This is a really great video and also got some good info in the comments section which answered a few questions I had. I'm from the EastCoast (Canada) and happy you cleared up my question about using #8 with the 50amp spa pack. Having different codes in Canada and US is very confusing when looking online for help.
Great job guys. I really appreciated your video. 3 style points I would point out. 1) your camera angle did not provide a good view of the cable clamp in the main panel. 2) when you stripped the cable, there is a string inside the cable to help with stripping. This might be helpful to people that do not strip cables every day.
Scott Boyne I cant tell if this is sarcasm, but I’ll take the compliment and hope that I’m still right in thinking people are nice. Hope you like the video they take a lot of time, effort and capital to make/edit. We hope that we can help people.
@@Luminelectric no I meant no disrespect. I'm sorry, I loved your video. I bought my spa 2 years ago and watched a guy from Tennessee wire a spa. Sorry about that
No worries Scott, I am still finding so much positivity on the internet, It makes me happy to see that we’ve helped so many people. Appreciate your contribution to our feed!
Haha not sure how I got this vid but felt the need to comment. This installation professional knows how to ride the clutch. Coming from someone that uses power tools to assemble RC cars using metal screws into plastic. Good job sir! :)
@@ryaandnice Ryan, the NEC allows for several ways to identify a "ground wire". Bare is an acceptable condition. I think it is in section 200.4. That said, they are in Canada and as always, nec section 90.4 allows the building inspectors to "interpret" the code. Hope I was helpfull.
● Only copper conductors may be used, and all metal components within five feet of the hot tub must be bonded together with the appropriate size copper wire. ● An equipotential bonding grid, which is designed to mitigate step and touch voltage, must be installed. ● The hot tub must connect to a dedicated circuit protected by a GFCI. ● Any lighting, outlets, plugs, or other electrical equipment within five feet of the hot tub must be connected to a GFCI. ● A maintenance disconnect must be installed for all ungrounded wires, save those for lighting. This disconnect must be at least five feet, but no more than 50 feet from the water’s edge. It must also be visible from the hot tub. ● There must be at least one convenience receptacle between six and 20 feet from the inside wall of the hot tub. This must be a GFCI receptacle. ● All outdoor receptacles that are exposed to weather must have a weatherproof covering.
Awesome video, have a couple of details as I'm doing this work now. Is an arc-fault breaker required at the house panel (50A)? Is a waterproof teck connector used to get inside of the hot tub?
No arc fault required in Canada on any of this equipment, just GFCI need to be in place. And the teck can run into the tub, and can run into your home to, it’s just expensive
The neutral wire from the breaker monitors the current between ground and the two single phases on the breaker. It is a GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) break.
Very helpful thank you 😎 also it seems in Canada people can do electrical work without a permit while in the United States 🇺🇸 you do. I enjoyed the video
Great video. There are others on the internet that could use your advise. I am looking to install a HVAC, 15A split system and I also wanted other capacities accessible outside, so I am looking at installing W0408ML1125-60 Siemens Spa/Hot Tub Outdoor Panel with 60A GFCI breaker, or perhaps 40A. One 15A circuit will be for a soft tub and is simply plugged into a regular receptacle and has its own CFCI built in to the cord. The other circuits I plan to run are simply for outdoor lighting, power tools etc. I think I would go with a larger amperage only because I may upgrade the HVAC later that would require additional amperage. Otherwise, I would run a maximum of 30 AMPS. Do I need a separate disconnect for the HVAC if the panel is near and the breaker can be flipped if needed?
Hey Rick, lots to get to in this question. So the 40/50/60 amp spa packs are used to protect large loads, for what your doing it sounds like you should run separate feeds, one #10/2c for your AC this can handle up to 30 amps in a knife disconnect (I have a video on this). Your soft tub sounds like it needs a 15 or 20 amp circuit but the choice is yours here, if you want you can install the larger wire and spa pack still and run your CCTs out of the Siemens spa pack, and yes by the CEC you can run the AC off the spa pack but I wouldn’t for many reasons but the biggest one is it’ll probably nuisance tripping. Hope this helped
@@Luminelectric Thanks for the response. My application is to install a 12000 btu HVAC outside my garage, run a circuit to the back yard and another to the soft tub and some planning for another HVAC unit on the other other side of the house. The house is a rancher on slab and the garage is finished as it serves as an office for two people. The main panel is in the garage so if I can go out, it would be better than going through the attic. If I have to use a knife disconnect for the HVAC, what would be a good subpanel outside? I did look at the W0408ML1125-60 Siemens Spa/Hot Tub Outdoor Panel with 60A GFCI breaker and now see they have larger amped panels. Or have you seen others specifically for outdoors use? Many thanks.
We love the Siemens spa pack as it’s cost affective, has room inside to work and it’s breakers are interchangeable and can be changed to any Siemens stab in style or make it easier to add outdoor receptacle’s.
So, you have a breaker outside. Do you have an additional breaker inside to the house panel? Would it not be cheaper to use a disconnect instead of 2 breakers.
The reason we have 2 breakers is to save money on buying a GFI breaker for your panel. A Siemens spa package + a regular breaker for a panel is cheaper then a Siemens GFI breaker and a disconnect.
I have a zinsco panel I put a 2pole box like yours at my pool pump and used a gfci breaker only difference is there's only one bus bar for ground and Neutral and there's no neutral goin going to the pump just two powers and ground so there's no neutral on gfci breaker. I landed the neutral pigtail on the bus and the reset button on the breaker trips it like should. To my understanding the two powers going to pump are balanced and once one becomes unbalanced it will trip the breaker. It this setup correct 👍 or am I doing something wrong
Yes wizzle it seems like you have the right idea, I have only installed one tub that didn’t have a neutral termination location at the tub, the inspector said it was fine as long as it’s approved (CSA or UL listed), if you’ve tested it should be fine.
Great video. I am wondering though if/what the proper process is for running nmd90 from the interior of the house, and into a spa pack if it can't be fed directly into the back of the spa pack. Basically can u run nmd90 8/3 thru the rim joist,into conduit, LB and again into conduit for about 2' before it enters the spa pack? Or should you use a j box at rim joist location then Individual thhn wires up the 2' from there where the wires enter the spa pack? Thanks!
Hi Adam, the answer actually depends on which code you follow, this install is Canadian and done under CEC code. So if your in Canada any of the options you said would be fine, in the USA you’ll have to follow NEC and we wouldn’t consider giving advise on that install as we do not know all the codes you’d have to follow.
@@Luminelectric thank you for such an informative video and also a personalized timely response. Truly appreciated. I'd be following the CEC as I live in Ontario. My install would be very similar to the one in the video......a 8/3 nmd90 thru floor joists, out thru rim joist, up a few feet thru schedule 40 pvc to get above typical snow line, into bottom of spa pack, then teck cable out from there to be connected to hot tub requiring 40amps.........would I require a clamp at the interior end of the stub conduit inside the basement where the nmd enters the conduit or just feed it thru the conduit? Thanks!
No you wouldn’t need a junction box or a clamp at the end, PVC can be used to sleeve loomex (NMD90) you can also sleeve outside and run the PVC on the exterior with NMD inside as long as the wire doesn’t go underground or exposed to the elements. Theres a lot of ways to do this type of install and remain in the code, hope this helped.
Addressing some variations between the USA and Canada might be handy but nobody can be spot on for all of them. Then we have the UK (and others) who use 240 volt mains on everything so there is no 120 volt in their wiring. That's another animal when it comes to code understanding. In my area (New England USA) we have some odd requirements on distance between the spa box and the tub, which vary from location to location. They all seem to point out that the "main disconnect" should be within sight of the tub and clearly marked but far enough away that you can't reach it conveniently. (something like 12 ft) Same for having a service outlet nearby, that must also be GFIC. (recalling 12 - 15 ft) Most also call for #6 wire as a minimum for a 50 - 60 amp branch circuit out of the main panel (hence the remarks) but it quickly becomes obvious that most tubs only pull something under 40 amps, so doing the math with 80% loading on a branch circuit we're talking extra capacity only for the motor surge, so a 50 amp circuit will fit the bill. Given some distance (certain installs) the #8 wire might not cut it for voltage drop, at least for the entire run, but certainly for the last leg. If you add a service outlet to the spa box you probably need the #6 wire that far.
hey i have a question, im in Alberta, i have a 50amp spa pack that came with my hot tub (not delivered yet), the area where I want the cable to come through the wall is around 3 feet from ground level, is that too low? any higher and i have to open up my kitchen. i had a look in the code book and couldnt find anything about height off ground, but since im in Edmonton, the snow pack can get 3 feet some winters.
What I recommend as I have see this problem before, is to make your penetration outside as high as you can from grade and either sleeve a liquid tight over flex over your loomex (NMD) and gaining height that way down to your penetration or if you think you have enough height off your penetration come into the back of the spa package on the bottom back knock out. Email me if I’ve confused you more and I’ll send you some pictures of what I’m talking about. Info@platinum-Lighting.ca
great job!!! looks clean and done right. As an electrician myself for the power company, I can relate to how clean work this is. I have to ask though, isn't 8 AWG a little over kill ? or are they running a big hot tub with other electronics? I would think 10 AWG would be enough unless its a high current unit
Sam Sangiorgi thanks for comments and support, this hot tub has an FLA of 39 amps, we run everything with our derating factors which works out to just shy of 50 amps. So everything for a tub is ran as #8 with 50 amp breakers.
Thanks for the video. I had a question. We had an outdoor socket installed for the outdoor spa. The socket is right next to the spa (in the corner) and about 10 cm off the ground with an RCBO and a waterproof rating of IP65. Is it safe to have the two right next to eachother?
The spa pack in Canada has to be 10 feet from the hot tub or protected by a suitable barrier. You can do a weatherproof junction box on the location and extend to a safe location.
Great video thank you. I was wondering if you would remember where you got the bushing/connector for the teck cable (and the size of it) ? I need one (I'm in Canada) and can't find them. Thank you 😊
If your in a pinch they will accept a flex connector as long as it on the bottom of your spa package, also check with your local inspector to make sure they are good with that as well. Code can be interpreted differently in different places.
Great video. In the process of wiring my Beachcomber tub in BC. I have a question about connecting to the tub itself. I'm running teck out from the spa box to the tub. Can you run the teck cable directly into the tubs control panel? All the wiring videos I've watched show them using a green insulated ground wire. Do I need to install some kind of extra junction box before going into the tub? Thanks.
No you don’t need any other junction box, the teck cable with your 2 hots one neutral and a ground will be all you need. If the box to terminate to inside the tub is plastic you’ll need to get a bonding bushing for your connection to bond the armour. That’s about it.
@@Luminelectric Perfect thanks! you also mentioned the need for a bonding bushing at the spa panel if using 6/3 cable. Does that still apply even if the panel box is metal?
@@Luminelectric I’m going into the tub with 8/3 tech into a 1-1/4” hole in the plastic control box, using reducing bushing and conduit hub. Was going to put a grounding bushing to bond the armour. What were you saying about a platform bushing?
Miles McCoy the connector coming out of the spa package is a teck connector (water tight). inside the tub and the connector inside can be flex connectors (not water tight).
Thanks for the video! Is there a benefit to using metal vs plastic? The metal is cheaper at home depot! How come you didn't do the bushing thing when you said "youll need a bushing if youre doing any work in canada" since you said you were in canada (Alberta). Im in Edmonton for reference!
Moving my hot tub to a further away spot - can I use a junction box (on gazebo) to get the wire from the hot tub to be able to connect to the new line cable?
If your in Canada you can, make sure the box is accessible, make sure it’s weather proof (PVC boxes need any metal connectors bonded) I’d opt for a metal one with hinges so you don’t have to bend connectors(get it with Pre drilled knock outs). All connectors, wire devices basically must all be rated for there location. NOTE :most boxes can be hidden but still be accessible like under deck. Hope this helped 👍
Great work on the install, quick question; you used 8AWG wire, how many amps is that wire rated for? My understanding is it was rated for 40 amps and 6AWG should be used for a 50 amp circuit? Thanks!
Mike Endsley in Canada a #8 is used for a 40 (FLA) amp tub. In the code your breaker spa pack is rated for up to 125% (40x 1.25= 50 amp spa pack). If your tub is even 1 amp over over 40 you have to run #6.
If I have a 3hp 220v hot tub that is only 9.6 A plus 125% that would be 12FLA and distance from panel is only 40 ft !!!! Will I be ok using #10 wire and what size breaker???
Armando Jimenez if you have a 3 phase panel , breakers,spa package. You should be able to run #10. your calculation on 3 phase is different it’s 9.6 x square root 3 x 125%=18.59 and here in Canada #10 is good for 30 amps.
We have a base in Claresholm if you’d like us to come and install your hot tub. I would need some more details could you email us at info@platinum-lighting.ca
So you need a regular 50 amp breaker in your main panel and that feeds out to the spa pack, the spa pack has the GFI 50 amp breaker that’s going to protect the tub if there is a ground fault.
@Platinum Lighting the teck cable you’re using if buried, do the exposed part coming out of the ground and going to the gfi needs to be in a conduit? Someone told me this but I want to be sure.
Hey Simon, if your in Canada you need to bring it up as cable and use a teck con outside, if you sleeve it you’ll have to figure out a way to bond the teck armour and it can be ugly. Hope this helped
The previous owner at the house I purchased has the wire along the outside foundation. Am I able to run it in the walls with the insulation? I believe it’s a direct burial wire. I find it looks cleaner with one going in through the back and one out vs seeing both.
In Canada you would be allowed to run an NMWU or teck though an interior wall. PVC pipe used to mechanical protect the cable from damage on exterior where is needed. Hope this helps
@@Luminelectric Thanks for the reply. I was unsure why they ran it outside along the foundation. I thought it had something to do with the size of the wire creating more heat in the exterior walls or something. They never protected it along the foundation so I have to trim the grass in that area by hand to avoid damaging the wire lol. Does your channel have the ability to add the thanks button?
Yes, and most of the time the tub has a plastic junction box at the tub and will require a bonding bushing if your using a metal connector to attach the cable to the box.
That Liquid Tight Flexible Conduit looks like it is much longer than a 6 foot piece. Is that acceptable in Canada? I could be wrong, but I think that the NEC article 350 says you can't use a piece longer than 6'.
Awesome video man. I'm from Ontario and an industrial apprentice so I don't do much of this work but was curios would it be cheaper to run a say #6 Aluminum from spa package to spa or even go the route of using liquid tight conduit and running #8 copper separate cables?
I’m in the US, is there code for how far off the ground the box can be? Like a max height off the ground per code? Thanks in advance, your video is much help!
Hey, I’m glad the video helped. The code is different from US to Canada so we can’t offer to much help other then to call you local inspector to ask the questions you need to know. Thanks
Hey, all cable that is larger then #10 is stranded. There is advantages to flexibility of the cable in stranded. So it’s not like you get much of a choice on anything requiring more then 30 amps (#10 in Canada is good for up to 30 amps) hope this helped. Thank you for watching
So here’s a question, what if they have the bus in the panel all mixed up as far as neutrals and grounds , isn’t that gonna trip it then or no ? Cause the panel I just seen they have ground and neutrals all back n fourth lol
Your neutral needs to be separated from the bonding wires in the panel (isolation we call it) they should only be one point where the ground and neutral connect at the main service of the home. Hope that helped
@@Luminelectric and the main breaker can be a normal 50 amp but the disconnect has to be a GFCI? Or can the disconnect be a normal 50 amp disconnect and the main breaker be a GFCI breaker?
Is this correct for Canada? 50A Breaker ---> 8/3NMD90 ---> 50A GFCI spa buddy/pack ----> 8/3 TECK 90 armored cable ---> Hot tub (for 50A Hot tub) or 60A Breaker --->6/3NMD90 ---> 60A GFCI spa buddy/pack ----> 6/3 TECK 90 armored cable ---> Hot tub (for 60A Hot tub) just trying to keep it simple. Thanks this was a great video. I just found out that the hot tub I am getting can work on 50A or 60A. Is there an advantage to going with the more expensive 60A setup?
Yes this is in Canada, and you are correct on your sizes. I have never seen a hot tub that does both 50 and 60 usually they do 120v/15A and another mode for 240v/30A. But to answer your question to the best of my knowledge, I’d say more amps should mean more power so that should increase the ability to heat it and to push water better. Hope that helps
Ok,OK, got it. (My wire has black / red / copper / blue) no white. So, from the panel red connect to the box right-side black left-side. from the tub connects to the breaker, going to match it red on the right-side black on the left-side, blue at the back on the breaker. I purchased 84 feet, from the tub to this GFI 10-feet so I spilt cutting the wire. This is why I have four wires red/black/copper and blue. [I'm stuck buddy, if the wire that is coming from the house panel is the same from the tub, to the GFI box where does the blue wire go??] Your video is great, would love to get your feed on this, please? Thanks ahead Sam..
Hey Sam, so I will explain the hook up as best as I can From your panel you’ll have 2 hots (red/black) those tie into the terminals that feed the buss inside the spa pack, then that blue needs to be taped white and that now white wire ties to the neutral buss in the spa pack Now the cable from your tub to the spa pack should have 2 hots (black/red) that’ll get tied to the breaker under the load terminals, now on your spa pack GFI breaker you’ll have a special spot to terminate the blue (which you’ll be taping white as well) it’s usually called load neutral. Then that curly white white coming off the breaker can be terminated to the neutral buss. Hope this helps
@@Luminelectric Thanks very much (Buddy) worked out great. My plastic GFI box is finished wired up. But, other short questions. In the panel, I bought a 50amp breaker. The same wire blue/black/red and copper. (Black and red goes on the breaker, but which side does the red go on right or left on the breaker?) And where does the blue go? The copper goes the ground yes? [Thanks so much for replying, very thankful for your time. Sam...
@@phantom5185 no problem Sam, glad we can help. In your panel it doesn’t matter which wire (black or red) goes on which side of the breaker, as long as the breaker is splitting the buss in the panel you’ll get your 240v. The blue needs to be tapped white and attached with the other neutrals on the neutral buss. Bare copper is gonna be your bond and should go on your bonding buss
Where I live you need number 6 wire for 50 amp breaker on hot tub. Due to needing a number 6 ground seems funny how depending on the location you live gets different rules.
You said if using a 6awg wire you need to use a bonding bushing? what changes from 8 to 6? if the box is metal and the armor is bonded to the water tight teck connector which is then bonded to the steel box wouldn't it be the same deal regardless of wire size? or am I missing something? thanks for any info, and excellent video!
There is a mistake on this video where I said a bonding bushing instead of a plastic bushing. In the CEC all connectors over 1” need a plastic bushing.
@Luminelectric thanks. Sorry to push further on this, but what would the purpose of a plastic bushing be? Wouldn't that sever the bonding between the armor and the box? Does it apply for 1" AND larger? Or just anything larger then 1"? Thanks again.
It apply’s to 1” and anything large that is a metal connector, I think the purpose it to protect the wire from the sharp connector. No bonding purpose on that code 👆. You do have to bond all sizes of metal connectors terminated to a plastic junction box and that is so the connector is bonded and cannot become live.
I'm in the US. I'm planning on running Schedule 80 pvc conduit for the outside run of my house. Any idea if it's up to code to run the same wiring you did for the interior of the house outside as long as it's in the conduit? I sadly have a longer outdoor run than you do and need conduit to the disconnect.
Yes you can sleeve NMD though conduit, or you can buy a direct burry cable like NMWU and sleeve only when it comes out of the ground, you can burry teck cable also, and last but not least you can run a full conduit and buy RW90 copper wire to go in it. You have many options Hope this helped.
@@Luminelectric Thank you so much for the quick reply. I'm an instrument tech so I know how to do industrial wiring 120v and under, but I have very little experience with residential. Also, I'm not exactly sure what to run from the disconnect to the spa, you used teck but I'm not sure what this spa will be like vs yours. Again thanks for the response!
Teck cable is great for hot tubs because it can be buried or run ontop of the ground, at some point you have to enter the tub to make the termination, this is were the teck cable shines because it doesn’t need to be sleeved or protected.
@@Luminelectric Thanks for the time in making the video, quite informative. We are also thinking of running a teck cable from Spa panel to the hot tub. Question, as I'm not sure how you did insert that big teck cable going into the hot but wall covers? Did drill a hole and terminate it outside hot tub wall or did you drill a hole and insert the whole teck cable inside and terminate it to the spa electrical panel ? Appreciate if you can send us pictures. I can email you. Thank you.
@@Christian0465 hey Bobby, I can’t attach a picture on here but feel free to email me if you still need info@platinum-lighting.ca. The hot tub should have built in holes along the bottom edge to feed your teck into the controller area. You can drill your own if needed just make sure your not going to hit anything on the inside, and seal the hole.
I would like to add a wifi switch to turn on/off my hottub system. I have 4 wires coming from my 220V panel breaker: hot-hot-neutral-ground. Can you recommend a wifi switch that fits these 4 wires as input, and also has 4 ports as output?
Sorry I thought this was answered, I don’t think I’ve ever put in a wifi switch for a hot tub so I feel as though It’d be out my realm to suggest one. Hope that helps
Thanks for the video. I am located in Florida and have a new spa on my pool deck. Anyone aware of the proper location of the disconnect? I have a pool screen and not shure if I can attach the discoonect directly to the side of the tub or anywhere OUTSIDE the pool screen. Thanks much.
The rules in American are different for sure, here in Canada we cannot have the disconnect within 10 feet from the water source(tub). Always best to ask the local inspector.
I would consult your local code book (NEC) we have heard that it is different and requires #6 copper but not sure who among them is certified, so best to check.
Around 8:00 you said your neutral isn't supposed to be touching ground ANYWHERE. That is false. They're bonded at the main panel. Only in sub panels like this are they not allowed to be touching due to objectionable fault current path in parallel back to main panel/ transformer. I forgot what code exactly but its NEC 250.
Electrical wire is only solid up to #10 so these # 8 wires will always come stranded even when selecting a different styles of cable. A good question though, as it does help in anything that’s vibrating a lot, so not in the case of the tub but definitely on motors and vehicles.
@@Luminelectric #8 copper not more than 3 conductors allowable ampacity is rated for 45A at 90°, #6 copper needs to be used don't mislead people and I am surprised you don't know this.....
You have done a great job, very professional! Though, the wire size is in correct for your job. Number 8 Guage wire is only good for 40 amps. You need a # 6 wire for 50 amps. Please check out your electrical code.
@@Luminelectric Hey great video, in the process of wiring my new hot tub. Just to make sure, you can use #6 wire for 50amps though? And where do you find those teck cable connectors in Canada?
@@Luminelectric Ah, OK - that makes sense now. The 1" TECK connector I've purchased includes the plastic bushing. Also code states that if you leave the inner sleeve protruding 5mm beyond the end of the connector you don't require an anti-short bushing.
Great Video!!!..Any chance your in Southern Cali.?...I would hire you right now....have a jacuzzi being delivered in 2 1/2 weeks...As Pink Floyd song says, "Wish you were here"..
Good video. Hopefully helpful comment, it is single phase power. 120v or 240 v they are both single phase power. The red and black are separate legs or taps from the transformer but still single phase power.
Is this Alberta? I thought the teck cable is supposed to be mechanically protected when it protrudes from the ground because the rubber coating can get damaged?
Hey mike, yes this is in Alberta, I’ve never had any problems with running teck cable outside and using it to come up from unground in direct burial situations, that’s why we like using it so much. If an inspector has told you otherwise they have to tell you the code rule. I’ve never had any of the city or county inspectors disagree with this method.
I would've thought to use some 6 wire for a 50 amp breaker, additionally, I like the idea of using two breaker in the shut off, 20 amp for the pump and 30 amp for the heater. Better setup!
Internally, all spa components are individually protected. The spa pack 50 or 60A is calculated to withstand all components running at the same time (FLA). And tripping that potential leakage current. I have to laugh at people that spend 10,000 dollars on a hot tub but are shocked when they find out the electrical could cost upwards of 1500 dollars. It’s about saving their life .
trace the box, cut the cladding, add J channel, flush mount against house wrap and OSB/plywood. flex the channel and bait inside edge with sealant. i'd use compression fittings to the back of the box - hole saw matching the hex nut ring. the rest of the electrical is on point. makes it look so easy. its not easy.
Why the fuck would you do that, I bet the customer would love to see you cutting up their siding and paying for extra labour/time/materials to do that (sarcasm) this right here looks clean as is and is how any service electrician would do. Maybe if it was your own house and you wanted that for some reason on your own time sure.
The house I'm in has the GFCI in the breaker box. There is no separate panel outside. It appears to have been installed by an electrician as there is a tag for it. Has the code changed or is it OK to have the GFCI in the main panel ?
That is allowed even in todays code the reason’s we use spa packs is: -they are cheaper then the GFCI panel breakers -to give the hot tub tec’s the ability to shut the hot tub down from the outside if they’re working on it. -if there is any problems with the equipment not working the disconnect is closer to the tub.
@@Luminelectric Don't spa packs use the same GFCI breaker as a panel ? Another reason to use use an external panel is so that you don't have to run Teck cable from the inside panel to the tub. I guess you could use a junction box to connect Teck to Romex so that just the outside portion is Romex ?
