, which is why I suggested the drunk saw. Where are you located? your prices are very cheap compared to here.
@DTJoinery I'm in the US. I think I paid under $200 for the 20-39x170 groover and maybe $300 or $350 for the 4-15mm x160 3 peice set. The standard 40mm cmt profile knives were $13 for years. Those were only the knives since we don't run limiters or limited blocks here.
Do you hone new blades, and what do you use to grind the blades; do you have any particular machines or do you just pull them off and use a regular sharpening stone? As always, thanks much for all of your excellent videos and advice.
Definitely hone new blades. A straight knife grinder is needed for grinding. We don't have one, so we send them out to be ground. To do the honing, we use a silicone carbide stone, theu work well, bit wear very quickly.
Hi DT! I jhave just purchase my first spindle moulder, a Grizzly model G1026 manufactured in 2001. It is in good condition. I bought it to do all of the mouldings and T&G flooring in the new home my wife and I purchased recently. I have several years of construction and shop experience (carpenter's kid, many summers helping my Dad, and a few years working with him as an adult). I will be milling about 2000 board or probably about 4000 linear feet of 4/4 oak flooring from trees that were beetle killed in my area and I sawed into lumber, plus coffered ceilings, base moulding, window and door trim, the works. Specifically, for doing significant (for me anyway) amounts of T&G boards, what sort of set up would you suggest as far as hold-downs or feather boards, jigs, etc. Also, is there a cutter head manufacturer and set you would recommend for 4/4 (26cm) boards? My moulder holds from 1/2" to 1" spindles and is 3HP. Fantastic video, by the way. My wife is watching it now as a way to understand the moulders and the dangers involved in improper use. Thanks very much for your video.
@elavynnek4173 Well, enjoy that spindle and make sure not to do anything remotely dodgy. I try to use my feed units wherever possible. If I can't, then we have some springs made from timber that we use. Most spindle moulders have steel springs that can be attached to the fences. If you don't have them, then a simple timber spring/feather board will work just as well. Try to avoid using it free hand, as it is a lot harder to get a good consistent finish, not to mention it opens up possibilities to injure yourself. As far as cutter heads go, i'm not sure what suits that shaft size, mine are all 11/4". I would try and find a head that suits the 25mm, as that will be your best option and give a superior finish to router cutters. The brands I have are Freud, Garniga, CMT, Stark, to name a few. Leitz are pretty good too. I assume you are in the US given you have a Grizzly, I'm not familiar with what tooling you have there, but look up spindle moulder tooling, you should be able to find something online to get the job done. Hope that helps.
@@DTJoinery Excellent advice. I'm dedicating a couple of hours today to making feather boards, and have ordered the hold-down springs from Grizzly. Yes, in the States. Freud was the one I'd figured on purchasing, but I'm going to look at Garniga now. Thank you!
This is genius. One day you have to build another one of these with plans so we can purchase and make one. Love your videos pal. Had to subscribe. Keep them coming all the best from manchester U.k❤👍
Wow! This looks like an interesting channel. I recently found myself looking at woodwork, mainly doors and windows, and thought how beautiful they were. Now, they are all being replaced with uPVC. I bought myself a set of books on woodworking from the early 1900s and the 1960s in the UK, which show you how to make them. I just can't get my head around the scribing part where the stile joins the shaped rail, etc. Your channel looks great, though. Thanks for sharing. It doesn't look like you use double glazing there?
@leeedwards3783 Thank you. Thankfully, pvc isn't used here much. Hopefully, it won't be for some time yet. Double glazing is used but not like in the UK. I prefer single low e glass over double glazing, just my preference. Thanks for commenting, and we hope you enjoy the channel.
Gary, I think this is great! So few people hone their knives here in the states, it nice to show people how to get some more life out of your blades. I do personally find that that all my knives come in from the grinders with a bit of a hallow in them. My assumption is that it has to do with heat build up as they’re grinding them.
@joshuahayes1272 Yeah, not many here do either. The hollow could be from howbl they are grinding them, if they are going over the centre more than the ends of the knives. We have to be careful with our wet wheel for chisels and plane irons, for that reason.
lovely machine, I love the shape of the cast iron parts, what a beauty. I would guess 1920's on age but difficult to tell. I would keep the switch gear, nothing wrong with it and much better and safer than modern plastic ones.
Fascinating how you use, repair and jerry-rig these beasts. Wonder how ‘fun’ it is for you to get these in working condition or keep them in production vs just doing what you have to out of necessity. Necessary evil or more than that?
@ericerf6837 For the most part, being so well made, they really don't need a lot doing to them to keep them going. I get a lot of satisfaction from having, using, and maintaining them. They work just as well and, in most cases, better than any new machinery. They are basic machines and require skill to operate as opposed to todays computerised equivalents. That's what I like. They are also as reliable as the day is long.
Nice looking door - good job. I've started cutting almost half way with the TS, then flipping it over and almost cutting half way again. I then finish the small middle section on the band saw. I don't like surprises and even with a riving knife, there's no guarantee it won't bind up. Cheers
@justcruisin109 Cheers. For the most part, its trouble free. The problem is kiln dried timber, having a lot of stress and tension, coupled with timber coming from younger and younger trees. It certainly isn't a bad option to finish it off on the bandsaw. We occasionally do that with bigger boards.
Thats an old one. Most SCM stuff I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole to press the start button. But I have used the later t 110 and 120. They are okay. The fence assemblies arent the best but they work. You can set them up as a single end tenoner if you get an aftermarket clamping cradle. Takes up less room but not as fast as a dedicated machine of course.
This one is a good machine, it's quiet and nice to use. I dont have the original fence for it, sadly. All cast iron, similar in a lot of ways to my BEM.
The old delta unisaw was a decent machine. There's hardly a woodshop in America that doesn't have one. But most of their stuff is kinda second rate. I hated Rockwell Delta bandsaws and thicknessers. The shapers aren't much chop either. They did make good drill presses though.
Gor blimey four tenoners, no one's got four tenoners but you are right when you got machines setup it becomes a production line much quicker, we had seven spindle moulders setup only for doing kitchen doors.
Yes, I am the only shop I know that has more than 1. It definitely pays off, though, if you have the room. The advantage of being able to walk up to a machine and press the button and go, compared to constantly having to set up, is huge. Yep, we have 6 working spindles too😁
@@DTJoineryI thought I was nuts with my 8 spindles! 4 tenoners! That’s a lot of floor space. Like with the spindles it saves so much set up time though
@amhjoinery2060 Yeah, spindles are a must. I also run 3 morticers and 4 radial arm saws, 2 jointers, and 3 table saws, each one set up for a different purpose. Also, because I like machinery😁
Thanks for your videos. I love old English woodworking machinery. I'm retired and my Wadkins live in my garage/workshop and are hobby machines. I have a 1925 Wadkin LP recessing and boring machine (like an LQ); a 1926 Wadkin RB 9" buzzer; a 1936 Wadkin CK radial arm saw*; a 1945 Wadkin PK dimension saw*; another (untagged so I can't date it, but ~1946) Wadkin RB 9" buzzer; a 1951 Wadkin RT 6" wood lathe; and a 1928 Preston Woodworking Machinery (Canada) 30" bandsaw*. Some are undergoing overhaul, * some are runners.
@johnvannisselroy6197 You have a good collection there. Wadkin are my favorite machine's, they are made so well. I did have an RD 16" jointer. An ECA tenoner An EKA tenoner I sold them some years ago, I wish I kept the ECA.
Thanks for the tour. Looking at your EP spindle moulder, you suggest it was built around 1960. More likely between 1946 and 1951. What's more, it appears it was built by Sentinel (the steam lorry building company) for Wadkin. If you look on the left hand side of the base there are three tags. I'm sure the bottom tag says "Manufactured for and to the design of Wadkin Ltd by Sentinel (Shrewsbury) Ltd". Apparently after WW2 Wadkin had too many orders and so sub-contracted out the manufacture of some machines. Sentinel seem to have got all the EPA sub-contracts. Cheers, Vann.
@@DTJoinery It's a pity you didn't include pictures of the tags of your other Wadkins, then I could have used the test numbers to give the year of manufacture of each of them (not the BFT & BRA as they were built in one of the former Bursgreen factories - and used a different test number system).
@johnvannisselroy6197 Yeah, I didn't think of that.😊 I know the date of some, my Dad was an apprentice for the company who bought the RE brand new. Our friend bought the EQ brand new. My 6 header, I learned last week, is a 1993 model. Most of the others, I have a vague idea, that's about it.
All the time, it’s a nightmare. Even in accoya it can happen 🤷 I usually get a ‘feel’ for how it’s moving and over cut based off that , ie. skim face and edge and leave a bit of time .. then repeat… and if it seems to have settled down I’ll thickness. Even then sometimes I’ll pop it on a pile on jointer over night‘weighted’ Worst I ever had was a couple of cube of ‘thermally modified hemlock’. At least 60 percent was shot to shit inside / totally unusable from about 3 mm in the whole way, it was shocking. Some you could pick the cell collapse just looking at it in the rough!! But some caught you out. The most annoying thing was the ‘good stuff’ was fantastic !
These are gorgeous! Wait... what is that balancer hardware?! That looks so simple to put in. I need to repair some 1920s windows that were DIY flubbed (Originally weights inside the frames, then someone put in these crappy plastic runners later) and have been looking for a balancer replacement and this might just work!
@SuperDuckyWho Thank you. They are spiral balances by Whitco. They work ok, but weights and chords are far superior. These are a cheaper alternative to chords and weights.
Relative Humidity on the east coast of Australia is generally much higher than 12-15%! See eg. the BOM: www.bom.gov.au/climate/maps/averages/relative-humidity/?maptype=09&period=jul What I think you've confused is that the stated moisture % for wood uses a completely different scale to relative humidity. For wood, it is the weight of the water in it against the weight of the dry wood in it. For relative humidity, it is the fraction of the moisture in the atmosphere against the total capacity of the atmosphere to absorb moisture (at a particular temperature). See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_content#Wood_moisture_measurement and en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humidity#Relative_humidity For convenience, Fine Woodworking has produced a table setting out a sort of equivalency chart, which shows what the moisture content of wood will end up at once it's acclimatised to a particular relative humidity (and temperature): www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDFfree/equilibrium-moisture-content-chart.pdf Kiln dried timber is often aimed at being used in a climate controlled home, which has a relative humidity usually 30-50%: see the equivalency table at 70 fahrenheit (21 celsius). Timber in a climate controlled home will generally live in the range of 6.2-9.2%. You can't get it down that far through air drying, unless you're doing so in a climate controlled home (not entirely unlike a kiln!). With a higher moisture content than 6-9%, you COULD oversize the thickness of all faces and edges (ends do not shrink or expand) if you're aiming for particular dimensions: the wood will shrink once it acclimatises to the customer's home. See the excellent wood handbook www.fpl.fs.usda.gov/documnts/fplgtr/fpl_gtr190.pdf at page 13-15 (page 306 of the pdf) to determine how much it will shrink. Eg if it's going from 14%, expect an originally 290mm wide board of sugar maple to shrink by up to 290 x (0.00353 x (14-6.2) ) = 7.8mm. That's not insignificant, particularly if it's part of a larger panel. And particularly when compared to how much movement acclimatised wood would experience over the course of the seasons, which can be expected to be less than half that: 290 x (0.00353 x (9.2-6.2) ) = 3.1mm. Different woods are better or worse. If you start with wood that's approximately the same as it will end up, you get the same result. That's one of the two great advantages of kiln dried wood. Having said all that, the other advantage, and probably the greater advantage is that you don't end up introducing termites etc into customers' homes. You can reduce some of the waste from kiln dried timber by roughly cutting/planing it oversized, and leaving it a few days before finally dimensioning and using it. Kiln dried timber IS harder on tools, harder to work with, and more likely to bind when ripping. Pros and cons.
Nice to see i'm not the only one with those extra fancy hold downs for the workbench! 🤣 On a less silly note; actually two things. Is that fir? Also, totally get what you said about the grain not always working like it looks. I find it much easier to feel the grain direction before it's dressed. Looking at it when it is can be deceiving.
@brycecomerwoodworks Haha. Its WRC. Yeah, I find myself having to do that more and more these days, especially with timber where the grain is all over the place.
@@DTJoinery Aha of course, that explains the colour variation. Such beautiful material, I just wish it was a bit harder. First door i ever made was from WRC. Back then, it was a thousand bucks per cubic meter. I'd hate to think of how much it costs in Australia now!
@brycecomerwoodworks Yeah, its insane. $7500m3 This ling piece was incense cedar, so it smelt lovely and sweet. I miss working with how light and easy on the body/machinery it is, but I dont miss the allergies😁
@@DTJoinery $7500m3😵! I guess $17.70 a super foot isn't crazy if you're buying it by the stick, but i'm guessing you're buying it by the lift? I hear you about the allergies. I seem to have developed an allergy to black walnut. I end up looking like Mr. Puffy and feel like crap. It is manageble though, i just have to minimize the dust as much as possible & i seem to be ok. Took me a couple of times before i figured out what was going on.
Nice work replicating the handrail. I was watching you exerting yourself pushing the timber across the spindle moulder while noticing the unused power feeder in the background, I assume it's not working unfortunately :-) Cheers
@justcruisin109 Thanks. The piece of timber was wider than the feed unit could lift up to. This unit is run only horizontally, and for the sake of a 1 long piece, I didn't want to alter the setup, as I'd have it done by the time I got it setup. The piece was a little bowed, so the effort was in trying to hold it down, not in pushing it through.😊
@@DTJoinery I agree with the setup issues. I have taller post so I can raise the unit up higher but it is a pain to setup each time. It feels like I’m practising origami each time- twist this, turn that and so on. Cheers
@madmango6705 We buy our timber in rough sawn and size and mill it to the sectional sizes we need. During the process of doing this, we can and do experience the material bowing, twisting, etc, after we have straightened it. Hope that answers your question.
East Coast of US here. Our kiln dried hardwoods are usually around 12% moisture content and rarely are there any major issues if the wood is allowed time to acclimate in the shop or on the job site (if used as trim/flooring for example). Not all kilns are the same but timber can be ruined in any type of kiln. 🤷♂️ I do prefer air dried timber and most people will agree air dried timber behaves better when steam bending. We have very humid summers here and very dry winters indoors with heating so a lot of seasonal movement to account for with panel doors etc. I wouldn’t be surprised if timber meant for export is processed differently
