You really need to lock the engine down to your bench. If the engine is free to move around, it will effect your reading. Also make sure your engine is parallel to the gauge. A few degrees off square to the gauge will make a difference in your readings.
Very true, so I have a dial indicator holder I use on 2 strokes and if I remove the head I can center it over the lifter and lock it down with one of the head bolts. Testing that way I get Intake .2525 and exhaust .254. I did complete cam profile measurements on my new 206 that way as well.
I’m new to kart racing and still unsure on what engine I wanna start with…LO206 is what I been looking into getting but done know much on what upgrades are offered
Hey Brennen it's good to hear you've started karting. The LO206 is a box stock class and no modifications of any kind are allowed. Engine comes with just a carb and all you need to get is the accessories like exhaust, engine mount, clutch ect.
Thank you for the set list, im pretty new to karting. Is the vertical play with the spacers normal? Do you crank it down and does that affect alignment? Ive been having issues with alignment on the stand versus on the ground.
Hi Geoff, interested in the helicoil and stud setup you use for the exhaust flange. Here in New Zealand, most people run cap head bolts with lockwire. Look forward to the dyno results!
@@robbinsracing801 Thank you, what's the part number for the 30 degree cutter? The Briggs kit they sell only has a 45 degree, I want the 30 degree cutter too, just don't know the part number.
Good video, but. Itend to find this a bit overrated and close to impossible to get right, you need to have everything 100% right. If your allignment is off you get a false result, if your frame is just slightly bent (and it very likely could be), if you are not 100% level between the 4 corners it will be off. I tend to just focus on getting the front/rear weight in the ball park and solve the rest in the setup.
Is that O2 sensor too close to the end of the exhaust? From what I have read it needs to be at a specific angle much closer to the exhaust port. I have wanted to do this for my son. I am excited to see how it works out
Its a self heating sensor so it doesn't need to be near the exhaust port. Only thing I have heard is that negative pressure could suck air into the silencer and lean out the readings. Just going to have to see how it goes.
@@michaelmurphy6687 All 3 although in the past I set the idle mixture screw to 1.25 turns out and forgot about it. After I get this thing broken in I plan to start with carb setup first. We'll do a dyno pull for each of the needle clip settings and then as many float settings until the AFR is just right. We can also see how the Idle speed screw changes AFR too.
We also run hard tires with our WF engine and I strugle for rear grip. Was that a 1030 axel when you cut it down? we tend to run a total with of around 1390.
I just did my sweep for my margay k3 the first time yesterday. I had a like 10 mm difference of one side to the other. I made it so the sweep was even but the toe was off then. What is more important, what the laser alinement says is the toe or do I need to fix the sweep
IMO toe is more important. When I set the front end alignment I do it just like my older front end alignment vid, without checking the sweep. Full disclosure in the 15 years we have been karting I have never set the sweep, I received a request to show how to measure sweep which is why I created the this vid.
Kart came with them stock, unless the shop I purchased it from drilled them. But I didn't drill them out. I do have a bolt holder for this purpose but every time I've tried using it my drill bit breaks.
I saw a little blood I assume that was from the safety wire....If you need a blood test like cholesterol or A1C Keep it close by when your safety wire and stuff. Lol. Love your vids!
Nice video. Very informative. Can you tell me who makes your rear wheel hub. I have the same ones & one needs replacement just not sure who makes them or where to find a replacement. Thank you!
Might have Cam lobe wear on that motor hows the oil been looking & do you have a Magnet on drain plug & sence this is a spec motor all cams by Briggs should be the same tallerances
I just wanted to point something out I noticed between the before and after Dyno Pulls when I watched the video back. You'll notice I have to open the relief valve a full half turn further in the first test vs the post test before it hit the limiter. Pressure in the system on the first pull was 1923 PSI and on the second pull it was 2382 PSI.
I love the way you present your information. Question about valvesprings, how often do they need to be replaced? And how do you know when the valves need to be replaced?
So the best thing you can do for the head is make sure after every session when you shut the engine down you pull the recoil starter until it gets tight. That will close the valves and help to keep the seal tight and prevent warping. If it were my engine I would only replace the values if I couldn't get them to seal, springs are cheap so might as well swap them out end of season just because.
@@robbinsracing801 i would like too see a Dyno pull showing these results. Last i checked on a combustion chamber motor you want as much Fuel & Air into cylinder & use maximum lift on cam lobe to open intake valve as far as you can too get max Combustion with out binding lifter & push rod & rocker arm when cam lobe is at max lift 😁 So why would you want less fuel & air into cylinder 🤔
The engine in the vid still shows close to 15% but it’s all leaking from the bottom, there ‘s no longer air pouring out the intake. I’d say if you test with the head on 15% max and if you removed the head and had a plate to mount it too you would want 0% loss. For me it’s just a way to identify leaking valves that need service.
Have you ever used a block off plate on the head to isolate the valves when you test for leakage on the LO206? If so, can you recommend a place that sells them? Keep up the good work!
What did you set the lash at after maintenance im pretty sure the intake valve was 90% of the problem on HP these motors only have one cylinder & you cant have any valve leakage or your dead in the water 🥴
