I used your tool and I’ve got to say thank you a million times! Some helpful advice to anyone looking to do this would be to buy new hardware( the metal sleeves going in between the bushings) because the odds are they’re rusted very badly. I was able to pop off all but one of my bushings. For that one I had to use an angle grinder to cut through, but that meant cutting through the rubber to get to the metal sleeve.
I have the exact same car and live in florida . Mine just turned 66,000 original ml and it does like attention at the Doctor man AKA Maitland auto imports here in orlando .If not for them I'd a probable sold the thing .. I do enjoy the car and for the most part still all original .. The AC is fickel in these things though ..
Was the driveshaft original to the truck or was it made to fit the 8.8 rear differential everything I've seen says the transmission spline count is different between the two Ranger says 28 and F150 says 30/31 whatever that means I bought a 5 speed manual transmission from a 1995 F150 and I'm trying to do this swap in my 1988 Ranger my trucks a regular cab short box any help would be appreciated.
Using those tin snips is a bad idea because it can cause the speaker basket to warp and flex and end results are a distorted speaker……ask me how I know
A question if you have time, I have switches installed (a cluster of 3) similar to yours. One switch was turned on and then all of a sudden the switch would not click off. It is as if the switch had gotten stuck. The light couldn’t be turned off haha so I have disconnected it but would you have an idea of what has happened/how to fix it? Do I just need to replace the switch mechanism itself? Could it have been faulty?
Are those speakers "Made in China"? I cant seem to find that info. Ive seen a set of Kickers 2.75" speakers (made in china), which makes me want to search for other options if possible.
I have been looking for this video. Got to attempt to do this. I need replace the speedometer part. It is clicking and the needle is going crazy! Can’t tell what speed I am running. Have replaced everything up to the speedometer cluster part. That is all that is left that could be causing this.
I think that leftover seal is for the auxiliary water pump that is attached to the heater valve assembly. It serves to circulate water from the block into the heater core when the car is not running but the key is on. Like when you're grabbing donuts in the middle of winter and you don't want to freeze. :)
We did not really get AC here in England on 240s. It wasn’t really an option. But some had it from factory. I’ve managed to get an entire setup off a UK car that did have AC. I’ve done my blower fan countless times over the years and always managed to do it without removing the dash (it comes out once the centre console is removed). I’m thinking now though I’m Going to have to remove the dash in order to install my AC? This is a RHD uk car.
There’s a guy on EBay that makes the bolts, washers, telescopic sleeves etc. Also provides the exact product number for the matching POLYURETHANE bushings. Ordered them myself and I’m very pleased. Also used a floor Jack to slightly lift the body up to break the old bushings free BUT most of mine were rotted off and the fronts are totally rotted out into the radiator support.
Hello I’m looking at a 5.0 swap on my 94 I have a few questions 1 what year truck do you have 2 what exhaust manifolds did you use 3 is my train of thought correct I have a 5.0 explorer motor m5r2 97 and up 4.2 f150 use stock 89 ranger clutch master cylinder for the 7/8 bore stock mid 90s f150 flywheel and starter and clutch 97 and up master cylinder from the f150 was going to go to ricks rangers for adapter plates and use 4.0 motor mounts is that about right would be happy for feed back thank you
Thank you for showing the hole you cut for the transmission. I also have an M5R2 from an earlier F150 and now I know what it will look like with the early model shifter location. I was contemplating getting an M5R2 from a newer Ford which places the top shift cover in the stock Ranger location, but yours looks just fine!
Friend, I have a Volvo 740 gle from 1988, petrol and gas, it costs a lot to get it. I give the key several times and it won't start. I'm getting very sad, because it was a childhood dream to buy a 740. Please help me!
Recently my 1990's AC stopped kicking on, I know the compressor is good it was replaced not too long ago. The power windows are working which share the same fuse, so I think the fuse is fine, now I'm thinking I might have to replace the AC control relay. Does that sound like a logical next step? Seems like it's underneath the center console near the bottom from the diagrams I've got.
Hey man, I don’t think mines slipping quite as bad (yet), however, I am getting an annoying squeak/chirp on startup and shut down on my ‘92 245. I’ve changed out all the belts, played with tension, etc. and the noises persist. Is this a semi-common issue, and does it sound like my harmonic balancer is starting fail? Thanks!
I don't know where you're from but, those bushings looked mint compared to the ones I'll be replacing on my 1994 project truck soon. Nearly 30 years of daily driving in the Salt belt has really done a number on them lol! The core support bushings and hardware on my truck aren't even there anymore, I can push down on the hood and the back of the cab lifts up because of how bad the rear cab mounts themselves are! I'll be replacing those too with new parts fabricated from 1/8" steel plate rather than oem style stamped sheet metal replacements.
