Hello, my name is Sadel. I graduated from WyoTech in 2003 and from there went on to work for BMW for about a decade. After that I spent some time in the independent shop field before deciding to open up Dtech Engineering in 2014. Along the way I noticed that I was getting a lot of trouble cars that were the hard to fix type. And so with that, I decided to start filming some of these crazy diags. My hopes with it is to help show and display diagnostic techniques and mindset thinking process along with tool usage of how to accurately diagnose automotive repairs. I hope to provide some good info along the way and hopefully teach some positive things as well. Thank you for checking out the channel and I hope you enjoy!
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If you used the XP400 on a pc it gives you more options like voltage change if you drop voltage to read eeprom you probably would be able to read in circuit because your problem might be feedback from board trying to start with higher voltage and your getting data crash.
You are correct on the pc giving you a little more option with the voltage change, and yes if you wake up something on the board it can prevent a read. Although on the pc I have yet to find out or find if it can set up a verification read and write option settings. Without that on the pc version I've become hesitant on using it for reads because it corrupted a read for me one time and I lost data, so that was it for me with the pc version. Thanks for watching
most likely not, I at least have not experienced that even when I have had cars with bad turbos. At that point it would just idle as a naturally aspirated engine
Great video still stuck getting code that my transmission temperature sensor not working but everytime I search for the part the part it doesn’t look nothing like the temperature sensor wondering if I can even replace the transmission temperature sensor
the temperature sensor on this transmission is incorporated into the solenoid harness inside the transmission. Check out part 2 of this series, at the 12 minute mark I show and describe the components on the valve body and harness including the temperature sensor. You would need to get a solenoid harness. Hope this helps.
Excellent video Sadel! This is another good way to test injector problems! Those adapter work pretty good, I use them a lot because we have a lot of customers complaining about noises! The pressure transducer is made by you or a brand name? Thanks a lot, Sadel and always learning from you brother!
The length of the measuring tube (as well as the distance of the injector and its proximity to the pressure transducer) affects in one way or another the accuracy of the measurements...
Not in a sealed, fluid filled, pressurized system. Test hose fills up and becomes part of the constant pressure, any changes anywhere in the system are equal across all of it. Hence why all the injector pressure drops are the same..... if it weren't true, then the injector furthest away from the fuel feed line of the rail would show a difference. That's why even on multibank engines they don't have independent fuel rails per bank with separate fuel feeds... They have rails on each bank but tie them in together and only feed on one side with one feed. Pressure is constant. If not the injector fuel flow and pressure drop from one end of an 8 cylinder one piece fuel rail system would look different from an injector on the totally opposite end 8 injectors away. This isn't like an incylinder measurement adding volume and lowering the compression on the cylinder you are in.
@@DTEAuto Another thank you for your contribution Sadel. Regarding the discussed matter it may be a yes and no . In a confined system according to Pascal's law the actual pressure drop/change will be the same within this system and shown as such by the pressure sensor. The chassis ear signal strength however will be affected by its external positioning/ location. On a side note: The injector pintle opening/hump can be found on the voltage trace as well. You would have to zoom in extremely on the portion where the injector is grounded. As the current flow rises the "ground voltage" rises as well and will show the same /shape/disruption during pintle movement as the current trace does. The current trace will be much cleaner though.
This is not a delay of pressure drop. If you use an amp clamp you will notice the point when the injector pintle opens. That is the point when the rail pressure begins to decrease.
it's a delay of fuel pressure drop from when the fuel injector was electrically "turned" on. Just like the delay of pintle movement on the closing side, it's after the point of electrically "turning" off the injector. Guess what would be delayed also....??? the pintle movement on the begging side as well, during the "turn on" point electrically. An amp clam will show the same thing correlating with the voltage trace. Amperage activity will occur at the same time the voltage shows the "turn on" point, the amp clamp doesn't "move" when the pintle moves, it moves as soon as voltage is commanded and the pintle moves delayed from that point and is seen in the voltage trace, amperage trace, and now noise trace to be delayed and it matches the fuel pressure drop being delayed from the turn on point. Fuel pressure can only drop from a leak, and that occurs from the pintle movement per injector, which again is displayed to be delayed as shown in the demonstration.
The rail is already full his transducer was at the end that’s why he was showing when the injector turned off and on. His synch was right on the injector itself and lined up perfectly that’s how you know it’s not the rail that’s showing.
Sadel knows this is not abnormal pressure drop delay. Sadel knows pintle opening can be seen in a current waveform. In this video he is simply demonstrating pintle opening and closing can also be seen using these other methods.
Do you have iVA by ATS ? The price of this device is outrageous. But it can help 100% pinpoint the exact problem with bearings in differentials,center differentials, transfer cases and out of balance driveshaft and prop-shafts/u-joint problems, prop-shaft bearing problems. It's really important on newer luxury cars. I mean the 4Matic, Quattro and xDrive system. Most of these assemblies are serviceable. They have bearing , bushing and seals kit. But one needs to be sure which of the components is the culprit before taking it out of the vehicle and then servicing it. I've had a colleague replace the rear diff of BMW X5, but the real culprit was the transfer case. But THE BIGGER problem was that the junkyard rear diff was also vibrating , so after replacing the number one culprit - the transfer case , he needed to reinstall the old rear diff. It was quite a work! But he doesn't have iVA from ATS.
Yes, I am aware of that kit and the pico NVH kit. Both as you said are outrageously priced. With these Microphone clamps and the scope it will give you 100% accurate noise detection results at a fraction of the price. Vibration is a whole nother story. That's a crazy situation your colleague had
my 2006 bmw e87 120d wont start ewery time i replace battery or disconnect it. its the same with ibs wire conneced or disconnected. so a guy with diagnostic must set something to make car working again. as i remember its always something with CAS module problem. and maybe something else too. why is this happening ? and what is cheappest diagnostic tool i can buy ,to doo it myself next time ?
I had the same issue. For ( quick fix or emergency ) disconnect the negative terminal from the battery (Very Important) before you proceed the next step., then short the circuit from the front hood. There is a positive terminal that connect to the battery. used a wire clip connect to positive and touch the engine block for few second. This should reset all electronic. After that remove the wire clip. Reconnect the battery negative terminal. Voila your car should start. Remember this is a temporally fixed. The underlining issue is still there. Once you stop the engine. You will have the same issue. To rectify the issue, replace with a new same model factory battery. ie: Model H8 AGM . And register the battery and Reset the CAS counter for ELV and Cas. This should fixed the issue. For the Battery Registration and CAS counter reset. I was using the software tool 32. for window 7. But is a easy software android apps. MHD N54 download apps on your android phone. used the MHD bluetooth adaptor or K+DCAN car diagnostic tool cable OBD usb cable. The MHD N54 is very easy to used provided you are replacing the same battery. Otherwise, if you have a different battery, then it require coding the new battery. Hope this help! Good Luck!
You are definitely correct on simply taking that approach. My main thing for putting this out was to show people that the ability to capture noise visually on a scope is possible and to try and inspire one's imagination of what else they can test with this method. To open people's minds and train of thought. Plus, the added bonus of using a scope is the ability of simultaneous measurement, meaning multiple noises captured at one time, one test. Not having to individually check each wheel (or whatever else you are testing) or unlike the chassis ear headphone unit, you have to hope you are on the correct channel the very moment a noise occurs and not miss it. With this, you set up as many chassis ears you need and start recording with the scope and drive not worrying about picking a certain channel. Hope this makes a little more sense as to why I made a quicky displaying this method.
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