A channel to showcase electrical installs of different types in Canada, new and exciting advances in electrical tools and help the general public with basic electrical needs, and understand the home electrical system
Why are you using what could be considered a thermostat screwdriver to wire up a disconnect? “You wanna make sure you get those terminations nice and tight” as his screwdriver skips out from being too small
Thanks but we are in Canada and follow all the legal requirements of the CEC. To note this hot tub is 40 amps max and is ran with a 50 amp cable and breakers so it’s still 80% rule 😊
Awesome video, I’m in Alberta as well and this is super helpful. I’ve got the exact same setup, and I’m running my teck cable to a sauna heater that has no neutral. What do you suggest I do with my neutral? Put a wire nut on either end? Or should I put terminate the neutral on the spa kit end and just put a wire but on the sauna end? Thanks a ton for the video!
If the equipment has no neutral, just leave it capped at both ends. I’ve only seen one other tub like this in all the tubs I’ve done… and this was the advice from our local inspector.
Nice video,making the terminations inside a hot tub is never easy! Why did you have to bond the armour of the tek cable in the hot tub if you have already bonded it to the metal enclosure(ie. the spa pack) ??
Good luck! If you have aluminum wiring like I do, you probably have small ass metal boxes. No way you are going to fit these pigtails in the box. I’m redoing mine while I remodel
Question: We want to move our main panel to a different location around the house. We'll have to re-feed a subpanel through conduit in the ground to the current place the sub-panel is being fed now. We will dig the trench so they don't have to. It's about a 25-30'ft run with 2 90 degree angles included. The sub-panel is already installed and there. It's just re-feeding from a new main panel. They quoted $7,240! That seems insane. Does that seem insane?
Hey buddy, if they are moving the panel they would have to put a junction box where the old panel is and splice every cable to extend them all to the new panel location. If you were just adding a sub panel the price would be $1800-$2200. Cable for a house can be expensive, around $15-25 a foot depending on the size and type. I would say the price is a little high, but it can depend on your area, the availability of electricians, and other things. So there are a lot of variables that determine price but if your unsure I would advice getting a second/third opinion. sometimes trades will give higher pricing just because they do not want to do a job, so again a second estimate is a good option. Hope this helped
@@Luminelectric They are not changing anything in the sub panel itself. It's already wired and been there for years. Just moving the main panel outside. This is just to run new cable to same sub panel.
Moving cables over takes time, the best thing is still to get another estimate. If the estimate is similar to the first there’s obviously more work then you think.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a breaker not rated for AL/CU. But if it’s not you could splice it, making splices in the panel is not to code though, so you’d need special permission from your local inspector.
Is it possible for these to get wet during a hard rain and trip? We had heavy rain and ours tripped. At least that's what we think happened. Ours is a Square D.
That is possible, these spa packs are all outdoor rated, so they shouldn’t be water inside but if that’s what happened, it is likely the reason it tripped.
Great video. There are some discussions regarding the Federal Pioneer panel with stab-lok (Schneider Electric) breakers being dangerous. Is this true or they are regarding the older models? Thanks.
Federal pioneer definitely doesn’t have the best reputation when it comes to electrical fires. 1 in 4 breakers doesn’t trip when there is a short circuit or over current. I’m not sure if the newer models have better stats.
Hello guys, I think Schneider have reused the old conceptions of stablock…It would be cool to have a test video to see if they trip…Got some people like that in my College…And I may change them. Cauz I dont trust it…
In my area there are tons of neighborhoods and houses with aluminum wire. I replaced most of the outlets and switches years ago with CO/ALR devices and have never had an issue. As far as pigtailing in some situations, I just pigtail a piece of copper with the aluminum, add antioxidant paste to a wire nut, secure with the nut and wrap with electrical tape. That serves the same function as using the purple wire nuts. I've had zero issues in 20 years.
@@Luminelectric I replaced all of mine nearly 20 years ago with CO/ALR outlets and switches. They have been available in the US for at least that long from places like Lowe's and Home Depot.
Since it’s not your main panel you can splice the feed, grab a box that’ll fit the wire’s, buy more cable and splice them together where the splice/ junction box is accessible.
Should come off the wall if all the wires are removed, pipes and all screws are taken off. Not sure what is holding your panel on but if it’s being replaced you can try using force to remove it
Thanks for the video! Is there a benefit to using metal vs plastic? The metal is cheaper at home depot! How come you didn't do the bushing thing when you said "youll need a bushing if youre doing any work in canada" since you said you were in canada (Alberta). Im in Edmonton for reference!
The house I'm in has the GFCI in the breaker box. There is no separate panel outside. It appears to have been installed by an electrician as there is a tag for it. Has the code changed or is it OK to have the GFCI in the main panel ?
That is allowed even in todays code the reason’s we use spa packs is: -they are cheaper then the GFCI panel breakers -to give the hot tub tec’s the ability to shut the hot tub down from the outside if they’re working on it. -if there is any problems with the equipment not working the disconnect is closer to the tub.
@@Luminelectric Don't spa packs use the same GFCI breaker as a panel ? Another reason to use use an external panel is so that you don't have to run Teck cable from the inside panel to the tub. I guess you could use a junction box to connect Teck to Romex so that just the outside portion is Romex ?
You said if using a 6awg wire you need to use a bonding bushing? what changes from 8 to 6? if the box is metal and the armor is bonded to the water tight teck connector which is then bonded to the steel box wouldn't it be the same deal regardless of wire size? or am I missing something? thanks for any info, and excellent video!
There is a mistake on this video where I said a bonding bushing instead of a plastic bushing. In the CEC all connectors over 1” need a plastic bushing.
@Luminelectric thanks. Sorry to push further on this, but what would the purpose of a plastic bushing be? Wouldn't that sever the bonding between the armor and the box? Does it apply for 1" AND larger? Or just anything larger then 1"? Thanks again.
It apply’s to 1” and anything large that is a metal connector, I think the purpose it to protect the wire from the sharp connector. No bonding purpose on that code 👆. You do have to bond all sizes of metal connectors terminated to a plastic junction box and that is so the connector is bonded and cannot become live.
Bro! You saved me! I was being. Newb and decided to reorganize my breakers when the stove did not work I realized that it needed to pull 240 and your video resolved it! Lots of love .. thank-you thank you thank you
I don't believe the sell the paste any longer and you can't get the Wagos for aluminum here...I tried they are only approved in the UK and Canada and will not ship here.
@@craig156 I did "google" search and was able to buy the syringes with wago's 249-130 alu paste and wago 222 grey connectors. Their website has an article on its effectiveness, when combining aluminum and copper wires.
