@@Alex.The.Lionnnnn yep I'm a weird Victorian. Grandies live in FNQ so we travel a bit. Was up your way last year on a Motorcycle Sidecar event. Stayed in Port Macquarie.
I can't think why I haven't seen this one before, Haitch. I'll have to trawl through all your vids, to make sure I've seen them all. I've only been to SA once, so I can't comment on the tracks and such, but Victoria seems to be built around great country, forest roads/tracks and such.
@@meditatingfish Glad to hear you are enjoying them. There is another 5 day series called the Varsty (Victorian Autumn Russian Sidecar Tour) if you havn't seen them already.
@@haitch1980 Not yet mate. I've been unwell the last couple of days. I think it was a migraine. I'll be taking a look next week, probably. (AFL Finals series is on over the weekend) I also have to finish re-attaching Swampy to the car. (long story)
Nice work. Do the gnarly stuff in steps. Stop between steps, and plan the next. Each step consists of how far you can see while stopped. Start descents slow, and have run off points as part of your plan for each step.
Lots of changes, and no change. lol 2000-2001, there was no Maccas. 2013, when we went through, en route to Cairns, the Maccas was massive! The big "Ayr" sign in the middle of town, with that big metal arch has been looked after. And the cane fields. Not so many nowadays, but back then, they were an almost unbroken line from North of Cairns, down to Ballina.
I used to live and work in Townsville, some 20-odd years ago. Work often took me to "Charlie's Trousers" (Charters Towers), so I would have gone past this place a fair few times, but never even knew it existed. There was also a gold mine out past the Burdekin, which was a two hour flight away. Looking down from the plane, I could see why it's called "The Channel Country".
One of the mines is at Ravenswood. North East of Towers and near Dalrymple Reservoir (Burdekin Dam) Been there a few times now. 2 of the most magnificent pubs of the era in Ravenswood.Glad you enjoyed the vid. If just for the memories.
@@haitch1980 The mine I went to closed, shortly after my last visit. That would've been mid 2002, if I remember correctly. I might pass by Townsville again, but will use the bypass. lol Lots of good stuff in the general region, but Townsville is too heavy industrial for my liking.
I'm checking Google Maps. It's not very informative, so I can't tell which is the "wrong" way. lol The video makes it look like I'd like to spend a long time there...
Coming from Strathmerton. You will reach an intersection where it turns from bitumen to dirt. There is a large farm gate on your left..You have passed the ULUPNA wagyu beef corporation (where the Eagle and Kookaburra art works are) if you proceed straight ahead and down hill? Thats the wrong way. You need to bare right and follow that road around following the Murrey R when you meet up with it. Google maps does'nt know many of those roads. But Google earth might.
Thanks Heff. We are on the road heading to FNQ. So, don't have the luxury of a powerful computor to create my usual stuff. Just the phone. Glad you enjoyed it. Gratified to hear it motivated you to visit..That was the aim.
We went through Yarra Junction a couple of times, on our recent trip to Vic. We were on a tight time budget, or we'd have given you a hoi. And we visited Redwood Forest, too! And we had lunch at Warburton!
@@epicridesandtours We leave for FNQ end of this month. Not back till August. If we get close to you will call. A bit concerned at floods/road conditions so may just scoot up on the Newell Hwy, rather than the coast.
Corrugations, according to a doco I once watched, many decades back, are created by a harmonic vibration in the shock absorbers doing roughly the speed limit. Whether that's true or not, corrugations always seem to go on far too long! Beautiful area, though. I have a mate who lives about 10 minutes from Silvan.
@@epicridesandtours There is another potential issue I am working through. It seems in order to fit these sleeves, some bits need to be disassembled from the hubs. I am told that it ain't easy. Will give a bash tomorrow. Stay tuned. Getting a little fed up with Ural.
Sorry, but yes..Only if 2WD though. It seems there is also another hitch I didn't know about. One of the components in the spare wheel that requires removal, is difficult to get out. Requiring heat and perhaps some machining. More to follow. ie not a roadside repair. Bugga.
@@dadvsson at least you now have choices. Perhaps take the wheel and get the spline removed and freed up. Then you are good to go. Swap a wheel or change a tyre. Mind you, odds of getting a SC or front flat is very low compared to a rear.
Great work. I need to do the same to Blural. Hoping that will fix the bad handling or it will mean replacing the steering head bearings. How is yours handling now Harry?
HI Geoff and Robin. It was ok before, just annoying that when I lifted the front I could feel, and hear a clunk plus see movement. Then I began to think how much grease Egor had put in there..Knowing there are no seals. Not tried it as weather down here has been crap. Hope you are both keeping well. Say hi to Robin.
I’ve just tried some spray lubricant as best I could to top & bottom races. If it makes any slight difference I’ll try your method. All the best to you & Marge.
@@geoffwormald3533 In truth, I pushed some grease in, then some Penrite spray lube,. Thinking it might help spread the grease.Perfection is pulling the races out, full inspection and proper repack. Ie 3/4 circ pack using the palm..But figured mine isn't that old.
Really good video. That has been on my list of things to do, but now I think I will keep putting it off for a while. Looks like quite the ordeal. Hanks for sharing!
Good to hear from you Allan. You have been missed. The biggest PITA is preventing tank damage. Some have removed the tank. Bars must be removed to access the top nuts. You could use the provided spanner if the tank was removed or protected..It is a longer process if using spanner only. Nuts are aluminium so gets butchered if not careful. Sockets are the go.
In careful hands the pin punch and hammer are marvelous to get the hex around that little bit to engage the spanner again. Though I think Ural intended you take the top triple clamp completely off (giving access to the skinny hex) then use a socket to adjust it down. Bugger that.
@@haitch1980 yep. Years ago, I used to use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to put a notch in similar bolt heads/nuts. Angling the screwdriver then gave enough leverage to turn the bolt/nut. The pin punch is a much more elegant tool for the purpose.
I'm really looking forward to getting my next sidecar, hopefully sometime this month, so that I can go on trips like this without having to worry about dropping the bike and then having to try and pick it up again..
The place looks like a "blink, and you'll miss it" sort of town. But those yew bewt buildings will change that. Now, I've gotta go and Google the place.
We used to camp close by on a free reserve. There is a boutiqe brewery just down the road. MittaMitta pub as shown. The road is a major biker route over Mount Wills. Heavily used by many from Bairnsdale over to Tallangatta. Check your maps it a great place. Just below the snowline.
Bobs FD was replaced overnight with a spare he carried in his motorhome. I removed leg guards from the right cylinder for a test, made no difference. I saw 235c on right cylinder at 75% loaded climbing on twisting dirt to over 1000m. Engine light on. Did the reset and no error code. Low voltage wil trigger the light, but no code recorded.Remember this is a hi comp, over retarded 2022 and they run hotter.
@@epicridesandtours Bobs is an old unit. They have been travelling the west extensively. The Fd was an old one with 90,0000k on it. Still good. Solo pusher.
I just remembered: I haven't had to remove the seat from my 2021 GU, so maybe things are different from earlier models. There are two relays attached to the underside of mounting plate beneath the bench seat on the 2011 Tourist. Is that no longer the case, or have you shifted them elsewhere?
@@haitch1980 no-one in particular, but in the past, I've found fabricators expensive, and I'm not the type to try undercutting people. I've had it tried on me too many times.
We enjoyed your video. Jim N Karen, over in Kalgoorlie. P.s. as a mechanic your Ural has less engine noise than most I have heard. You must have a good or fresh oil.
3.7lt Heff. But, you can get them in a variety of sizes. Depends where you want to fit them. You can also sandwich them together. Google RotoPax.com There is an outlet in Oz.
@@epicridesandtours You wont regret it. They were the first and still the best solution. Great for making a cuppa for your clients and guests out bush.
Mate, I’ve been struggling for a couple of days trying to get the rear wheel off, thanks for the video it’s helped heaps as the manual is missing way too many steps. Two things I didn’t understand, you talked about phasing with the uni, and what did you mean by springing the swing arm please. Thanks mate for your help in advance. Peter
Phasing is ensuring the universal joints, when separated go back in exactly the same place relative to the 2 yokes and the pair at the other end. Applies to final drve and sc cross shaft. Give it a google. The other is springing the left side looking from the back to allow the brake backing plate to drop out. You may need to take one of the disc bolts out to allow the baking plate free. Hope this helps.
Too much toe-in causes tyre wear, but 38mm is, in my experience, within limits. The goal of toe-in and leanout is going straight in your situation and not complying with given rules. I ride with 3 degrees and 52mm!
My measurement is at the SC wheel. I think your measurement is some way forward. About level with the front axle. Is that correct?? I am pretty sure the measurement quoted by Ural in my manual must be at the SC wheel. (3-8mm) for a 2wd. No set of measurements is correct for all circumstances given changes in load and road camber.
@@haitch1980 The drawing in the manual seems to show sc axle to front axle and says 3 to 8mm. In a Ural instruction video David measures backside of sc wheel to front axle and says 3 to 15mm. My dealer measures on the same spots and does 30mm. Do you measure from front to rear of the sidecar wheel?
@@haitch1980 Your measurement seems to be at quite a short distance and then 3 to 8mm would probably suit me too. By the way, all recommendations assume that front and rear wheel are in line, like they should be, but are usually not (in case of Urals).
In the Ural instruction video David measures front the back of the sidecar wheel to the front axle. Although you don't agree with that, I think that is the common way. The picture in my manuel also used the front axle and is not do clear about the rear measurement. But I agree with you that one should measure along the rear wheel and also that load and road camber matter.
@@jharinghHello. Just to clarify. The measurement for toe in is different for the 2wd vs single wheel drive. 3-8 for 2wd and 8-12 for 1wd..mine is 2wd hence 3-8.mm. what matters is the angle of the SC wheel in relation to the front to rear parallel (in theory as you say) if that 3-8 mm were applied to a location somewhere up toward the front axle as David demonstrated, Think you would find the actual toe in at the SC wheel would be tiny. So, to answer your question. Yes all my measurement are at the SC wheel. I leave the bar in place keeping the front and rear wheels in line and parallel..My measurements are then quite simple inside of bar to inside SC tyre wall at rear, compared to inside of bar to a point forward and inside on the SC tyre wall at front. As a check after doing this, you can mount the bar on the SC wheel as David does. Then, go forward and measure the difference at front axle location. I am sure you will find it is in the order of 38+mm. My point is, the instructional video and the user manual are not correct. My bike tracks perfectly and I have no adverse tyre wear..Lean out is very close to 1 degree using an electric inclinometer attached to front and rear brake discs. All on level ground. Thanks so much for taking the time to talk this through. It was a big mystery to me and many others. I just sought to take away the mystery around this. Simplifying it. Cheers
