My channel all about building motorsport in scale - anything from two to four wheels, and maybe even wings!
My name is Earl and I am a scale modeller from western Canada, I enjoy building, detailing, finishing and documenting my projects for you to enjoy as well.
My channel is about all the things we, motorsport modellers, enjoy. I make detailed vlog-style videos from my builds where I explain and demonstrate how to use techniques ranging from basic to advanced. Detailing? Painting? Decals? Clear coating? Carbon fiber? Oil lines? Washes? Oil paints? Chipping? Well, I've got just the thing.
If you want to learn some new techniques and maybe get inspired for your own projects, you've come to the right place as I add new videos weekly!
I never build these without putting them in a case. Too much time & money to not protect them from dust. Mine will be displayed with the doors open and tail up or off. That should save a huge amount of time. This looks like the perfect kit to display open.
Hey Earl, the engine looks fantastic. Thanks for all the tips about using and thinning metallics. Where do you get the cool lids for the thinner bottles?
Coming along very nicely. Metal looks tough to work with to me. Appreciate the rotary tool overview you snuck in there, too. Congratulations on hitting 1,000 subscribers too, well earned!
Looking forward to this build, loved the 917 build, currently working on the Martini 917 LH. For the silver paint, check out Tamiya LP-48 Sparkling Silver, has some good amount of flake and scale appropriate.
The real bike is metal flake, LP-48 is not course enough, already tested. Picked up some GX208 to test, as well as have some Zero medium metal flake coming to test, stay tuned!
Thanks for the video. It's an excellent input! I only have one MFH kit, it's a 1/20 1975 Ferrari F1. I don't have any plans to build it in the near future, but I appreciate that you made this video.
This may be a dumb comment but I was wondering about the time spent on flattening the decals. I THINK that on race cars of this era the numbers would have been painted on by hand. If so, there would probably have been some kind of a "step" between the bodywork and the numbers. Your models are beautiful, but these cars were essentially tools built for a purpose. I guess what I'm saying is, are your models pritier than the originals? In any case your models are amazing and each post is an education
You are correct in thinking the real car would have painted #'s and there would be a step. There is a few reasons for removing this step on the decals 1. the step with decals is from the clear carrier film, so does not align with the makings. 2. the step with the decals is much greater than the step from paint (not scale correct). Ideally, I would have made stencils and painted the #'s, but this was not in the scope of work for this project. I try and create as representative of a finish as possible, and go by references if available. In this case, I did find one color photo of the car in period showing it to be quite polished and shinny!
Thanks, I was originally going for a less shinny finish, but found a reference showing it was quite shinny IRL, that's why I switched from 85% to 90% gloss content.
I do not use 2K and never will, so cannot compare directly. From what I have seen on the tables, both can be done to look great, also both can look like shit if done incorrectly in their own way.
@@motorsportinscale2291 Curios why you would never use 2k? I've been trying to decide. And I as wondering what airbrush are you running for your coats? Im a bit new to all the clear coat stuff.
Hello, may I ask what kind of tin material is this that has such good fluidity? I tried soldering, but when it melts it just turns into tin beads and doesn't flow to the metal surface.
I just bought this and looking over the instructions. I noticed there are no brake lines for the front and rear. I'm i missing something that i am not seeing in the instructions.
Just some fun facts...the iconic Gulf livery Porsche 917 never won Le Mans except In the Steve McQueen film Le Mans. Helmut Marko of Red Bull fame won Le Mans in a Porsche 917. The CanAm 917 had over 1500 BHP in qualifying trim. A lot of drivers called the Porsche 917 "A Widowmaker"
Another great video thanks for sharing! I've been curios about the process with these kinds of wheels. You mentioned you use a lathe aswell, may I ask which one you use? I notice your rpm is high on the drill, the flash point of white metal is so low, friction is probably melting the metal and marring the bit. I machine aluminum often and if it gets hot does the exact same things ruins the endmill. I wonder if some kinda tapping fluid would help. Lower RPM and possibly a carbide bit.
Thanks. The RPM is fine, the drill I was using was not very sharp so may have been a bit of cold welding going on, but mostly the issue with white metal is the chips do not clear and pack up in the flutes.
All I’ve done is Tamiya F1 1/12, but this Meng looks way better than Tamiya. It’s got so many more parts, and the booklet is awesome! Not sure why you keep saying it’s a decent looking kit. Unless your in competition those small details you mentioned aren’t that big a deal just my honest opinion… great video!! Great insight and thx for the tips on the decals….
Very nice work, especially on the fuel tank ! . I don't understand why you don't have more views on your videos and subscribers given the very high quality of execution of your models, and in particular those of the MFH brand. It's a mystery ? I only subscribe to 4 channels on the models and yours is one of them. 😉
Hallo, Earl Iam Thomas from Germany. I build acually this Porsche 917.I have a question.In see in the rear view in the near of the gear box a yellow clear tube.Can you me say ,where these part start and finished. Thanks for all the nice videos in our channel. .
Gday MiS, I'm wanting to try soldering soon.....can you recommend an iron and flux for the white metal kits ? I'm using your YT clips as tutorials,..hope you don't mind .. Cheers, Steve
Everything is perfectly successful except the installation of the seat fabric which at 1/12th does not represent reality finely enough. This result is not very satisfactory and I think you have certainly noticed it too. 🤨
I believe Tamiya was developing this after the Williams, but it got too expensive and never released. This sure looks like a Tamiya kit doesn't it, even the packaging.
I'm just know that brand today, heard that it's from macau!! Then i would guess that their production and the mold may be located in china in fact. Anyway their classical series 70's car model are my favourite!!
Thank you very much for the review! I'm a bit disappointed by this kit (the detail up set is really good though). The price-quality ratio is quite unbalanced - too expensive for quite poor stuff.
Hi, actually it's also not convincing to me..... I found it very toy-like but I think that with the detail set you can improve a lot the final result. I live in Italy and the problem is that I cannot find this kit detail !!! Do you know where I can buy now? Thank you very much
Hi, could you please confirm the type of jig you are using for the 1/9 scale moto at the end of the video? I ahve a few jigs, and use 123 blocks, but am always looking for new methods and tools. Thanks for the great videos. And yes, courage is key.
@@motorsportinscale2291 Thanks, I saw this jig and it's marketed as for 1/12, but looks like it can be used for 1/9 as well. Fantastic content, and model skills. I have way too many MFH kits for this lifetime, but I'm working my way very slowly through them.
I mainly use GSI Proconboy airbrushes, I have a variety of them ranging from 0.5mm to 0.18mm depending on the task and part. I have two compressors, one is a linear low pressure tank-less (GSI) and the other is the generic Amazon one with a tank when more pressure and volume is needed.
